A manual of costume as illustrated by monumental brasses

A MANUAL OF COSTUME
AS ILLUSTRATED BY
MONUMENTAL BRASSES

I

A MANUAL OF COSTUME
AS ILLUSTRATED BY
MONUMENTAL BRASSES
BY HERBERT DRUITT

WITH no ILLUSTRATIONS

ALEXANDER MORING LTD THE DE
LA MORE PRESS 32 GEORGE STREET
HANOVER SQUARE LONDON W 1906

" And Dckkcr, in his " Gull's Horn Book," published in 1 609, contrasting the fashions
" of his day with the simplicity of the old times (though where he found simplicity in
"any later than the Deluge I am not aware), says : — 'There was then neither the
"Spanish slop nor the skipper's galligaskins; the Danish sleeving, sagging down
"like a Welsh wallet ; the Italian's close strosser, nor the French standing collar;
"your treble, quadruple Dzedalion rufTs ; nor your stiff-necked rabatos, that have
" more arches for pride to row under than can stand under five London bridges,
" durst not then set themselves out in print, for the patent for starch could by no
" means be signed. Fashion then was counted a disease, and horses died of it.'
"The disease is a very old one, and Dekker would have been puzzled, I fancy, to
"point out an age in which it was not deplored as epidemic." — J. R. Planche,
A General History of Costume in Europe, 1879, p. 230.

PREFACE

The aim of this book is to give, as far as possible, a
straight-forward account of the costume to be found
represented on that large class of sepulchral memorials
known as Monumental Brasses. The student of Costume,
to whom this volume is addressed, has before him the
task of clothing one of an earlier age than his own " in his
habit as he lived." If his period be the first quarter of the
nineteenth century he collects and compares the fascinating
copper-plate engravings of that time ; if the seventeenth
century claims his study, he consults the portraits of
Van Dyck, Kneller, and Lely; but if his attention be turned
to the costume of the fourteenth or fifteenth century, he
finds his examples less easy of access, and mainly to be
sought in illuminated manuscripts and in sepulchral
effigies. Of the latter, in England, a large number con-
sists of memorials in brass. Of these he must collect
examples, either by means of heel-ball rubbings or of
photography. By these methods he will be able to show
the various styles of armour, the vestments of the clergy,
the dress of the merchant, the fashions of the ladies, so
that his collection will form a valuable companion to the
study of English History.

In dealing with such a subject as Costume, the enormous
scope of the study renders necessary a strict adherence to
stated Hmits, and a plain statement of those limits. The
present volume treats of Costume,' so far as it appears on
EngHsh Monumental Brasses, including an introductory
chapter dealing generally with this class of memorial.
The author has not commented upon the beauty or

' Two classes of costume, if such they may be considered, have been
omitted : — the swaddling clothes of infants with the class known as
" Chrysom Brasses," and the class represented by " Shroud Brasses."

VI.

PREFACE

ugliness of English fashion, holding that, at the most, such
treatment conveys but the expression of individual taste,
and that it is futile to criticize adversely a fifteenth-century
head-dress, merely because it may not be supported by the
sanction of a nineteenth-century mode. Dresses which
appear to us to be graceful, or the reverse, occur in every
age. The light which they throw on the manners of their
period constitutes their importance, and justifies an in-
telligent study of their origin, use, and development.

The adequate acknowledgment of an author's indebted-
ness to authorities, in a work of this kind, presents many
difficulties. It was intended that a Bibliography should
have been printed at the end of this book,' which would
have shown the range of these obligations ; but it was
found to be impossible to include this, as it would have
increased unduly the size of the book. This bibliography
will be issued, with some additions, in a separate form at
a later date, when it is hoped that it will prove of service
to the student. But it must be stated here that the
author's chief indebtedness is to the Rev. Herbert Haines'
Manual of Monumental Brasses, now, unfortunately, out of
print, and comparatively costly, but which for more than
forty years has been and still remains the standard work
on the subject.

Many of the illustrations are from photographs, taken
directly, of the brasses themselves. The author's grateful
acknowledgments are due to Mr. E. M. Beloe, junr., for
his photographs of the Elsing brass ; to Mr. W. H. H.
Rogers, F.S.A., for his kindness in allowing the use of
some thirty blocks, made from his own carefully prepared
rubbings ; and to Mr. H. K. St. J. Sanderson for the use
of his block of the brass at Cople.

The author thankfully records his indebtedness to many

I This will explain the reference on p. 145, and the absence of the list
of books there mentioned. In the Index of Persons the names of authors
cited will be found printed in italics. The author has endeavoured by
means of footnotes to show the sources of statements in the text.

PREFACE

vii.

of the clergy and to others, who have given him informa-
tion and assistance, more especially to 'the Rev. Canon
C. H. Mayo, Professor E. C. Clark, LL.D., F.S.A.,
and to Messrs. Mill Stephenson, F.S.A., and Albert
Hartshorne, F.S.A.

That errors and many imperfections must exist in his
work the author is well aware. He will be grateful to any
one who, detecting such, will bring them to his notice.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Preface - v.

Contents - -- -- -- -- - ix.

Illustrations - - - - - - - - - xv.

Introduction. — Of Monumental Brasses

Rise of this branch of archaeology — its literature — its im-
portance— Haines' classification of monumental effigies —
Incised slabs — Limoges enamels — inlaying slabs with colour
and metals — inlaying of brasses — advantage of use of brass for
sepulchral monuments — material used — how made and en-
graved— brass inlaid in marble slab — cost of brasses — artists
and engravers — devices and signatures — thirteenth century
brasses — development of brasses following that of architecture
— arrangement in periods with their characteristics — four-
teenth century — fifteenth century — sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries — rarity of brasses in eighteenth century — modern
brasses — distribution of brasses — their size — some account of
the treatment to which they have been subjected from the
sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries — modern recoveries,
practices, restorations — palimpsest brasses — three classes de-
scribed, with examples — palimpsest at Burwell described —
Flemish brasses — list of those in England of fourteenth century
— some fine Continental examples — Flemish palimpsests —
brass of Abbot Delamere described — effigy of abbot, British
Museum — the Lynn brasses — those at North Mimms, Wensley,
and Elsing — characteristics of fourteenth century Flemish
brasses — fifteenth and sixteenth century Flemish brasses —
foreign brasses in London museums — brasses showing French
influence — English brass of Bishop Hallum at Constance

Costume divided into four main groups — notes on royal
brasses i

Chapter I. — Of Ecclesiastical Costume on Brasses

Origin of vestments — early examples on brasses — brasses of
cardinals — division into mass and processional vestments —
Mass Vestments : i. Amice; 2. Alb ; 3. Stole; 4. Maniple ;
5. Chasuble — examples of priests in mass vestments, and of

b

CONTENTS

r

demi-figures similarly vested— some variant brasses combining
mass and processional vestments — Episcopal Vestments {pontifi-
calia): I. Dalmatic; 2. Tunicle ; 3. Buskins or Stockings;
4. Sandals; 5. Gloves; 6. Ring; 7. Mitre; 8. Pastoral Staff
or Crozier — Archiepiscopal Insignia: i. Cross Staff; 2. Pall

A list of brasses of archbishops and bishops in pontificals —
some other brass memorials of bishops — the ornamentation of
mass vestments, and their characteristics on brasses

Processional or Choral Vestments: Cassock, Subtunica,
Surplice, Almuce, Cope— examples showing hood— examples
showing cope embroidered throughout — decoration of the
cope— its morse— choral cope {cappa «/^-rt)— examples-
Mantle of the Garter — brasses of Canons of Windsor wearmg
it examples of priests in processional vestments — examples

lacking the cope .

Brasses of the Monastic Orders (male)— abbots in pontificals
—in monastic habit— examples of Benedictine habit— brass of
an Augustinian canon— Monastic Orders (female)— two brasses
of abbesses — examples of vowesses and nuns

A Note on the Chalice Brass— with or without efiigy—
examples of chalices with or without wafer— examples showing
chalice held by effigies in mass vestments and by others m pro-
cessional vestments and academicals— ornamentation of the

^'^Clerical habit— examples showing cassock, tippet, and hood
—others showing cassock and scarf-like tippet _

Post-Reformation Ecclesiastics— their vestment regulations
—Rochet, Chimere, Scarf or Tippet-gown— ///m quadratus
—brasses of Bishops Geste and Robinson, and of Archbishop
Harsnett— three instances of mitre brasses— some other epis-
copal brasses— examples of clergy in clerical costume -

Chapter II —Of Academical Costume on Brasses

Difficulty of subject— some authorities— ecclesiastical origin
of universities and of their costume-its regulation-Articles
of dress: l. The Under or Body Garment; 2. Cassock;
. Gown : a. cappa clausa; b. gown with two slits, or sleeveless

Iberdun talare/c. sleeved tabard ; ^-l^-^^^ /^kdHap
medias tibias ; 4. Tippet; 5- Hood; 6. P.leus : skull-cap,
b Pointed— Order of precedence of faculties
■ Examples in academicals and other costume-Sacr^ Theo-
loei^ Professor, Doctor of Divinity-Decretorum or Juris
Cfnonici Docto'r-Legum, or Juris Ciyilis Doctor-Utriusque
Juris Doctor-Medicine Doctor-Licentiati (m decretis)-
Sacre Theologie Baccalaureus-Artium Magister (Haines

CONTENTS

xi.

PAGE

M.A. I. and M.A. II.) — Sacrae Theologiae Scholaris — Juris
Canonici or In Decretis Baccalaureus — Juris Civilis or Legum
Baccalaureus — Utriusque Juris Baccalaureus — Physics Bacca-
laureus— Artium Baccalaureus — Student of Civil Law —
Undergraduate — Schoolboys — Note: Doctor of Music - 119

Chapter III. — Of Military Costume on Brasses

Surcoat Period — examples — mail — hawberk — coif de mailles
— chausses — genouillieres or poleyns — prick spurs — hauketon
— surcoat — ailettes — shield — sword — brasses of Sir John
D'Aubernoun — Sir Robert de Trumpington (with tilting
helm) — Sir Robert de Bures — Sir Robert de Setvans — two
half-effigies — matrices of the Surcoat Period

Transitional Period — brasses at Pebmarsh and Gorleston —
brassarts (rerebraces and vambraces) — coutes or coudieres —
roundels — jambs or jambarts — sollerets

Mixed Mail and Plate Period, called Cyclas Period —
examples — cyclas — camail — brasses of Sir John de Creke, Sir
John D'Aubernoun II., Sir John de Northwode

Transitional Period — brasses of Sir Hugh Hastings, Sir John
de Wantyng, and Sir John GifFard described

Camail Period — hawberk — chausses — camail — bascinet —
rerebraces — vambraces — coutes — epaulieres — cuisses — genou-
illieres— jambs — sollerets — rowell spurs — gauntlets — jupon —
bawdric — sword — basilard or misericorde — tilting helm —
examples

Transitional Period — breastplate or cuirass — skirt of taces
— examples

Complete Plate Period (Lancastrian) — bascinet — gorget or
standard — breastplate — backplate — skirt of taces — epaulieres
— brassarts — coutes — roundels — palettes — gauntlets — cuisses
— jambs — genouillieres — sollerets — rowell spurs — sword —
misericorde — tuilles — heraldic tabards (brasses of heralds) —
examples

Yorkist Period — demi-placcates — pauldrons — gardes de bras
— hausse-col or collar of mail — tuilles — tuillettes — examples
showing lance-rest — gussets of mail — shell-backed gauntlets —
salade — mentoni^re — examples of the Yorkshire school show-
ing it — examples of heraldic tabards — early examples of period
—examples of the London school — later examples — examples
with short mail-skirt showing signs of transition — examples of
the Norwich school

Early Tudor or Mail Skirt Period — its characteristics — pike
guards— cuirass — its tapul — lamboys or bases — tuilles — skirt
or petticoat of mail — sabbatons — other characteristics — ex-
amples— examples showing heraldic tabards

xii.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Transitional Period — mail skirt worn with tassets — examples

Tasset Period — characteristics — tassets taking the place of
taces — a few examples in heraldic tabards — examples of the
period — alterations under the Stuarts — examples

Knights of the Garter — examples on brasses — matrices —
restored example — shields within Garter

Livery Collars on Military Brasses — Collars of SS. and of
Suns and Roses — some authorities — John H. Mayo quoted —
examples showing Collar of SS. — examples showing Collar of
Suns and Roses — some other examples

Brasses of Serjeants at Arms — Bishop Wyvill's brass — ^his
champion holding a croc — representations of the Resurrection
showing halberds and other weapons - - - - H3

Chapter IV. — Of Civilian* Costume on Brasses

Of fourteenth century — examples — cote hardie, long and
short — its liripipia — chaperon — other examples — examples of
latter part of fourteenth century — anelace — mantle — examples
with mantle — others without mantle — examples in long loose
tunic — Reign of Henry IV. — bag-sleeved gown — examples —
brass of a hunter — middle of fifteenth century — houppelande
fur-lined tunic — examples — transitional period — latter part of
fifteenth century — cassock-like gown — hood or bourrelet— its
origin and shape — examples — Reign of Henry VII. — fur-lined
open gown — gypciere and rosary — examples — change, f. 1 520
the false-sleeved gown — examples — Reign of Queen Eliza-
beth characteristics — gown with false sleeves — short cloak —

examples in long gown — examples in short cloak — Crown
keepers— Yeomen of the Guard— Reign of Charles I.— ex-
amples in false-sleeved gown— examples in short cloak —
eighteenth century vbrass of Benjamin Greenwood— civic
mantle — examples from 1432 to 1 574 - - - -195

Chapter V. — Of Legal Costume on Brasses

Its origin— r/i^? Order of the Coif, by Alexander Pulling, S.L.
Attornati et apprenticii ad /^^m— Serjeants-at-law— Judges-
Coif — Serjeants' long robe— tabard — illummations temp.
Henry VI.— costume of Judges— long robe— girdle— cape-
hood— coif— Barons of the Exchequer— Masters m Chancery
—examples of brasses of Judges— of Serjeants-at-law— of
Barons of the Exchequer— of Masters in Chancery— ot
Barristers (with some inscriptions)— of Students— of other
legal functionaries— of Notaries (with some inscriptions) - 219

I The term Ci-vilian is here used in a broad sense, not in its academical significance.

CONTENTS

xiii.

Page

Chapter VI. — Of Female Costume on Brasses

Brass of Margarete de Camoys, r. 1310, described — cote-
hardie — kirtle — wimple — covrechef — brass of Lady Joan de
Cobham, c. 1320 — two other brasses — examples of the middle
of the fourteenth century described — mantle — liripipes of
cote-hardie — sideless cote-hardie — tunic or cote — head-dress:
(i) veiled; (2) zig-zag, nebule, reticulated — examples ar-
ranged according to coiffure — in veil head-dress — costume of
widows with examples — examples showing the hair plaited at
the sides and bound with a fillet — showing the zig-zag,
nebule, and reticulated head-dresses — examples, c. 1400, of
the long close-sleeved gown — early form of crespine head-
dress— examples — first part of fifteenth century — kirtle — side-
less cote-hardie — mantle — houppelande — bag-sleeved gown

crespine head-dress — its early form — examples with kirtle and
mantle — examples with bag-sleeved gown — square cauls of
crespine head-dress — examples — horned, lunar, mitre or heart-
shaped head-dress (hennin) — examples showing it worn with
kirtle and mantle — examples of the surplice-sleeved gown or
houppelande — examples of the girded bag-sleeved gown worn

with the horned head-dress — and with the veil head-dress

costume of widows — barbe — examples from 1405 to 1501

fur-lined gown, c. 1460, worn over kirtle — horned head-dress
more acutely pointed — examples of it worn (i.) with kirtle and
mantle, (ii.) with other costume — mitre-shaped head-dress of
Jane Keriell — decorated cauls, surmounted by coronets, worn
by Joice, Lady Tiptoft, and by Isabel, Countess of Essex-
Transition from horned to butterfly head-dress— examples-
later form of hennin— steeple and butterfly head-dresses

examples wearing butterfly head-dress— curious treatment on
Norfolk brasses— modified form— examples— Reign of Henry
"^^I-— Pedimental head-dress— its cornet and frontlet— gown
of the period described— its girdle— pomanders— examples
showing veil head-dress— examples showing pedimental head-
dress and in some cases heraldic mantle— change in the gown
sleeves, f.l 1 525— partlet— lappets of pedimental head-dress
turned up— examples— some provincial examples in Norfolk,
bufFolk, and Essex— Reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and the first
part of thatof Elizabeth— Paris Head or French Hood— open
gown with embroidered petticoat— a few instances of heraldic
mantles— one of heraldic tabard— list of some examples of the
period— changes in the latter part of the reign of Elizabeth—
shadoe or bongrace— hood (calash)— farthingale— large ruff
with examples-hats-examples of the period -Reign of
Charles I.— falling lace collars— virago sleeves, etc.— examples
—two later examples, at Great Chart, c. 1 680, and at St. Mary

XIV.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Cray, 1747 — widows in the sixteenth century — examples —
hair worn long by young unmarried ladies — examples —
maiden garlands — examples of married ladies with long hair
— some examples of peculiar head-dresses

A Note on the Effigies of Children, with examples - - 237

Appendices

A. Extract from Dugdale's Jnttquities of Warwickshire,
quoting the contract for the tomb of Richard Beauchamp,
Earl of Warwick -------- 301

B. Extract from Weever's Ancient Funerall Monuments,
163 1, giving some account of the spoliation to which they
have been subjected, and quoting the Proclamation of Queen
Elizabeth against breaking or defacing of Monuments - - 306

C. Note on vestments showing personal devices, as illus-
trated by the Exhibition of the Burlington Fine Arts Club,
1905 --------- - 311

Addenda et Corrigenda - - - - - - "3^3

Indices

Of Persons - - - - - - - - - 3^9

Of Places - 349

Of Costume- -------- 366

General - -- -- -- -- 377

ILLUSTRATIONS

Those marked * lent by W. H. H. Rogers, Esq., F.S.A.

PAGE

Sir John D'Aubernoun, 1277 {seep. 145) ; Sir John D'Aubernoun,

1327 {see p. 1 5 2), Stoke D'Abernon, Surrey {photogravure) Frontispiece

Incised Cross Slab, New Romney, Kent {from a photograph) . 3

Cross Brass, Thomas Chichele and wife Agnes, 1400, Higham

Ferrers, Northants : i., whole brass ; \\.^d.&fx\\.{from photographs) 22

Bracket Brass, John Strete, 1405, Upper Hardres, Kent, see

pp. 104, 128 {from a rubbing . . . .22

Chrysom Brass, Elyn, daughter of Sir Edmond Bray and his wife

Jane, 15 16, Stoke D'Abernon, Surrey {fom a photograph) . 25

Flemish Brass, Simon de Wenslagh, f. 1 360, Wensley, Yorkshire

(from a rubbing) . . . . . .43

Flemish Brass, Abbot Thomas Delamere, f. 1360, St, Alban's

Abbey, Herts. . . . . . .46

Flemish Brass, Thomas de Horton, c. 1360, North Mimms, Herts. 49

Flemish Brass, Andrew Evyngar and wife Ellyn, i 535> -All

Hallows' Barking, London, see pp. 212, 276 «. . '55

p. 55,/or 1536 read 1535.

St. Ethelred, King of the West Saxons, 872, engraved c. 1440,

Wimborne Minster, Dorset, see p. 17 (from a photograph) . 5^

Richard de Hakebourne, <r. 1 3 1 1 , Merton College, Oxford {from a

photograph) . . . . . . • 63

Priest in Mass Vestments (John Seys), 1370, West Hanney,
Berks., mutilated \

Priest in Mass Vestments, c. 1480, Childrey, Berks, (from photo-
graphs) ...... 70

Thomas Cranley, Archbishop of Dublin, 141 7 (Warden), New

College, Oxford ; effigy (from a photograph) . . 79

John Yong, Bishop of Callipolis, 1526 (Warden), New College,

Oxford, mutilated (from a photograph) . . .80

xvi.

ILLUSTRATIONS

T>L PAGE

Thomas de Hop, c. 1320, Kemsing, Kent, see p. 71 ;
John Verieu, 1370, Saltwood, Kent, see p. 71 {from photographs) 82
Note apparels.

Thomas Buttler, 1494, Great Haseley, Oxon. (Jrom a photograph) . 87
Richard Malford, 1403 (Warden), New College, Oxford;

Note length of surplice.

Walter Hyll, 1494 (Warden), New College, Oxford, see p. 138

{from photographs) . . . . . .89

Henry Sever, S.T.P., 1471 (Warden), Merton College, Oxford

{see pp. 126, 128) ; effigy {from a rubbing) . . -93

Robert Hacombleyn, 1528, King's College, Cambridge {from a

photograph) . . . . . . '95

Richard Bewftbreste, Abbot, f. 1510, Dorchester, Oxon. {from a

photograph) . . . . . .96

*Martin Forester, c. 1460, Yeovil, Somerset, on the lectern {from

a rubbing . . . . . . .97

John Frye, S.T.S., 1507, New College, Oxford, see p. 138 ;
Chalice Brass, William Weststow, r. 1520, Little Walsingham,

Norfolk, see p. 100 {from photographs) . . .101

Ecclesiastic, .'1372, in head of cross, Merton College, Oxford

{from a photograph) . . . . • .103

William Geddyng ?, 15 12, Wantage, Berks.;

John Yslyngton, S.T.P., f. 1 520, Cley-next-the-Sea, Norfolk, see

pp. 106, 129, {from photographs) . . . .105

Edmund Geste, Bishop of Salisbury, 1578, Salisbury Cathedral

{from a rubbing) . . . . • • ^ 1 3

William Dye, 1567, Westerham, Kent {from a rubbing) . .116

Thomas Hylle, S.T.P., 1468, New College, Oxford, see p. 128

{from a photograph) . . . • • .121

John Argentein, D.D., M.D., 1507, King's College, Cambridge,

sec pp. 128, 133 ;
Robert Brassie, S.T.P., 1558, King's College, Cambridge, see

pp. 95, 129 {from photographs) . • • .127

William Hautryve, Decretorum Doctor, 1441, New College,

OySox^^ see "p. i^o {from a photograph) . . .129

John Lowthe, Juris Civilis Professor, 1427, New College, Oxford

{from a photograph) . . • • • ' 1 3 ^

ILLUSTRATIONS

xvii.

PAGE

Bryan Roos, Doctor of Lawe, 1529, Childrey, Berks., see p. 131

(Jrom a photograph) . . . . . • 13^

John Bloxham {d. 1387), S.T.B., Warden, and John Whytton,
see p. 104, f. 1420, Merton College, Oxford; effigies on

bracket (from a photograph) . . . . -134 i

John Kyllyngworth, M.A., 1445, Merton College, Oxford;
John Bowke, M.A., 1519, Merton College, Oxford, see pp. 102,

137 {from photographs) . . . . .136

Geoffrey Hargreve, S.T.S., 1447, New College, Oxford (from a

photograph . . . . . . .138

John Palmer, B.A., 1479, New College, Oxford (from a photograph) 141

John, son of Walter Stonor, Esq., 15 12, Wyrardisbury, Bucks.

(from a photograph) . . . . . .142

Sir Roger de Trumpington, 1289, Trumpington, Cambs. (from a

photograph) . . . . . . .145

Sir Hugh Hastings, 1347, Elsing, Norfolk, see pp. 43, 49, 51

The author is indebted for much information concerning this brass to
Mr. Albert Hartshorne, F.S.A., whose account of this monument will
appear in the Archeeologia. The treatment of the Elsing figure resembles
in some respects that of Sir John de Wantyng's brass at Wimbish, and
it is not improbable that they are of French rather than of Flemish
workmanship. Witli regard to the figures in the side shafts, coloured
pigments seem to have been employed in the backgrounds and on the
heraldic jupons. The shields of the Lords Grey de Ruthin, Stafford, and
St. Amand probably contained their respective arms in enamel, which
has long since disappeared.

The following illustrations, with the exception of that of the figure of
Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, are from photographs taken by
Mr. E. M. Beloe, junr.

I. Brass of Sir Hugh Hastings, 1347, Elsing, Norfolk .154

II. King Edward III., from the Hastings Brass . . 154 '

The diapered background of this figure is similar to that of the
opposite figure of the Earl of Lancaster.

III. Ralph, Lord Stafford, from the Hastings Brass . . 154 I

The opposite figure, lost, was that of Edward le Despenser.
P. 155, the arms have disappeared from the shield.

IV. Almeric, Lord St. Amand, from the Hastings Brass . 154

The diapered background of this figure is similar to that of the
opposite figure of Lord Grey de Ruthin.

P. 155, the arms have disappeared from the shield.

XVlll.

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

V. {a) Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, from the
Hastings Brass ;

The opposite figure (lost) was that of Lawrence Hastings, Earl of
Pembroke. An impression exists in the British Museum (Douce
Collection).

{6) Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lancaster, from the Hastings
Brass ;

(f) Roger Grey, Lord Grey de Ruthin, from the Hastings

Brass . . . . . . 1 54

He is represented leaning upon a pole-axe.

The arms {see pp. 155, 316) are on the jupon ; those on the shield
have disappeared.

VL Shield from the Hastings Brass . . . .156

VIL Detail of Canopy, from the Hastings Brass . . .156

Vin. Figure of the Virgin, from the Hastings Brass . .156

*Sir John de Cobham, c. 1367, Cobham, Kent (J. 1407) (from a

rubbing . . . . . . .160

As founder, holding model of church.

On p. 160 it is wrongly stated that there is no misericorde.

*Sir William de Echingham, 1388, Etchingham, Sussex (p. 161),

mutilated {Jrom a rubbing) , . . . .162

* Sir Thomas Cheddar, 1442-3, Cheddar, Somerset (pp. 165, 169) ;

effigy (Jrom a rubbing) . , . . .165

* Sir William Molyns (p. 168) and widow Margery (p. 265), 1425,

Stoke Poges, Bucks, (from a rubbing) . . .167

Thomas Brokill, Esq., and wife Joan?, 1437, Saltwood, Kent

(Jrom a photograpK) . . . . . . 1 69

The wife wears a costume similar to that of Joan Bacon (^eepp. 262-3).

*Sir John Harpedon, 1457, Westminster Abbey see p. 264 {from

a rubbing . . . . . • .169

Thomas Peyton, Esq. (p. 175), and wives Margaret and Margaret

(p. 273), 1484, Isleham, Cambs. . . • • ^7S

♦Matrix of Shroud Effigy of Alianore Mullens (Molyns), c. 1476,

Stoke Poges, Bucks ra/^^/«^) . . • •'^77

Note the tilting-shields (see p. 177 «)•

* Thomas Golde, Esq., 1525, Crewkerne, Somerset, kneeling,

wearing armour or the Early Tudor or Mail-Skirt Period
(Jrom a rubbing) . . • • • .178

ILLUSTRATIONS

xix.

PAGE

20I

* Sir Thomas Brooke, Lord Cobham, and his first wife, Dorothy,

i^2(), CohhAvn, Kent; effigies (from rubbings) . .180

Lady Cobham wears kirtle, sideless cote, mantle, partlet, and pedi-
mental head-dress (see pp, 275-80).

Christopher Septvans, a/ias Harflete, Esq., 1602, Ash-next-Sand-

wlch, Kent, male effigy only, wife, etc., omitted [from a rubbing) 1 84

Sir John Drayton, 141 1, Dorchester, Oxon., wearing Collar of SS.

(from a photograph) . . . • • . 1 90

Nichole de Aumberdene, f. 1350, Taplow, Bucks., effigy in head

oi cross (from a photograph) . . • • • "97

Priest (p. 70) and Frankelein, f. 1370, Shottesbrooke, Berks, (from
a photograph)

*Sir Thomas Brook and wife Joan (p. 269), 1437, Thorncombe,

Devon (from a rubbing . . . . • 200

Richard, son and heir of Robert Manfeld, aged 19, with his sister
Isabel (p. 295) (his brother John, in shroud, omitted), 1455,
Taplow, Bucks, (from a photograph) . . • • 208

Jenkyn Smyth and wife Marion (p. 274), r. 1480, St. Mary,

Bury St. Edmund's, Suffolk (from a photograph) . . 208

William Walrond, Gent., and wife Elizabeth, f.1480, Childrey,

Berks, (from a photograph) . . . • .208

For costume of husband, see pp. 206-8 ; for that of wife, see pp. 268-9.

Geoffrey Kidwelly, Esq., 1483, Little Wittenham, Berks, (from a
photograph) . . . • • ...

* Gyles Penne, Gent., and wife Isabell, 15 19, Yeovil, Somerset,

inscription and two shields omitted (from a rubbing) . .212

The costume of the former corresponds with that described on pp.
210-11; that of the latter to that described on pp. 276-7, of which
examples are given, pp. 278-80.

* William Strachleigh, Esq., with wife Anne and daughter Christian,

i^S^, Etmington, Devon, (from a rubbing) . . .214

For male costume, see pp. 213-14; for female costume, see pp. 284-5.

Walter Septvans, a/ias Harflete, Esq., and wife Jane (p. 293), 1642,

Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent ; effigies only r«M/ff^) . 216

Nichol Rolond (p. 230), and wife Pernel (p. 265), f. 1410,

Cople, Beds, (from a rubbing) . . • .221

Block lent by H. K. St, J. Sanderson, Esq.

210

XX.

ILLUSTRATIONS

Sir William Laken, 1475, Justice of the King's Bench, Bray,

Berks, {frovi a rubbing . . . . .227

*John Brook, Serjeant-at-Law (p. 230), and wife Joan, 1522,

St. Mary Redclift'e, Bristol (from a rubbing) . . .230

The costume of the wife corresponds with that described on pp. 276-7.

Sir John de Creke (pp. 152-3), and wife Alyne (p. 241), c. 1325,

Westley Waterless, Cambs. . . . . .239

*Sir John de la Pole and wife Joan, c. 1370, Chrishall, Essex, the

former in armour of the Camail Period [Jrom a rubbing . 250

Dame Margarete de Cobham, 1375, Cobham, Kent • • 250

*Dame Margarete (p. 251), wife of Sir John de Cobham (p. 160),

1395, Cobham, Kent (Jrom a rubbing) . . . 250

*Sir William Echyngham (p. 169) with wife Joan (p. 259), and

son Sir Thomas, 1444, Etchingham, Sussex {from a rubbing) . 259

Joan, wife of Sir William Echyngham, 1444 ; part of figure show-
ing head-dress {/rom a photograph) . . . .259

John Bacon (p. 207) and wife Joan, 1437, All Hallows' Barking,

London ....... 263

*Joan, Lady de Cobham, 1433, Cobham, Kent; for children see

p. 297 (Jrom a rubbing) . . . . .264

* Sir Reginald Braybrok, and sons Reginald and Robert (p. 299),

1405, Cobham, Kent; armour of the Camail Period (Jrom a
rubbing) . . . . . . .264

*Sir Nicholas Hawberk and son John (p. 299), 1407, Cobham,

Kent ; armour of the Camail Period (Jrom a rubbing) . 264

* Matilda ?, widow of Richard r Clitherow, Esq., c. 1440, Ash-next-

Sandwich, Kent (from a rubbing) . . . .266

*Isabel (nee Scobahull), widow of Sir Thomas Cheddar, f. 1475,
Cheddar, Somerset, in widow's weeds as described p. 264,
three shields omitted (Jrom a rubbing) . . .266

*Jane, wife of Keriell, f. 1460, Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent,

daughter of Roger Cletherowe (from a rubbing) . . 269

In the Connoisseur, July, 1905 (Vol. XII., p. 182), is an illustration
showing a piece of fifteenth-century tapestry "exhibited by Count of
Valence de Don Juan at the Madrid Exhibition, 1892-93." The costume
of the lady therein represented bears much resemblance to that of Jane
Keriell, and reveals the nature of the latter's head-dress :— the horse-shoe
ornament being formed of some costly material surmounting the horned
cauls of the head-dress and falling behind.

ILLUSTRATIONS

XXI.

PAGE

Joice, LadyTiptoft and Powis (p. 269), d. 1466, engraved c. 1470,

Enfield, Middlesex, canopy omitted . . .270

Two Ladies of the Clopton family, 1480, Long Melford, Suffolk

(from photographs) . . . . . '273

* Margaret (nee Nevill), wife of Sir John Brooke, Lord Cobham,

1506, Cobham, Kent, male effigy lost rai5/^/«^) . 278

Thomas Pekham, Esq., and wife Dorothy, 15 12, Wrotham, Kent;
Armour of Mail-Skirt Period, Pedimental Headdress, etc. ;

Reynold Pekham, Esq., and wife Joyce (p. 279), Wrotham, Kent ;
Heraldic talsard worn over armour, Heraldic mantle (Jrom
photographs) . . . ' . . .278

*The Lady Katherine Howard, </. 1452, engraved c. 1535, Stoke-
by-Nayland, Suffolk. Daughter of Sir William de Moleyns of
Stoke Poges, Bucks.; wife of John Howard, created, 1483,
Duke of Norfolk ; mother of Thomas Howard, created,
15 13/4, Duke of Norfolk (Jrom a rubbing) . . . 280

p. 280, line i^-tfor Thomas ri<j(/ John.

* Sir John Basset, and wives Honor (Grenville) and Ann (Dennys),

c. 1540, Atherington, Devon (from a rubbing . . 282

Armour of Mail Skirt Period, see pp. 177 et seq. For female costume,
see pp. 280-2.

* Alice, Lady Norton (ne'e Cobbe), wife of John Cobham, Esq.,

widow of Sir John Norton, 1580, with her two sons (see

p. 215), Newington, Kent (from a rubbing . . . 287

Mary, wife of Anthony Huddleston, Esq., 1581, Great Haseley,

Oxon. (from a photograph) . . . . .287

Aphra, wife of Henry Hawkins, Gent., 1605, Fordwich, Kent

(from a rubbing) . . . . . .290

Thomas Smyth, his wife Mary and daughter Elizabeth, 1610,

New Romney, Kent ; example of hat ;
Elizabeth, wife of Henry Crispe, Gent., 1615, Wrotham, Kent

(from photographs) . . . . . .290

*Joan, wife of Sir Robert Brooke, 161 8, Yoxford, Suffolk (from a

rubbing) . . . . . . .290

*Mary, widow of Edward Brooke, a/ias Cobham, Esq., 1600,
Newington, Kent ; example of widow not wearing widow's
weeds see pp. 293-4, (from a rubbing) . . . 294

xxii. ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

* Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Thomas and Margaret Echyngham,

d. 1452, engraved c. 1480 ;
*Agnes, daughter of Robert Oxenbrigg, 1480, Etchingham, Sussex,

{from rubbings) . . . . . .296

For the date given on p. 295, 1479, read 1480.

Anne, daughter of Henry and Anne Dunch, 1683, Little Wltten-

ham, Berks, (from a photograph) .... 300

1
1

1

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION.

OF MONUMENTAL BRASSES

The study of Monumental Brasses, as a branch of Rise of this
Archaeology, may be said to have arisen in the nineteenth Archeology
century. A collection of impressions, now in the British
Museum, was made towards the close of the previous
century by Craven Ord, Sir John Cullum, and the Rev.
Thomas Cole, at which time also Richard Gough published
his great work on Sepulchral Monuments in Great Britain.
In the year 1819 appeared Cotman's work on the brasses
of Norfolk. About the middle of last century Boutell and
Haines gave system and classification to the subject ; in
1853 Hudson's work on the brasses of Northamptonshire
appeared ; whilst the Messrs. Waller produced a splendid
series of engravings. Some years later the Rev. W, F.
Creeny published the results of his labours on the Con-
tinent. Besides these a large literature exists, in books
devoted to the treatment of separate counties, and in
scattered articles, the work, for the most part, of Arch^o-
logical societies in the Universities and different English
counties : work, doubtless of varying merit, but all to a
greater or less degree adding to our knowledge of the
subject. These papers, moreover, are in many instances
accompanied by illustrations, which gain in absolute
accuracy what they lack in artistic merit by the substitu-
tion of photographic processes for the more costly, though
less trustworthy, line-engraving.

The importance of the subject is sufficiently proved by importance of
the fact that this class of monument affords matter of ^^^^y
mterest ^ to the students of different branches of art and
antiquities. The architect finds the contemporary style
mirrored in the canopies, surviving on many brasses ; the
herald may trace the history and development of arm'orial
bearings through a fine series of shields, though he may

B

2

INTRODUCTION

complain that time has deprived them of their original
tinctures ; the genealogist finds in the frequent dating of
brass inscriptions evidence often denied him by other
monuments ; the student of costume, to whom the present
volume is more particularly addressed, has before him a
set of durable and trustworthy fashion-plates of military
and civil dress throughout four centuries; the ecclesiologist
observes the use of vestments, the form of the chalice and
many other details of importance ; the student of palaeo-
graphy has valuable data of the use of different styles of
lettering; the philologist of the changes in language.
Besides which there are many subjects upon which brasses
give information, such as the manufacture in Europe of
alloys of copper. Wherefore we do not feel guilty of
exaggeration in saying that it would be difficult to over-
estimate the importance, from an historical point of view, of
an intelligent study of the contemporary evidence afforded
by the sepulchral monuments of our churches, of which so
goodly a proportion is furnished by engravings on brass.

Haines' Classi- Haincs' divides Monumental Effigies into three classes :

fication of

Monumental I . Sculpturcd figurcs in Complete or low relief, executed
Effigies stone, wood, or copper.

2. Figures incised on stone or engraved on brass plates
fastened to stone.

3. Representations of the deceased painted on wood or
glass.

It is with the second of these groups that we have to
deal ; though it should be noted that sometimes a monu-
ment may be found to combine the characteristics of two
classes.^

' Introduction, p. i.

2 As for instance at Hereford Cathedral, where Bishop Richard Mayo
{d. 151 6) is commemorated by a brass {see p. 8 1) as well as by a sculptured
effigy. Haines (Introduction, p. i.) writes: — "The incised memorials
" forming the second class may indeed be considered merely imitations of
" the sculptured effigies on a flat surface, and the progressive history of the
" art shews that such was their origin."

J

INCISED CROSS SLAB,
New Romney, Kent.

[C.B.

INTRODUCTION

3

Incised slabs can be traced to a much greater antiquity incised siabi
than brasses. Of this kind of monument two sub-classes
may be said to exist : — those which are incised in the strict
sense of the word, and those which are formed by cutting
away the surface of the stone, thereby leaving the pattern
or figure in low relief with a raised border, as in the case
of so-called Keltic crosses.' Many examples of each sub-
class exist, usually in the form of crosses on slabs. The
slab proper probably derives its origin from the lid of the
stone coffin, which, gradually becoming more ornate,
reached its highest development in the stately altar-tomb.
About the twelfth century the representation of the
deceased in bas-relief on the stone coffin seems to have
come into use, being superseded later by the incised slab
proper. The best examples of this latter form are to be
found on the Continent, due, no doubt, to the greater
prevalence of a harder stone than that employed in
England. Creeny mentions as early examples those of
St. Piatus at Seclin, near Lille, c. 114.2, and of Bishop
Earthelemy de Vir at Laon, 1 158, each in pontificals ; and
that of An tone de Loncin, c. 1 160, at the Palais de Justice,
Liege, in armour, said to be the earliest incised slab in
Belgium.^

An early fragment representing an ecclesiastic with
pastoral staff, possibly of the twelfth century, exists at
Carisbrooke, Isle of Wight.^ At SaHsbury Cathedral are
two slabs commemorating respectively Bishop Roger, 1 139,

^This classification may possibly invite the criticism that this latter

Tu AU ""^^^^ ^° ^''^ two sub-classes

(called by Rev E. L. Cutts in speaking of crosses, respectively Incised and
Kaised Cross Slabs, see p. i, J Manual for the Study of the Sepulchral Slabs
^nd Crosses of the Middle Jges, 1849) are so closely connected that it would
merely encourage confusion to separate them.

■'See Plates 12, and 3, " Illustrations of Incised Slabs on the Continent
NorwiT i^i ^"^""^"S' '"'^ Tracings," by W. F. Creeny, M.A., F.S.A.,

3 In the Church. The lower part, very much worn, is in the porch of
the priory farm-house. ^

4

INTRODUCTION

and Bishop Jocelin, 1184,' which combine the two sub-
classes, lines being incised on the figure in rehef. A cross-
slab at Bosbury in Herefordshire shows the head of the
cross in low relief, whilst the stem, two other crosses and
a sword are incised. A small incised slab exists at Steeple
Langford, Wilts., representing a man with a hunting
horn, c. 1200. Another interesting specimen is at Bitton,
Gloucestershire, Sir Walter de Bitton, 1227, wherein the
upper part of the body is in bas-relief, whilst the lower
part is incised.

Besides these may be mentioned a cross-legged knight,
c. 1260, at Avenbury, Herefordshire; the slab of Bishop
St. William de Byttone, 1274, at Wells ; that of Johan de
Botiler, c. 1285, at St. Bride's, Glamorgan; and that of
William de Freney, Archbishop of Rages, c. 1290, at
Rhuddlan, N. Wales. It is of interest to note that these
five slabs belong to the thirteenth century, and are, there-
fore, contemporary with the earliest brasses, of which we
have any knowledge, in this country. Of later date may
be mentioned James Samson, Rector, 1349, Middleton,
Essex, in mass vestments; Gerard Sothill, Esq., 1401,
Redbourne, Lines.; John Cherowin, Esq., 1441, Brading,
Isle of Wight, probably of Flemish work ; and John Stone,
Vicar, 1501, Aldbourne, Wilts., in mass vestments and
holding a chalice.^

An engraving, taken from a drawing in a manuscript m
the British Museum,^ is given in the first volume of the

1 But see Rev. Canon W. H. Jones ("The Bishops of Old Sarum,"
AD 1 071:- 1 22 5— Vol. XVII., 1878, Wiltshire Archaological Magazine)
who considers the older slab to belong to Bishop Jocelin, and the other,
therefore, not to be that of his predecessor, Roger (i 107-1 13q).

2 The first is illustrated in ^rans. of Essex Jrchaological Society, New Series,
Vol VIII 1903 p i Two Essex Incised Slabs by Miller Christy and
E. Bertram SmiJh." The second in ^e Reliquary, Yo\ JV 1874-5,
p IC4. The third in ;r^/>^/mW/?y^, by Henry Richard Holloway, 2nd

edition, London, 1848, p. 107 (the length of the spurs is remarkable).
The fourth in Wiltshire Notes and Queries, Vol. II., June, 1898, p. 447-

3 Add MS., No. 10,292, fol. 5 5 v°. Also illustrated in Boutell, p. 162
{Monumental Brasses and Slabs, 1847).

INTRODUCTION

5

Archaologkal Journal (1845, p. 301) representing the process
of incising two stone slabs in the fourteenth century.^ For
a long time after the introduction of sepulchral brasses,
incised slabs seem to have run in a parallel line, keeping
the characteristics due to their different material, but ex-
hibiting an identical scheme of design and arrangement.
This is best seen on the Continent, where the Flemish
brass may be said partly to have derived its quadrangular
shape from that of the incised slab.

Haines (Introduction, pp. viii.-xiii.) produces much Limoges
evidence to show the origin of the monumental brass from Enamels
the Limoges enamel. This art of enamelling on copper,
named after the town where it flourished, was used in the
decoration of Church vessels soon after the tenth century.
Later, we find it used for monumental purposes, as on the
plate of copper in the Museum at Le Mans, which shows
an enamelled efiigy with canopy and diapered background
of the twelfth century.^ Another exists at St. Denis, 1247.'

^ Another example is afforded by MS. Royal 14, E iii,, British Museum:
" Here Flegentyne bids them build three Tombs near Tarabel," re-
produced in " Early Fourteenth Century Costume," by Oswald Barron,
F.S.A., The Ancestor, No. VIII., January, 1904, p. 152.

2 This enamel, formerly in the Church of St. Julien, has been supposed
to represent Geoffrey Plantagenet, Count of Anjou \d. 1 150), father of
Henry II. It has, also, been assigned to William D'Evereux or Fitz-
Patrick, Earl of Salisbury, c. 11 96. See "Remarks on an Enamelled
Tablet, preserved in the Museum at Mans and supposed to represent
the effigy of Geoffrey Plantagenet," by J. R. Planche. — Journal of Brit.
Arch. Assoc., Vol. I., 1845, pp. 29-39. M. Darcel considers the work to
show German influence, — see Mus'ee dti Moyen Age et de la Renaissance,
Serie D. Notice des Emaux et de I'Orfevrerie par Alfred Darcel, Paris,
1867, pp. 10, II. This is an early instance of a shield bearing arms,
see Some Feudal Coats of Arms, by Joseph Foster, 1902, in which the plate
is reproduced, p. xxxviii. It may be found also in Stothard's Monumental
Effigies, and in Planch^'s Cyclopcedia of Costume. Dictionary, 1876, p. 455,
sub. shield, where it is assigned to a " Norman Nobleman."

3 Reproduced in Willemln's Monuments, " Tombeau en bronze dor6 et
emaille de Jean fils de St. Louis, 1 247, conserve a I'Eglise royale de St.
Denis." Mr. J. Starkie Gardner writes " There are two in St. Denis, of
" the children of St. Louis, 1 243 and I 248 ; one of Blanche of Cham-
"pagne, only slightly enamelled, in the Louvre, 1283 ; and two or three

6

INTRODUCTION

This species of enamelling is known as champ-leve^ consist-
ing of a field of copper indented to receive and separate
the diiferent coloured enamels. Here, then, we see a very-
obvious connection between this treatment and the filling
up of the engraved lines of the brass with some black or
coloured substance. Instances of the use of enamel on
monuments may be seen on the tomb of William de
Valence, Earl of Pembroke, 1296, in Westminster Abbey,^
and on that of Edward the Black Prince, 1376, in Canter-
bury Cathedral. The tomb of Walter de Merton, Bishop
of Rochester, 1277, in his Cathedral, which was destroyed
in the seventeenth century, was decorated with Limoges
enamels by artists from that place. There can be no doubt
that the antiquity of the Limoges enamel is superior to
that of the monumental brass ; and from this fact and from
the great similarity of design seen in the Continental brasses
and in these enamels Haines was of opinion (Introduction,
p. viii.) " that the use of Limoges works led the way to
the employment of brass plates on the ground."
Inlaying slabs The principle of inlaying with diff'erent substances and
colours is common alike to incised slabs and brasses, and
may reasonably be derived from the Limoges enamels.
Many instances are known of incised slabs having been
inlaid with different material in order to gain additional
effect. An instance of a dark slab being inlaid with a
white composition is that of Jehan Rose, d. 1328, and his

" others in Spain." — ^ee " Enamels in connection with Ecclesiastical Art,"
by J. Starkie Gardner, F.L.S., F.G.S.— Trans, of St. Paul's Eccles. Societyy
Vol. III., 1895. Stothard and Haines mention an enamelled tablet,
formerly in the Church of St. Maurice, Angers, but destroyed at the
Revolution, representing Ulger, Bishop of Angers, 1 149. Sr^ Plate in
Planche's C'jclopadia of Costume. Dictionary, 1876, Sub. Chasuble, p. 94^
These enamels are of the kind called champleve. The Chinese cloisonne
enamel is formed by separating the colours by means of wires attached to
the metal groundwork.

Mn connection with this monument see Proceedings of the Society of
Jntiquaries, Vol. XVIII., pp. 41 1-12 (June 20th, 1901). Sir J. Charles
Robinson, F.S.A., exhibited a shield of Limoges enamel on copper with
the arms of England and De Valence quarterly.!

INTRODUCTION

7

wife, d. 1367, in the Cathedral of Meaux, an illustration
of which is given in the Archaeological Journal^ Vol. IX.,
1852, p. 384. A black substance fills the incised lines of
a slab upon an altar-tomb at North Mimms, Herts.
(Margaret Beresford 1584). Creeny gives (Plate 9) a
black marble slab, commemorating Asscheric van der
Couderborch, c. 1250, which was found with some fifty-
others serving as the bottom for the sluice of a bridge at
Cuypgat near Ghent, by Mons. van Duyse, secretary of
the Ghent Municipal Museum. The lines of the design,
which somewhat resembles that of the Wyvill brass at
Salisbury, were filled with coloured material. The slab of
Thiebauz Rupez, c. 1260, at St. Memmie, near Chalons-
sur-Marne (Creeny, Plate 10) has its lines filled with lead.'
Haines mentions (Introduction, p. x.) a slab from Villers
in Brabant, of which " the figure most artistically drawn
" has the lines usually incised on a brass, in relief, the inter-
" vening spaces, having been hollowed out and inlaid with
" thin plates of copper enamelled." Instances of incised
slabs which have had portions of their efiigies, heads, hands,
etc., inlaid in brass may be seen in Lincolnshire at Ashby
Puerorum (Priest in Mass Vestments), and at Boston,
worked in a foreign blue marble.^ The Gough Collection
of Drawings in the Bodleian Library contains examples of
slabs inlaid with coloured material.^ Indeed, it is reason-
able to infer that the habit of inlaying stone slabs with
coloured substances, copper, or brass gradually led to the
increase in importance of the latter; work in brass usurping
that hitherto seen in the surface of the stone itself, till, in
the case of English brasses, the slab is used merely as the

' Cutts (p. 4.) mentions a similar treatment of an incised slab at Atten-
borough, Notts.

^See pp. 3, J List of the Existing Sepulchral Brasses in Lincolnshire, by
the Rev. G. E. Jeans, 1895.

3 This Collection, acquired by the Bodleian Library in 1810 on the
death of Richard Gough, consists of sixteen folio volumes, being part of
the Collection of Drawings of Monuments in France formed about 1700
by M. de Gaignieres, the remainder of which is in the Bibliotheque
Nationale, Paris.

8

INTRODUCTION

Inlaying of
brasses

Advantage of
brass for
sepulchral
monuments

background for the brass effigy and ornaments; the matrix,
into which the brass is fitted in the shape of the figure, being
the only survival of the sculpture on the stone itself.

The use of enamel on copper plates let into brass is
proved by the shields on the brass of Sir John D'Auber-
noun (1277), a well-known example ; and traces of colour
may be found on the Hastings brass (1347) at Elsing, on
that of Sir John Say (1473) Broxbourne, and in other
instances. But this can hardly have become the general
practice owing to the costliness of the process. Moreover,
the choice of enamel for a permanent memorial, however
suitable, as was gilding, when applied to a brass raised on
an altar-tomb, would be prevented by its frailty when
exposed to wear and tear on the pavement of a church.
An examination of extant brasses leads to the conclusion
that, as a rule, it was part of the design to fill the incised
lines with diflferent substances of varied colours, thereby
relieving the monotony of the metal, and producing a rich
effect. In some cases a white metal was used for a similar
purpose, as, for instance, in portraying the almuce. That
the softer material no longer remains is not to be marvelled;
but we see the lines cut for its reception and to secure its
adherence. It is due to the disappearance of these com-
positions, which probably filled the grooves, that the
student is enabled to obtain an accurate reproduction of a
brass by means of that which the Rev. C. H. Hartshorne
termed "this little piece of heel-ball, uniting even fragrance
with its economy and portableness." ^

The necessity for not overcrowding a church with
monuments so cumbersome as the altar-tomb,"" gives

56, Jn Endeavour to Classify the Sepulchral Remains in Northampton-
shire, etc., by the Rev. Charles Henry Hartshorne, M.A., F.S.A., 1840.

2 William Fitz-William {d. 1474) by his will directed that he should
be buried in the Choir at Sprotborough, Yorkshire : " ita quod impedi-
mentum in aliquo non fiat eundo et redeundo ministrantibus circa Divina
officia in choro pracdicto" (Test. Ebor., Vol. III., p. 211). For account
of his brass see " Ancient Memorial Brasses remaining in the old Deanery
of Doncaster," by F. R. Fairbank, M.D., F.S.A.— Vol. XI. Yorkshire
Archaological and Topographical Journal.

4

INTRODUCTION

9

sufficient reason for the adoption of a style of memorial
which, by becoming a part of the pavement of the church,
performed a function as useful as it was ornamental. The
incised slab or effigy in very low relief soon became worn
by the feet of the faithful. Limoges enamels would soon
be broken by a like cause. Brasses engraved in deep lines
filled with coloured cements were found best suited to
resist the detrimental influences, practically unavoidable in
the conduct of the services of the Church. Hence the
very general adoption of this kind of monument in England
from the thirteenth to the seventeenth century.

The material employed for monumental brasses was an Material used
alloy of copper,' which appears to have been generally known
as latten or laton {Belg. lattoen). The chief place for its
manufacture was Cologne, from which we find it called
" Cullen plate." " The industry was confined for a long
time probably to North Germany and Flanders, where are
such splendid examples of the sepulchral brass. The plates
were imported into England^ from the beginning of the
thirteenth century. It is not till the latter half of the six-
teenth century that we find records of the manufacture in
this country at Isleworth and elsewhere."*

The following quotations from Waller {A Series of

'The analysis of the Cortewille Flemish brass, 1504, in the South
Kensington Museum is :— copper 64-0, zinc 29-5, lead 3-5, tin 3-0 in
the hundred parts.

^See Appendix for Dugdale's account of the construction of the
Beauchamp tomb, 1439, at Warwick.

3 Doubtless in connection with the exportation of wool to Flanders.
1 his accounts for the use of monumental brasses by the Wool-merchants
oi Gloucestershire, and for the prevalence of these memorials in the
counties on the East coast.

u^'a^^ the close of the i6th century the manufacture of brass was in-
^^troduced into England. Patents were granted in 1565 to several

persons, and mills were established in various places about London and
« f sewhere. Norden in his account of Middlesex mentions the ' copper
u.Z\ T ""^^ "<^^^ 'Thistleworth or Istleworth ' where ' the workmen
'^<7wlltTX ^ °f ;^Wr and brasse, of all scyces, little and great,
thick and thyn, for all purposes.' This metal was of improved manu-

lacture ; the copper was beaten out with heavy hammers worked by

lO

INTRODUCTION

How made Monumental Brasses, p. ii.) give some account of the process
How engraved of making and cngraving the pktcs I —

" The sheets of metal were cast to near the size required
" in a mould formed of two cakes of loam ; there was no
" hammering, except by wooden mallets, an operation now
" known as planishing, the object of which is to get rid of
" any twist or bend. The average size of the sheets is
"generally from 2ft. 6 in. to 2ft. 8 in.; but there is one at
Higham Ferrers, Northamptonshire, somewhat over 3 ft.,
and the Flemish brass just alluded to (" Cortewille") has
"plates measuring 3ft. 2 in. by ift. lojin. The thickness
" or gauge is about \ of an inch, but being always unequal,
" varies much in the same plate. The mode of manu-
"facture was not calculated to produce a substance of
"homogeneous structure; thus it is often found full of
" air-bubbles and flaws; and a brass, much worn, will show
" a number of small holes upon its surface. The Lynn
" brasses exhibit these defects in a remarkable manner. ...
" In English work the burin or lozenge-shaped graver is
"more constantly used. Broad lines are produced by
" repeated parallel strokes, running into each other, and
"the channel thus made is in some cases roughened by
" cross hatching as in a fine example of John de Campeden,
" 1 382, at St. Cross, near Winchester. But, in the Flemish,
"a broad chisel-shaped tool has been chiefly used; the
" channels are not so deep, and are always smooth at the
"bottom. Simple as it seems to be, this difference of
"practice has materially affected the character of the
" designs. This is especially noticeable in the treatment
" of draperies in which the Flemish brasses fall short of
" the grace and elegance to be found in English examples;
" and the reason appears to be that the broad-cutting tool
" admitted of less freedom in execution."

" water power ; and the plates thus produced were saturated with oxide
« of zinc. But they were thin, and when used for brasses, upon the pave-
"ment, are always found much bent and defaced 'W Senes of Monu-
mental Brasses from the Uirteenth to the Sixteenth Century, drawn and
engraved by J. G. and L. A. B. Waller, p. 11.

INTRODUCTION

A slab of stone, or of marble of the Purbeck or Sussex inlaid in
kind, was prepared to receive the brass' when finished, "^^''^^^ ^i^b
being hollowed out so as to form a casement, matrix, or
indent in which the brass was laid, imbedded in pitch and
fastened to the slab by means of rivets.

Some evidences of the cost of these monuments have Cost of brasses
come down to us. Sir lohn de St. Quintin, 1397, left
XX marks for a marble stone with three images of laton
to be placed over himself and two wives at Brandsburton,
Yorkshire. Katherine, widow of John Fastolff {d. 1445),
by her will dated 20th November, 1478, orders a stone to
be provided to the value of 7 or 8 marks, inlaid with the
arms of John Sampson and John Fastolf, her late husbands,
of Roger Welysham, her father, and with those of Beding-
feld. There is no mention of the two effigies in the will;
but they are reproduced in Suckling's Suffolk, 1 848, Vol. II.,
p. 40, in the account of the Church of St. Michael at
Oulton.^ The contract for the tomb of Richard, Earl of
Warwick, gives much information on this subject. {See
Appendix.) ^

The following extract (for which we are indebted to
Canon Mayo) from the will of " Thomas Denny, son and
" heir of Edmunde Denny late one of the Barons of the
^' Eschequier, 10 May, 1527; 19 Hen. VIII." gives
instructions for making a memorial brass. Unfortunately,
no such brass remains in Cheshunt Church, Herts. Possibly
the executor did not fulfil the testator's wishes : — " To be

^ An instance of a brass originally fixed on wood is at Bettws-Cedewain,
near Newtown, in Montgomeryshire, John ap Meredyth de Powys, i i,
m mass vestments.

^ ^'They were stolen, together with that of Adam de Bacon, c. 13 10,
in February, 1857. The brass of Katherine Fastolff afforded a good
example of the butterfly headdress.

3S^^ also "Some Notes on the Montacutes, Earls of Salisbury," by
lidward Kite, Wiltshire Notes and Queries, Vol. IV. (No. 47, September,
Q^r k ' P- 490, for codicil to will of Thomas de Montacute, 4th Earl of
balisbury {d. 1428), directing a tomb to be made at Bisham, Berks, for
himself and wives, the Ladies Alianore and Alice, "which tomb I desire
to be made of marble, with portraitures of each in brass, and epitaphs "

12

INTRODUCTION

" buried in parish Church of Chesthunt, where I doe dwell
" at the altar's end on the south side next before the pewe
" where I was wonte to sitte, and there I will a stone to be
" layd on me by my execut', and a picture of dethe to be
" made in the saied stone w' roules having this writing
" about hym to be written in the sayed roules, As I am so
" shall ye be, nowe pray e for me of yd^ charitie a pr nr and
*' an ave mary, for the rest of the soule of Thomas Denny
*' whiche dyed the x^'' day of May in the yere of or Lorde god
m'v^xxvii, and at the hed of the saied picture in two
" roules having this sculpture Dne secundu actum meum noli
me judicare unto the one syde, and on the other syde
'''■Delicta juventutis mee et ignorantias meas ne memineres
"•domine. Also 1 will it to be made by myne execut' a
" litle stone of halfe a yerde brode and thre quarters long
" and to be set in the wall over where I doe lye and therein
"a picture of me to be made kneling and holding up
" my hands, ingraven and gilted w* my armes another side
" and a picture of or Lorde suffering his passon in the
"upper corner and a roule gilted with this ingraven
" comyng frome my hands and upwards Mtas tuas dne in
eternu cantabo and underneth in the foote of the saied
stone one other plate graven and gilted with this therein
" written Every man that here goeth by pray for him that here
" doth lye wt a pr nr an ave mary, for the reste of the soule
« of Thomas Denny which died the x"' day of May in the yere
'-'of or Lorde God m'v'xxvii'' (28 Jankyn P.C.C.).
Artists and Very little is known as to the artists who designed or
engravers ^j^q cngravcd the brasses. But from differences

in locality and style it may be inferred that, like other
craftsmen, they formed themselves into guilds with centres
at large towns, such as London, York, or Norwich.
There is little to go by but a similarity of design, from
which, however, it is obviously unsafe to infer that because
any two brasses have similarities, they were, therefore,
either designed or worked by the same hand. The most
important school of engraverslwas that settled in London
which supplied the greater number of brasses. Provincial

INTRODUCTION 13

engravers, as a rule, show inferior workmanship, though
there is good local work to be found in Yorkshire and
Lincolnshire, probably executed by engravers making York
their headquarters. The special characteristics marking
the Norwich school are to be met with throughout Norfolk
and Suffolk. Some peculiarities seen in Cambridgeshire
and Essex (as for instance on the brasses of ladies, men-
tioned on p. 283) may prove the existence of several
engravers at Cambridge in the sixteenth century; and
proofs of a school supplying the Midlands may be seen in
the local work, such as the ecclesiastical brasses at Coles-
hill (WiUiam Abell, 1500) and at Whitnash (Richard
Bennett, M.A., 1531), Warwickshire. Sometimes an
extraordinary and grotesque effect is produced, owing to
lack of craftsmanship. Such may be seen at Preston
Lancashire, where the effigy of Seath Bushell, woollen
draper, 1623, has more the appearance of a modern
caricature by "Max" than of a sepulchral memorial.^

A device, which may be an artist's signature,^ or possibly
the mark of the brass manufacturer, occurs on the brass of
Lady Creke, c. 1325, at Westley Waterless, Cambs.,
representing the letter N reversed over which is a mallet,
and on the dexter side a crescent and on the sinister
a star of six points. The N reversed is also found on the
Camoys brass, 1424, at Trotton, Sussex. Waller, in
his description of the Creke brass, mentions a seal of
Walter the Mason, attached to a deed, on which a
mallet with a crescent and a star of five points appears.
This device of a star and crescent is mentioned in the
Arch^ologkal Journal (Vol. III., 1846, p. 345), as used by

' S^^ illustration in T:he Monumental Brasses of Lancashire and Cheshire, by
^ames L. Thornely, 1893. See also Records of the Parish Church of Preston
'' f^^^nderness, hy Tom. C. Smith, F.R.Hist.Soc, Preston, 1892, pp.
250-9 and 287-8. ^ '

^Boutell gives an illustration {Monumental Brasses and Slabs, p. 14.0) of
a palimpsest fragment now in the British Museum, of a Flemish inscrip-
non formerly m Trunch Church, Norfolk, on which is a shield charged
with a crescent and star and the letter W. ^

14 INTRODUCTION

Hawisia de Wygornia for a seal to a document, dated 1 254.'

Signatures are, occasionally, found in later years, par-
ticularly on inscriptions of the seventeeth century. The
Flemish brass of Margaret Svanders, 1529, at Fulham,
has the initials G. O.^ The initials A. H. and R. H.
found respectively on the brasses of Bishop Henry Robin-
son and Provost Airay, both 1616, at Queen's College,
Oxford, have been supposed by Haines to refer to Abraham
and Remigius Hogenbergh ; but it is possible that the
latter may refer to Dr. Richard Haydock, fellow of New
College, whose work is to be seen in the brass of Erasmus
Williams, 1608, at Tingewick, Bucks, and who composed
the inscription to Thomas Hopper, 1623, at New College.^
An engraver's monogram occurs on the brass of William
Waller (1636), St. Paul's, Bedford.-* The Filmer brass
(1638) at East Sutton, Kent, is signed: "Ed. Marfhall
sculpfit." At Tamworth, in Warwickshire, the inscrip-
tion to Anne, wife of John Chambers, 1650, is signed,
"J.C. composuit, E.C. sculpsit, W.C. dedit."^ In the

I " The name of an artist was recorded on the brass of Bishop Philip,
" 1 241, formerly at Evreux, * Guillaume de Plalli me fecit,' and another
" was on an incised slab, formerly in the church of St. Yved de Braine,
" in France, representing Robert, Count de Dreux, who died 1223. It
" was inscribed upon the fillet at the feet of the figure thus : ' Letarous me
" fecit.' Drawings of these are preserved in Gough's Collection in the
" Bodleian Library, Oxford. These instances are of particular interest,
" and suggest to us the question, whether we have here the nanie of the
" designer, or of him who executed the work. It is scarcely possible that
" the workman and the designer were one."— Waller, A Series of Monu-
mental Brasses, Introduction, p. iv.

2 Possibly those of her husband, Gerard Hornebolt, the painter.

3 See J Catalogue of the Brasses in Queen's College, Oxford, by P. Manning,
M.A., F.S.A., pp. 67-79; Journal of the Oxford University Brass Rubbing
Society, Vol. L, No. 2, June, 1897, p. 78.

4 See Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. II., p. 90.

5 Her children's names were William, Edmund, John, and Elizabeth.
See " A Few Notes on Monumental Brasses with a Catalogue of those
existing in Warwickshire," by Charles Williams, Transactions of the Bir-
mingham and Midland Institute {Archaological Section), ^

1887, p. 47. A brass in Chichester Cathedral, William^ Bradbridge and
wife Alice, is signed " Fynished in July, i 592, A. L. B."

1

INTRODUCTION

15

Gwydir Chapel, Llanrwst, Denbighshire, the brass of
Mary, wife of Sir Roger Mostyn, 1653, is the work of
"Silvanus Crue " ; that of Sarah, wife of Sir Richard
Wynne, 1 67 1, of" Guil. Vaughan." In Yorkshire there are
several signed brasses.' The name of " Gabr. Hornbie "
occurs on an inscription at Nunkeeling (George Acklam,
1629); that of "Fr: Grigs" on the brass of John and
Grace Morewood, 1647, at Bradfield, near Sheffield. It
is also found, 1640, at Upton Cressett, Shropshire (Richard
Cressett and Wife), and at St. Osyth's, Essex (John Darcy,
Serjeant-at-Law). "Tho. Mann Eboraci sculp." occurs
on brasses at Lowthorp (John Pierson, 1665) ; Normanton
(Richard Mallet, 1668); Ingleby Arnclifte (Elizabeth
Mauleverer, 1674); Rudstone (Katherine, wife of John
Constable, 1677). "J- Mann Ebor. sculp' " occurs on the
brass of John Wilson, 1681, at Bedale. "P. Brigges,
Ebor." signs the brass of Roger Talbot, 1 680, at Thornton-
le-Street, and " Ric. Crosse " that of Peter Samwaies,
rector, 1693, at Bedale. "George Harris Fecit" occurs
on an inscription at Deddington, Oxon. (Thomas Higgins,
1660).

A few brasses, by the fineness of their engraving, are
evidendy the work of goldsmiths, as in the case of the
palimpsest reverse, c. 1 500, at Berkhampstead, Herts, to
Thomas Humfre, goldsmith, of London {see p. 64, note 2).
A later example is at St. Andrew's, Auckland, Durham,
to Fridesmonda, wife of Richard Barnes, Bishop of
Durham-^* ^

The use of engraved plates of brass for sepulchral Thirteenth
monuments seems to have arisen early in the thirteenth ^'"'"'>'

Brasses

J.f'^ 5^!" Stephenson in Vols. XII., XV., and XVII. of the Tork-

J- p- y^^ler writes ^rchaologia Aeliana,Vo\. XV., p. 81V—

accountri cgf "tt ^'^^ ^'^'^^P'^

for n n ; f^' °^ ^ payment ' to the gouldsmythe at Yorke

for a plate to sett over Mrs. Barnes, 32s.' " ^ ^

i6

INTRODUCTION

century; ^ but very few remains of that period have come
down to us. Leland records an inscription on brass, once
existing in St. Paul's Church, Bedford, to Simon de
Beauchamp, Earl of Bedford, c. 1208.^ An engraving
(Planche 18), in the second volume of Montfaucon's
Monumens de la Monarchic Franfoise, 1730, gives an early
design of a brass, commemorating Philippe and Jean, the
sons of Louis VIII. (i 223-1 226). On a quadrangular
plate the two boys are portrayed beneath a double canopy,
above which four angels, holding incense boats, swing
censers ; the background is composed of fleurs-de-lis.^ The
oldest extant brass is that at Verden, representing in
pontificals Ysowilpe Graf von Welpe in Lower Saxony, who
became the thirty-first Bishop of Verden in 1205, and
died on the nones of August, 1231. It consists of one

1 Boutell aptly writes {Motiumefttal Brasses and Slabs, p. 7) : "Nor is it less
" worthy of remark that these incised monumental plates were produced
" in abundance, and in high perfection, more than two centuries previous
" to the discovery of the art of engraving plates of metal for the purpose
"of impression. To Mazo Finiquerra, a goldsmith of Florence who
"flourished about the year 1460, is assigned the distinguished honour
" of having made the discovery of copper-plate engraving, properly so-
" called: and thus, during no less a period than 250 years, with an
" abundance of engraven plates in existence, all of which were expressly
" calculated to produce fac-simile copies by means of impression, the art
« of taking impressions remained altogether unknown."

^See "The Brasses of Bedfordshire," by H. K. St. J. Sanderson, Tran-
sactions of Cambridge University Association of Brass Collectors (now the
Monumental Brass Society), Vol. II., p. 41-2.

3 " La planche suivante nous montre Philippe et Jean de France, fils de
" Louis VIII. et de Blanche de Castille, comme marque I'mscnption tout
" au tour en quatre tr^s-mauvais vers Latins. lis moururent tous deux
" fort ieu'nes. Leurs corps gisent sous la mcme tombe de cuivre au milieu
" du chceur de Notre Dame de Poissi. lis ont chacun une espece de
" petite couronne, et un sceptre qu'ils portent de la mam droite,_et qui se
" termine en haut par une fieur de lis. Celui qui est a la droite, tient de la
" main gauche un gand. C'est le gand de la mam qui soutenoit 1 oiseau
"que les grands Seigneurs, les Princes et les Rois memes se faisoient un
" honneur de porter. C'est Philippe qui le tient, et qui comme am6 de
"Jean, par6it avoir cette prerogative sur lui. — Montfaucon, Vol. II.,

120.

INTRODUCTION

sheet of brass, over six feet in length, surrounded by a
fillet on which is an inscription in Lombardic capitals,
spaces for the nails being allowed for in the arrangement
of the lettering. The style of the design and engraving
much resembles that of the incised slabs of the period,
from which, no doubt, this was a departure. An illustra-
tion of this brass may be seen in Creeny's book of Fac-
similes of Brasses on the Continent^ where a similar thirteenth
century one, that of Bishop Otto de Brunswick, 1279,
the Cathedral of Hildesheim, is given.

We have evidence of the former existence in England
of various brasses during this century ; such as that of
Bishop Bingham of Salisbury ; ' of Richard de Berkyng,
Abbot of Westminster, 1246, etc. ; but the earliest effigies
that survive to this day are those of Sir John Daubernoun,
c. 1277, at Stoke d'Abernon, Surrey, and of Sir Roger de
Trumpington, 1289, at Trumpington, near Cambridge.
At Wimborne Minster, Dorset, is a brass commemorating
St. Ethelred, King of the West Saxons, 872 ; but the half-
effigy and shield belong to the fifteenth, and the inscription
on copper in Roman capitals to about the end of the six-
teenth century.^ At Ashbourn in Derbyshire, a Lombardic
inscription recording the dedication of the church, 1241,
is probably a copy of an older plate.^ In Westminster
Abbey an important slab survives, showing a portion of
the stem of a brass cross, with a marginal inscription in
Lombardic lettering, enclosed in narrow brass fillets, of

which eight letters (lame: rlea) still remain, the

space between the stem and the inscribed border being
filled in with glass mosaic in red, white, and gold. This

^ The matrix, showing a demi-effigy with mitre and crozier in the
cen^tre of a cross flory, is illustrated in Kite's Monumental Brasses of Wiltshire,

^See some remarks in J History of Wimborne Minster, by Charles Mayo
London, i86o, pp. 7 and 135. Haines gives the date of the effigy!
c, 144.0. °^ '

3 Illustrated Transactions of Monumental Brass Society, Vol. Ill n 200
April, 1899. ^'

similar to that
of architecture

1 8 INTRODUCTION

may be the memorial of John de Valence or de Var/^^nce,
son of William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, c. 1270/
At Hereford Cathedral is a small figure of St. Ethelbert,
part of the brass, formerly existing, of Bishop Thomas
Cantilupe, 1282.

Development The history of the development of design in English
brasses is, practically, identical with that of English archi-
tecture. As in the buildings, so in the brasses, we note
an insular individuality of style. Indeed, in many re-
spects our brasses may be distinguished from those on the
Continent; perhaps the most noticeable departure being
the difference in shape. For, whereas the foreign brasses,
as a rule, consist of quadrangular sheets of metal, this
form, putting aside the later mural brass, is the excep-
tion in England ; and when it does occur in the earlier
periods may, usually, be attributed directly to Flemish
influence.^

It is no part of this essay to trace the development of
Gothic architecture in England ; but an acquaintance with
its main features is necessary, if an intelligent study of
brasses be desired. This may be cultivated in Rickman,
and Parker, and in other works, and, above all, in the
buildings themselves. Unfortunately, but few of the
Decorated Canopies of the fourteenth century remain to
us, though their beauty of form may be traced in surviving
indents ; but of the Perpendicular work of the next cen-
tury many fine examples exist. Indeed, so accurately do
they reflect the architecture of their time, that were no
other proof available, the date of a brass could often be
fixed by comparing its canopy with well-known dated

1 An excellent reproduction of this slab, made from a water-colour
fac-simile done by Miss E. M. Vincent, will be found in J Series of Photo-
lithographs of Monumental Brasses in Westminster Abbey, mostly from rubbings
taken by E. M. Beloe, junr. 1898.

2 It is possible that the costliness of the brass, due to the fact that it
was not manufactured in England, may account for the shape of English
brasses. There was not the same need of economy in Flanders, the
material being more easily procured.

INTRODUCTION

examples in stone. Like Gothic architecture, the monu-
mental brass, which can hardly be considered other than
an accessory of the style, reached its perfection in the
fourteenth century, and shared the stately decline of the
Perpendicular period. The succeeding Renaissance,
owing either to inferiority of craft and material, or to some
subtle lack of sympathy in the classical spirit with a
medium, so successful during the Gothic age, did not
reach in brasses that perfection which it attained in other
arts. Possibly there may be something essentially Gothic
in this art, a quality born of tradition, since, theoretically,
there is no reason why the classical treatment should not
be equally successful. But it is curious to note that this
view has been supported by the practice of the Gothic
revivalists of the nineteenth century. The Renaissance
artists, moreover, with their love for work in relief, may
have found the necessary limitations of the flat surface of
the brass irksome to them.

The arrangement of brasses in periods presents the Arrangement
same difficulties which we encounter in architecture owing ''^ Periods
to the overlapping of styles, and to the fact that the
gradual growth of ideas with their concrete embodiment,
though, doubdess, witnessing to the flight of time, does
not, necessarily, take account of artificial divisions into
reigns or centuries. The Rev. H. W. Macklin in his
excellent handbook' divides brasses into seven periods,
the^ final one beginning with the reign of Charles I.
Haines groups them, in a somewhat broader survey, into
three periods: — (i) The fourteenth; (2) the fifteenth;
(3) the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. In following
this latter arrangement we have to consider some of the
mam characteristics, leaving the changes in costume for
separate treatment.

The first period covers the fourteenth century, extending The xiv.
from the beginning of the reign of Edward I., 1272, to the Century
end of that of Richard II., 1399, ^^d in many respects is

^Monumental Brasses, ^ih edition, 1898, pp. 15-17.

20

INTRODUCTION

the most important of the three. In it we include the
brasses at Stoke D'Abernon and Trumpington, already
mentioned as the only brass effigies of the thirteenth century
left to us in England. Its finest work was that seen in
the Flemish brasses of the middle of the century, of which
we treat below. The engraving was executed on thick and
hard plates, in bold and graceful lines without shading,
and deeply cut. It is indicative of the excellence of the
work and material used in this century that these earlier
brasses, where they have escaped deliberate vandalism, are,
usually, to be found in far better preservation than those
of a later period. The general treatment is revealed in
the use of the recumbent position and in the absence of
any apparent effort at portraiture. Ecclesiastics have the
grave countenances befitting their profession. To the
earlier part of this period belong the few cross-legged,
mail-clad knights that survive. The figures are usually
about life-size, though we find them somewhat diminished
after the introduction of canopies under Edward II. Half-
length figures and busts seem to have been in fashion.
The Floriated cross was a favourite form of brass, its head
frequently enclosing a figure of the deceased, and it is de-
plorable that so few remain of what was once a numerous
class. Its use led to the development from it of the so-
called Bracket-brass, of which some beautiful examples
survive. The representation of children on brasses is rare,
and when it occurs the figures are usually not much inferior
in size to that of the parents. The canopies of this period
have suffered much from spoliation ; ' they appear to have
grown in elaboration similarly to the stonework, which
they imitated. The earliest inscriptions are in Lombardic
characters, each letter being fixed into its own matrix on
the slab, and in some cases enclosed in narrow fillets of

I That of Lady Joan de Cobham, 1 3 20, at Cobham, Kent (see Chap. VI.),
is the only specimen left of the pedimental canopy of the earlier part of
the century.

INTRODUCTION

21

brass.^ This rather insecure method gave place to en"
graving the words on fillets of brass placed as a border to
the slab.- At the beginning of Edward III.'s reign black
letter^ was introduced with Lombardic capitals/ and we
find inscriptions placed beneath the figures. Generally
speaking, the inscriptions are of a simple nature. Latin
is used, as a rule, for priests, and Norman-French fre-
quently occurs for knights and their ladies. Dates are
the exception rather than the rule. An early instance
occurs on the palimpsest inscription in Denchworth Church,
Berks (1333, St. Margaret's Day, the date of the surrender
of Berwick), recording the laying of the foundation-stone
of Bisham Priory by Edward III. At Cholsey, in the

^ In YiAteh Monumental Brasses of Wiltshire, p. 10, is an illustration of
a stone slab, not earlier than 1322, showing indents of a cross fleury sur-
mounted by the half-effigy of a priest, and of a Lombardic marginal
inscription, once of brass, as witness the inscription in Norman-French : —

"+ SOUTZ • CESTE • PERE • LETTERE • OV • LATON • GIST • WILl'm • LA • SEINT •
lOHN • DE • RAMM • ESBVRY • PERSONE • ET • PER • POR • SA • ALME • PRIER •
ORASON • QARANT • lOVRS • ASSVRON • DE • p'dON."

The matrix of the brass of Boneface de Hart, Canon of Aosta, c. 1320,
at Hornchurch, Essex (a cross fleury with two half-effigies of ecclesiastics
and Lombardic marginal inscription), retains a small piece of the outer
fillet, the letters N and F in " BONEFACE," and the upper dot of the
colon after " SIRE." See " Some Interesting Essex Brasses," by Miller
Christy and W. W. Porteous, in The Reliquary and Illustrated Archaeologist,
N.S., Vol. VII., 1 90 1. At Peterborough are preserved a letter V and a
circular stop from the inscription of Abbot Godfrey de Croyland, 1329,
and at Watlington, Norfolk, five diamond-shaped stops remain on the slab
of Sir Robert de Montalt, 1329. See "Notes on some early matrices in
the Eastern Counties," by E. M. Beloe, junr., Journal of the Oxford Uni-
versity Brass Rubbing Society, Vol. II., No. I., Feb., 1900, pp. 35-39. In
the British Museum are preserved the Lombardic letters A D M N and
T, c. 1330. That these letters appear to have been imbedded in pitch
without rivets is sufficient reason for their scarcity at the present day.
^In the Essex Review, Vol. X., 1901, "Some Interesting Essex
Brasses," by Miller Christy and W. W. Porteous, p. 87, three fragments
are cited, as existing, of the fillet inscribed with Lombardic lettering to
Sir — Fitzralph, c. 1320, at Pebmarsh, Essex.

3 An early example is at North Ockenden, Essex, lohan baucholi, f . 1 3 30.

4 As at Stanstead Montfitchet, Essex, Robert de Bokkyngg, vicar, 1361.

22

INTRODUCTION

same county, the French inscription to John Barfoot bears
the date 8 th October, 1361.

The XV. The second period begins with the reign of Henry IV.

Century 1399, ^'^^s with the death of Henry VII. in 1509,

following the fortunes of the Houses of Lancaster and
York to their union in the latter monarch. Great delicacy
distinguishes the early work of this century ; cross-shading
is introduced and the lines are finer than in the former
period. Gradually, as the century advances, convention-
ality of treatment becomes more marked, and shading is
more frequently introduced, often to the disadvantage of
the composition. The greater extension of the use by all
classes ' of this form of monument leads to a greater diver-
sity in artistic merit. The figures become smaller, and
the presence of flowers and of grass beneath the feet begins
to denote an erect attitude. The greater extravagance in
dress, especially in the development of the ladies' head-
dress, is noticeable, and led to the frequent use of the
figure in profile instead of the former full-face attitude,
still retained by the clergy. The demi-figure, except for
priests, is not so frequent a feature as in the last century.
The portrayal of children on the brasses of their parents
becomes of common occurrence, sometimes placed beneath
the parents, sometimes standing beside them as diminutive
figures. Brasses of children, alone, are to be found, as at
Blickling, Norfolk, 1479. mural brass with kneeling

figures, a form that became very common in the next
century, is introduced. Floriated crosses of very fine
work are to be found in the earlier part of the century, as
at Stone, Kent (John Lumbarde, Rector, 1408), but are
superseded by the simpler cross fleury. Fine examples of
bracket-brasses exist, as at Upper Hardres, Kent, 1405,
and Merton College, Oxford, 1420, in the former of which

I This fact adds greatly to the value of these memorials, ranging as they
do from the Duchess of Gloucester, wife of Thomas of Woodstock, 1399,
in Westminster Abbey, to the blacksmith at Beauchampton, Bucks
(William Bawdyn, 1600).

BRACKET BRASS. JOHN STRETE, 1+05,
Upper Hardres, Kent.

C.B.]

r

\

INTRODUCTION

23

we see a good instance of the introduction of figures of
Apostles, as of other sacred personages and scenes at this
time. The canopies, of which there are many very fine
specimens, follow the progress of the Perpendicular style,
the gradual deterioration of which towards the close of the
century is very noticeable in the treatment of the crockets
and finials. The ogee is the favourite shape for the arch.
A curious feature of this period is seen to advantage in
Yorkshire, and later in Norfolk in the adoption of devices
with inscriptions, such as the chalice for a priest. In-
scriptions are frequently formed of raised lettering,' and
in some instances the spaces between the words are filled
with grotesque figures of animals and flowers. At the end
of the century the letters are often crowded together and
consequently difficult to read. The Norman-French
language and Lombardic capitals go out of use, and are
succeeded by Latin with the occasional use of English,''
and Gothic black-letter or church-text. Arabic numerals
exist, but are uncommon. An example, late in the century,
is afforded by the brass of Thomas Greville, Chrysom,
1892, at Stanford Rivers, Essex. The disagreeable prac-
tice, introduced from the Continent, of presenting emaci-
ated figures or skeletons in shrouds is a characteristic of
this century, and is sometimes carried to an unsavoury
excess. Examples are found in the eastern counties, where
they show an English individuality of treatment. It is
difficult to understand what satisfaction such a monument
can have given either to the person commemorated, if
worked in his lifetime, or to his relatives after his decease.
It betrays an attitude of mind, which, though found in so
eminent a person as Dr. Donne, we may hope has long
since disappeared.

The third period, in which the similarity of design xvi. & xvii.

Centuries

' A good example, of the next century, is the inscription at Flam-
borough, Yorkshire, to Sir Marmaduke Constable, Knt., c. 1520.

2 An early example is at Holm-by-the-Sea, Norfolk (Kerry Notingham
and wife, c. 14.05).

24

INTRODUCTION

admits of the treatment of the two centuries in one divi-
sion, spreads over the reigns of the Tudor and Stuart
Dynasties. ^ This is the age of the deterioration of brasses
and of their final extinction in the seventeenth century ;
but in many respects this decadence is important. As
already mentioned, the medium does not appear to have
gained the sympathy of the best Renaissance workmen,
from which fact, in England at all events, brasses may be
defined as essentially Gothic in spirit. The workmanship,
with few exceptions, is much coarser and weaker than in
the former periods, and the practice of shading becomes
an abuse. The quality of the metal, moreover, especially
after the reign of Elizabeth, when it was first manufactured
in this country, is much inferior to the earlier material,
being much thinner and more easily worn. The erect
attitude has become the favourite ; the figures standing on
a marble pavement or low, rounded pedestal. Haines
observes (Introduction, p. ccxv.) that this attitude is
adopted in brasses long before it came into use for the
sculptured effigy. The mural brass becomes common,
frequently set in a stone or marble framework of classical
design. In it the deceased are often represented kneeling
at faldstools, husband and wife facing each other with their
sons and daughters grouped on either side behind them.'
It should be noted that these mural brasses, which are of
a moderate size, usually consist of a rectangular plate, the
background being filled in with classical architectural
details, armorial bearings, etc. A certain lack of dignity
is often to be seen, as in the portrayal of domestic events,
e.g., at Heston, Middlesex (Constance, wife of Mordecai
Bownell, 1581), or of occupations, as at Walton-on-
Thames, Surrey (John Selwyn, 1587). Brasses of children
become common, and we find the variety known as the

' The demi-effigy is uncommon. See mural brasses in York Minster,
representing (i) Elizabeth Eynns, daughter of Sir Edward Nevell, one
of the gentlewomen of the privy chamber to Queen Elizabeth, 1582;
and (2) James Cotrel, Esq., 1595. Also at Little Warley, Essex (Anne
Tyrrell, 1592).

J

■^iHfljjlii' nu'iiiisli'af.- -limliiHnDojBp;
of f-f i VjiflbMiifin.lUT Jilt 'n^nci,!!!. teu;

i

m

CHRYSOM BRASS.
ELYN, DAUGHTER OF SIR EDMOND BRAY, 1516,
Stoke D'Abernon, Surrey.

[C.B.

INTRODUCTION

25

**chrysom," denoting the early death of the infant in a
regenerate state. The influence of the Reformation is
quite as visible as that of the Renaissance. Of the triumph
of the latter, one of the best examples is the brass of Don
Parafan de Ribera, Duke of Alcala, at Seville, 1571.'
The influence of the former gives us many mournful or
allegorical symbols, which replace those of an earlier age.
Skulls and crossbones, hour-glasses, and other funeral
ornaments succeed the evangelistic symbols, and the
emblems of the Trinity or of the Passion. The Prayer
for the dead is omitted from the inscriptions, which are
much more ornate than in the former periods, epitaphs
displaying, at times, elaborate eulogies, which are as foreign
as possible to the good taste and reticent simplicity of a
former age. There is, too, a more pompous display of
heraldry, the shield commonly being surmounted by an
elaborate helmet and manding. English becomes the
usual language of inscriptions, often badly spelt, though
Latm is frequently retained by the clergy. In the six-
teenth century Roman capitals came into use. The later
Gothic canopies become very much debased; the best
mstances of the Renaissance style of building occur on
Contmental brasses. The class of effigies, described
above as shroud or skeleton brasses, is common. A dis-
gusting instance of this unpleasantness may be seen at
Oddmgton, Oxon., c. 15 10 (Ralph Hamsterley, rector,
l^eUow of Merton College, Oxford, died 151 8).

In the eighteenth century there are very few instances xvlii. and
ot the use of brass effigies for sepulchral monuments, xix. Centuries

' The inscription in Roman capitals runs : —

" Hoc jacet in tumulo, quern virtus vexit ad astra :
Quern canet ad summum debita fama diem.
Tempore diverso duo regna amplissima rexit :
Barchinoem juvenis Parthenopenque senex.
Dum fuit Eois fulsit quasi sidus Eoum :

Dum fuit Hesperiis, Hesperus alter erat.
Flere nefas ilium, qui foelix vivit ubique,
c , homines vivus, mortuus ante deos.

See Greeny s Book of Facsimiles of Brasses on the Continent.

26

INTRODUCTION

Two occur at St. Mary Cray, Kent, namely those of
Philadelphia Greenwood, 1747, and Benjamin Greenwood,
1775. Although of some interest as fashion-plates, they
possess no artistic value. The revival of Gothic architec-
ture in the nineteeth century, aided by the religious
movement at Oxford, has resuscitated an art long dormant.
Instances of good work are not uncommon. A favourite
form was a cross engraved on a rectangular plate ; but the
cross proper has some representatives of merit in the
nave of Westminster Abbey. Instances of effigies are
increasing. A good example of a large brass is that of the
Rev. Richard Temple West {d. 1893) in mass vestments
in the church of St. Mary Magdalene, Paddington : ' of a
small one that of Martin White Benson (1878), son of
Archbishop Benson, in the cloisters of Winchester College.
A fine brass, designed in the Flemish manner by E. R.
Singer, is in Bristol Cathedral (Rev. Jordan Roquette
Palmer-Palmer, 1885). Both Haines and Creeny are
appropriately commemorated by brasses; the former in
Gloucester Cathedral, the latter in St. Michael-at-Thorn,
Norwich.

Distribution The ncxt point for consideration is the distribution of
of brasses brasses. Many thousands must have existed in former
times on the continent of Europe, as well as in England,
of a large proportion of which not even matrices remain.
Creeny gave two hundred as the probable limit to the
number of brasses left on the Continent.^ In England
more than five thousand survive, owing to the preserva-
tion of which the study of brasses may be said to have

1 See In Memory of the Rev. R. T. West, M.J., First Ficar 0/ Saint Mary
Magdalene, Paddington. A Description of the Memorial Brass, with illustra-
tion [by J. G. Wood].

2 " One small one at Amiens and some few unimportant ones at Douay
are all that now remain in that land [France]. In Germany about
seventy-five, and in Belgium about sixty or seventy, almost complete the
catalogue " p iv., Creeny's book oi Facsimiles of Monumental Brasses on the
Continent. A few exist in Denmark, and at least three are known in
Spain.

INTRODUCTION 27

become, pre-eminently, an English pursuit. Moreover,
an accurate exploration of a county, such as that conducted
by the Rev. Edmund Farrer in Norfolk, or that made by
Messrs. Miller Christy, and W. W. Porteous in Essex,
may be found to increase very considerably the number
above that given by Haines in 1861.^ Both in Scotland
and in Ireland matrices occur, but brasses are very rare.
In the former kingdom there is a mural brass, 1613, at
Aberdeen ; another exists at Glasgow, 1 605 ; a third com-
memorates the Regent Murray, 1569-70, in St. Giles's,
Edinburgh. In St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, are four
mural brasses ; in Christchurch Cathedral one. The Prin-
cipality of Wales has preserved about a score. At Peel,
in the Isle of Man, is the brass inscription of Bishop
Rutter (1662). In the Channel Islands matrices may be
seen. The presence and survival of so many brasses in
this country may be attributed to a superior stability of
government, and the consequent greater prosperity of the
nation. They are scattered, very unequally, over the
different counties ; those on the east coast (Kent, Essex,
Norfolk, and Suffolk) containing the greater number;
after which come the home counties. As a general rule,
the farther north and west we travel, the sparser do the
brasses become, until we find Northumberland repre-
sented by three brasses, one being the Flemish brass at
Newcastle-on-Tyne ; and Westmorland by but two brasses
bearing effigies.^ The chief cause of this unequal dis-
tribution must be the greater intercourse of the eastern
counties, and of those surrounding London with the
Continent, and especially with Flanders.

Brasses are of all sizes. The largest known is that at
Schwerin, representing Bishops Godfrey (13 14) and
Frederic de Bulowe (1375), which measures 12 ft. 7 in.

^In Norfolk, counting inscriptions, over one thousand brasses are
known to exist ; in Essex nearly five hundred.

Morknd ''^ ^^^^ °" '^^^''^ °^ Palimpsest inscription at

28

INTRODUCTION

by 6 ft. 4 in. Among the largest in England is the Wal-
sokne brass at King's Lynn, lo ft. by 5 ft. 7 in. The slab
at Durham, in which is the matrix of Bishop Beaumont's
brass (died 1333), measures 15 ft. 10 in. by 9 ft. 7 in.
One of the smallest in existence must be the mural
inscription at Long Burton, Dorset, commemorating
Nathaniel Faireclough, intruding Rector of Stalbridge,
1656, which is 5J inches square. A very diminutive
effigy may be seen at Cheam, Surrey (John Yerd, c. 1480).
Some account A large book might be filled with records of the
of the treat- sDoliation and misusa^e to which brasses have been sub-

ment to which . r o • i i c •

they have been jcctcd ; wc must be content With a short survey ot their
subjected treatment. And we must be grateful that Fate has dealt
more kindly with England than with other countries in
this respect. If we review the history of Scotland or that
of France, it is easy to find sufficient cause for the dis-
appearance of sepulchral monuments. In the latter
country, indeed, in a great many cases what religious
fanaticism spared in the sixteenth, the Revolution of the
end of the eighteenth century destroyed.'

In Pre-Reformation times, moreover, it is not impro-
bable that the tomb of a benefactor or illustrious personage
may have usurped the burial-place of some humbler indi-
vidual ; since interments in their churches became a source
of emolument to the monastic orders.^ But the extent of
such transactions must have been trifling when compared
with the havoc wrought in the sixteenth century. The

1 Many of the monuments no longer in existence are described and
engraved in Montfaucon. We have already referred (p. 7, note 3) to the
Collection of Drawings, made under the supervision of M. de Gaignidres,
c. 1 700, and now preserved in the Bodleian Library.

2 " And in beldyng of toumbes

Thei traveileth grete,

To chargen her cherche flore

And chaungen it ofte." (Referring to the Friars.)
lines 997-1000, The Creed of Piers Ploughman. S^^The Vision and
Creed of Piers Ploughman, edited by Thomas Wright, M.A., F.S.A.
London, 1856. Vol. IL (2nd edition), p. 480.

INTRODUCTION

29

suppression by Henry VIII., in 1536, of the lesser
monasteries, followed, in 1539, by that of their more
wealthy brethren, whatever political justification may sup-
port it, can only be regarded by the antiquary as an almost
incalculable calamity. With the destruction of the re-
ligious houses their monuments disappeared, except in
those cases in which the preservation of a portion of the
fabric was due to the grant of its use as a parish church.
For, the laton being a marketable metal, all orders of the
realm were not slow to follow the example of greed and
rapine, set by the king and his commissioners. The class
of brasses known as ''Palimpsest^' of which we treat below,
was largely added to at this time, an old brass being
bought and then adapted or re-engraved to suit the taste
or purpose of the purchaser. Sometimes, not only the
brass, but the slab in which it was laid, was taken.
Gough,^ quoting Blomfield, records that Robert, Earl of
Sussex, paved his hall, kitchen, and larder with the slabs
contaming brasses taken from the chancel of Attleborough
Church, Norfolk, granted him by the king at the dissolu-
tion of the college. Gough also^ cites a document, then
in the Augmentation Office, giving particulars of the sale
of monastic property, 1538-9 : —

" County of Warwick, Mirival, six gravestones with
brasses on them, 5J.

" County of Stafford, Darley, the tombs and grave-
stones with the metal on them, and roof of the church
isles, etc., sold for lio^ '

In Nichols' Leicestershire,^ is an extract from the
Churchwardens' Accounts of St. Martin's, Leicester, i C47
TTt ^L""^^"''' follows:-" By the commandment
ot Mr. Mayor and his brethren, according to the King's

^ Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., Part I., p. cxxii.
^ The same, p. cxx.

3 Vol. I., pp. 570-71.

4 pp. cxlii.-iii., Introduction.

30 INTRODUCTION

"Injunctions, in the year of our Lord 1546, and the first
" year of the reign of Edward the Sixth, . • . Four
" hundred and a quarter of brass was sold for 1 9J. per cwt.
"to one man; and three hundred weight and three
" quarters was sold to another at the same price, and one
" hundred to William Taylor." '

Throughout the short reign of Edward VI. many monu-
ments must have fallen a prey to reforming zeal. At
Wigtoft, in Lincolnshire, in 1550, 85. was given for
" xxiii stone of leten," and Gough relates ^ that when the
materials of St. Andrew's Church, Lincoln, were sold in
155 1, the plate in the chapel with the plate of other stones
in the church was valued at 40J. The destruction of
monuments must have received some check from the
short counter-reformation of the next reign; but when
Elizabeth ascended the throne it seems to have been m
baneful progress, as we find from the account given by
Weever in his Ancient Funeral Monuments, 1631 ; so much
so that the queen issued a proclamation in 1560, to put an
end to this wanton practice ;3 but in spite of her efforts
we find, in 1579, Dean Whittingham of Durham appro-
priating to his use many of the slabs in that cathedral.
Indeed, so constantly must the war against valuable monu-
ments have been waged that we find at Horshill, Surrey,
in 1603, inscriptions to John Fayth and Thomas Sutton,
ending "Gentle reader, deface not this stone ";-* and
Haines cites ' the will of Archbishop Harsnett, February
I -^th, 1 630-1, which gave suitable directions for the proper
fa'stening of his brass in Chigwell Church, Essex.

In the period of the Civil War and Commonwealth
brasses fared badly. - The Journal of William Dowsing,

I The Churchwardens' Accounts of St. Thomas the Martyr, Salisbury,
reveal a similar transaction at the rate of 18.. the hundred.
^Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., Part I., p. cxxi.

3 See Appendix. . , . o

\See " Horsell Church," by Thomas Milbourn, Architect, Surrey
Archaologicd Collections, V*ol. VII., 1880, p. 152.
5 Introduction, p. ccliii.

INTRODUCTION 31

" of Stratford, Parliamentary Visitor appointed under a
"warrant from the Earl of Manchester for demolishing
" the superstitious Pictures and Ornaments of Churches,
" etc., within the County of SuiFolk in the Years 1643 and
" 1 644," ^ shows us what damage that pestilent fanatic
wrought in one county. His attention seems to have been
specially directed against inscriptions of the "ora pro nobis "
type, and the comely elevation of the altar above the level
of the body of the church seems to have been a great offence
in his eyes : —

"Alhallows, Sudbury, Jan. the 9**^ [1643]. We brake
" about twenty superstitious pictures and took up thirty
"brazen superstitious inscriptions, ' ora pro nobis' and
" * Pray for the soul,' etc.

At Orford, January 2 5th : « Eleven popish inscriptions
in brass."

_ At Wetherden, February 5th : " there was taken up
nmeteen superstitious inscriptions that weighed sixty-five
pounds." ^

In all nearly two hundred brass inscriptions must have
been subjected to the rigour of his intolerance.^

Other instances could be multiplied. The Church-
wardens of St. Margaret's, Westminster, in 1644, received
13J. 6^. "for 29 pound of fine brass at 4^. a pound
and 96 pound of coarse brasse at 3^. a pound taken off
trom sundrie tombe-stones in the Church." At Christ-
church, m Hampshire, March 30th, 1657, the Church-
wardens were ordered to " deliver unto Mrs. Hildesley
or her Assignes one Marble Stone, now lying in the East
end of the church being loose."

The cathedral churches suffered much during the

^ See "A true copy of a Manuscript found in the library of Mr
DoTst?rn\f r"^" FatherTwill^f^

lo tTuHdinr^ t'lP'' ^'^"'^ D-;t?Sb^.'triibt iV

32 INTRODUCTION

seventeenth century. At Lincoln, where but one small
brass, engraved with a coat of arms, remains, in 1 7 1 8 we
find Browne Willis counting 207 " gravestones that had
been stript of their brasses ; " though, fortunately, Gough
adds,' "the better half of them preserved in Bishop
Sanderson's MS. account of the monuments there, and
printed in Peck's Desiderata Curiosa" Durham has been
thrice despoiled. First, under the authority of Dean
Whittingham, 1563-79, who "defaced all such stones as
had any picture of brass or other imagery work."
Secondly, by the Scots in 1640. Thirdly, by the destruc-
tion of the Chapter House in 1799.'

In the eighteenth century, not infrequently, the clergy,
when non-resident, left the care of the church fabric in
the hands of ignorant local agents and churchwardens,
whose contempt for anything inexplicable by them, must
have greatly aided the disappearance of brasses by more
or less dishonourable means. Gough writes — "In the
" body of York Cathedral, of an hundred and thirteen
" epitaphs, not twenty were left at the time of new paving,
" 1734, and half of these were cut in stone, which plainly
"proves that the poor lucre of the brass was the great
" motive to the defacing these venerable remains of an-
"tiquity. Of fifty-two epitaphs in the church, which
" Mr. Drake gives, near thirty were entire and legible
" before the above paving, being preserved by the doors
" being kept shut." A like fate befel the brasses^ at
Hereford at the hands of workmen engaged in repairing
the west front. The following quotation shows what
happened at King's Lynn : —

I Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., Part I., p. cxx.

""See V 339» Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. II.;
pp. 338-42, Durham Cathedral: An Account of the Lost Brasses, by R. A. S.
Macalister and H. Eardley Field.

3 Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., Part I., p. cxx.

4 See Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. II., p. 57- "A
list of Brasses existing in the Churches of St. Margaret and St. Nicholas,
King's Lynn, in the year 1724," by E. M. Beloe, junr.

INTRODUCTION

33

" 17th lune, 1742 : resolved that eighteenpence be paid
to the contractors for every grave stone they have
taken up."

1 6th May, 1746, "it was ordered that the old Brass
and old Iron be immediately sold by the Churchwardens."

From the same place the fine Flemish brass of Robert
Attelath and lohanna his wife {^see p. 49) was taken
some time before 18 13, and sold to a brassfounder for five
shillings.

In the collection of impressions made by Craven Ord
and now in the British Museum, is one of a knight (Sir
Miles Stapleton, c. 1400) from Ingham Church, Norfolk.^
Cotman says "In 1800 the chancel at Ingham was
" completely swept of all its beautiful memorials of the
" Stapleton family. They were sold as old metal, and it
"was commonly reported by whom they were sold and
" bought ; but nobody sought to recover them : neither
"mmister nor churchwarden cared for any of those things "
A similar fate overtook the brasses at Sheepy Magna
Leicestershire, in 1778. It is not uncommon to find de-
spoiled slabs used again, without compunction, as tomb-
stones, as at Christchurch, Hants. Probably, in course of
time many slabs will be discovered to have been turned
over, in some cases, even, retaining their brasses. Amon^
the uses to which brasses have been put may be mentioned
the following :-At Meopham, Kent,3 they were added to
the metal of the bells when these were recast. At Luton
^eds, they were melted down, to make a chandelier. At
Koyston, Herts, an inscription was found employed as a
door-scraper. ^ ^

The revival of interest in brasses, which has taken place

c2c^rstT\x m'TT ^-^^f^^-'t^ ^-ociatlon of Brass

^^'^T^^^^^ '^^'^ ^^^^''-^ - Norfolk,

^See Cough's Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., Part I., p. cxx.

34

INTRODUCTION

during the nineteenth century, has led in many parts of
the country to the exercise of an intelligent care for the
well-being of these monuments. But, in spite of good
work done, there are only too many instances to record of
irreparable damage wrought by deliberate dishonesty, by
ignorant carelessness, or by an injudicious and misdirected
zeal. Losses by theft have been far too frequent/ In
1857 the important brasses at Oulton, Suffolk, were
stolen. In August, 1 8 8 9, two of the Washington brasses
were stolen from Sulgrave Church, Northants.^ At
Wicken, Cambs., the effigy of John Peyton, c. 1520, was
taken, the thief fortunately leaving the inscription. _

The mania for restoration, consequent on the revival ot
Gothic architecture in the middle of the century, and the
demolition of churches have contributed their share to the
causes of the mutilation and disappearance of brasses.
The GifFard brass suffered severely when the church ot
Bowers Giffard, Essex, was rebuilt in 1830. The brasses
in St. Mary Magdalene, Canterbury, were lost when that
church was pulled down in 1871 ; those at Chipping
Norton, Oxon, have been much disturbed and shame-
fully treated.3 At St. John's College, Cambridge, a brass
from the old chapel is now fixed to the wall in the new
building; the slab from which it was taken lying ex-
posed to the weather in the court. In several churches
alterations have been made detrimental to the objects of

I When such occur the Incumbent should make every effort in his
power to recover the Church property, as becomes " a good steward
This we fear, in some cases, has not been done. We have seen it stated
;ha bra ses are sold for large sums in America, a fact that reflects nothmg
but dishonour on the parties to such sordid and questionable proceedmgs
™s hou"d set the clergy and their officials on their guard; the loss of
a brass should be made an occasion for the exercise of archidiaconal
functions. . .

^See the correspondence in the Standard newspaper, beginning in
August and continuing throughout September, 1889.

3 W the Rev H. W. Macklin's List, in the Transactions of the Cambridge
UniversUyLdation of Brass Collectors, No. VII., February, 1900, P- H-

INTRODUCTION ^5

our care, such as the removal of portions of monuments
the concealing of brasses under organs, pews, or stoves'
and the unscholarly, and truly feminine desire for uni-
formity of pavement and for general, so-called, tidiness,
including frequently much ecclesiastical upholstery. We
may hope that these exhibitions of bad taste are not on
the increase. It would be unreasonable to demand the
same high level of intelligence from all the clergy; but
where such lapses occur, quis custodiet custodes?

We have, however, much cause to be thankful that
several discoveries have been made, leading to the restora-
tion of brasses to their churches, or to the removal of the
obstructions that have concealed them. A notable example
is that of the brass of Bishop Bell, of Worcester (d. icr6)
in St. James's, Clerkenwell. On the destruction of the
old church in 1788, the brass was sold, coming into the
possession of Richard Gough, the antiquary, and later of
Mr J. B. Nichols, till, in 1884, it was placed on the wall
ot the present church at the expense of the late Mr. Stephen
Tucker, Somerset Herald. The discovery at Roding in
Essex, of the Borrell brass, long lost from Broxbourne,
Herts, led to its return. At Aldermaston, Berks, three
brasses were found beneath the floor of the Forster chapel
A hne mihtary effigy, 1408, was discovered in 1804'
beneath pews in Otterden Church, Kent.

We must not leave unnoticed the practice that has
grown of late years, usually during the "restoration" of
a church, of taking a brass from its slab on the floor and
placing It against the wall. This seems to us justifiable
only in extreme cases, in which it is the sole means of
preserving brasses, and in that of "palimpsests" (see p. 41)

lould no^b 'T'''^' monument, tnd

should not be separated. Together, and in their or ginal
position and state,^ they often form valuable histoHcal

r:r^r:-.^i:::.X "-LetrellT^ of architecture or of archaeological

weight with'the ' °^

36

INTRODUCTION

evidence. The Purbeck marble, frequently, is very
beautiful, forming a fine setting and background for the
metal plate ; indeed, the position of the brass on the slab
is the result of design. It is, therefore, well-nigh as un-
reasonable to remove a brass from its original slab, as it
would be considered to cut out the background of a
portrait, leaving only the figure intact. Moreover, the
fixing of a brass on the wall often leads to the disappear-
ance of the slab, and to the impossibility of finding the
original site of the brass. But if removal to the wall has
become indispensable, the whole monument should, with
the utmost care to prevent damage, be taken up and fixed
in the wall ; for a brass, if fastened to the plaster, may be
injured by corrosion from the lime. At Cheriton, Kent,
a small slab has been placed in the floor to indicate the
original site of a brass, removed to the wall.

But it seems to us that there are few churches in which
the space, occupied by the brasses in their position on the
floor, cannot, with a little consideration, be spared to
them ; to say nothing of a sentiment of reverence, pro-
ducing a disinclination to disturb a tomb. Besides which
we know that mural brasses were not in general use before
the sixteenth century, and should be careful not to be
guilty of a kind of anachronism in dealing with those of
an earlier date. The preservation of the brass with its
slab can easily be secured, and at much less expense than
by its removal to the wall— by placing a rope-rail round
it or even by covering it with a piece of matting or carpet ;
though, in the case of the adoption of the latter expedient,
the dust that accumulates beneath the covering should be
frequently and regularly removed.

If placed on the wall, a brass should be fixed at no
great distance from the ground. When fastened at a
height like that of the Beauchamp brass at Warwick, or,
in a less degree, like the brass at Aldborough, near
Boroughbridge, Yorkshire, great difficulty is experienced
in examining it at all thoroughly, and, as a memorial, its
value is obviously decreased.

INTRODUCTION

37

Before passing to the consideration of " Palimpsests,"
we may mention that several restorations have been carried
out with much care and ability during the nineteenth cen-
tury by the Messrs. Waller and others. A good example
is furnished by Winchester College Chapel, where the
brasses, the originals of which disappeared in 1877, faith-
fully reproduced from rubbings, were laid down in 1882,
at the expense and under the supervision of Dr. Fresh-
iield.

The term ''Palimpsest^' ' first employed for this purpose palimpsest
by the late Mr. Albert Way, has become so generally ^^^^^^^
used of a brass appropriated for other than the person
originally commemorated, that it might appear pedantic
to discard it. At the same time, strictly speaking, its use
is only justifiable in the case of very few and exceptional
monuments. Terms such as " retroscript^' " rescript^' " re-
-versed;' ''adapted,'' seem better suited accurately to describe
the condition of the brass ; but for our present purpose
we will retain the word " Palimpsest," contenting ourselves
with pointing out where the term is applied more or less
loosely.

Three classes of Palimpsest may be said to exist :— ^ Three classes

I. In which the brass plate, turned over, is re-engraved ^'p'""^^''"'
and again laid down.

'"iraXif^xprtfTTOQ (i^^w) scratched or scraped again ; usually of parch-
ment from which one writing has been erased to make room for another "

LiIDDELL AND ScOTT.

^The best authority on this subject is, « A List of Palimpsest Brasses
compiled by Mill Stephenson, F.S.A.," in Vol. IV. of theXlf/ ^^

-thi^r '''u Appropriated and converted brasses. B. Brasses

-dS oTeZv C'' ^T'-^^'^S^ ^^^g""--' inscriptions, etc

either of English or foreign workmanship. This class mav he .nb
divided into three heads : (i) Wasters froS. the workshop ^'(.)%p'u

country. (3) Imported plate and spo from the destrurtinn nf f-K«
"religious houses in the Low Countries » P .26 Vol TV t .
^/Monun^enfat Brass Society (Part 8, Oct ber, 1903). ^^"^ ^'^^'^'''^""^

38

INTRODUCTION

2. In which the original engraving is altered, without
reversing the plate.

3. In which the original effigy is appropriated either
entirely or in part, a new inscription replacing the true one.

Cases are known in which two or even three of these
classes are represented in one monument.

(1) Of the first class many examples are known, and
probably many more will be discovered as from time to
time brasses become unfixed from their slabs. Sometimes
we find the whole original memorial reversed, as in the
case of that of Amphillis Peckham, 1545, at Denham,
Bucks, in which a fifteenth-century effigy, representing
John Pyke, probably a schoolmaster, an inscription to his
memory, and a shield have, all three, been reversed to
form a memorial for that lady.' In other cases part only
of the original is used, or the whole of the original forms
a part of a later memorial, as at Denchworth, Berks, where
the reverse of the inscription below the effigies of William
Hyde, 1557, and wife, records the laying of the founda-
tion-stone of Bisham Priory by Edward III. {see p. 21);
or the figure is mutilated to suit the outline of the usurp-
ing effigy, as at Fryerning, Essex, c. 1560; or the later
brass is made up of pieces of others, frequently of Flemish
design,^ in which case it is often difficult to decide whether
the fragments are parts of memorials, once in proper
position, or merely the waste from the engraver's work-
shop. A good example of a brass composed from pieces
of others, probably brought from Bury St. Edmund's
Abbey, is that of Margaret Bulstrode, 1540, at Hedgerley,
Bucks. Another is to be seen at St. Lawrence's, Reading,
composed of portions of that of Sir John Popham, 1463.

(2) Examples of the second class are rare, in spite of
the fact that it is the only one which can be said to affi^rd

1 Illustrated in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries y 2nd Series,
Vol. XV.

2 For Flemish palimpsest fragments, see below, p. 44.

INTRODUCTION

39

a sufficient analogy to the palimpsest manuscript, to make
the use of the term a scholarly one. The best instance is
that at Waterpery, Oxon (Walter Curzon, Esq., and wife,
1527), in which the details of the armour have been altered
to suit the fashion of a period nearly a hundred years later
than that of the original brass. ^ Another interesting
specimen, now practically destroyed, was that at Okeover,
Staffs, to Humphrey Oker, Esq. (1538), his wife and
children ; curious, moreover, as belonging to all three
classes. The brass appears to have been that of William,
Lord Zouch, and his two wives (c. 1447), beneath a triple
canopy. The central figure was altered by the addition of
a tabard over the plate armour ; the figure of one Lady
Zouch left untouched (class 3) to represent Oker's wife ;
that of the other reversed and engraved with figures of
the children and arms of the appropriator ; whilst other
shields were inserted in the canopy.^ At Chalfont St.
Peter, Bucks, is the effigy of a priest, c. 1440. This has
been altered by shading and by rounding the pointed toes,
and furnished with a fresh inscription attributing the
memorial to Robert Hanson, vicar of that place and of
Little Missenden, who died 1545.

(3) The third class, in which the original brass is adapted
with as little expense as credit to the requirements of a
later monument, by merely adding a new inscription in

^ See Haines' Introduction, p. xlviii, *' In the male figure a new head
" and shoulders have been substituted for the original ; a skirt of plate
" armour has been altered into mail, the plates in front of the armpits have
"been partially erased, additional defences placed over the breastplate,
** gussets of mail added at the insteps, the pointed toes rounded, and the
various edges of the armour invecked and shaded : in the lady's figure
the upper half is a fresh plate, or the old one reversed ; the lower half
engraving of the original brass, altered by the addition of
shading and an ornament suspended by a chain."

=^5^^ illustrations in the Portfolio of the Oxford University Brass-Rubbing
Society, Part I., February, 1898, and in the Portfolio of the Monumental Brass
Society, Vol. I.

40

INTRODUCTION

place of the old, is represented by several examples. At
Bromham, Beds, the brass, attributed to Thomas Widville,
1435, two wives, was, by the substitution of a

different inscription, used to commemorate Sir John Dyve,
1535, with his mother and wife. Among other instances
we may mention the Dalison brass at Laughton, Lines
{c. 1400 and 1549), and the Wybarne brass at Ticehurst,
Sussex {c. 1370 and 15 10). A curious case of adaptation
occurs at Hampsthwaite, near Ripley, W. Yorks, where
the small brass of a civilian of the fourteeth century has
been converted to the use of another some two hundred
years later, by the simple expedient of cutting an inscrip-
tion across the figure, " Prayse god for ye | soule of Ad
dyxon | Uncle to | vycar | dyxon | Aug 18 | 1570."

The chief cause of the existence of these so-called
Palimpsest brasses was, undoubtedly, the spoliation con-
sequent on the suppression of the monasteries. This is
sufficiently proved by the fact that the greater part of the
obverse figures or inscriptions belong to the sixteenth
century, and that they disclose when reversed older en-
gravings, which may be taken for genuine memorials torn
from their original positions. " Palimpsests " previous in
date to the Dissolution are uncommon, and, when they
occur, must be attributed either to dishonesty or to errors
in workmanship, the latter explanation probably being
correct, when the two engravings are of about the same
date. An example may be seen at St. Albans, where part
of the figure of an abbot, attributed to John de la Moote,
c. 1400, shows, when ireversed, the lower half of a female
figure with a dog at the feet. At the Temple Church,
Bristol, is the figure of a priest vested in cassock, surplice,
and cope, c. 1460, the reverse of which reveals the figure
of a widow of similar date. In St. Margaret's, Rochester,
the half-length figure of Thomas Cod, Vicar, 1465, vested
in cassock, surplice, amice, and cope, when reversed shows
a figure similarly vested, with the exception that an almuce
takes the place of the amice. This alteration probably was

INTRODUCTION

41

effected soon after his death, if not before that event.
But the most remarkable example of alteration is that at
Burwell, Cambridgeshire, in the brass, commemorating in
all probability, John Laurence de Wardeboys, last Abbot of
Ramsey, Hunts (i 508-1 539, died 1 542), He was origin-
ally represented, probably during his lifetime and under
his own supervision, in full vestments befitting his rank,
the lower part of the figure revealing these when reversed.
But owing, very possibly, to prudential reasons, either by
his directions or those of his executors, the figure was
altered to that of a canon in cassock, surplice, and almuce,
the upper part of the figure being engraved on a new
plate, since the old piece |must have been unsuitable for
turning owing to the mitre and other differences of
costume affecting the outline. A fine triple canopy
originally completed the design, but of this only the
central pediment remains, on the reverse of which por-
tions of an early engraving (c. 1320?) are found, ap-
parently representing a deacon, vested in amice, dalmatic
and maniple.

Occasionally a brass may be suspected of being palimp-
sest, if it is a thick piece of metal, whilst its date is later
than the first quarter of the sixteenth century, since the
later sheets of brass used were thin and very inferior in
quality to those of a former period. When found to be
palimpsest a brass should not be fixed either on its slab
or on the wall, so as to prevent the reverse from being
seen, but should be fastened by means of screws, or placed
in a hinged frame, in order to make it accessible for in-
spection. ^ This may appear a violation of what we have
already laid down as to the undesirability of unfastening
brasses from their slabs; but in the case of paHmpsests
it seems but a tardy act of justice to the person originally
commemorated. Indeed, could we be sure that they
would receive skilful and harmless treatment in the
process, we should hail a systematic examination of
the reverse of every brass and slab in the kingdom. For
thereby much valuable information would be gained, and

42

INTRODUCTION

any doubts as to the palimpsest nature of a brass finally
set at rest.' ^

braS estimate with any degree of accuracy all the influ-

ences which continental art may have exercised over
English brass engraving would be no easy task. But we
are fortunate in possessing in England some specimens of
a style which is as superior to as it is difl^erent from the
ordinary work of the English school. This style, from
the position of similar work in Europe, is known as that
of the Flemish school — and, as from its marked charac-
teristics it is^ easily recognized, we are able to attribute to
it, with certainty, a few brasses now existing in this country.
Belonging to the fourteenth century, and, in England,
speaking broadly, attributable to the reign of Edward III.,
they illustrate in a signal way, and form a most appropriate
accompaniment to the most beautiful, as, indeed, the most
ornate, period of Gothic architecture, constituting a series
of designs of remarkable richness, ere the fifteenth century
ushered in the Perpendicular style. In enumerating these
Flemish brasses it is more than ever necessary to bear in
mind that the date given on the brass, though doubtless a
trustworthy genealogical statement, is at the same time but
an approximate date to which the engraving of the work
may be attributed. The style of treatment is the surest
guide. For the practice, instances of which occur in all
ages, of the person commemorated personally superin-
tending the execution of his memorial, is sufficient indica-
tion that in many cases the date on the brass itself cannot

List of identified with that of its engraving.

those in The examples of this school in this country are as

England, foUowS ^ !—

^ Mr. Mill Stephenson's List of Palimpsest Brasses, already referred to,
gives a detailed account of all brasses of this nature known to exist in
England, up to the date of publication.

2 The brass of Robert Attelath, and wife, 1 376, stolen from King's Lynn
at the beginning of the nineteenth century, was a good example of this
class. It is possible that the fine brass at Higham Ferrers, Northants
(Laurence de St. Maur, 1337), is of foreign work. Bishop Beaumont's
brass at Durham, of which the matrix survives, was similar in style.

Century

INTRODUCTION

43

Fourteenth century : —

Sir Hugh Hastings, Elsing, Norfolk - 1347

Adam deWalsokne, and wife, St. Margaret's,

King's Lynn ----- 1349

Robert Braunche, and two wives, in the

same church - - - - - 1364

Alan Fleming, Newark, Notts - - - 1361

Abbot Thomas Delamere, St. Albans'
Abbey, dated 1396, but probably en-
graved - - - - - -^r. 1360

Priest in mass vestments, called Sir Simon

de Wenslagh, Wensley, Yorkshire - ^. 1360

Priest in mass vestments, Thomas de

Horton, North Mimms, Herts- - c. 1360

Ralph de Knevynton, Aveley, Essex - 1370

Thomas de TopclifF, and wife, Topcliffe,

near Thirsk, Yorkshire - - - 1391

A fragment of a large brass, representing
an abbot, formerly in the possession
of the late Mr. Pugin, but now in the
British Museum ; which Boutell sup-
posed might be that of Michael de
Mentmore, Abbot of St. Albans,' who
died 1342 - - - - - c. 1350

Here it will not be out of place to mention some brasses Some fine
of the same school on the Continent, to which reference
will be made below ^ : — ^''^'"^ "

^ But see "The Brasses and Indents in St. Albans' Abbey," by William
Page, F.S.A., p. 12 (reprinted from the Home Counties Magazine, Vol. I.,
1899). "But Mr. Mill Stephenson has ascertained that Mr. Pugin
" obtained his brass from abroad, it is therefore improbable that it could
" have come from St Albans' Abbey."

2 Reproductions of these brasses are in Creeny's book of Facsimiles of
Monumental Brasses on the Continent of Europe, 1884, folio. The brass of
St. Henry of Finland (Bishop of Upsala, d. c. 1 158), representing him in
pontificals, at Nousis in South Finland, is a fine example of Flemish work
of the next (fifteenth century). It will be found illustrated in Proceedings
of the Cambridge Antiquarian Society, Vol. X., p. 215 (No. iii., 1903)

44

INTRODUCTION

13^9

King Eric Menved and Queen Ingeborg
of Denmark, at Ringstead, in Zea-
land - - - _ _ _

Bishops Ludolph and Henry de Bulowe,

at Schwerin, in Mecklinburg - 1339, 1347
Bishops Godfrey and Frederic de Bulowe,

at Schwerin - - - -131 4, 137^
Burchard de Serken and lohn de Mul, at

Liibeck - - _ _ _ j^ij, 1350
Albert Hovener, in the Church of St.

Nicholas, Stralsund - - - 1357
Johan von Zoest and wife, at Thorn, in

Prussian Poland- - - - 1361
John de Heere, and Gerard de Heere, at

Brussels ----- 1332, 1398

Flemish These seven brasses may well be considered the finest
palimpsests -^^ existcncc, and form the best examples of the Flemish
school. It is to be noticed that they all belong to the
fourteenth century, the period which gave us the finest
Gothic architecture and for its appropriate concomitant
the finest brass-engraving.

Several palimpsest brasses are known, the reverse sides
of which show portions of Flemish work. Waller finds
a cause for this in those events in Flanders, following
"the establishment of the league of the Gueux in 1566,
"when so large a number of churches in Brabant and
" Hainault were completely ravaged." ^ For it is remark-
able that the greater part of these remains occurs on the
reverse of brasses of the latter part of the sixteenth cen-
tury. It is probable, moreover, that in addition to pieces
sacrilegiously torn from tombs, many spoiled plates were
imported into this country from the Continent. Such

" The Sepulchral Brass of St. Henry of Finland," by Dr. M. R. James,
and also in the Portfolio of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. II., plates
35-8. Dr. James' paper is reprinted in the Transactions of the latter
society. Vol. IV., p. 336.

^ J Series of Monumental Brasses, Introduction, p. ix.

INTRODUCTION

45

may be the case at Topcliffe, where the reverse of the
Flemish brass (1391), when removed from its slab, was
found to be engraved. An early example of a Flemish
palimpsest occurs at Great Bowden, Leicestershire. On
the reverse of an inscription to William Wolstonton, 1403,
rector, is an engraving of a civilian, c. 1350. Waller
mentions ^ that a fragment found in Leicestershire proved
to be a piece of a fine brass at Stralsund. Of fourteenth
century Flemish work paHmpsests exist at, amongst other
places^: — Ewelme, Oxon. (1494); Tolleshunt Darcy,
Essex, c. 1375, where the obverse and reverse are portions
of ornate Flemish borders, similar in treatment to the
palimpsest at Margate (1582); Sail, Norfolk {c. 1480);
Winestead, E. Yorks (c. 1540) ; Pottesgrove, Beds (1563) ;
Cookham, Berks (1577); Wardour Castle, Wilts, on the
reverse of memorials of the Arundell family (1573 to
1586), removed from Mawgan, in Cornwall; Constantine,
Cornwall (1574) ; Isleworth (1544) ; Harrow (1574) ; and
Pinner (1580), Middlesex. Of the fifteenth century at
Hadleigh, Suffolk (1555); Yealmpton, Devon (1580);
Aveley (1584); Stondon Massey (1573), Essex ; Camber-
well, Surrey (1582); Walkern, Herts (1583). Of the
sixteenth century at Aylesford, Kent (1545); St. Peter
Mancroft, Norwich (1568) ; St. Peter-in-the-East, Oxford
(1574); Paston, Norfolk (1596).

The presence on some of these brasses of fragments of
inscriptions ; as at Harrow and Margate, " Int Jaer +
ons + heren " (in the year of our Lord) ; at Constantine
" bidt • voer . die • ciel " (pray for the soul) ; ^ and at
Pinner Hier + Licht " proves that they were never in-

^ The same, p, xii.

* These fragments present similar characteristics to the brasses described
below. They are dealt with in Mr. Mill Stephenson's List, referred to
above. The dates, given in the text, are those of the obverse sides
of the brasses.

3 For similar inscription existing at Topcliffe, see Waller's Series of
Monumental Brasses, p. ix.

46

INTRODUCTION

tended for English memorials, nor laid down as such in
this country, but merely imported to be re-engraved.
Deiamere Among the illustrations will be found one of the brass

described

of Abbot Deiamere in St. Albans' Abbey, considered by
many the finest brass in England. The following descrip-
tion will furnish most of the characteristics which dis-
tinguish this class from the ordinary brass memorials in
this country. Originally on a large marble slab in the
choir, easily distinguished by its quadrilateral matrix, this
brass now lies on a wooden frame, placed on the slab in
the chantrey of Abbot John of Wheathamstead on the
south side of the altar, in which chapel are other brasses
taken from different parts of the church. Engraved
during his lifetime (he died 1396), and probably under
his personal supervision, we have no adequate reason for
doubting that this is a thoroughly satisfactory representa-
tion of the abbot, clad in his pontificals, about the year
1360. It is well to mention the pecuharities common to
this and other works of the same school. The monument
is composed of several square pieces of brass, not shaped
to the figure or making use of the slab for background in
the ordinary English way, but joined together to make
one large rectangular plate, in this instance 9 ft. 3 in. by
4 ft. 4 in. in size. Over this plate is spread diaper work
which acts as a background to the whole, and from which
the figure and architectural details stand out, as though
in relief This diaper work, which is practically the same
as that in the Fleming brass at Newark, is very similar to
that on the Continental brasses, enumerated above, and to
the apparel of the alb and other embroidery on the Wensley
brass. In the centre of the plate is the figure of the abbot,
clad in amice, alb, stole, maniple, tunicle, dalmatic, and
chasuble.^ On his head is the mitra pretiosa ; on his hands,
which lie crossed downwards, the right hand over the left,
are jewelled gloves ; on his feet, resting on two fighting
winged dragons, embroidered sandals. On his left arm

^ For descriptions of these vestments, sec pp. 65 et seq.

ABBOT THOMAS DELAMERE, c. 1360,
St. Alban's Abbey, Herts.

c.li,]

■ i

INTRODUCTION

47

rests his pastoral staff in the crook of which is a representa-
tion of Agnus dei. The embroideries on the vestments
are very fine. Dragons occur on the apparels of amice
and alb ; leopards' heads alternate with quatrefoils on the
maniple; on the orphreys of the chasuble, and on the
mitre, as on the vestments of Bishop Burchard de Serken
at Labeck, occur medallions of heads. The method of
treating the mouth should be noticed, as it seems similarly
treated in the other brasses of this style. The effigy is
enclosed in a rich canopy of tabernacle work, in the com-
partments of which are figures and geometrical tracery, as
in an elaborate shrine, outside which on three sides we see
the diapered background continued between the architec-
tural ornament and the marginal inscription. In the centre
over the abbot's head sits Christ enthroned, two angels
standing on each side, two of whom swing censers. In
the top compartments of the side shafts sit St. Peter (dexter)
and St. Paul (sinister). Beneath St. Peter is a larger figure
of St. Alban with cross and sword ; facing whom, under
St. Paul, occurs St. Oswyn, King of Northumbria, with
crown and spear. Beneath these on each side are three
double compartments, in which the background behind the
canopies in the upper part, is made to appear " masoned."
The inner ones contain, apparently, six apostles with bare
feet, nimbus, and implement of martyrdom ; the outer
ones six prophets or Old Testament saints, shod, wearing
caps, and with labels. This difference of attire Creeny
notes as prevalent in Western art since the schism between
the Eastern and Western Churches. Between what we
may well call the shrine and the inscription the diapered
background is visible. The inscription, which was never
completed, runs as follows, in Lombardic capitals : —

HIC + JACET 4- DOMINVS + THOMAS -f- QVONDAM + ABBAS
+ HVIVS + MONESTERII,

and is preceded by a saltire, evidently referring to the
arms of the Abbey, azure, a saltire, or. At the corners
were the evangelistic symbols within quatrefoils, one of

48

INTRODUCTION

Effigy of
Abbot,
British
Museum

The Lynn
Brasses

which has disappeared. In the centre of each of two sides
within a quatrefoil, is a shield bearing on a bend three
eagles displayed. Outside the inscription runs a marginal
border of quatrefoil flowers.

Very similar in treatment, and indeed more ornate is
the fragment of an abbot's brass, now preserved in the
British Museum. Boutell's conjecture that it might be
the effigy of Michael de Mentmore, Abbot of St. Albans '
(died 1342), IS probably disproved by the fact that Pu^'n
obtained it from the Continent. Here the curious treat-
ment of the soul, a characteristic of the Flemish school is
noteworthy. Held in a sheet by the Deity, it appears as
a diminutive nude figure, in this case wearing a mitre." A
similar convention is to be seen in the Topclifl'e brass ;
whilst in the Walsokne one at King's Lynn the soul is
upheld in a sheet by two angels.

The Lynn brasses are, perhaps, our best examples of
the Flemish school, bearing, as they do, so striking a
resemblance in treatment to the Continental examples
mentioned above. Each consists of a large rectangular
sheet, composed of smaller pieces, on which is the diapered
background, and beautiful architectural work, in the manner
described above in the account of the Delamere brass.
In the Walsokne brass we have a husband and wife ; in
the Braunche a husband between two wives. The cos-
tumes of Adam de Walsokne, Robert Braunche, and Alan

^See Gough's Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., p. 96, quoting inscrip-
tion, extant in Weever's time.

* Bee Viollet le Due's Dictionnaire Raisonne de V Architecture Franfaise,
Paris, 1868, Vol. IX., p. 53, for illustration {sub mm. Tombeau) of a
similar mitred soul painted at the head of the tomb of Archbishop Pierre
de la Jugee, in Narbonne Cathedral. In the Exhibition of Pictures of
the School of Siena, held at the Burlington Fine Arts Club, 1904, was
shown a panel, belong to the Earl of Crawford and Balcarres, representing
Scenes from the lives of the Hermits of the Thebaid and the Founders of
the Religious Orders, "possibly by some Pisan follower of Pietro Loren-
zetti," in which is depicted, inter alia, "a bishop's soul held by two devils
in a boat." The little nude figure wears a mitre.

INTRODUCTION 49

Fleming are very similar; the Newark figure, however,
has slits for pockets in the cote-hardie^

It is fortunate that in the Douce collection at the British
Museum, an impression is preserved of the brass of Robert
Attelath. This fine brass was stolen early in the nine-
teenth century, owing to local unscrupulousness or igno-
rance.^* It must have much resembled the other Lynn
brasses and that at Newark. The costume is almost
identical with that of Johannes von Zoest at Thorn. A
long tunic, or cote-hardie, is fastened with many buttons
in pairs. Attached by four buttons on the right shoulder
(m the Zoest brass there are six) hangs a loose mantle or
cloak with a small hood. The under-tunic is visible at
the wrists, whence the sleeves are continued over the hand,
and are fastened by a row of small buttons. They are
finely embroidered as at Thorn. The dress is completed
by a narrow waistbelt and long pointed shoes, with buckles
The inscription, given by Gough, runs as follows :—•« Hie
"jacet Robertus Attelath, q'dam burgensis Lenne, qui obiit
;Ao Dni MCCCLXXVl! xii die mensis NovTmbris!
Orate pro eo. Hie jacet Johanna, q'dam uxor Roberti

Attelatte, que obiit A° Dni MCCC Anime eorum

per misericordiam Dei requiescant in pace. Amen "

as dso ^77^-''^^ ^1?'£ ^"^"^'^ V^^nd.y, Those at Nonh

as also that of Sir Hugh Hastings at Elsin^, differ from "^^^'^ Wen-
those mentioned above in that they are not rectangular ^^^^'^ ^""^ ^^^-^
and that the diapered background is omitted ; but their^
style IS unmistakeably Flemish.

^ In the North Mimms brass, Thomas de Horton, vicar
IS represented c ad in mass vestments, with a chalice and
paten lymg on his body below his clasped hands.3 The
^_!!!j;!!i^;^_^Jtag^_^^ a kind of bracket is

' The costume on these brasses will be found described in Chap IV

Vol.^t PIate%J;vi";nd^^' 'l^^/v /"r ^'^"^'^''^ Monuments,

J. S. do.^ "^^^^X:^ ^' It was engraved b;

thet: E^'bt.^'^'^^ -^-^ - -ssed as in

INTRODUCTION

supported by two lions addorsed, between which is a shield,
a saltire between four crosses-crosslet fitche. On this
bracket rest the bases of the shafts of the beautiful canopy
of tabernacle work, with saints in niches, and the Deity
holding the soul whilst two angels swing their thuribles.
The mutilated Elsing brass possessed a less ornate canopy,
though of great interest from the historical personages repre-
sented in the niches ; but it probably gained in enamelling
what it lacked in architectural detail. The Wensley brass
is composed of at least three pieces, forming the figure of a
priest, similar to that at North Mimms; but the embroi-
dered work is finer. The head reclines on a cushion upheld by
graceful angels, treated very similarly to the Albert HOvener
brass at Stralsund. The slab is used as background for
the brass, and originally there was a marginal inscription
with evangelistic symbols in quatrefoils at the corners.
Characteristics Bcforc leaving the fourteenth century, it were well to
of Flemish mcntion some of the characteristics which distinguish this
Flemish school of brass-engraving. We have already
noticed the rectangular shape of the plates, as in the seven
Continental instances given, and in the St. Albans', Lynn,
Newark, Aveley, and TopclifFe examples, and the excep-
tions to this shape at Wensley, North Mimms, and Elsing.
The diapered groundwork, too, has been noted, of varied
pattern, a favourite one being dragons and foliage in
trefoils. In the Walsokne diaper, butterflies and other
curious figures are introduced. The place of diaper in
the Wensley and North Mimms brasses is supplied by
the stone slabs which act as background. The architec-
tural details are strikingly similar in the various examples
of the Flemish school, taking the form of ornately taber-
nacled canopies of geometrical Gothic with side and centre
shafts, the niches filled with figures of apostles and prophets
as at St. Albans, of civilians as in the Braunche and
Fleming brasses, of members of noble families as in the
Hastings brass, of angels playing musical instruments as
at Topcliffe, or of mournful figures called "weepers."
The canopies are single or double according to the number

INTRODUCTION

51

of effigies to be represented. In the Braunche brass we
have an instance of a triple-arched canopy. An attempt
to give in perspective the vaulting of these arches is
sometimes observed, as in the Braunche brass, and in the
foreign brasses of Zoest and Heere. Sometimes the centre
shaft of the canopy is made to pierce the marginal inscrip-
tion, as on the Thornton brass, at Newcastle- on-Tyne (to
be mentioned below). The central compartment of the
canopy above the effigy is usually treated in a manner that
we may call peculiar to Flemish brasses. A venerable
figure, seated on a throne, evidently intended for the
Deity, holds in a sheet a little nude male or female figure,
representing the soul of the deceased. In the fragment in
the British Museum the little figure wears a mitre. On
either side we find angels with thuribles, as at St. Albans,
Topcliffe, and King's Lynn, or bearing candles as in the
palimpsest fragment at Wardour Castle. In the Hastings
brass at Elsing a somewhat different treatment was adopted,
the soul being held in a sheet by two angels beneath the
canopy, immediately above the knight's head, whilst above
it on brackets are figures of the Deity and the Virgin, an
angel above censing them.

In the faces of the principal figures the conventional
treatment of the mouth is noticeable. Another feature,
frequently observed, is the cushion of elaborate embroidery
placed under the head of the deceased. Those in the
Havener, Zoest, and Heere brasses bear a striking resem-
blance to those at Wensley, Newark, and King's Lynn.
These cushions are usually supported on each side, as in
the above instances, by angels, sometimes of most graceful
design, as at Wensley and Stralsund. At Topcliffe one
angel holds the cushion from above. The brass of
Archdeacon William de Rothewelle, 1361, in Rothwell
Church, Northants, shows many signs of Flemish influence
including this one of a cushion upheld by angels.^ '

J In the brass at Hever, Kent, the head of Margaret, wife of William

Trnirr^d dh°"TT '^'^'^^^^^ "PJ^eld by two angels, clad in

amice and alb. This convention is frequently found in sculptured effigies

52

INTRODUCTION

Beneath the feet a favourite design seems to have been
that of two animals addorsed, as at Wensley, North
Mimms, and in the lost Attelath brass. Another form
displays monsters fighting; winged dragons, as at St.
Albans; a lion or eagle attacking a savage man, as at
King's Lynn, Newark, and Thorn in Prussian Poland.

Between the feet of the figure and the marginal inscrip-
tion an historical or legendary scene is sometimes shown.
The famous instance of the former is what is known as
the " Peacock Feast " on the Braunche brass at King's
Lynn, representing a banquet, at which peacocks are being
served, supposed to depict the entertainment of King
Edward III.^ The same place in the Walsokne brass is
occupied by rustic scenes and fables, in which a windmill
figures. In the foreign brasses mentioned above we find
wild men or " wodehouses " feasting, in the Zoest, and
Godfrey and Frederic de Bulowe brasses ; scenes from the
life of St. Nicholas below the effigy of Bishop Burchard
de Serken, and from that of St. Eligius below that of
Johan de Mul at Liibeck ; a stag-hunt in the HOvener
brass, and a woodland scene beneath the lady's feet in the
Zoest brass.

The inscription, which is sometimes in Lombardic
characters, as at St. Albans, sometimes in black letter, as
at TopclifFe, acts as a border to the whole work, supple-
mented on the outside by a row of conventional flowers,
as in the Walsokne, Braunche, and Topcliff brasses, or by
a border of foliage, as at Newark. The corners of these
inscription-borders usually bear the Evangelistic symbols

^ An excellent description of this part of the brass is in the Surrey
Archeeolo^cal Collections, Vol. IV., 1869, pp. 285-6, in "Remarks on
Timber Houses," by Charles Baily, Architect.

In The Arts in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, by Paul Lacroix
(English edition, revised by W. Armstrong. London, Virtue, 1886), this
representation is reproduced (p. 1 1, fig. 8), where it is described as "A
" State Banquet in the Fifteenth Century, with the service of dishes
" brought in and handed round to the sound of musical instruments
" (Miniature from a MS. in the Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris)."

INTRODUCTION

53

in quatrefoils. Frequently we find the centre of each of
the two sides ornamented with a quatrefoil containing, as
in the Delamere, Braunche, and Topcliff brasses, a coat of
arms, or as at Newark, a merchant's mark.

In the Introduction to Cotman's work,' the presence of
Flemish brass work at King's Lynn is, doubtless correctly,
attributed to the intercourse with Flanders occasioned by
the wool trade. The fact of the whole plate being com-
posed of separate pieces is explained as due to the greater
facility of transport thereby obtained, and the great pre-
valence of brasses in the county of Norfolk as owing, in
great measure, to these Flemish examples.

It may, perhaps, be doubted whether the North Mimms
and Wensley brasses were originally intended for the
places which they occupy, since they seem somewhat too
ornate for memorials of parish priests, but we know so
litde of Thomas de Horton or of Simon de Wenslagh
that we are not justified in belittling their importance
during their lives. We should rather be grateful for the
fine quality of their monuments.

Of the general characteristics of this school of brass
engraving, Haines wrote ' : " The foreign brasses are dis-
" tinguished from the English by a peculiarity of engraving.
" The principal lines are broader and more boldly drawn,
" though less deeply cut, and wrought with a flat chisel-
" shaped tool, instead of the ordinary engraving burin.
" J Stippling ' or dotted shading is found on early examples ^
"in the^ folds of the drapery, bases of canopies, etc."
Except in the case of the Hastings brass we can only
conjecture to what extent these brasses were enamelled or
coloured in any way. But colour adds so greatly to the
richness of these memorials that it is reasonable to suppose
that the lines of the figure, coats of arms, etc., in several

J Engravings of the most remarkable of m Sepulchral Brasses in Norfolk
1 8 19, p. V.

2 Introduction, pp. xx-i.

3 At Wensley, for instance.

54

INTRODUCTION

instances, were filled in with enamel or some substitute
for it, and the surface burnished and polished, to produce
a splendid effect.

XV. and XVI. The following are some brasses, later in date, of Flemish
Flemish workmanship, but inferior to those mentioned above ' : —
brasses Roger Thornton and Agnes his wife, 1429, at Newcastle,

excepting palimpsests, the only example of Flemish
work of the fifteenth century in this country. Two
figures in civilian costume, their heads on cushions
supported by angels, are placed beneath fine canopies,
containing in niches figures of saints. Fourteen
children are represented below the parents under small
canopies. There is a marginal black-letter inscrip-
tion, bearing at the corners evangelistic symbols and
in the centre of each side a coat of arms.^

Thomas Pownder and wife, 1525, St. Mary Quay, Ipswich,

^ The following contract for brasses of Flemish workmanship, to com-
memorate Sir William Sandys, Knt., and Margaret, his wife, and William
Lord Sandys, formerly in the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, annexed
to Holy Ghost Chapel, Basingstoke, Hants, is taken from A History
of the Ancient Town and Manor of Basingstoke, etc., by Francis Joseph
Baigent and James Elwin Millard, 1889, pp. 158-9. "A contract for
" two tombs between Thomas Leigh, merchant, and Cornelius Herman-
" zone, acting on behalf of Lord William Sandes, with Arnold Hermanzone,
" native of Amsterdam, established at Aire in Artoise, was proved before
"a notary at Antwerp on Monday the ist March, 1536. One tomb
" was to be of Antoing stone, eight Flemish feet long, by four and a half
" broad, and four feet and a quarter high ; the slab to be inlaid with a
" copper or brass cross, of similar length, and the name of William Sans
" and Margare Sans, and dates also in brass three inches wide. On each
" side of the tomb were to be three coats of arms. The other tomb was
" to measure seven feet by four, but only the slab and sides were to be of
" Antoing stone, as the ends would join a wall ; the cross to be four feet
" long and four inches broad, and the inscription three inches. The tombs
" to be delivered at Antwerp, in all respects conformable to the design
" given, within seven months, and thence to be shipped to England ; the
" said Arnold to go over and set them up and finish them oft' properly.
" He was to receive ^^30, Flemish currency, and also the expenses of his
" maintenance during his journey and stay at Basingstoke."

2 S,ee illustration in Arckteologia Aeliana, New Series, Vol. XV.

ANDREW EVYNGAR AND WIFE ELLYN, 1535,
All Hallows' Barking, London.

[C.B.

I

INTRODUCTION

55

having merchants' marks and the arms of Ipswich
and of the Merchant Adventurers. The inscription
is in black-letter.

Margaret Svanders, 1529, Fulham, Middlesex, wife of
Gerard Hornebolt, showing half-effigy in shroud, two
angels holding the inscription. On a lozenge-shaped
plate fixed to the wall.

Andrew Evyngar, and Ellyn, his wife, 1536, All Hallows,
Barking, London. The Ipswich brass is very similar.
A merchant's mark appears at the base. At the top
on the dexter side are the arms of the Merchant
Adventurers, on the sinister those of the Salters'
Company. The classical treatment of this brass well
exemplifies the change in style forming a great
contrast to the splendid geometrical Gothic of the
fourteenth century brasses.

Boutell' classes the brass at East Sutton, Kent, 1638,
of Sir Edward Filmer, his wife and eighteen children as
Flemish, being on one large plate of metal, but without
diaper work. But this alone is no proof of Flemish origin.
Waller attributes it to foreign manufacture, as also that of
Archbishop Harsnett, 1631, Chigwell, Essex, to which he
compares it.^

Three foreign brasses are in London Museums : —

^Monumental Brasses and Slabs, 1847, p. 23.

2 See J Series of Monumental Brasses, drawn and engraved by J. G. and
L. A. B. Waller, but the instructions in the Archbishop's will, dated
Feb. 13, 1 630- 1. "My body I will to be buried within the Parrishe
" churche of Chigwell, withoute pompe or solempnitye at the foote of
" Thomazine late my beloved wief havinge only a Marble stone layde
" uppon my grave w'" a Plate of Brasse moulten into the stone an ynche
" thiclce haveinge the effigies of a Bysshoppe stamped uppon it w"' his
" Myter and Crosiers stafFe but the Brasse to be soe rivited and fastened
" cleare throughe the Stone as sacrilegious handes maye not rend off the
" one w'^o-t^ breakinge the other" (PCC. 78. St. John), would seem
to pomt to the employment of local workmen. Moreover, the Filmer
brass is signed "Ed. Marfhall sculpfit."

56 INTRODUCTION

1. Ludowic Cortewille and wife, 1504, from Cortville,

near Li%e, formerly in the Museum of Practical
Geology, Jermyn Street, but nowat South Kensington.

2. Henry Oskens, priest, 1535, originally at Nippes, near

Cologne, now at South Kensington.

3. Nicolas le Brun (Bailly de Jeumont), d. 1547, and wife,

Fran9oise du Fosset, ^.1531, in the British Museum.

Two curious Flemish palimpsest ^inscriptions exist,
(i) At Norton Disney, Lincolnshire, recording, on the re-
verse of a memorial to William Disney, 1540, his wife, and
son (1578), the foundation in 151 8 of a mass by Adrian
Adrianson and the lady Paesschine van den Steyne at the
altar of St. Cornelius. (2) At West Lavington, Wilts,
recording on the reverse of a brass to John Dauntesay,
I559> a gift to the masters of the Holy Ghost at West-
monstre, a church at Middleburgh in Walcheren, destroyed
in 1575 ; and apparently referring to the same matter and
persons as the Norton Disney inscription.'

Brasses show- Brasscs showing a French influence are rare in England.

Infl/encT^ ^^'^^ ^^^^ instance is that at Minster, Kent, in which the
costume of Sir John de Northwode and his wife, Joan de
Badlesmere, c. 1330, has many features in common with
that of French monuments, preserved to us in the pages
of Montfaucon's Monumens de la Monarchic Franfoise. The
lady's dress, in particular, resembles that worn at the
French Court during the fourteenth century.^ Another

^ See Mr. Mill Stephenson in the Transactions of the Monumental Brass
Society, Vol. IV., Part v. The Norton Disney inscription was offered by
the Rev. Dr. Disney to Gough the Antiquary, whose refusal did him much
credit. 5^-^ Gough's Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., p. cxxii. (Part i).
Other examples of palimpsest Flemish inscriptions are at Oxford, St.
Mary Magdalene (Jane Fitzherbert, 1 574), St. Peter-in-the-East (Richard
Atkinson, 1574).

2 Varieties of the same peculiarity in her dress, a kind of fur-lined tippet,
may be observed in the effigies of Jeanne de S. Veraen, d. 1 297 ; of Jeane
Reine de Navarre, wife of Philippe le Bel, d. 1304; of Marguerite de
Beaujeu, wife of Charles de Montmorency, d. 1336; of Marie de France,

INTRODUCTION

57

instance of French influence may be the brass of Margaret
de Camoys, 1310, at Trotton, Sussex, whose dress was
ornamented with nine small enamelled shields, now lost.
A similar treatment may be seen on the surcoat of William
de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, 1296, in Westminster
Abbey. The slab of Sir John de Brewys, 1426, in Wiston
Church, Sussex, is semee with scrolls, alternately bearing
the words " Jesus " and " mercy." Several examples
similarly designed are known ; and it is not unreasonable
to suppose that this very decorative treatment originated
in France. Some authorities consider the brass at Hors-
monden, Kent, to John de Grovehurst, priest, c. 1340, to
be French work.

Having now dealt with foreign brasses in England, it English brass of
will not be out of place to mention an instance of an consSnce"*
English brass on the Continent. Such is that of Robert
Hallum, Bishop of Salisbury, envoy of Henry V. to the
Council of Constance, who, dying there in 141 6, was
buried in the Cathedral. It represents the bishop in full
pontificals, beneath a canopy, with a marginal inscription
on fillet with Evangelistic symbols. It is noteworthy that
after the manner of English brasses, the metal is cut to
the shape of the figure, and is laid in a marble slab, pre-
pared to receive it. Of this method there are other
examples on the Continent, the earliest being the brass
of Bishop Bernard de Lippe, 1340, at Paderborn. At
Florence, in San Lorenzo, is the gravestone of John
Caterick, Bishop of Exeter, 14 19, with a brass marginal
inscription.^

daughter of Charles IV., ^. 1341 ; of Jeanne, wife of Philippe, Comte
dEvreux, d. 1349; -ind of Jeanne, wife of Jean d'Aragon, Due de
Crironde, d. 1373 ; all given by Montfaucon. See below, Chap. VI.

' See Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. III., p 114 but
sec Transactions of Devon Association, Vol. XVIII., 1886, p. 229 "The
Bishopric of Exeter, 1419-20 : a Contribution to the History of the See,"
by T. N. Brushfield, M.D., wherein the slab is illustrated ; is stated to
be in the Church of Santa Croce, and the inscription and shields said to
be of black marble inlaid.

58 INTRODUCTION

Note. — The following account of costume is divided
into large and distinct groups : —

A. Ecclesiastical, with a sub-branch — Academical.

B. Military.

C. Civilian, contiguous to which we have placed brasses
of Lawyers.

D. Female.

Notes on Royal In England there is one brass of a king/ a half-effigy
brasses representing Ethelred, King of the West Saxons, 872

(engraved c. 1440) at Wimborne Minster, Dorset {see
p. 17). The costume consists of a close-sleeved under-
garment, a mantle, and a cape or tippet of ermine. His
right hand is placed on his breast ; his left holds a sceptre ;
on his head is a crown. At Ringstead, in Zealand, is the
fine brass of King Eric Menved, of Denmark, and his
Queen, Ingeborg, 13 19. The king holds in his right
hand a sword, in his left a sceptre. His long cote^ over
which is a mantle, bears the arms of Denmark (or semee
of hearts gules three lions passant guardant in pale az.
crowned or). This brass is reproduced by Creeny, who
also gives the fine series of brasses ranging from 1464 to

Costume
divided into
four main
groups

^ In Lincoln Minster a brass once existed, representing Queen Eleanor,
which was placed there f. 13 10. 5^^p, 33. " The Architectural History
of Lincoln Minster," by the Rev. G. A. Poole in Transactions of the Lincoln
Diocesan Architectural Society {Associated Architectural Societies Reports and
Papers, Vol. IV., 1857-8). A small brass inscription in Peterborough
Cathedral commemorates Queen Katherine of Aragon (1536). At
Tewkesbury Abbey a brass plate marks the supposed site of the grave of
Prince Edward of Wales, killed 1471. At Sherborne, a modern brass
marks the place of burial of the Saxon kings, Ethelbald and Ethelbert.
At Malmesbury, Wilts, an inscription shows the probable site of the
interment of King Athelstan (914). In St. Martin's, Canterbury, is a
brass with inscription, composed by Bishop Claughton to commemorate
Bertha, Queen of Ethelbert, King of Kent, who is supposed to have been
baptized through her influence in 597.

ST. ETHELRED,
King of the West Saxons.

Engraved c. 1440.
WiMBORNE Minster, Dorset.

C.B.]

i

INTRODUCTION 59

1539, Ducal House of Saxony at Meissen.' At

Basle is the brass of Isabella, Duchess of Burgundy, 1450 ;
at Nymwegen that of Katharine de Bourbon, wife of
Adolphus, Duke of Gueldres, 1469; at Cleves, 1483,
that of John and Elizabeth, Duke and Duchess of Cleves.

''They are — 1464 Frederick the Good, Duke of Saxony.

i486 Ernst, Duke of Saxony.

I 500 Albert, Duke of Saxony.

1502 Ameleie, Duchess of Bavaria.

1 5 10 Sidonia, Duchess of Albert, Duke of Saxony.

I 5 10 Frederic, Duke of Saxony.

1534 Barbara, Duchess of Saxony.

' 537 John, Duke of Saxony.

1539 Frederic, Duke of Saxony.
The brass of John Ernst, Duke of Saxony, 1553, is at Coburg.

CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER I.

OF ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME ON BRASSES

In dealing with ecclesiastical vestments it is no part of
our scheme with St. Jerome ^ spiritualis intelligentice vela''
pandere, by discussing the various symbolical meanings
which have grown up round them in course of centuries.
Such meanings may be of importance from a devotional
aspect, but do not come within the scope of this book.^
Vestments cannot reasonably be considered to be either
the outcome of divine revelation, or a legacy from the
Levitical priesthood, but they represent the adaptation
of Roman civil costume to the special needs of a class,
the conservative tendencies of which have preserved for
us through many centuries, with comparatively slight
alterations, a dress of great antiquity. We do not propose
to enter into a minute discussion of the origin of these
vestments or of the constitutions of the Church regulating
their assumption. They concern us only so far as they
are represented on brasses. We are, therefore, brought
direcdy to the thirteenth century, in which we find the
earliest ecclesiastical brass known to exist, that of Bishop
Yso Wilpe, 1 2 3 1 , at Verden. Another thirteenth-century
instance is that of Bishop Otto de Brunswick, 1279,
the Cathedral of Hildesheim. We have shown above
(Introduction, p. 17) that some ecclesiastical brasses
were laid down in England during this century, but none
survive." There are but few examples left of the early
part of the fourteenth century, towards the latter part of
which they become numerous. Among these may be
mentioned the demi-figure of Richard de Hakebourne,

I Some sensible remarks on the many meanings given to vestments may
be read in Eccclenastical Vestments; their Development and History, by R A S
Macahster. London, Elliot Stock, 1896.

^ A fragment, representing St. Ethelbert, from the brass of Bishop
Cantilupe, 1282, is preserved at Hereford Cathedral.

64 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

c. 1311/ Merton College, Oxford, in the head of a floriated
cross (lost); Archbishop Grenefeld, 13 15, York Minster;
Nichol de Gore, c. 1320, Woodchurch, Kent (figure in
cross); and a Priest (head), c. 1320, Chinnor, Oxon. (in
floriated cross). With the Minor Orders, which include
osiiarius, lector^ and acolytus, we are not concerned, as they
do not occur on brasses. The Major Orders (an elabora-
tion of the three orders. Bishop, Priest, and Deacon), in
which are ranked sub-deacon, deacon, priest, bishop, and
archbishop,^ are represented chiefly by efligies of priests,
and by a small number of bishops and archbishops.

^ The brass of Adam de Bacon (?), priest, c. 13 10, was stolen from
Oulton, Suffolk, in February, 1857. It is engraved in Cotman, Boutell,
and Haines.

^ We have no brasses in England of cardinals. The crypt of Canter-
bury contains the slab which held the brass of Cardinal John Morton ( 1 5 00),
in which is the indent of his Hat. At Cues is the brass of Cardinal
Cusanos, 1464; at Cracow that of Cardinal Cazmiri, Archbishop of
Gnesen, 1493 {see Creeny). At Great Berkhampstead, Herts, is a palimp-
sest brass, the reverse of which commemorates Thomas Humfre, goldsmith
of London, and Joan, his wife, c. 1500. The initial letter O of the in-
scription contains the seated figure of St. Jerome attired as a cardinal,
holding a cross-staff in the right hand. William Whappelode (1446), on
his brass at Chalfont St. Peter, Bucks, is described as Seneschalliis domus to
Henry, Cardinal of England and Bishop of Winchester. At Carshalton,
Surrey, was the brass of Thomas Ellenbridge, Esq., 1497, hostiarius to
Cardinal Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury. His will is printed in
The Reliquary, Vol. XXI., 1 880-1, p. 196: "The Will of Thomas
Elyngbrigge, of Carshalton, co. Surrey, Esq., a.d. 1497. P.C.C. 15
Horne," by Robert Garraway Rice. On the palimpsest inscription lost
from the brass of John Marsham, 1525, and wife, St. John Maddermarket,
Norwich, was a request for the prayers of the faithful, ending " xii
" Cardinals have granted you xii"^ dayes of Pardon." On the pardon
brass of Roger Legh (1506) and Elizabeth his wife (1499), Macclesfield,
Cheshire, St. Gregory is represented kneeling before an altar, on which
stands a chalice with a missal, and wearing a triple crown, and a chasuble
with cruciform orphreys on front and back. This subject is well shown
in the little triptych La messe de St. Gregoire, by Hans Memling (1435-
1495), formerly in the Huybrechts Collection (illustrated in The Con-
noisseur, Vol. IV., p. 20, September, 1902). See also a piece of sculpture
at Stoke Charity, Hants (illustrated in Journal of the British Archaolo^cal
Association, Vol. V., 1850, p. 258, "On certain Church Brasses in
Cheshire and Lancashire," by J. G. Waller).

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 65

Brasses of the monastic orders, monk and nun, prior and
prioress, abbot and abbess, form a small but important
class, after which we have to consider some other forms of
clerical habit, and academical costume as it is represented
in brasses, principally in the college chapels of Oxford and
Cambridge, a subject closely connected with that of the
costume of the clergy.

Ecclesiastical Vestments may be divided into two main
groups : —

1. Mass (sometimes called eucharistic) to which the term
vestment pre-eminently belongs.

2. Processional (a rather loose title).

The Mass Vestments, as their title implies, were worn
at mass time. They were put on in the following order,
a short prayer being said with each : —

I. Amice {amictus, anaholagium^ epomis^ humerale, super-
humerale), of mediaeval origin, intended primarily for
a , hood, was a rectangular piece of linen (about 36 in.
by 25 in.) with an apparel,^ sewn along one edge, and
a cross embroidered in the centre. Being placed for
a moment on the head, it was then lowered to the
neck, to which the apparel, resting on the shoulders,
afforded a kind of loose collar, to the ends of which
strings were attached, which, carried under the arms,
crossed on the back, and tied in front, kept the vest-
ment in position. The amice appears constantly on
brasses, and must not be confused with the almuce,
amys, or amess, a kind of fur cape (described below^

^ Apparel {parura, etc., tarare) is the name given to the strips of em-
broidery, often of great elaboration and enriched with jewels, adornine
the amice and alb. The term is used, apparently, only of the decoration

^re sLn V^" 'T- ^^^^ P'"'^"' "^"^^ ^^"^^y of ornament, and

are seen at the wrists and in front at the foot of the alb.

Phrvlir'"' ^'''''f'^^^P^m^o, an embroiderer in gold, for which art the
Phrygians were famous) : term applied to the narrow strips of embroidery
on other vestments, such as the chasuble and cope ^

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

p. 86) ; a mistake rendered easy by the similar
sounding of the words.

Alb {alha^ tunica alba, aroiyapiov). The ancestor of the
alb and of its apparels would seem to have been the
tunica talaris of the Romans with its lati clavi for
senators, and angusti clavi for equites. This garment
was long and loose ; being originally sleeveless, it was
called colobium, but afterwards becoming sleeved, was
known as tunica manicata or dalmatica, which latter
variety seems to have been established for ecclesiastics
instead of the former in the fourth century. The
alb being inconveniently loose for baptisms, a close-
fitting variety came into use, which is the mediaeval
alb known to us on brasses. The ecclesiastical dal-
matic and tunicle, to be described below (pp. 72-3), are
probably derived from the loose variety. The alb,
as we know it, is a long, close-fitting vestment reach-
ing to the feet, usually of white linen, though occa-
sionally coloured or of more costly material. Passed
over the head, it is fastened round the waist by a
girdle or cord [haltheus, zona, cingulum). But, as the
alb is drawn through the girdle, so as to obscure it,
the latter is not seen on brasses, though its presence
is evident, where the crossing of the stole is visible,
as at Horsham, Sussex, 141 1, and Upwell, Norfolk,
1435. The alb is decorated with six pieces of em-
broidery, which are possibly the remains of the clavi
(purple bands), and segmenta or callicuU on the
tunica talaris. These apparels are placed one on the
back, one on the breast, one on each wrist, and on
the lower skirt of the garment in front and behind.
They were either sewn on the alb, or attached to it
by strings, thereby causing less injury to the embroi-
dery when removed for the necessary washing of the
vestment.

Stole (orarium, k-rriTpayjiXiovy Mpapiov) originally a napkin
or scarf for wiping the face (w), which was worn outside

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 67

the outer cloak {pallium), thereby rendering the de-
rivation of the shape from the clavi of the tunica
improbable. The ovarium seems to have become a
mark of distinction or favour, the use of which as
such by the Roman people was first granted by
Aurelian ; indeed, the archiepiscopal pall may be
be derived from a like distinction. Since the seventh
century the stole has been worn in the Western
Church by priests round the neck, crossed on the
breast and passed beneath the girdle ; ' by deacons
over the left shoulder. It consists of a long strip of
silk, embroidered throughout, nine or ten feet long,
and two or three inches wide. Originally of equal
width throughout, this has varied from time to time.
The ends are fringed. Nowadays, in the middle and
at each extremity a cross is embroidered; though,
from the evidence afforded by brasses, the terminal
cross does not appear to have been by any means
obligatory.^ Being worn beneath the chasuble, usually
only the fringed ends are visible, which fact may have

_ Bishops are said to wear it not crossed (an accessible example is shown
in the painting by Jacopo da Empoli (1554-1640) of San Zenobio re-

V'^.^^'v Gallery. The stole passes

beneath the girdle of the alb, and is worn with a cope and mitre) f but
instances of bishops with crossed stoles are known : a small figure of
uI^ Z brass of Ralph, Lord Cromwell (1455), Tattershall,

Lines, IS vested m cope and crossed stole. A wood-carving of late

an exalT. ^ NorthanTs, affords

an example, showing a bishop m alb, crossed stole, cope, and mitre

T^fr Pk'" Y }-\ specimens of Ancient Painting and Sculpture)

Assisf f °' Annunziata, Florence, Angelo Marzi, Bishop of

^r^ed^ alb^;;' ''5'"'"/''^ ^"."^^'.^^^ ^''''''''^ ^aUo, wearing
JVeatherley. Jncient Sepulchral Monuments, ^

^ Indeed, we know of no instance of the presence of crosses on stole,
m brasses, unless the so-called Fylfot-cross be so considered We W
the" ntre Thr'"^^°" ' brass) whether a cross were embroidered In
thL r f °^ t^'^s^ '^^osses is probably of late rather

InriLrutge"^ ' -'^^ to'constit'ut™;f t:

68 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

led to the concentration of ornament at the extremi-
ties. But the brasses with copes at Horsham (where
the stole is embroidered throughout) and Upwell,
mentioned above, show its arrangement ; as does that
at Sudborough, Northants (c. 1430), which gives a
figure without chasuble or cope.

4. Maniple or Fanon {mappula^ k-^yi'ipiov^ oOovriy fanon,
sudarium, manipulus)^ originally a napkin. Pope
Sylvester in the third century ordered deacons to
wear ?i pallium Unostimum on their hands. Gregory
the Great mentions a mappula. It would appear that
the use of this vestment was first confined to Rome ;
then granted to Ravenna, and so spread. The
maniple, originally of linen, was worn over the fingers
of the left hand, as seen in the figure of Archbishop
Stigand in the Bayeux tapestry; but on brasses it
has lost its original use, having become like the stole,
a piece of silk, some three feet in length, with orna-
mental embroidery and fringed ends, forming in
shape a kind of miniature stole, hung over the left
fore-arm, beneath which it is secured by a button or
hook. On the maniple, possibly of the tenth century,
found in 1827 with the remains of St. Cuthbert at
Durham, is worked a figure of Pope St. Sextus (third
century) wearing this vestment.^ An instance of the
maniple being represented on the right arm may be
seen atNewnton, Wilts (John Erton, 1503), probably
an engraver's error ; but in the case of the brass at
Naudhausen, of Jacob Capillan, 1395 (a kneeling
priest, holding up a chalice), it may be that this
change is intentional. In the MS. known as the
Bible of Charles le Chauve (840) is a representation
of that monarch receiving a Bible, in which ecclesi-

^ Figured p. 33, and described p. 206, of "Saint Cuthbert, with an
account of the state in which his remains were found upon the opening
of his tomb in Durham Cathedral in the year MDCCCXXVIL," by the
Rev. James Raine, M.A., Durham, 1828.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 69

astics appear wearing maniples over their right hands
(reproduced in Planche's Cyclopedia of Costume, Yo\. II.,
1876, p. 31).

Chasuble {^aivoXiov, casula, planeta. Old English,
chesihle, vestment) J- The Roman toga seems to have
become a very inconvenient garment, and was super-
seded by successive modifications, the penula, casula,
and planeta. From one of these forms, probably the
planeta, the ecclesiastical chasuble is derived. Its
use, except when worn folded at certain seasons
{planeta plicata), was confined to the celebrant at
Mass. Its earlier form was circular with a large
aperture in the centre through which the head passed.
Later it seems to have become a pointed oval (vesica
piscis), a shape known now as the Gothic chasuble;
which form would give more freedom in the use of
the hands.^ As the vestment became heavier with
embroidery it was found necessary to split up the
sides, as in the modern Roman chasuble. At the
period when it appears frequently on brasses, it was
a vestment of great costliness, made of silk, cloth of
gold, etc., often elaborately decorated. The material
used in earlier brasses, such as Bishop Yso Wilpe's,
is much more pliable than the stiff fabrics of a later
day. The orphrey work sometimes took the form

^The word vestmentum is occasionally found applied to a set of mass
vestments. In the provincial constitutions of Walter Gray, Archbishop
ot York, I250,_the parishioners are to provide "Vestimentum ipsius
^^ecclesi^ pnncipale, viz., casula, alba munda, amictus, stola, manipulus,

zona. Wilkms Concilia Magna Britannia, Vol. I., 1737, p. 698.

^ This is a disputed point. The pointed or Gothic chasuble of modern
times may be without authority. Father Lockhart contends {The Chasuble;
us Genuine Form and Size, 1891) that the pointed form seen on sepulchral

Th^^M '"''c ' "T"^ °^ ^^"^^ '-^ff^^^^^g the rounded

chasuble^ ^'f ^"^P^^ rounded chasuble worn by St. Cuthbert in

on tt Ritl /r?7'\""T'"^ °^ Commentaries

on the Bible of Nicholas de Lyra, at Durham (reproduced, p. 131, in
Rames 5/ Cuthbert, 1828) But the chasuble of St. Thorn s^ Becket
at Sens seems to support the contrary view.

70 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

of a border alone, round the edge of the garment.
At others a perpendicular strip appears, as in the
brass of Bishop Yong at New College, or a Gamma
(y) or Psi (xf) shaped orphrey is seen. Occasionally
the chasuble is quite plain.^

The following are good examples of priests in mass
vestments ^ : —

1337. Laurence de St. Maur, Higham Ferrers, North-
ants.

c. 1340. John de Grovehurst, Horsemonden, Kent.
c. 1360. Esmound de Burnedissh, Brundish, Suifblk.
c. 1360. Thomas de Horton, North Mimms, Herts
(Flemish).

c. 1360. Simon de Wenslagh, Wensley, Yorkshire
(Flemish).

c. 1370. A priest (with a franklin), Shottesbrook, Berks.
c. 1370. A priest (.? Nicholas de Caerwent), Crondall,
Hants.

c. 1370. A priest, Stoke-in-Teignhead, Devon.
c. 1375. Peter de Lacy, Northfleet, Kent.

1380. A priest, Beachamwell, Norfolk (.? Thomas
Chervyll).
c. 1390. A priest, Fulbourn, Cambs.

1395. John de Swynstede, Ashridge House, Bucks.
c. 1400. A priest, Stanford-on-Soar, Notts.
c. 1430. A priest. Saffron Walden, Essex.

1432. William Byschopton, Great Bromley, Essex.

1477. Geoffrey Byschop, Fulbourn, Cambs.
c. 1500. Philip Eyre, Ashover, Derbyshire.

1 519. Hen. Dodschone, Stanton Harcourt, Oxon.

^e^., c. 1380. Thomas Chervyll (?), Beachamwell, Norfolk.
c. 1400. A priest, Stanford-on-Soar, Notts.
c. 1425. Robert Fyn, Little Easton, Essex.
c. 1460. John Spicer (?), Monkton, Kent.
1522. Edmund Assheton, Middleton, Lanes.
The chasuble of Richard Thaseburgh, 1389, Hellesdon, Norfolk, has
a very simple hem-like border.

' Other examples are mentioned, p. loi.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

71

There are numerous examples of demi-figures in similar
vestments : —

1311. Richard de Hakebourne, Merton College,
Oxford.

c. 1320. Thomas de Hop, Kemsing, Kent.

c. 1320. A priest, Wantage, Berks.

c. 1340. Richard de Beltoun, Corringham, Essex.

c. 1340. A priest, Great Brington, Northants.

c. 1360. Walter Frilende, Ockham, Surrey.

c. 1364. William Darell, Brandsburton, Yorkshire.

c. 1365. Radulphus Perchehay, StifFord, Essex.

c. 1370. John Verieu, Saltwood, Kent.

c. 1380. John Alderburne, Lewknor, Oxon.

1398. , Roger Campedene, Stanford-in-the-Vale, Berks.
c. 1430. A priest, Upton Lovel, Wilts.
c. 1450. Esperaunce Blondell, Arundel, Sussex.

1474. Robert Warde, Arundel, Sussex.

1494. John Taknell, Winchester College.

1498. William Branwhait, Ewelme, Oxon.

1 5 14. John Tylbert, Winchester College.

1 5 14. John Crewaker, Winchester College.

Some variant brasses must be mentioned, which, with
the exception of the first example given below, appear to
show a combination of mass and processional vestments: —

c. 1430. John West, Sudborough, Northants, in amice,
alb, and crossed stole.

^.1411. Henry Clark, Vicar, Horsham, Sussex; 1432,
John Wyllynghale (half eff.). Fellow, Win-
chester College ; 1435, Henry Martin, Rector
of Yaxham, Upwell, Norfolk, vested in amice,
alb, crossed stole, and cope, thereby allowing
the arrangement of the stole to be seen. The
orphreys of the cope in the first instance bear
the initials H.C.

1472. Thomas Tonge, LL.B., Beeford, Yorks; (a
similar efligy to which was formerly at Romald-
kirk, N. Yorks), and two half effigies of

72

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Fellows at Winchester College (1445, Richard
North, and 1473, Edward Tacham) vested in
amice, alb, and cope.
1465. Thomas Cod, Vicar, St. Margaret's, Rochester
(half efF.), in cassock, amice, surplice^ and cope
(see p. 40).

In addition to the vestments, above mentioned, bishops
wore the following : —

I. Dalmatic {tunica dalmatica). The origin of this vest-
ment has been touched on whilst considering the alb.
Its name is derived from that of the country whence
it came. Its use as a separate vestment was given,
as a privilege, to the Roman deacons ; and it is still
worn by the Deacon at Mass. Originally a close
white linen robe reaching below the knees, with
sleeves and purple or black clavi, it soon became a
subject for ornament, being decorated, before the
twelfth century, with vertical or horizontal bands of
embroidery. Later it became embroidered through-
out, as on Bishop Goodryke's brass, 1554, at Ely,
and was made of similar material and colour to the
chasuble. The bishop wore this vestment immedi-
ately beneath the chasuble. The episcopal dalmatic
was fringed on both sleeves and on both sides ; the
deacon's properly on the left sleeve and side only.
Examples of deacons on brasses are exceedingly rare.
The reverse of the canopy of the brass at Burwell,
Cambs, shows an ecclesiastic, c. 1320, so vested {see
p. 41).^ The brass of Eghardus de Hanensee,

^ The figure of St. Lawrence, vested in the dalmatic, occurs on the
following brasses : —

1 40 1. William Ermyn, Rector, Castle Ashby, Northants, in which the
saint wears the episcopal dalmatic and a stole (priest-fashion).

1429. Roger Thornton and wife (Flemish), Newcastle-on-Tyne.

1468. John Byrkhed, Harrow, Middlesex.
A saint in deacon's vestments appears on the brass of Laurence de
St. Maur, 1337, Higham Ferrers, Northants, and on that of Bishop
Rudolphus, 1482, at Breslau ; a figure of St. Quentin on that of Abbot
Leonardus Betten, 1607, at Ghent.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Provost, 1460, at Hildesheim (figured by Creeny)
shows the dalmatic fully exposed.

Tunic LE (tunica pontificalisy tunicelld)^ a plainer variety
of the dalmatic, with narrower sleeves and frequently
a fringed border. It was the vestment peculiar to the
Sub-Deacon at Mass. The bishop wore it immediately
below the dalmatic, but not until about the twelfth
century. Originally of white linen, it underwent
similar enrichment to the dalmatic. In the brass of
Bishop Trilleck (1360) at Hereford, this vestment
does not appear, probably because it is hidden beneath
the dalmatic. This difficulty was solved by repre-
senting the dalmatic as shorter than the tunicle, the
fringed hem of which, thereby, appears.'

Buskins or Stockings {caliga, sotulares, tibialia. Old
English sabatyns), fastened at the knee, were first
made of linen, then of silk embroidered. Originally
reserved for the Pope, their use was gradually ex-
tended.

Sandals {sandalia^ campaga). These, from an inter-
mediate state of open work or fenestration, passed to
shoes with strings (in the fourteenth century), on
which three orphreys, somewhat of a ?si (^) shape,
frequently occur.

Gloves {chirotheca^ manica) had come to be of white
netted silk or other delicate material, though origin-
ally, probably of leather and intended for warmth.
Jewels were set in the gloves, or a plate enamelled or
jewelled, called a monial^ was placed in the centre of

_ In the directions for revesting the Abbot of Westminster at Evensong,
instructions are given to lay ready the dalmatic with longest sleeves above
tlie other. This implies that the tunicle had longer sleeves than the
fe mh . ' f "dalmatic" is applied to both Ltments, the four!

IT^OTT^^'T'' fTT'""'''' °f P^^" of dalmatics.

1.88 " Rv T W ^7 Westminster Abbey, taken in

74 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

the back of the glove.^ In the brasses of Bishops
Stanley (1515), Yong (1526), Goodryke (1554), Bell
(1556), and Pursglove (1579), the gauntlets are wide,
ending in tassels.

6. Ring (annului) was worn, not near the knuckle, but

above the lower finger-joint on the middle finger of
the right hand, and was kept in place by a guard ring.
Either it was passed over the glove, or the finger of
the glove was cut away so as to show it. The stone
was frequently a sapphire, unengraved, set in gold.^
Sometimes rings appear on several fingers, as on the
brass of Bishop Yong, 1526, at New College. These
rings were called ^'■pontificals." That there should be
but one episcopal ring seems fitting, but in the Re-
vesting of the Abbot of Westminster (quoted foot-
note, p. 73) " hys glovys and pontyfycales " are
mentioned, implying more than one ring.^ Bishop
Stanley (15 15) wears a large ring on his right thumb.

7. Mitre'* {rnitra^ cidaris^ borrowed from similar Greek),

' " Item, a paire of gloves with broches sowedde upon eche of them
with perles and stones." At St. Paul's, in 1552. See Hierurgia Angli-
cana, revised and considerably enlarged by Vernon Staley. London,
Moring, Part I., 1902, p. 60.

2 " Item, a pontificale of golde with a great saphyer in it of playne
worke." St. Paul's, 1552. See the same, p. 60.

3 See " On an Inventory of the Vestry at Westminster," by J. Wickham
Legg, F.S.A., Archceoh^a, Vol. LII., 1890, p. 214, note b. " Item fouer
tinges of silver called pontificalles " in Henry VIII. 's Jewel Book. It
has been held that the ring symbolizes a mystical marriage. This idea
would be supported by the fact that the see impales with its arms those
of the bishop. On the brass of Bishop Bernhard de Lippe, 1340, at
Paderborn, the coat of Lippe (azure, a five-petalled rose gules) is borne
on an escutcheon of pretence in the centre of the arms of the see, gules
a cross or. An article, " On Episcopal Rings," by Edmund Waterton,
F.S.A.,will be found in the Archceolo^calJournal,Vo\. XX., 1863, p. 224.

'^Sce Papers "Ecclesiastical Head Dress," by Charles Browne, M.A.»
F.S.A., Transactions of St. Paul's Ecclesiological Society, Vol. III., 1895*
p. 155, and "The Evolution of the Mitre," by Henry Philibert Feasey>
O.S.B., The Reliquary and Illustrated Archeeolo^st, Vol. x., 1904, p. 73.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

the head-dress of a bishop, probably developed from
a plain skull-cap. An illumination (reproduced in
Marriott ^) in a MS. in the British Museum (Cotton,
Claud A3) shows St. Gregory the Great wearing a low
cap with two lappets (infuU^ vitt^e) which, originally,
in all probability, being tied under the chin, kept the
cap in place.^ Possibly it was not before the eleventh
century that the mitre began to show signs of the
shape with two peaks, with which it is usually asso-
ciated. The earlier forms are comparatively low and
triangular, as in that of Archbishop Grenefeld, 13 15,
at York,3 but later they become higher and are
crocketed in accordance with Gothic taste (1395,
John de Waltham, Bishop of Salisbury, Westminster
Abbey; 1554, Bishop Goodryke at Ely); finally
they become curved and bulged (1631, Archbishop
Harsnett, Chigwell, Essex). They were made first
of linen, then of silk or other costly material, and
were of three kinds, worn on occasions of varying
dignity : —

1. Mitra simplex, of white linen or silk, without

much ornament.

2. Mitra aurifrigiata, with gold-embroidered

orphreys.

3. Mitra pretiosa, overlaid with gold plates, set

with jewels frequently of great value.
8;_Pastoral Staff or Crozier^ {virga or haculus pastoralis,
'Plate XLIV, Vestiarium Christianum, 1868.

^In the brass of Lambert von Brun at Bamberg, 1390, the hfuU
appear as though tied behind. In the Westminstef InJen o y quS
above, the stnngs {JabelU) of a mitre are mentioned adorned with^edous
stones and eight silver-gilt bells. Archaologta, Vol. LII., p. .^^^P""'^""^

3 Bishop Pursgloye (1579) wears a mitre, similarly depressed but that
of Bishop Stanley (15 15) was of a considerable height. '

befoTetSIhoT'V' X^'Tt^'^^J '^^"^''^ the cross-stafF borne
yilTf^^-- ^'f^^^'"^^^''%'^' Vol. LI. (and Series, Vol 1)
DD FS A ' Staves," by the Rev. Frederick George Lee

D.D., F.S.A., and Vol. LII. (znd Series, Vol. II.), 1890, p. 70^" On

76 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

camhuca^ ferula^ pedum). The usual form is ob-
viously adopted from the shepherd's crook, denoting
the bishop's pastoral authority. The staff was fre-
quently of some precious wood, such as cedar, and
often overlaid by plates of metal. The shape of the
head varied greatly. Early instances occur of knobs
or Y-shaped tops. Some Irish staves have a crook
shaped like an inverted U. The usual form, how-
ever, is that of a volute, richly carved, frequently
having in the centre a sacred symbol, such as the
Agnus Dei. Below the crook a knob is seen, pos-
sibly used as a reliquary. Figures of saints in taber-
nacle work are not uncommon. To the knob a scarf
or veil (infula^ vexillurn) is seen fastened, often having
a tasselled end. This by some has been derived
from the banner of Constantine ; but a more likely,
though humbler, explanation is that it served as a
napkin to prevent the plated staff from getting tar-
nished : a view that is adequately supported by the
manner of holding the staff seen on brasses. Much
misconception exists as to the representation of the
pastoral staff on sepulchral monuments, a popular
idea being that the crook of a bishop's staff is turned
outwards to show his diocesan authority ; that of an
abbot turned towards his body to show a jurisdiction
restricted to his convent. But monuments give us
no such clue ; the heads of staves being turned, in-
differently, either way.

It is held usually in the left hand, or rests between
the left arm and the body ; but in instances such as
the palimpsest at Burwell, Cambridgeshire, it is on
the right side; the reason for it being held in the
left hand probably being that the right hand is raised

the use of the terms Crosier, Pastoral Staff, and Cross," by the Rev. J. T.
Fowler, M.A., F.S.A. In the Westminster Inventory (" Revestyng of
the Abbot") we read : " Hys myter and crose beyng Redy" {Jrchceologia,
Vol. LIL, 1890, p. 214), Archbishop Harsnett's will (1630) mentions
a crozier-staff, which on the brass is identical with a pastoral staff.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

to give a benediction. The pastoral staff has a pointed
end, with which a bishop took off the vestments of
an ecclesiastic on deprivation. Mr. R. A. S. Mac-
alister ^ gives the following inscriptions, as supposed
to have been engraved : — round the crook, " Cum
iratus fueris, misericordias recordaberis " ; on the ball
of the crook, " Homo " ; on the spike at the bottom,
" Parce." On the brasses of Bishop Henry Robinson,
1616, at Carlisle, and at Queen's College, Oxford,''
the pastoral staff bears : — on the shaft, "Ps. 23. Cor-
rigendo svstentando " ; on the crook, encircling
an eye, "Vigilando, Dirigendo " ; on a short veil,
"Velando."

Besides these vestments, archbishops have two addi-
tional ornaments : —

I. Cross Staff, which, as its name denotes, has for its
head a cross or crucifix. That this ornament does not,
in the case of an archbishop, necessarily supply the
place of the episcopal crozier or pastoral staff is suffi-
ciently demonstrated by the presence of both cross-
staff and crozier on some archiepiscopal monuments;
notably the brass of Bishop Lambert von Brun, 1399,
in Bamberg Cathedral,^ who holds the cross-staff in
his right hand and the pastoral staff in his left ; the
brass of Archbishop Jacobus de Senno, 1480, at
Gnezen, with pastoral staff in right hand and cross-
staff in left; and the monument of Archbishop
Albrecht von Brandenburg, 1 545, at Mayence. For,
although the cross-staff was usually borne in front of
the archbishop, rather than held by him ; yet, as in

^Ecclesiastical Vestments, p. 132.
Febiurr^Tsgg" '■^^^■^"''^ University Brass Rubbing Society, Part I.,

3 The Bishops of Autun, Bamberg, Le Puy, Lucca, Ostia, Pavia, and
Verona are entitled to the archiepiscopal pall. Hence, probably, the
presence of the cross-staff in this instance may be similarly explained. The
Bishops of Dol were entitled to an archiepiscopal cross-stafE

78 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

the case of Archbishop Cranley's brass at New College
141 7> It IS shown on his left side, partly, probably'
for pictorial effect, and also to accentuate the evidence
afforded by the pallium, of his metropolitan rank.

2. Pall {pallium, ^/^o<l>6piov), like the stole, probably de-
rived from the orarium. Dr. Rock, however, con-
siders It to be descended from the Roman toga.^ ' The
ecclesiastical vestment is very dissimilar from the
Roman pallium, or cloak. It was early set apart as
the symbol of authority delegated by the Pope to the
Metropolitans, and was sent by him to each of them
when consecrated. Made of white wool, of three
fingers' breadth, in the sixth century mosaics at
Kavenna, it appears in a different form to that of later
times.* But, finally, the vestment assumed a T or Y
shape in front and behind, as we see it represented in
the few brasses on which it occurs, and in the arms
of the See of Canterbury. In earlier examples it is
represented as of great length, as in Bishop Yso
Wilpe s brass, where it has a Tau-like end.^ Later
It becomes somewhat shorter, as in Archbishop
Cranley s effigy. The pall was at first fastened by
gold pins to the chasuble, to keep it in place. These
may,^ possibly, be represented by the purple crosses
{patefitchi in the Cranley brass) shown on the pall
which vary in number. Later a plummet of lead,'

; The Church of our Fathers, Vol. II., 1849, P- For an account of

th vestment see "The Blessing of the Episcopal Ornament called the
Pal , by J. WicL.iam Legg, F.S.A., Yorkshire Jrchaological Journal,
Vol. XV., 1900, p. 121. * '

^ Being passed from the front, over the left shoulder, then from behind,
over the right, looped round in front, and passed again over the left
shoulder, thereby appearing double on that shoulder and single on the
right, the two ends hanging loose, one in front and one behind; but
afterwards, by being knotted, the tails (W) were brought to hang
symmetrically before and behind.

3 It is difficult to understand why this bishop wears a pall, unless it
were conferred as a mark of favour, as in some modern instances.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 79

sewn inside at the end, was found to have this effect
without injuring the orphrey of the chasuble. The
pall was worn, correctly, only within the archbishop's
province, and at his death was buried with him. The
effigy of Albrecht von Brandenburg, 1545, at May-
ence, shows two short palls, probably denoting there-
by that he was Archbishop of IMagdeburg as well as
of Mayence. Care must be taken not to confuse the
pall with the Y-shaped orphrey, frequently seen on
the chasuble.

A list of brasses of Archbishops and Bishops in Pon-
tincals : — ^

Archbishops.

1315- William Grenefeld, Archbishop of York York
Minster. '

1397- Robert de Waldeby, Archbishop of York West-
mmster Abbey. '

1417. Thomas Cranley, Archbishop of Dublin, New
College, Oxford.

At Edenham,_ Lincolnshire, is a small sixteenth-century
brass, representing an archbishop, 18 in. high, fastened
some forty feet from the ground on the ou'tside of the
west wall of the tower.^ But it may be questioned whether
It be a sepu chral hr^,,. One theory suggests that it is a
representation of St. Thomas of Canterbury, who s de-
picted , he canopy of Thomas Nelond, PrL of ,L wes,
1433, at Cowfold, Sussex, and also, possibly, as the arch-
bishop on the orphrey of the cope of SimonVhf 14 ^
at Knebworth, Herts. At All Saints', Maidstone waJ
formerly a brass for Archbishop William Cou^^^^^^^^^^^^
i^tr 2 V^^' ^^^i^d at Canterbury, ^fn the

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ of the Martyrdom, lie the

-one is unsuitable for carved
case i^ son.; Glouc«ter hTre ,t t" ^V^'^^^^^^^- ^his is the

is a brass to TWas^Sn^tratrwife^ X'!''' ^^^^^^^

8o ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

matrices of the brasses of Archbishop John Stafford,' 1452,
and Archbishop Henry Dene,^ 1502-3. At Sandal Parva,
W, Yorks, was formerly the kneeling effigy of "William
Rokeby, Archbishop of Dublin, 1521. The inscription
alone remains.

Bishops.

1360. John Trilleck, Bishop of Hereford, Hereford
Cathedral.

1375. Robert Wyvill, Bishop of Salisbury, Salisbury
Cathedral.

1395. John de Waltham, Bishop of Salisbury, West-
minster Abbey.

1478. John Bowthe, Bishop of Exeter, East Horsley,
Surrey ; a kneeling figure, in profile, showing
the vertical orphrey on the back of the chasuble
and its jewelled border.^

1496. Richard Bell, Bishop of Carlisle, Carlisle Cathedral.

15 1 5. James Stanley, Bishop of Ely, Manchester Cathe-
dral.

1526. John Yong, titular Bishop of Callipolis, New Col-
lege, Oxford, of which society he was Warden.

1 554. Thomas Goodryke, Bishop of Ely and Lord Chan-
cellor, Ely Cathedral ; holding book and great seal.

1556. John Bell, Bishop of Worcester, St. James', Clerk-
enwell, Middlesex.

^ See illustration of matrix. Wiltshire Notes and Queries, No. 29, March,
1900 (Vol. III., p. 193).

2 This brass had disappeared before 1778. His will is printed in the
Archceolo^.cal Journal, Vol. XVIII., 1 861, p. 256. "The will of Henry
Dene, Archbishop of Canterbury, a.d. 1502-3, communicated by the
Rev. John Bathurst Deane, M.A., F.S.A."

3 An example of a priest kneeling in mass vestments is at Blockley,
Worcs. (William Neele, 15 10). For some account of the Bowthe
family, see " The Booths or Bothes, Archbishops and Bishops, and the
Derbyshire Family to which they belonged," by Llewellynn Jewitt, The
Reliquary, Vol. XXV,, 1884-5, p. 33. With the Boothe brass may be
compared the matrix of that of Thomas Cornish, 1513, Bishop of Tenos,
in Wells Cathedral.

JOHN YONG,
Bishop of Callipolis, 1526,
New College, Oxford.

1

•if

J

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 8i

1579. Robert Pursglove, suffragan Bishop of Hull,
Tideswell, Derbyshire.

At Adderley, Shropshire, is a full-length figure in epis-
copal vestments, c. 1390, without tunicle, stole, or gloves,
holding a crozier in the right hand and a book in the left.'
At Hereford Cathedral is preserved a figure of St. Ethel-
bert, which is all that remains of the brass of Bishop
Thomas Cantilupe, 1282. In the same cathedral is a plate
beanng twelve Latin hexameters, part of the memorial of
Bishop John Stanberry, 1474. At St. Andrew's, Norwich,
a scroll and shield survive from the cross-brass of Bishop
John Underwood, 1541, titular Bishop of Chalcedon, and
suffragan to the Bishop of Norwich.

At St. John Maddermarket, Norwich, is a palimpsest
brass commemorating Robert Rugge, 1558, the reverse
of which shows portions of a figure in episcopal vestments,
of early date, c 1320, holding a pastoral staff in the ri^ht
hand and a book on the breast in the left.^ At Upminster
Essex, a small brass of a civilian, 1540, has on its reverse
side a lower part of a figure in pontificals, probably of
ear y fifteenth century date. Other instances occur at
Bucks Darcy, in the same county, and at Hedgerley,

Several matrices of episcopal brasses exist. Perhaps the
most notable IS that of Bishop Beaumont (1333) at Durham.3
tn ^ f^'i ^^'l^^'^^ ^ small brass to tL east of the
tomb of Bishop Richard Mayo (1516), representing h^m
kneeling in pontificals before a figure of the Virgiif

shield bearinf Argent

" Haec sp'cs mZ \n sTu ^ea" " ^'^'^ "^"'^^ °" ^^-^ is inscribed,

"-^ Vol. I.,

82 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

on a fess sable between three roses gules a lily of the first.
This was well restored in 1857 by Magdalen College,
Oxford, of which the Bishop was President. A small
brass is preserved in the cathedral library at Lincoln, con-
sisting of a crocketed mitre {pretiosd) surmounting a shield
bearing a chevron between three crosses-croslet fitch^, with
a curious inscription, through which it has been ascribed
to Bishop John Russell (1494). The reverse of the shield
on the brass of Thomas Fromond, Esq., 1 542, at Cheam,
Surrey, shows the arms of the see of Lincoln, c. 1420.

A few general remarks will now be in place as to the
representation of the foregoing vestments on brasses. The
earlier examples of the fourteenth century have the hair
long and flowing, the ears large, and the shaven part of
the face represented by dots. The vestments are less
rigid than in later monuments ; the chasuble, especially,
showing by its many folds, that it was of pliant material.
In the earlier examples, the ends of the stole and maniple
are frequently broadened, and the apparels of the alb are
continued round the wrists (as at Corringham, Essex,
Richard de Beltoun, half efF., c. 1340), being represented
later by a square piece only, on the upper side of the
sleeve. In some instances the mitten sleeves of the under-
garment appear over the hands beyond the alb. In the
fifteenth century a greater stiffness in the vestments be-
comes visible ; the hair is shown straight, and not in the
graceful manner noticed at first. The Reformation brings
this class of brass to an end. Instances of omission are
well known, due, in all probability, to the mistakes of the
engraver. For example, the stole is omitted at Blisland,
Cornwall (John Balsam, 1410) ; Chelsfield, Kent (William
Robroke, 1420); and at Newton Bromshold, Northants
(William Hewett, 1426) ; the maniple in Bishop Yong's
effigy at New College, 1526; both stole and maniple
at Coleshill, Warwickshire (William Abell, 1 500) ; at
Sawston, Cambs. (Edmund Richardson, 1522); and at
Middleton, Lanes. (Edmund Assheton, 1522). The

C.B.]

JOHN VERIEU, c. 1370,
Saltwood, Kent.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 83

tunicle is not visible on the brass of Bishop Trilleck,
1360, at Hereford. The stole worn by Bishop Goodryke'
I554j at Ely, is placed between the tunicle and the
dalmatic.

The ornamentation of the mass vestments is usually of
a geometrical kind, the lozenge being a favourite device,
squares and circles also being found. These are fre-
quently filled in with the quatrefoil, or simple forms of a
floral origin. The cross is exceedingly rare. It occurs on
the brass of John de Waltham, Bishop of Salisbury in
Westmmster Abbey.^ The device known as the "fylfot"
cross may be seen on several brasses (e.g. Richard de
Hakebourne, ^. 1311, Merton College, Oxford; Walter
Frdende, c. 1360, Ockham, Surrey, half-eff., etc.). Per-
sonal devices seldom occur on the chasuble, probably
because of its superior sanctity, but the initials I. B
(arranged ^ ) occur on the vertical orphrey of that vest-
ment at Arundel, Sussex (John Baker, fellow 1445). On
the chasuble worn over his armour by Sir Peter Le^h
(1527), Winwick, Lanes, (which shows an embroidered
collar, usually concealed in the priestly effigy by the
apparel of the amice), a large shield of six quarterings is
placed. On the brass of Bishop Bernhard de Lippe
1340, at Paderborn, the orphrey of the chasuble bears
hve-petalled roses in reference to his arms, and in the
Schwerin brasses the arms of de Bulowe occur in a similar
position, in one case also on the amice. On the latter
vestment at Posen on the brass of Bishop Vrielis de Gorka
1498, the letters p a t and i v s occur, which Creeny

J. Crosses occur on the maniple of Archbishop Grenefeld, I3i5,in York
Minster; that of Abbot Leonardus Betten, 1607, at Ghent, has thr^e

crosses.

The description of the brass of Bishop Lewis de Beaumont Riven in
he Durham Book of Rites shows that his arms occurred on his chasuble
his owne armes of France, being a white lyon placed uppon t^e £
of h,s vestment beneath his verses of his breaft with flLer de W
about the lyon." His seal shows a similar heraldic chlsuZl (7. ?l!
engravings, Proc. Soc. Ant., Series IL, Vol XIII ^ "^"^

84 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

supposed to be the first and last three letters of " Pater,
Spiritus, Filius."' Figures of saints on chasubles are
rare.^ The Waltham brass, 1395, at Westminster, with
the Virgin and child, the arms of the See of Salisbury,
furnishes an English instance, which is shown alternately
with a cross on the vertical orphrey of the bishop's
chasuble. Palimpsest brasses at Upminster, Essex, and
Bayford, Herts, show, when reversed, portions of the same
brass of an abbot or bishop, probably of fifteenth-century
Flemish work, whose finely-embroidered chasuble has an
orphrey with saints.^ The chasuble orphrey of Leonardus
Betten, 1607, Abbot of St. Trond, on his brass, now in
Ghent Museum, shows figures of SS. Quentin, Trond,
Peter, Paul, and James. In each case the orphrey is
vertical. Across the chasuble of Laurence de St. Maur,
1337, at Higham Ferrers, Northants, is written, " Fili dei
miserere mei." Across that of Thomas Ouds, 1500,
Great Musgrave, Westmorland, " Reposita est spes mea
in sinu meo.""*

1 In "Inventories of Christchurch, Canterbury, etc., edited by J.
Wickham Legg, F.S.A., and W. H. St. John Hope, M A., 1902, quoted
p 165 Vol. I., HzVra;-^'/z^«^/zV'7«^, 1 9°2, occurs the following:— item
"'i falbe] of redwelvet embrodered the Image of St. Laurence and St.
" Stephens ye amyse whereof is imbrodered w' y« nameof wiUiam hull m

" letters of golde." , <^ 1 j 1

2 The apparel of the amice found in 1892 in Canterbury Cathedral on
the body of Archbishop Hubert Walter {d. 1205) was embroidered with
seven figures : Christ enthroned, the four evangelistic symbols, and the
archangels Michael and Gabriel. See " Burial Places of the Archbishops
of Canterbury," by Canon Scott Robertson. Jrchaologta Cantiana, Vol.

Another ^exWe (fifteenth-century Flemish) is on the reveneofa
man in armour, c. 1 560, in the possession of Sir. M. Boileau, of Ketter-

ingham Park, Norfolk. , . .

4Bishop Beaumont "In pectore... Reposita est haec spes mea m sinu
meo. Domine miserere." " Durham Book of Rites (see ^'m. Soc. Jnt.,
Series II., Vol. XIII., p. 37)- The lost brass of Richard Stondon, priest
(early sixteenth century), formerly at St. Albans, showed him in a chasuble,
the orphreys of which were engraved with the inscription : Jesu Christ,
Mary's son, Have mercy on the soul of Sir Richard Stondon priest. See
" The Brasses and Indents in St. Albans' Abbey," by William Page,
F.S.A. Home Counties Magazine, Vol. I., 1899.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 85

The Processional or Choral Vestments have now
to be considered. These, unhke the foregoing, cannot be
said to possess a sacramental significance, but form the
dress of dignity of ecclesiastics of rank, worn to show a
temporal rather rather than a spiritual position.

First it will be convenient to mention a garment, by no
means confined to the Processional Vestments proper, but
worn by clergy as an ordinary course.

The Cassock (camisia vestis, tunica talaris, cassacca^ pelliciuni)
was the ordinary dress of the western ecclesiastic,
worn beneath the eucharistic as beneath the proces-
sional vestments, though in the former case obscured
by the alb, as we know was the case with the monastic
habit. It is well seen when worn with the surplice.
Intended for warmth, we find it lined with fur {peliis),
indications of which appear at the wrists on some
brasses {e.g., a Priest, c. 1520, St. Just-in-Roseland,
Cornwall, a broad fur cufF). Its form was that of a
close-fitting garment, open in front, with sleeves.
Its colour is usually black, though sometimes red, as
in the west window of Cirencester Abbey, Gloucs., or
purple for distinction of dignity." In the same
church is a small brass (c 1480) representing the
cassock with nothing worn over it. Another in-
stance is afforded by the second son, kneeling, on
the brass of Nicholas Gaynesford, Esq., and wife,
c. 1490, Carshalton, Surrey. The bracket brass with
the figure of John Whytton, 1420, Merton College,
Oxford, shows it worn in conjunction with tippet and
hood {see p. 104). The tight-fitting buttoned sleeves.

' Professor E. C. Clark (in his account of English Medieval Academical
Costume m Vol. L., Archaolo^cal Journal) deals with the question of the
significance of the scarlet cassock ; an eminent colour suitable for canons
and cardinals ; but originally connected, in his opinion, rather with law
than with divinity, though writers usually attribute it to doctors in the
ktter faculty, whose use of the scarlet gown is well known. Archbishop
1 arker, at Morning Prayer on the day of his consecration (December i6th,
1559), wore a toga talaris coccinea.

86 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

prolonged over the hands, like mittens, seen in some
effigies, may possibly be identified with those of the
subtunica, mentioned by Professor Clark ; for, as in
the brass of Archdeacon Rothewelle, 1361, they
appear to belong to a body-garment worn under the
cassock.

Surplice {superpellicium), so named from being worn over
the fur-lined cassock, is a loose-fitting vestment of
white linen, as a rule unadorned, with long hanging
sleeves. Not being of so great a length as the alb,
it allows the cassock to appear beneath it, except in
some early instances, such as St. Cross, Winchester
(John de Campeden, 1382), or Cobham, Kent
(Reginald de Cobham, 1402), in which the cassock is
hidden by a long surplice. Not open in front, it is
passed over the head, like the alb. On brasses it is
frequently represented as crimped. Marriott points
out ' that the first mention of a surplice {superpelliceum)
belongs to the twelfth century, when Stephanus,
Bishop of Tournay, sent one to Cardinal Albinus
with a sermon, " de mystica superpellicei confec-
tione."

Almuce {almutium^ aumusse, amys^ amess ; muce^ Teutonic
for cap or hood, to which is prefixed the Arabic
article), originally a hood, worn to protect the head
from the cold, the use of which was granted to vari-
ous monastic, cathedral, and collegiate bodies, and as
such appears in the arms of the Chapter of Laon.'

^Vestiarium Ckristianum, 1868, Appendix G., p. 227.

2 See " The Black Scarf of Modern Church Dignitaries and the Grey
Almuce of Medieval Canons," by J. Wickham Legg, F.S.A., Transactions
of St. Paul's Ecclesiological Society, Vol. III.

On an incised slab in Paris, engraved in Shaw's Dresses and Decorations,

Vol. I., lohn D , Canon of Poitiers, and Chancellor of Noyon, 1350,

is shown in mass vestments, wearing the almuce as a head covering. It
is used as such on two small sepulchral effigies at Bitton, Gloucs , worn
with cassock, surplice, and choral cope (illustrated p. 34, Vol. I^., 2nd
series, 1878, Transactions of Exeter Diocesan Architectural Society, Ihe

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 8

This hood was made of dark cloth lined with fur,
which in the case of canons and ecclesiastics of dignity
was of a grey colour. About the end of the thirteenth
century it appears to have assumed a cape form, by
being allowed to fall back on the shoulders, whereby
the fur lining became outermost, establishing the
form of the garment, as the fur cape with a kind of
roll-collar, with which we are familiar on brasses of
priests in processional vestments. At first open in
front and fastened with a morse or strings,' it later
became closed, so that it had to be passed over the
head. In the fourteenth century, we find it with two
long pendent ends, hanging down in front, which are
well shown on brasses, and must not be mistaken for
the stole. One of the earliest brasses in processional
vestments is that of Archdeacon Rothewelle, 1 361, at
Roth well, Northants, in which the almuce seems' to
lack the cape-characteristic, so evident in later brasses,
especially those in which the cope is not worn, as at
Great Haseley, Oxon. (Thomas Butler, 1494) and at
Christ Church, Oxford (James Courthope, 1557), in
each of which appear the small pendent tails or tufts
of the fur attached to the edge of the cape. Fre-
quently the almuce is represented on brasses in a

Prebenda Church of St. Mary Bitton, Gloucestershire," by the Rev.
K T. Ellacombe M.A., F.S.A." See also Proceedings of the Society of
Jntt^uanes, Vol. IL, 1849, P- 9°. Bloxam writes : " In winter thi
aumasse was worn as a hood as well as a tippet, and in the representations
o ecc esiastics of canonical rank on French incised monuments, we fre-
quently hnd the aumasse used as a hood, and worn on the head, but
in monumental brasses in this country we rarely find it otherwise than
Council or°M-7"^ t ^A ^"^ breast. In the fifth provincial

"to?ho? f ^'^•'^"'^^IdA.D. I 579, the aumasse is declared to be peculiar
to those of canonical rank, ' Almutia pellicea insigne canonicorum est ' "
Mtdland Counttes^ Herald, Thursday, March 5th, 1 846. ""''"'""^

^The former can be seen at Cobham, Kent, William Tannere IA18 •
the latter m sculptured figures of canons of the fifteenth cen"ury at Wells'
Criry^ '"^^^^^^--'^^^ ^^b---' ^50S,at BambergYfiglTdt;

88 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

white metal, engraved to resemble fur ; the ends of
the long pendants, unlike those of the stole, being of
a rounded shape, though at Mawgan-in-Pydar, Corn-
wall, c. 1420, they are squared. In a few brasses,
where the cope is seen, the almuce is omitted :
{e.g., 1438, John Lovelle, St. George's, Canterbury;
1458, William Kyrkeby, Theydon Gernon, Essex;
c. 1460, a Priest, Temple Church, Bristol; 1508,
Henry Wykys, All Saints', Stamford, Lines; 1541,
Thomas Dalyson, LL.B., Clothal, Herts; d. 1559,
Bishop John White, Winchester College.)

Cope {cappa, pluviale^ juav^vag). The necessity of protec-
tion from the weather in open-air processions at
Rome ' probably gave rise to the use of this vest-
ment.^ It is a large outer cloak, sleeveless, of semi-
circular shape, worn over the surplice and almuce,
and fastened in front by a brooch, called a morse.
Originally a hood {caputium, diminutive of cappd) was
attached to it, which could be drawn over the head ;
but when the cope became a costly vestment, made
of silk {cappa sericd) and cloth of gold, etc., and worn
in church by high ecclesiastics, its use disappeared,^
and in its place a flap was worn, which lent itself to
the most elaborate embroidery. This flap is very
rarely met with on brasses. The following are four
examples : —

14 1 3. William Langeton, canon, Exeter Cathe-
dral (kneeling sideways).
c. 1520. A Priest, St. Just-in-Roseland, Cornwall (a
plain cope).

^ On the shape of the cope, resembling that of the ancient chasuble but
for being cut up the front, see The Chasuble; its Genuine Form and Size,
by Father William Lockhart, B.A., 189 1.

2 Its ancestor was, probably, the Roman lacerna.

3 The use of the almuce may have rendered the hood of the cope un-
necessary. Just as, later, the almuce was superseded by a cap as a head-
covering, itself becoming a cape.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 8

1530. Adam GrafFton, Withington, Salop.

1550. Thomas Magnus, archdeacon, Sessay, York-
shire.

Hoods appear in a few instances on plain copes,
which, in all probability, form part either of the
monastic habit as at Dorchester, Oxon., 15 10, or of
academical costume, as at All Souls, Oxford, 1461.
Along the straight sides of the cope, and sometimes,
to a less extent, as a border round the edge, are
placed orphreys of different degrees of richness ; and
in some few cases the whole cope is represented as
richly worked, e.g. : —

1414. Simon Bache, Knebworth, Herts.
1450. Robert Thurbern, Winchester College,
warden.^

1462. John Blodwell, Balsham, Cambs.
1472. Thomas Tonge, Beeford, Yorks.
1 51 8. Dr. Robert Langton, Queen's College,
Oxford.

^. 1520. A Priest, Dowdeswell, Gloucs. (embroi-
dered with fleurs de lis in lozenges, as is
Langton 's cope).
1529. Edmund Frowsetoure, S.T.P., Dean, Here-
ford Cathedral.

c. 1548. Bishop John White, warden, Winchester
College {d. 1559).

But, as a rule, only the orphreys appear embroidered,
in the decoration of the cope, unlike that of the
chasuble personal devices are not infrequently found.
At l^ulbourn, Cambs., the cope of Wilham de
l;^ulburne 1391, bears the initials W.F. ; at New
«^ollege, the orphrey on the cope of Richard Malford
warden, 1403, has the initials R.M. ; that of Walter
Wyll warden, 1494, the letters W.H. At Tredine-
ton, Worcs., the orphrey on the cope of Richard

^ With initials R.T. on orphreys and ihc on morse.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Cassey, Canon of York, 1427, " Inceptor legum,"
bears the initials R.C. ; that of Thomas Mordon,
1458, at Fladbury, in the same county, the initials
T.M. ; that at Broadwater, Sussex (John Mapilton,
1432), has the letter M. and maple leaves. The
name of " Thomas Patesley " is worked on the orphrey
and morse of a cope at Great Shelford, Cambs., 141 8.
An instance of heraldic ornament on orphreys is
furnished by the garbs on the brass of Thomas Aile-
ward, at Havant, Hants, 141 3.' An adaptation from
Job xix. 25-26 is seen on the cope of William
Prestwyk, 1436, Warbleton, Sussex. Figures of
apostles or saints occur on the orphreys at Balsham,
Cambs.; Castle Ashby, Northants ; Bottesford,
Leics. ; Knebworth, Herts ; Ringwood, Hants ;
Harrow, Middlesex; and Merton College, Oxford,
all of the fifteenth century.

The morse is sometimes decorated with the con-
traction IHS or mC (as at Winchester College,

1548, Bishop John White, where IHS appears
within a circle). The word " lESUS " occurs on
that of the M agnus brass, 1 550, at Sessay, Yorkshire.
Heraldic morses are found at Castle Ashby, North-
ants, William Ermyn, rector, 1401 (ermine, a saltire
gules ; on a chief of the last a lion passant gardant
or), and at Fulbourn, Cambs., William de Fulburne,
1 39 1 (argent, a saltire sable between four martlets

I It is always well to obtain corroborative evidence before stating
positively that such heraldic decorations represent the family_ bearings of
the person commemorated. For, although such an assumption may be
justifiable, as a rule, in the case of sepulchral monuments, this is by no
means always the case with vestments, extant or mentioned in inventories,
as concerning the donors. In the Havant brass the arms are probably
those of the deceased : but an instance occurs at Flamstead, Herts, ot the
Beauchamp arms on the brass of John Oudeby, rector, d. 1454, who was
canon of the collegiate church of Warwick, and chamberlain of the royal
treasury for the Earl of Warwick. The arms of Thomas Arundel, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, are found on the brass of John Byrkhede, 1468, at
Harrow.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 91

gules). Sometimes the morse contains the initials
of the deceased, as on the Aileward brass mentioned
above. Sometimes the Vernicle or face of Christ is
represented, as at Knebworth, Herts, Simon Bache,
14 14, or at Tattershall, Lines, 1510, or an emblem
of the Trinity, as at Bottesford, Leics. (Henry de
Codyngtoun, 1404). At Dowdeswell, Gloucs., c. 1 520,
the rose-en-soleil is seen.

Choral Cope. — The cope of dignity described above
. {cappa sericd) must not be confused with the choral
cope {cappa nigra) of plain cloth with a hood, but
without ornament, worn in choir by canons and
monks, or by the cantores, as at Westminster. Pos-
sibly the cope of Archdeacon Rothewelle, at Rothwell,
Northants, 1361, may be a slightly ornamental form'
of this garment. Quite plain ones may be seen at
Watton, Herts (an Ecclesiastic, 1380) ;^ at Arundel
Sussex (Adam D'Ertham, 1382, half effigy); at Cot-
tingham, Yorkshire (Nicholas de Louth, 1383); at
St. Andrew's, Auckland, Durham (a Priest, c. 1400,
whose cope is gathered about the shoulders, similarly
to the mantle of the Garter, mentioned below) • at
Shilhngton, Beds (Thomas Portyngton, 1485)-' at
Bampton, Oxon. (Robert Holcot, M.A., 1500) ; and
at St Just-in-Roseland, Cornwall (a Priest, c. ic2o).
The brass of Archdeacon Philip Polton, 1461, at All
bouls College, Oxford, may furnish an academical
exaniple. The monastic cope, as seen at South Creak,
Norfolk (John Norton, 1509), and Dorchester, Oxon.
(Richard Bewfforeste, 15 10), is probably identical
with the choral cope. As a rule, on brasses angels
are represented in amice and alb, but on the Thornton
Ijlemish brass (1429) at Newcastle, those supporting

_Jf^^_^^^^^^^or^^ choral copes i a lik?

of 'mI'/""' u '^°"'^hant gardant. This is unusual The feet

92 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

garment is worn over the alb by the Archangel
Gabriel on the brass of George Rede, rector c.
1492, at Fovant, Wilts. *

The Mantle of the Garter. — Three brasses remain of
canons of St. George's, Windsor, wearing the mantle
of the Order of the Garter/ which was of a purple
colour, with a circular badge on the left shoulder,
bearing argent, a cross gules : —

1. 1370. Roger Parkers, North Stoke, Oxon. (half

effigy with inscription ; head lost).

2. 1540. Roger Lupton, LL.D., Provost of Eton

and Canon of Windsor, Eton College
Chapel (mantle worn over fur-lined
cassock ; no surplice).

3. 1558- Arthur Cole, S.T.B., President of Mag-

dalen, at Magdalen College, Oxford,
showing a very ornate almuce, worn
over cassock and surplice.

The long cords which fasten the mantle are well
represented at North Stoke and Magdalen College.
On the Eton brass the mantle is fastened by a small
morse, and in the two later examples it is gathered
at the neck.

The lost effigy of John Robyns, d. 1558, of which
the inscription remains in St. George's Chapel,
Windsor, may have shown him wearing the mantle

» See " Brasses of Canons of Windsor," by the Rev. J. E. Field, The
Antiquary, Vol. XV., 1887. For military examples, see Ch. III. Brasses
of canons of Windsor are found vested in copes, without the Garter
badge, as at Thurcaston, Leics. (John Mershden, 1425), and at Harrow
(Simon Marcheford, 1442). A brass was discovered in 1890 at Ben-
nington, near Stevenage, Herts, showing a small mutilated effigy of a
priest in a cope with a round badge (?a rose) on the left shoulder. The
cope has an orphrey. This has been supposed to represent a canon of
Windsor. See Transactions of the Cambridge University Association of Brass
Collectors, Vol. II., p. 24.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

of the Order. The effigy of Wilham Boutrod (1522),
"Pety-canon of Windsor" at Eton, is vested in a
cope.

The following are good instances, showing the Proces-
sional Vestments.

(The brasses marked x have the orphreys of the cope
embroidered with figures of saints.)

c. 1 361. William de Rothewelle, Archdeacon of Essex,
Rothwell, Northants.

1382. John de Campeden, St. Cross, Winchester,
Hants.

1 39 1. William de Fulburne, Fulbourn, Cambs.

X c. 1400. A priest, Boston, Lines. .? John Strensall.

X 1 40 1. John de Sleford, Balsham, Cambs.

X 1 40 1. William Ermyn, Castle Ashby, Northants.

1402. Reginald de Cobham, Cobham, Kent, on
bracket.

X 1404. Henry de Codyngtoun, Bottesford, Leics.

14 1 3. Thomas Aileward, Havant, Hants.

X 14 14. Simon Bache, Knebworth, Herts.

X 141 6. John Prophete, Ringwood, Hants.

1420. Robert Wyntryngham,Cotterstock, Northants,
on bracket.

1432- John Mapilton, Broadwater, Sussex.

1436. William Prestwyk, Warbleton, Sussex.

1450. Robert Thurbern, Winchester College.

1454. Robert Arthur, Chartham, Kent,

x 1462. John Blodwell, Balsham, Cambs.

1464. John Heth, Tintinhull, Somerset.

X 1468. John Byrkhed, Harrow, Middlesex,

x 147 1. Henry Sever, Merton College, Oxford.

1498- James Hert, Hitchin, Herts.

1 5 10. Richard Wylleys, Higham Ferrers, Northants.

X 1510. Walter Hewke, Trinity Hall, Cambridge.

X ^. 1 5 1 o. A Provost, Tattershall, Lines.

1518. Robert Langton, Queen's College, Oxford.

94 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

1529. Edmund Frowsetoure, S. T, P., Hereford

Cathedral.

1530. Adam Graffton, Withington, Salop.

1535- Warin Penhalluryk, Wendron, Cornwall Chead
lost). ^

1550. Thomas Magnus, archdeacon, Sessay, York-
shire.

The following show the processional vestments without
the cope, thereby fully exposing the almuce ^ :—

1413. John Morys, warden, Winchester College

141 8. Wilham Tannere, Cobham, Kent (half eff.)

1419- William White, Arundel, Sussex.

1458. John Huntington, Manchester Cathedral

147 1; A son on the brass of Roger Kyngdon, Quethiock,

Cornwall.^
1480. A Priest, Billingham, Durham.
1482. Henry Sampson, Tredington, Worcs.
1489. Thomas Teylar, Byfleet, Surrey.
1494- Thomas Buttler, Great Haseley, Oxon.
1508. Edmund Croston, St. Mary the Virgin, Oxford

kneeling before St. Katherine. '
1508. Robert Sheffelde, M.A., Chartham, Kent.
1 5 10. Ralph Elcok, Tong, Salop.

1 5 14. John Fynexs, Archdeacon of Sudbury, Bury St.

Edmunds, Suffolk.

1 5 15. William Goberd, Magdalen College, Oxford.

1 Possibly in some cases the almuce was worn over the surplice in
summer, as a substitute for the cope, assumed in winter. See Du Cange,
Glossartum ad Scriptores media et tnfima Lathtitatis. Frankfurt, 1710 (Vol I
p. 158, Column 2, voc. Almucium) :— " Statuta Ecclesice Viennensis apud
^ Joan Le Lievre, cap. 26 de Canonicis : A festo S. Martini usque ad
^ Pascha portabunt capas nigras supra pellicium, et a Pascha usque ad
^testum omnium SS. portabunt superpellicium sine capa, et in capite

* capellum de gnso, quem vulgariter almuciam vocant."

2 Other examples of children on brasses of parents in this costume are:—

1487. Eldest son on brass of John Lambarde, Hinxworth, Herts.
c. 1 530. Son on brass of Richard Bulkley, Beaumaris, Anglesea.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

1522. Richard Adams, East Mailing, Kent.

1528. Robert Hacombleyn, King's College, Cambridge.

1528. Robert Sutton, Dean, St. Patrick's Cathedral,

Dublin, kneeling.
1532. John Moore, M.A., Sibson, Leics.
1537- Geoffi-ey Fyche, Dean, St. Patrick's Cathedral,

Dublin, kneeling.

1557. James Courthop, Christ Church, Oxford.

1558. Robert Brassie, King's College, Cambridge.

Monastic Orders (Male).

The scarcity of brasses of- the Monastic Orders may be
accounted for either by the destruction of religious houses,
or by the comparative poverty of the monk. The me-
morials of mitred abbots show them, as a rule, in their
pontificals, similar to those of the bishops, described above.
Foremost among such is the Flemish brass of Abbot
Delamere, c. 1360, at St. Albans, in which church may be
seen a palimpsest, the obverse of which shows the lower
part of an abbot, c. 1490, similarly vested. The fragment
m the Bntish Museum, c. 1350, has been already referred
to m the account of Flemish brasses, p. 48. At West-
minster Abbey is the brass of Abbot Estney, 1498, and
at Burwell, Cambs, the reverse of the brass of Abbot
Laurence de Wardeboys of Ramsey, shows the pontifi-
calia, whilst the obverse gives him in processional vest-
ments, cassock, surplice, and almuce.^ These brasses
showing vestments similar to those of a bishop, do not
illustrate the monastic habit ; but at Dorchester, Oxon.

on'rtirrr^° ^"^^ Price, Abbot of Conway, 1528, in cope with crozier
on nght arm, formerly existed in Saffron Walden Church, Essex See
Illustration from Cole s MSS. in the British Museum, in wS^^^^^^^^^
Essex Arch^ologtcal Society, N.S., Vol. VI. At Wendon Lof s EsTex ht
first son on the brass ofWilliam Lucas and wife, 1460, is adin p^nti
wit ^d^/yf ^ H- '^°hf H ° represent John Luca^ Abbot tfW.S^m;
a pastoral stiff ' ^'"'^ " '''''^ ^" benediction ; his left hold!

96 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

(Austin or Black Canons) is the brass of Richard Bew-
Itoreste, c. 1510, wearing over the processional vestments
instead of the orphreyed cope, a plain cope-like pallium or
cloak with a hood, and having a pastoral staff on the ri^ht
arm; a similar brass is that of John Norton, 1509 at
South Creak, Norfolk. At Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire
IS the indent of a brass ' of an abbot, described by Mr!
W. H. St. John Hope as wearing the Cistercian tunic and
cowl with a pastoral staff on the right arm, and a detached
mitre. The matrix of the brass of Abbot Godfrey de
Croyland, 1329, at Peterborough, shows the indent of a
crozier, leaning on the right shoulder. At Dorchester,
Oxon, there is a slab, commemorating John Sutton, Abbot'
c. 1349, containing the indent of a forearm with the hand
grasping a crozier.^ At Tilty, Essex, is an inscription to
Thomas of Takeley, Abbot of Tilty, c. 1450.
_ The earliest monastic habit was the Benedictine, con-
sisting of a tumca or cassock, over which was worn
the cucuUus or cowl, a large loose gown with hanging
sleeves and with a hood attached to it (see the plate
in Dugdale's Monasticon). Examples of this habit
occur at St. Laurence's, Norwich (Geoffrey Langley,
^- I437j prior of the Benedictine monastery of St. Faith
the Virgin, at Horsham, near Norwich), and at St. Albans'
Abbey (a half effigy of a monk, fifteenth century;
a monk, according to Haines, Reginald Bernewelt, 1443 ;
Robert Beauner, who held various offices in the Abbey,
c. 1460; and Thomas Rutland, sub-prior, 1521). A
modern restored example is in Ely Cathedral (John de
Crauden or Crowden, prior, d. 1341). The finest example
of a similar habit is that of Thomas Nelond, Prior of the
Clugniac Abbey of St. Pancras at Lewes, d. 1429, in

'Figured in Mr. Mill Stephenson's "Monumental Brasses in the West
Riding," m the Yorkshire Jrchteological Journal, Vol. XV.

2 Engraved in Cough's Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. I., p. loi, and in
Haines, p. Ivii. Matrices of brasses of abbots are at Waltham, Byland,
Milton Abbas, etc. ^

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Cowfold Church, Sussex.' At Norbury, Derbyshire, the
palimpsest brass of Sir Anthony Fitzherbert, 1538, and
lady, shows on the reverse of the inscription part of the
figure of a prior in cassock and cowl, c. 1 440.

The Canons Regular of St. Augustine wore over a
cassock a white rochet, girded, with close-fitting sleeves,
and a plain cope or cloak with a hood. A good example
occurs at Over Winchendon, Bucks, 15 15 (John Stodeley,
Canon of St. Frideswide's, Oxford).^ Two palimpsest
brasses show reverses of the fifteenth century, representing
monastic attire ^ :— A bust at Halvergate, Norfolk, "ffrater

Willms Jernemu " (Yarmouth); and at Denham,

Bucks, John Pyke, wearing a gown with loose sleeves
concealing the hands, girded with a knotted cord, hanging
down in front; over this a tippet and hood covering the
shoulders, similar to the Halvergate brass. The birch
represented in saltire with a baton ^ on a shield may
indicate a scholastic occupation for the deceased.

^The remains of the canopy of Abbot John Stoke, 145 i, at St.
Albans, show similar work and arrangement to that of Nelond. On the
brass lectern in Yeovil Church, Somerset, is a figure of a monk (Frat""
Martin' Forester, c. 1460) habited in girded gown and hood ; illustrated
in Somerset and Dorset Notes and Queries, Vol. IX., 1905, p. 71, "The
Lectern, Yeovil Church," by W. H. H. Rogers. At Totternhoe, Beds, is a
fifteenth century inscription for " Ffr Thoms greve q5da p'or isti' loci " ;
another is at Boxgrove, Sussex, John Rykeman, " Monachi istius loci."

^At Warter Priory, Yorkshire (Augustinian), is the incised slab of
Thomas Bndlmgton, 25th Prior, 1498, representing him in cassock,
rochet, and capa pluvtalts with hood. This is illustrated in Proceedins-s of
the Society of Antiquaries, Vol. XVIII., 1900, p. 57, in "Account of Ex-
cavations lately carried out at Warter Priory, Yorks, by W. H St John
Hope, M.A.," who writes: " Efiigies of Black Canons similarly vested,
^ but with the hoods of their cloaks drawn over the head, occur at
Cartmel and Hexham. Brasses of Black Canons occur at Dorchester
(Oxon), and South Creak (Norfolk), both abbots, and at Over-Win-
chendon (Bucks). One of a prior was formerly at Royston, Herts, but
is now lost ; the Society fortunately possesses a rubbing." The Warter
VI ; l"'''"''"'^ 5" 'Transactions of the East Riding Antiquarian Society,

3 Each IS engraved in Transactions of Monumental Brass Society, Vol IV

4 This may be a ferule. See Archaologia Cambrensis, IV. Series, Vol XII

on a scholastic ferule found in Melverley Church

H

98 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Monastic Orders {Female).

The costume of abbesses and their subordinates re-
sembled the mourning habit of widows, who, as is well
known, often retired to end their days in a convent.'

Abbesses are represented by but two existing examples: —

1. Elizabeth Hervey, elected Abbess of Elstow (Bene-

dictine) in 1520, at Elstow, Beds.

2. Agnes Jordan, Abbess of the Bridgetine Convent of

Syon, 1 544, at Denham, Bucks.

The latter wears a long gown or cowl, bound at the
waist by a girdle, with loose sleeves, beneath which appear
the tight-fitting sleeves of the undergarment ; a barbe or
chin-cloth ; a cope-like mantle, and a veil : rings are
shown on some of her fingers, the largest appearing on the
first finger of the right hand. The Elstow Abbess' cos-
tume differs from this in having a plaited barbe, and on
the right arm a pastoral staff; the sleeves of the gown,
which is ungirded, are looser ; there is no ring.

There remain a few representations of nuns on brasses.
The three following are members of the Order of Vowesses,
i.e., widows who have vowed never to remarry : Dame
luliana Anyell, c. 1500, " votricis," Witton (Blofield),
Norfolk; Diia Johanna Braham, 15 19, "vidua ac deo
dicata," ^ Frenze, Norfolk ; Dame Susan Kyngeston,
"vowess," 1540, Shalston, Bucks.

At Nether Wallop, Hants, is the brass of Maria Gore,
Prioress, 1436.^ At Dagenham, Essex, on the brass of

^ See "Widows and Vowesses," by J. L, Andre, F.S.A., Archceological
Journal, Vol. XLIX., p. 69.

^ Her mantle has long cords, and she wears a strap-like girdle.

3 In Somerset and Dorset 'Notes and Queries, Vol. III., 1893, p. 55, the
Rev. C. H. Mayo gives the will of Elizabeth Martyn, 1584, last Prioress
of Wyntney, Hants. She desires to be buried in Hartly Wintney
Church. " I would that a stone should be layde over my graue w^*" a
" picture made of a plate of a woman in a longe garment w^'' wyde
" sieves her handes joyned together," etc.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Sir Thomas Urswyk and lady (1470), the eldest daughter
is habited as a nun ; as is one of the daughters, probably
Cecily, on the brass of Thomas and Agnes Mountford,
1489, at Hornby, Yorkshire; and the third daughter,
kneeling, on the brass of Sir Thomas Barnardiston, 1503,
Great Cotes, Lines.'' At Minchinhampton, Gloucs., the
small figure of Dame Alice Hampton, probably a Syon
nun,^ c. 15 10 (represented as a child on the brass of John
Hampton, gent, 1556, and wife), has a rosary hanging
from a girdle and a ring on the third finger of the right
hand. The mantle is lacking in the effigy of Margaret
Dely, 1 56 1, Treasurer of Syon, at Isleworth, Middlesex;
which peculiarity is shared by one of the children on the
reverse of the palimpsest brass of Nicholas Suttherton
(1540), c. 1460, at St. John Maddermarket, Norwich.
At St. Mary's, Kilburn, is a fragment, considered c. 1380,
showing the head of a nun, which was found on the site
of the Priory. The wimple or barbe, in this instance,
seems to be attached to the veil by a short string.

A Note on the Chalice-brass.

The Chalice, with or without the Wafer or Host is fre-
quently found, either alone with an inscription, as a
memorial for a priest, or held in his hands, when shown
m mass vestments. The representation of this symbol
on ecclesiastical monuments fell into disuse at the Re-
formation, but has been revived in the nineteenth century
For convenience sake we may treat of this class of brass
in two divisions : —

1. The chalice with or without the wafer, with an in-
scription, but no effigy.

2. Effigies supporting the chalice, with or without the
water.

•J^^c uTn^^^'^TT^" °^ Margaret Hyklott, whose effigy is lost (probably
' On the same brass her eldest brother is shown as a monk.

loo ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

I. Norfolk possesses the greater number of these
brasses, mostly of the sixteenth century ; but in Yorkshire
are four examples of the fifteenth century, consisting of
chalices without wafers, and with inscriptions. These
are : —

1429. Richard Kendale, M.A., rector, Ripley, West
Yorks.

1460. Peter Johnson, vicar. Bishop Burton, East
Yorks.

1466. William Langton, rector, St. Michael Spurrier-
gate, York.

1469. Thomas Clarell, vicar, St. Peter's, Leeds.

Examples of the sixteenth century (chalice with
wafer : —

1502. Richard Grene, rector, Hedenham, Norfolk.

1508. Robert Northen, vicar, Buxton, Norfolk.

1 5 15. Robert Wodehowse, rector, Holwell, Beds (ac-
companied by two woodhowses or wild men).
c. 1520. Robert Wythe, chaplain, North Walsham,
Norfolk.

c. 1525. Geo. Cunynggam, vicar, Attlebridge, Norfolk.
1540. William Curtes, South Burlingham, Norfolk.

At Bawburgh, Norfolk, is a chalice with wafer (William
Richers, vicar, 1531), in which the chalice is upheld by
two hands, of which the thumbs only are seen, issuing
from clouds. A similar brass is at Little Walsingham
(William Weststow, c. 1520), in the same county. At
Blockley, Worcs., the brass of Philip Warthim, M.A.,
vicar, 1488, shows him in cassock, tippet, and hood,
kneeling beside a chalice incised in the slab. At Aid-
bourne, Wilts, Henry Frekylton, chaplain, 1508, in mass
vestments, lies beside a chalice, the bowl of which is lost.
At Fishlake, in the West Riding, was formerly the brass
of Richard Marshall, vicar, 1505, having the chalice with
wafer, shown on each side of his effigy. Above the effigy
of Sir Arthur Vernon, M.A., 1507, at Tong, Salop {see

JOHN FRYE, S.T.S, 1507,
New College. Oxford.

CHALICE BRASS— WILLIAM WESTSTOW, c. 1520,
Little Walsingham, Norfolk.

[C.B.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME lor

p. 136) is a chalice with wafer. A chalice and missal are
shown on the altar, before which St. Gregory kneels, in
the brass of Roger Legh and wife, 1506, at Macclesfield,
Cheshire.

2. Examples of the second division (in mass vestments).

{a) Without Wafer.

c, 1400. A Priest, Stanford-on-Soar, Notts.

1429. Roger Godeale, Bainton, E. Yorks.

c. 1470. A Priest, Broxbourne, Herts.

1531- John ap Meredyth, Bettws, Montgomeryshire.

{b) With Wafer.

1461. Robert Lond, St. Peter's, Bristol.

1498. Henry Denton, Higham Ferrers, Northants.

1504. Alexander Inglisshe, Campsey Ash, Suffolk.

1507. John Frye, S.T.S. Fellow, New CoKe^e,
Oxford, (half eff.).

1507. John Scolffyld, Brightwell, Berks.

1510. A Priest, Littlebury, Essex.

1 5 12. William Bisshop, Wiveton, Norfolk.

1 52 1. Radulph Babyngton, Hickling, Notts.

1531- John Athowe, Brisley, Norfolk.

1 53 1. Richard Bennett, M.A., Whitnash, Warwick-
shire.

1535- Thomas Westeley, Wyvenhoe, Essex.

The Chalice is shown on the two Flemish brasses, c. i q6o
at Wensley, Yorks, and North Mimms, Herts, (see p. 49)
lying on the breast, in the former case above, in the latter
below the hands. At Walton-on-Trent, Derbyshire a
priest, c. 1490, with Chalice and Host, is represented 'in
the act of blessmg them. Another instance, c. i C2o is
supposed to have come from the dismantled chapel' of
North Weston, Oxon.^ ^

^' I^-^-ber, 1900, Journal of

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

In the cope, worn with amice, there is one instance :—
1478. William Langley, rector, Buckland, Herts-
(chalice with wafer).

In processional vestments without the cope : —
1522. Richard Adams, vicar. East Mailing, Kent.'
(chalice with wafer).

In academicals : —
c. 1480. A Priest, with a chalice, Barking, Essex.

15 1 8. Thomas Coly, Bredgar, Kent (chalice with

wafer).

15 1 9. John Bowke, M.A., Merton College, Oxford.

(chalice with wafer), half efF.

John Yslyngton, S.T.P., c. 1520, Cley-next-the-Sea,
Norfolk, of whose costume we treat below, wearing
apparently a scarf over a fur-lined cassock, and a cap, holds
a chalice with wafer.

The chalices diifer considerably in shape and size, and
sometimes have feet {e.g., 1 500, William Abell, Coleshill,
Warwickshire; 1522, Edmund Assheton, Middleton,
Lanes., each in mass vestments).

The wafers are usually engraved, either with t/is, as in
the two brasses just mentioned, or on that at Littlebury,
Essex, c. 1 5 10; or Wc, as at Tong, Salop, 1507, and
Brisley, Norfolk, 1531, each of which wafers is rayed; or
on that of Dr. Yslyngton, c. 1520, mentioned above;" or
with a cross-crosslet as at Higham Ferrers, Northants,
1498 ; Campsey Ash, Suffolk, 1 504 ; East Mailing, Kent,
1 522 ; or Wyvenhoe, Essex, 1535. An instance of a plain
wafer^ occurs on the brass of John Stokys, Rector, 1500,
Wimington, Beds.

1 Prebendary "magne misse" in the monastery of West Mailing.

2 The wafer at Holwell, Beds, 151 5, has in addition to IHC a small
spray of foliage.

3 The First Prayer Book of Edward VI., 1 549, directs that the wafers be
" unleavened and round, as it was afore, but without all manner of print :
the Injunctions of Queen Elizabeth, 1559, direct that the sacramental

ECCLESIASTIC ?i372,
Merton College, Oxford.

[C.B.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 103

Before considering the dress of post-reformation ecclesi-
astics, a small class of brasses claims our attention.
These show neither the mass nor processional vestments,
and it is doubtful whether the garments bear any academ-
ical significance. Probably they represent the habitus
clericalis worn when out of church, the chief characteristic
of which was the cassock {yestis talaris). By the time when
any such costume is met with in brasses, the hahit seems
to have become firmly established, though there appears to
have been some difficulty in making it so in the thirteenth
century, when the laity was shocked "de habitu clericorum,
qui non clericalis videtur, sed potius militaris." ^ A
possible early instance of a clerical habit may be afforded
by the small brass, in the head of a cross at Merton College,
Oxford, representing a tonsured figure, .''1372; though
this may be an early instance of academicals. ^ At Car-
dynham, Cornwall, is the brass of Thomas Awmarle, rector,
c. 1400 (figured in Dunkin), showing the tonsure and clad
in a girded cassock, having twelve buttons, in pairs below

bread, which is to be similar to wafers or singing cakes, "be made and
"formed plain, without any figure thereupon." See Hierurgia Anglicana,
New Ed., Part II., 1903, pp. 129, 130.

1 ^ee "The Ecclesiastical Habit in England," by the Rev. T. A. Lacey,
M.A., in Transactions of the St. Pau/'s Ecclesiological Society, Vol. IV., 1 900,
p. 126, wherein evidence is produced of the wearing of the clerical habit,
cassock and gown, down to the nineteenth century; the latter is considered
a modification of the cappa clausa. See The Constitutions of Cardinal Otho,
1237, XIV. "De habitu clericorum. Quoniam de habitu clericorum,
" qui non clericalis videtur, sed potius militaris, grave scandalum laicis
"generatur." Wilkins' Concilia, Vol. I., 1737, p. 652.

2 But see account of fourteenth century civilian costume. Chap. IV. The
Merton effigy wears a garment much like the longer cote-hardie worn by
Nichole de Aumberdene, Taplow, Bucks, c. 1350, though without liripipes,
but with lappets or bands at the neck, not unlike those of Thomas Rolf,
S.L., 1440, Gosfield, Essex, where they are probably connected with the
Coif {see Chap. V.). In Paul Lacroix's Manners, Customs, and Dress during
the Middle Ages, and during the Renaissance Period, London, 1874, will be
found similar lappets from Fourteenth Century MS. p. 6, and of Fifteenth
Century, p. 370.

I04 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

the waist, an anelace (see Chap. IV.) hanging from the girdle
on the left side.

In a few instances, in some of which we find a figure
kneeling before a saint, the cassock is worn supplemented
by tippet and hood. In the absence of information
establishing the degrees of the persons so represented, it
would be unsafe to call this costume academical ; at the
same time it seems probable that some connection exists
between the two. We find, however (see pp. 139-40), two
instances of LL.B., wearing this dress (i) at Great St.
Helen's, Bishopsgate, 1482, and (2) at All Souls' College,
Oxford, 1490. Other examples are as follows: —

1405. Magister John Strete, Upper Hardres, Kent,
kneeling at the base of a bracket on which
stand SS. Peter and Paul. He wears a pointed
pileus, (see p. 128).'
1410. A Priest, Aspley Guise, Beds, kneeling on the
dexter side of a cross (lost) ; on the sinister
side of which stands St. John Baptist.
c. 14 10. Sir Wilham Calwe, Ledbury, Herefordshire,
kneeling before an effigy (lost) of St. Peter.
1420. John Whytton, Merton College, Oxford, stand-
ing on a bracket.
1422. John Lewys, rector, Quainton, Bucks, kneeling.
c. 1430. A Priest, Melton, Suffolk, standing.
c. 1450. Half Effigy, Harrow, Middlesex (.? Robert
Kyrkeham).

1474. John Child, M.A., rector, Cheriton, Kent,
standing.

c. 1480. A Priest, Strethall, Essex, standing.

c. 1485. The eldest son, kneeling, Clavering, Essex,

I The matrix of a similar figure, probably without pileus, is at Wotton-
^ under-Edge, Gloucs, (Richard de Wotton, rector, c. 1320). A brass lost
from Cirencester, Gloucs., probably John Avenyng and wife, c. 1500,
showing the second son kneeling behind his father in cassock, tippet and
hood, is illustrated, p. 209, TAe Monumental Brasses of Gloucestershire, by
Cecil T. Davis, London, 1 899.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 105

(part of the brass of — Songar, civilian, and
wife, much mutilated).'

1488. Philip Warthim, M.A., vicar, {see p. 138),

Blockley, Worcs, kneeling.

1489. Henry Mountford,"clericus," standing, Hornby,

N. Riding ; one of the group of sons on the
brass of Thomas and Agnes Mountford.
c. 1492. George Rede, rector, Fovant, Wilts, kneeling
before a representation of the Annunciation,
with his beads on his left arm. Here we have
no hood, and the tippet seems closely related
to the scarf-like garment, about to be
described.

? 1512. William Geddyng vicar. Wantage, Berks,
standing.

In a few brasses ■ of the first quarter of the sixteenth
century we find a curious short scarf (fastened to one
shoulder by a rosette, and passed behind the neck on to
the other), replacing theitippet and hood, above mentioned:
though it would be difficult to tell whether it were a modi-
fication of either one or of both of them. It seems to be
more closely connected with the tippet, and may possibly
be a form of almuce, though the latter was still in use.^
An early stage in the development of this scarf is illustrated
by the brass of an ecclesiastic {c. 1500, at North Creak,

1 Another instance may have been at Crishall, in the same county,^. 1 5 30,
see Transactions of the Essex Archaological Society, New Series, Vol. VIII.,
1903 : "Some interesting Essex Brasses," by Miller Christy and W. W.
Porteous, pp. 15-54.

2 In Seroux d'Agincourt's Histoire de P Art par les Monumens, 1823,
(Peinture, Planche CXLVII.) is an engraving after Masaccio (Fifteenth
Century), showing a church dignitary standing behind a kneeling bishop,
and wearing a cap, a gown with two slits for the arms, and a scarf, fastened
to the right and passed round the neck on to the left shoulder.

In The Reliquary and Illustrated J rchceologist, Vol. VII., 1901, p. 39,
are reproduced two paintings on Norfolk rood-screens, showing John
Schorne, at Cawston, clad in cassock, tippet, hood and pileus ; but at
Gateley, wearing the scarf-like tippet of which we are treating. See the

io6 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Norfolk, supporting a model of a church on his right arm),
who wears a cassock, from the girdle of which hang his
purse and beads, and round the neck a scarf, the ends of
which are fastened together in front by a button, giving a
cape-like appearance to the garment. Another probable
example represents William Warham, afterwards Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, and buried there in 1 532, the eldest
of four sons shown standing on the brass of Robert and
Elizabeth Warham, 1487, at Church Oakley, Hants. In
other examples the extremities are not fastened together,
but the scarf is usually attached by one end to the left
shoulder, the other end lying loose on the right shoulder.
Examples : — ^

1 50 1 . The second of thirteen sons on the brass of Robert
and Elizabeth Baynard, Laycock, Wilts, with
rosary.

1 • The second son, kneeling, on brass of Sir Thomas
Barnardiston, Great Cotes, Lines.

15 10. WiUiam Smyght, Ashby St. Legers, Northants
(head lost).

1 5 1 8. Richard Bethell, Shorwell, Isle of Wight.

c. 1520. One of four sons, kneeling, Worlingworth,
Suffolk (parents and inscription lost).

c. 1520. John Yslyngton, S.T.P., Cley-next-the-sea,
Norfolk, wears besides the scarf,^ a fur-lined
cassock, turned back towards the feet, and a

paper John Schrne, a Mediaeval Worthy, by T. Hugh Bryant, pp. 37-44.
Other papers dealing with this ecclesiastic are Master John Sihome, by the
Rev. W. Hastings Y^oSke., Records of Bucks, Vol. II., 1863, p. 60, and
Vol. III., 1869 ; Master John Schorn, by the Rev. W. Sparrow Simpson,
M.A., F.S.A., p. 354 ; and by the same author in Journal of the Brit. Arch.
Association, Vol. XXIII., 1867, pp. 256, 370; Vol. XXV., 1869, p. 334;
and Vol. XLI., 1885, p. 262.

' A doubtful example represents a tonsured son kneeling behind RafFe
Caterall, Esq., 15 15, Whalley, Lanes., with wide-sleeved cassock.

2 The Rev. N. F. Robinson in his Pileus Quadratus, {see p. 121, note i)
describes the cap as the canon's pileus rotundus without tuft or apex, and
considers the scarf to be a veil for chalice or paten, with an embroidered
cross (p. 5).

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 107

large cap with no point. He holds a chalice
with wafer {see p. 102).
Robert Godfrey, LL.B., East Rainham, Norfolk.
William Lawnder, Northleach, Gloucs., kneeling
in cassock and surplice before the Virgin and
Child (lost).
Thomas Leman, Southacre, Norfolk, in cassock
and surplice, kneeling before the Virgin and
Child. This effigy is remarkable as affording
the earliest instance on a brass of a priest
without the tonsure.

Post-Reformation Ecclesiastics.

The religious disturbances of the sixteenth century
were the cause of much alteration in ecclesiastical costume.
The mass vestments practically disappeared in Edward
VI. 's reign,' becoming superseded by other garments, which
excepting in those cases in which a calvinistic influence is
seen to predominate, are pre-reformation in origin and
character, though partaking more of the nature of clerical
habit than of sacred vestment. The First Prayer-Book of
Edward VI. (1549) prescribed for Holy Communion a
white alb plain {alba pura, i.e. without apparels) with a
vestment or cope ; assistant priests or deacons wearing albs
with tunicles ; a cope to be worn with a plain alb or surplice,
instead of a vestment, on Wednesdays and Fridays when
there was no Communion ; a bishop to wear besides rochet
a surplice or alb, and a cope or vestment " and also his
pastoral staff in his hand or else borne or holden by his
chaplain." In other ministrations the minister was to use

^The three last instances, given on pp. 80-1, of bishops in pontificalia,
can hardly be said to illustrate a post-reformation use of these vestments.
For the two first died in Queen Mary's reign, and the third, Bishop
Pursglove, refused to take the Oath of Supremacy to Elizabeth, and was
described as "stiff in papistry." Some valuable remarks on the post-
reformation use of vestments may be found in Vestments : what has been said
and done about them in the 'Northern Province since the Reformation, by James
Rainc, M.A., London, Rivington, 1866.

1522.

c. 1530.

1534-

io8 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

a surplice. The Second Prayer-Book of 1552 prohibited
alb, vestment and cope to the minister, allowing only a sur-
plice, and to the archbishop or bishop a rochet. But the
Act of Uniformity . of the first year of Queen Elizabeth
upheld the ornaments rubrick of the First Prayer-Book
of Edward VL, which rubrick has never since been super-
seded.' Unfortunately brasses throw but little light on
the observance of this rubrick ; that of Archbishop Har-
snett, 1 63 I, at Chigwell, Essex, shows the mitre, pastoral
staff, and cope ; but there is abundance of independent
evidence for the continuous use of these ornaments.^

The garments not already described are as follows :

Rochet {rochetum. It. rocheito, from word of German
origin rock), a kind of modified alb, of white linen,
either, as originally, sleeveless {sine manicis^) like the
colobium, or with close-fitting sleeves. We are con-
cerned only with its use by bishops, who wear the
chimere over it.'^ The abnormal size to which the
sleeves, familiar to us as lawn sleeves, attained, led
to their removal from the rochet, to be fastened to the
properly sleeveless chimere, thereby solving the diffi-
culty of passing the chimere over these huge sleeves
without soiling them.

^ See Haines, p. ccxxviii. ; also Marriott's Festiarium Christianutn, p
223, self.

The sculptured effigy of Bishop Creyghton, 1672, at Wells, shows cope,
mitre, and pastoral staff. Other instances of the use of the two last on
monuments of the last part of the seventeenth century, may be found
cited in Hierurgia Jnglicana, New Ed., Part I., 1 902, pp. 232-3. 5^-^ also
the Reliquary, Vol. XXII., 1881-2, p. 65, "The Mitre and Crozier of
Bishop Wren at Pembroke College, Cambridge," by W. B. Redfarn.
(Matthew Wren, D.D., Bishop successively of Hereford, Norwich and
Ely, born 1585, died 1667). This mitre is reproduced in Hierurgia
Anglicana, Part III., p. 335, 1904. Also in the Connoisseur, Vol. VII.,
p. 158 (Nov., 1903).

3 So defined by Lyndewode, possibly owing to the fact that sleeves were
an impediment " in baptizando pueros."

4 When worn uncovered, the rochet is said to denote episcopal iuris-
diction. ^

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 109

Chimere (It. zimarra, Fr. simarre), a sleeveless gown of
black satin or silk/ open in front, with arm-holes,
possibly derived from the gown with two slits
{taherdum talare\ the alternative for the cappa clausa
{see under Academical costume, p. 123, as also the Rev.
T. A. Lacey's paper, p. 128, referred to above, p. 103,
note i). If so, it has become open in front, as did the
surplice to accommodate the wig, which form is still
preserved at the Universities. We have already noted
that the chimere became, in a manner, sleeved by the
transference to it of the lawn-sleeves of the rochet.
The Rev. N. F. Robinson {Pileus Quadratus) illustrates
the habitus episcopalis of a fifteenth century bishop,
from a MS. French Pontifical (fifteenth century) in
the British Museum (Egerton MS. 1067, fol. 12), in
which a bishop wears a rochet under a taberdum
talare, and a pointed pileus. Were this tabard but
slit up the front, it would bear a striking resemblance
to the chimere.

Scarf or Tippet.'' The theories of the origin of this
garment are as full of interest as of difficulty. Dr.

^ Its colour has varied ; scarlet being sometimes found. See the Rev.
N. F. Robinson's The Black Chimere of Anglican Prelates, etc., referred to on
p. 121, note I. At Methley, in Yorkshire, St. Jerome is depicted in glass,
wearing over his rochet a blue taberdum talare with white lining. See " On
the Painted Glass at Methley," by James Fowler, F.S.A., Part II., Tork-
shire ArchaologLcal Journal, Vol. II., 1873, p. 226.

2 "Tippet, a kind of kerchief for womens Necks (commonly of Furs).
Also a long scarf which Doctors of Divinity wear over their gowns." —
Bailey's Universal Etymological Dictionary, London, 1 72 1 . 1 549. — " Whit-
" sundaie the cannons and petie canons in Paules left of their grey and
" calabre amises and the cannons wore hoodes on their surpleses after the
" degrees of the Universities and the petie cannons tipittes like other
"priestes." — Wriothesley, II., 14, quoted by the Rev. Mackenzie E. C.
Walcott, in paper on " Old St. Paul's " : Transactions of St. Paul's Eccle-
siolo^cal Society, Vol. I., p. 177. The use of a scarf as an insigne was not
confined to the clergy. Up to about the middle of the nineteenth cen-
tury the Mayor of Christchurch in Hampshire, wore a broad scarlet-silk
scarf with a narrow border of black velvet, over his gown, to distinguish
him from the councillors.

no ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Wickham Legg in his paper The Black Scarf of Modern
Church Dignitaries and the Grey Almuce of Medieval
Canons (referred to above, p. 86, note 2) derives it from
the latter, as does Bloxam,' traced through the tippet
of sables as worn in the sixteenth century, by Cardinal
Wolsey, Archbishops Warham and Cranmer, and
Bishops Fox, Ridley and Fisher, and later by Arch-
bishop Parker, immediately after his consecration
December i6th, 1559.^ The Rev. N. F. Robinson
considers this fur tippet, as also the black tippet, re-
ferred to on p. 104, to be a different garment alto-
gether from the almuce (see The Black Chimere, etc.),
and in his Bileus Quadratus produces evidence, that
spems to make it probable that the black scarf is de-
rived from the mediaeval hood of the clergy, worn
turban-wise, with the liripipe hanging down in front
Another author^ considers the black scarf a contracted
form of the cappa nigra or canon's cope ; an origin
that seems to us, to say the least, improbable. From
Its being considered a kind of stole, it became super-
seded in many places in the nineteenth century by a

^ The scarf, which is m reality the tippet answering to the ancient

• aumasse, and is not, as some have considered, perhaps from the pendant
bands hanging down in front on each side from the shoulders, derived
from the fanon or stole, a vestment nowhere prescribed as such by the

' Anglican Church. For the ancient aumasse, or tippet of sable or fur
' continued to be worn by bishops and other dignitaries of the Church
' of England in the reign of Elizabeth, during which it was in a great
^' measure superseded by a similar habit of silk, the precursor of the present
' scarf, which continued to be called a tippet down to the last century "
—"Monuments in St. Martin's Church, [Birmingham], Letter II ," by
Matthew Holbeche Bloxam, Rugby, March 2nd, 1846, in The Midland
Counties Herald, Thursday, March 5th, 1846.

2 "circa collum vero collare quoddam ex preciosis pellibus sabellinis

* (vulgo 'sables' vocant) consutum," worn with episcopal alb, surplice and
chimere.

3 The Rev. George Smith Tyack in his Historic Dress of the Clergf,
London, 1897, p. 29. ^

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME iii

black stole/ and by some Doctors of Divinity a broad
stole has been substituted for the scarf. Its use by
the prelates, mentioned above, as part of their ordinary
dress in which they went * abroad,' seems to militate
against any connection with the eucharistic stole. We
have already noted, p. 105, a peculiar kind of scarf
that occurs on a few brasses of the first quarter of
the sixteenth century. The form in which we now
find it is that of a broad silk or sarcenet scarf worn
round the neck, with the ends hanging down in front.
This was worn by doctors of divinity, heads of
colleges, members of cathedral bodies, and chap-
lains of noblemen.^ At South Pool, in Devonshire,

^ " It was retained by dignitaries, who wore it as they still do, in quire.
" Bishop Blomfield, of London, for some reason wished all his clergy to
"use it, and from them it spread to other dioceses. Then it came to be
" called a stole, and that soon led to its being made like one. Thus it
" comes that the stole is now generally used, though sixty years ago it was
"as obsolete as the chasuble was." — "The Ornaments of the Rubric," by
J. T. Micklethwaite, F.S.A., Alcuin Club Tract I., London, Longmans,
1897, p. 59.

2 The Rev. F. G. Lee, in Dtrectorium Anglicamm, p. 359, states that the
scarves of chaplains should be of the colour of their patrons' livery. On
this Professor J. C. Robertson comments as follows : — " In the Dtrectorium
Jnglicanum, p. 359, it is said that the scarf of chaplains 'is made of silk
" of the colour of the nobleman's livery to whom the cleric is chaplain.'
" As the editor of the Dtrectorium describes himself as chaplain to a noble-
" man, this is probably not to be interpreted as satire; but I do not know on
" what ground it is said." — How shall we Conform to the Liturgy of the Church
of England? 3rd Ed. revised, London, Murray, 1869, p. 108 (footnote).

The Rev. Percy Dearmer in the Parson^ 5 Handbook, London, 1899,
interpreting Canon LVIII., 1604, says, "the tippet should be worn by all
" the clergy ; of stuff by non-graduates (and presumably also by Bachelors) ;
"of silk by Masters and those above that degree" — p. 86; and p. 85,
" There is no known authority for confining the use of the tippet to
" dignitaries and chaplains ; that custom grew up in the days when the
" direction of the canons as to copes also fell into abeyance, and is paral-
" leled by the general disuse of the hood among the parish clergy at the
" same time." . . . "At Court the youngest curate is still required to
" wear the tippet with his cassock and gown " (footnote). For an interest-
ing reference to the wearing of " graduates hood, tippet and square cap,"
1604, at Badelsmere, see "Some East Kent Parish History," The Home
Counties Magazine, Vol. VII., p. 213 (July, 1905).

112 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

IS a stone effigy representing a priest, without
tonsure, of the sixteenth century, wearing cassock
surplice and scarf.' '

Three forms of gown are met with on brasses, chiefly
in the seventeenth century : —

1. A gown open in front with false hanging sleeves, after

the manner of the Oxford M.A., the arm of the
doublet coming through near the shoulder ; practically
identical with the civilian gown of the period.

2. A gown, open in front, with surplice-like sleeves, like

the Oxford B.A.^

3. The preaching gown, the sleeves of which were narrower,

and close at the wrists.^

The pileus quadratus or square cap is found on a few

^ Plate xxu., illustrating " The Sepulchral Effigies in the Parish Churches
of South Devon," by W. H. H. Rogers, Transactions of ih Exeter Diocesan
Architectural^ Society, 2nd series, Vol. II., 1872. At Ruthyn, Denbigh-
shire, Gabriel Goodman, D.D., Dean of Westminster, is shown on the
brass of his father and mother (Edward and Ciselye Goodman, 1560),
in close-sleeved gown, and a scarf. '

2 Canon LXXIV., 1604, prescribes for ordinary dress "gowns with
" standing collars, and sleeves straight at the hands, or wide sleeves, as is
" used in the Universities "— « togis cum collaribus erectis manicisque ad
"manura contractioribus, vel laxioribus, prout in academiis usitatum est."
Wilkins' Concilia, Vol. IV., p. 393.

3 " The clerical gown is described in the Canon, as having a * standing
" collar,' that is, not falling back in a lappet like the civilian's gown, and
" 'straight at the hands,' that is, with a narrow wristband : modern custom
" having, however, tucked up the full sleeve to the elbow, the narrow
" wristband no longer appearing. This gown has been objected to as not
" so regular a dress as the other ; as adopted from the Puritans, and as less
" distinctive, since dissenting teachers use it. But, in reality, it is more
"regular, as marking the clerical order, which the academical gowns do
" not. It is not adopted from the Puritans, since the Geneva gown or cloak
" was in fashion altogether different : and the dissenters may rather be
" regarded as having usurped an ancient clerical dress. Old pictures, etc.,
" will fully bear out these observations. It is always worn at the Court
"of the Sovereign. In fact, the whole tendency of our times has been,
" especially at the Universities, to mark the academical rank, rather than
" the order of the Church." T:he Choral Service of the United Church of
England and Ireland, by the Rev. John Jebb, M.A., London. Parker, 1 843

EDMUND GESTE,
Bishop of Salisbury, 1578,
Salisbury Cathedral.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 113

brasses. Its origin is dealt with by the Rev. N. F.
Robinson, who appears to derive it, as well as the scarf,
from the mediaeval hood.

The following list, which, except in the case of episcopal
brasses, makes no attempt at completeness, gives some
characteristic examples of the garments mentioned : —

1578. Edmund Geste, S.T.P. Cantab.,— Bishop of Salis-
bury, in Salisbury Cathedral, wears rochet,
lawn-sleeves, chimere and scarf, holding in his
right hand a curious short pastoral staff with
no head, and but for its pointed extremity, more
like a walking-stick, possibly corresponding to
the irarkptaaa or pastoral staff of the Greek
Church ; in his left hand a book or Textus.'

1 61 6, Henry Robinson, SS.T.D.— Bishop of Carlisle
(where he is buried, and where a similar brass
is erected to his memory). Queen's College,
Oxford, clad in rochet, chimere, lawn-sleeves,
and scarf, and a skull-cap, with ruffs at the neck
and wrists, and a curious pastoral staff (sur-
mounted by a crane, holding a stone in one claw),
the inscriptions on which have been given above,
page 77. In the background is a representation
of Carlisle Cathedral, in the doorway of which
three bishops, similarly vested, appear to be or-
daining a kneeling figure, wearing a gown with
false sleeves. In front of Queen's College, also
represented, stand three figures in square caps,
two of them in gowns with false sleeves, and
a third in one with surplice-like sleeves.

1 63 1. Samuel Harsnett, S.T.P. — Archbishop of York,

^ Bishop Geste, when Archdeacon of Canterbury, was one of the two
chaplains (the other being Nicholas BuUingham, Archdeacon of Lincoln),
who officiated as Epistoler and Gospeller, vested in cappa sericce, at the
consecration of Archbishop Parker, 1559.

114 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

Chigwell, Essex/ wears a slightly ornamented
rochet, a chimere, and a fine cope embroidered
throughout, mitre and pastoral staff. This is
the only brass of a post-reformation bishop in a
cope. At Winchester College is the headless
palimpsest brass of John White, Warden, died
1559, shown wearing cassock with undergarment,
surplice, and rich cope embroidered throughout
with pomegranates, marguerites, and Tudor roses
and with IHS on the morse, but without almuce.
This brass was probably engraved before he was
consecrated Bishop of Lincoln in 1554, from
which see he was translated to Winchester in
1556, but was deprived on refusing to take the
oath of Supremacy to Elizabeth.

The mitre, without effigy, is used in three instances as
a memorial for a bishop. These are : —

1626. Arthur Lake, D.D., Bishop of Bath and Wells,

in Wells Cathedral.
1650. John Prideaux,^ D.D., Bishop of Worcester, at

Bredon, Worcs.
1 66 1. Henry Feme, S.T.D., Bishop of Chester, in

Westminster Abbey.

^ Illustrated in Waller. Also in A Catalogue of the Harsnett Library at
Colchester, by Gordon Goodwin, 1888, which latter is reproduced in
Hierurgia JngUcana, Vol. III., 1904, p. 229. See also the illustrated
edition of Green's Short History of the English People, Macmillan, Vol. III.,
1903, p. 1056.

2 The celebrated Rector of Exeter, and Regius Professor of Divinity
at Oxford. He married Anna, daughter of William Goodwin, Dean of
Christ Church. She died 1627, and a brass inscription at St. Michael's
church, Oxford, commemorates her and two children. At Harford, near
Ivybridge, Devon, is a painting on copper representing John Prideaux and
wife Agnes, with seven sons and three daughters, erected by their fourth
son in 1639, who is depicted kneeling, wearing a black cassock and over
it a scarlet sleeveless doctor's gown or academical cope (closed in front),
with black armholes, and small black hood, a black skull-cap on his head,
and a square cap lying beside him.

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 115

In Holy Trinity Church, Guildford, is the mural brass
of Maurice and Alice Abbot, 1606. Of the six sons,
shown kneeling, the third is Robert Abbot, D.D., Bishop
of Salisbury, d. 1 617/18, and buried at Salisbury; the
fourth is George Abbot, D.D., Archbishop of Canterbury,
d. 1633, who lies buried in this church. Each wears a
gown with close sleeves, probably the cassock and a hood.^

At St. John's College, Oxford, is preserved a small
plate with arms and inscription. "In hac cistula con-
duntur exuviae Gullielmi Laud." Beheaded 1644/5.'' ^
brass inscription commemorating Samuel Rutter, Bishop
of Sodor and Man, 1662, is in St. Germain's Cathedral,
Peel, Isle of Man.3

In the following examples, where not otherwise men-
tioned, the gown with false hanging sleeves is worn,'^ the
ruff is usual, and moustache and beard become common: —

1560. Leonard Hurst, Denham, Bucks, in cassock and

scarf. (Lost, see Trans. Monumental Brass Society^
Vol. v., p. 75.)

1 56 1. William Bill, S.T.D., Dean, Provost of Eton,

Master of Trinity, Westminster Abbey, in cassock
and hood lying loosely on the shoulders.

' See " Remarks on a brass plate formerly in the Church of the H0I7
Trinity at Guildford, and now remaining in the Hospital there," by
Thomas William King, F.S.A., York Herald. — Surrey Archaological
Collections, Vol. III., 1865, p. 254,

2 Buried in All Hallows, Barking, London, but his body removed to St.
John's College, Oxford, July 1663 ; see Le Neve's Fasti Ecclesia Anglicance,
edited by T. DufFus Hardy, Vol. I., p. 27, 1854.

3 It was found in 1844, in a well in Peel Castle (see Arch: Cambrensis,
series III., Vol. XL, 1865, p. 430) and in 1875 was restored to its slab.
See "Monumental Brass to Bishop Rutter, Peel, Isle of Man," by A. Knox,
Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. II., p. 100. At Cawood,
Yorkshire, is a brass inscription to George Mountain, Archbishop of York,
1628. At Croydon, Surrey, the brass coffin-plate of William Wake,
Archbishop of Canterbury, 1737, was placed in the pavement after the
iire in 1867.

4 At Christ Church, Oxford, are three brasses of Masters of Arts, wear-
ing this gown. — 1584, Thomas Morrey ; 1 587, Stephen Lence ; 1613,
Thomas Thornton. Other examples are known.

ii6 ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME

1566. John Fenton, Coleshill, Warwickshire, in preaching

gown, with tight wristbands and full sleeves,
holding in left hand a Bible inscribed Werbu dei.*
'Bachelor of Law.*

1567. William Dye, parson of Tattisfylde, Westerham,

Kent, in cassock, surplice and narrow scarf'
1582. Nicholas Asheton, " sacre theologias Bacchalaureus
Cantabr." Rector, Whichford, Warwickshire,
chaplain to the Earl of Derby, wearing over
doublet a gown open in front with wide sleeves
and scarf.

1587. Richard Woddomes, (with wife and seven children)
Ufton, Warwickshire, "Parson and pattron and
vossioner," (occupying his own advowson).

1589. John Garbrand, * Doctor in Divinity,' Crawley,
Bucks, kneeling in close-sleeved gown, probably
the cassock, and hood.

1595. Thomas Reve, D.D., Monewden, Suffolk, kneeling

in close-sleeved gown like the last, and hood ;
a senior fellow of Gonville and Caius College,
Cambridge.

1596. Griffin Lloyd, Rector, Chevening, Kent. Doublet.
1 602. William Lucas, ' Maister of Arte,' Clothall, Herts.
1608. Erasmus Williams, Tingewick, Bucks, gown

edged with fur ; doublet.
1608. John Burton, Burgh, Norfolk.
1610. Peter Winder, Whitchurch,Oxon. "Hujus ecclesi«

Curatus." Kneeling.
1 6 10. Isaia Bures, Northolt, Middlesex, M.A., kneeling.
1 6 1 4. Humfrey Tyndall, D.D., Dean, Master of Queens'

College, Cambridge. Ely Cathedral. Wearing

over doublet the gown with false sleeves, scarf

and skull-cap.^

^Illustrated in Hierurgia Anglicanay Vol. III., 1904, p. 143.

^ A somewhat similar brass was sold at Newark, 1904, and is now in
private possession.

WILLIAM DYE, 1567,
Westerham, Kent.

\

(

ECCLESIASTICAL COSTUME 117

1 6 14. John Torksay, B.D., Barwell, Leics., shown in a

pulpit, ' wearing preaching gown.

1 615. John Wythines, D.D., Battle, Sussex, scarf and

square cap.

1 61 6. Henry Airay, D.D., Provost, Queen's College,

Oxford, (an allegorical plate similar to that of
Bishop Robinson) shown kneeling on an altar-
tomb; wearing scarf, hood and skull-cap ; doublet.
1 619. Henry Mason, M.A., Camb. Eyke, Suffolk.
Doublet.

1627. Thomas Stones, Acle, Norfolk, (half-eff.). Doublet;
skull-cap.

1627. William Procter, Rector, Upper Boddington,

Northants. Doublet ; skull-cap.
1632. Edward Naylor, (and family) Bigby, Lines., "a

faithfuU and painefuU Minister of Gods word."
1 648. Rice Jemlae, Husband's Bosworth, Leics. ; cassock,

gown with false sleeves, and skull-cap.

^At Hackney, Middlesex, is another example. The half-effigy of
Hugh Johnson, 1618, wearing the false-sleeved gown.

CHAPTER II.

THOMAS HYLLE, S.T.P., 1468,
New College, Oxford.

CHAPTER II.

OF ACADEMICAL COSTUME ON BRASSES

The subject of mediaeval academical costume, as shown
on brasses, presents many difficulties, owing, in some
measure, to the absence of colour and to the inability of
the brass engraver to depict the quality of the silk or fur
linings indicated. Professor E. C. Clark, in his learned
essay contributed to the Archteologkal Journal for 1893
(Vol. L.) has examined the available evidence.^ The use
of the same term to indicate different articles of costume
is, in itself, productive of much confusion ; but, in con-
nection with monumental brasses, we can but classify
similar examples together, deducing therefrom the dress
appropriate to different degrees, holding that, in all likeli-
hood, the deceased, when represented in academicals, is
shown in the most dignified costume agreeable to his

? The following, also, throw light on the subject : —

The same author's " College Caps and Doctors' Hats," Archceological
Jout-nal, Vol. LXL, 1904, p. 33.

The University of Cambridge from the Earliest Times to the Royal Injunc-
tions of 1535, hy James Bass Mullinger, M.A., St. John's College,
Cambridge. Cambridge, at the University Press, 1873 : and the same
author's The University of Cambridge from the Royal Injunctions 0/" 1 5 3 5 to
the Accession of Charles the First. 1 884. The Universities of Europe in the
Middle Ages, by the Rev. Hastings Rashdall, M.A., Oxford, at the
Clarendon Press, 1895. Vol. II., Part II., pp. 636-644.

"The Ecclesiastical Habit in England," by the Rev. T. A. Lacey, M.A.,
p. 126, Vol. IV., Transactions of the St. PauFs Ecclesiological Society, 1900,
in which volume (p. 313) may be found :— "The Hood as an Ornament
of the Minister at the Time of His Ministrations in Quire and elsewhere,"
by E. G. Cuthbert F. Atchley, and (p. 181) "The Black Chimere of
Anglican Prelates : A Plea for its Retention and Proper Use," by the
Rev. N. F. Robinson. " The Pileus Quadratus : An enquiry into the
Relation of the Priest's Square Cap to the Common Academical Catercap
and to the Judicial Corner-Cap," by the same author, p. i. Vol. V
Transactions the same Society, Part I., 1 90 1 . The " Habitus Academic!
singulis gradibus proprii" of the Seventeenth Century were engraved by
David Loggan in his Oxonia illustrata, 1675, Plate X., and in Cantabrigia
tllustrata, 1688, Plate VII.

122 ACADEMICAL COSTUME

degree. That this costume, as indeed universities gener-
ally, must be of ecclesiastical origin, there can be but
little doubt.' Moreover, the conferring of insignia proper,
as distinguished from costume, on the Doctor (the chair,
the hat, the book, ring and kiss of peace) would indicate
a religious significance. Some alteration of dress was, in
all probability, made to distinguish the Regent or teaching
Master or Doctor from the Non-Regent ; but it is uncertain
whether brasses throw light on the point. The terms
Professor, Doctor, and Master, seem to have been used,
interchangeably, of the highest degree; but the term
Professor, confined to the higher faculties, seems to imply
teaching ; Doctor and Master to have been applicable to
Regent and Non-Regent, the latter term becoming specially
connected with the Faculty of Arts. The differences in
costume are as much a matter of quality of material as of
varying shape ; the Bachelor being unable to use fur of so
costly a kind as that worn by his academical superiors, and
the dress appearing of a more or less sober and dignified
style as the degree, which it represented, was of a more or
less ecclesiastical nature. The gown {toga or roba talaris^
possibly in accordance with the lesser or greater degree)
was in use in the fourteenth century. Our examples are
mainly of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The
frequent representation of ecclesiastics of the higher
degrees in the ordinary processional vestments, almuce
and cope, leave us, comparatively speaking, but few
examples in academicals proper, and these, as is natural,
are to be found mostly at Oxford and Cambridge.

Broadly speaking, the articles of dress may be classed
as follows, in the order in which they were assumed : —

I. The Under or Body Garment, appearing at the
wrists, worn beneath the cassock.

* Anthony Wood considers it to be derived from the tunica talaris and
cucullus of the Benedictine habit.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME 123

2. The Cassock, probably fur-lined, and usually with fur

cuffs.

3. The Gown, which is represented by at least four

distinct varieties : —

a. A loose, full, sleeveless garment reaching to the

feet, which must have been passed over the
head, with one slit in front varying in size,
through which both arms pass. Haines tenta-
tively calls this a rochet. Professor Clark con-
siders it to be the cappa clausa, or closed cope
(prescribed by Stephen Langton, Archbishop of
Canterbury, in 1222 as a decent garb for arch-
deacons, deans and prebendaries),' under which
name we shall refer to it.

b. A gown differing from the last in having two slits,

usually showing a fur lining, through which the
arms pass, but closed in front. This is Haines'
" rochet with two slits." ^ Professor Clark con-
siders it to be the sleeveless tabard. Its length
may identify it with the taberdum talare, a view
taken by the Rev. N. F. Robinson.^

^Council of Oxford, 1222, XXVIII. "De vita ethonestate clericorum.
" Ut clericalis ordinis honor debitus observetur, concilii prssentis auctori-
"tate decrevimus, ut tarn archidiaconi quam decani, et omnes alii in
" personatibus et dignitatibus constituti, item omnes decani rurales, et
" presbyteri decenter incedant in habitu clericali, et cappis clausis utantur."
Wilkins' Concilia, Vol. I., 1737, p. 589.

* The Rev. T. A. Lacey calls it an alternative form of the cappa clausa
and identifies it with the chimere {Transactions of St. Paul's Ecclesiological
Society, Vol. IV., 1900, p. 128).

3 Transactions of St. PauPs Ecclesiological Society, Vol, IV., 1900, p. 211.
An example of this gown {taberdum talare), worked in gold thread (as is
the cassock), and showing a blue lining, with which are worn a tippet of
the same material edged with white, a red hood and a red pileus (no
point visible), is afforded by the figure of a Doctor on the orphrey of a
cope of the fifteenth century, belonging to the Pro-Cathedral of the
Apostles Clifton. This was shown at the Exhibition of English
Embroidery Executed Prior to the Middle of the Sixteenth Century,
held by the Burlington Fine Arts Club, 1905.

124

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

c. A shorter gown than the cassock, not reaching to

the ground, and, as Haines describes it, " with
loose sleeves, lined with fur, reaching to the
wrists and falling to a point behind." Follow-
ing Professor Clark we shall call it the sleeved
tabard}

d. Haines' " shorter gown sleeveless with slits at the

sides edged with fur, for the passage of the
arms,"'' considered by him, though by no means
conclusively proved, to represent M.A. costume
in the latter half ot the fifteenth century. Prob-
ably a form of sleeveless tabard. The Rev.
N. F. Robinson considers it the taherdum longum
or ad medias tibias^ as worn by the Warden in a
drawing in the Chandler MS. at New College,
representing that society, c. 1464.

4. The Tippet,'* a cape made of fur or of cloth edged or

lined with fur, in accordance with degree, derived
probably from the almuce, as being a dress of dignity
and not worn inside the plain cappa or gown as the
almuce was worn with the ecclesiastical cope, but
outside ; one reason for this being that it would be
completely concealed if worn beneath such a garment
as the cappa clausa.

5. The Hood {caputium), originally worn by all members,

graduate and undergraduate ; but after it had ceased
to be worn by the latter, it became an indication

^ The Rev. N, F. Robinson calls it *capa manicaia* i.e. sleeved cope,
ibid. The Rev. H. W. Macklin considers it a surplice. See p. 44,
Monumental Brasses, by the Rev. Herbert W. Macklin, London, 1898.

2 A similar gown of red worn over a black cassock, and under a white
fur tippet is seen in the figure of an ecclesiastic, 1 595, Plate 100, Vol. III.
Hefner-Alteneck's Trachten des chrisdichen mittelalters.

3 Transactions of St. PauPs EcclesiologicalSociety,Yo\.lV., 1900, pp. 210-1.

4 The Tippet and Hood, doubtless, originally formed one garment.
See account of Chaperon in Faurteenth Century Civilian Costume, Chapter
IV.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME 125

of degree. The undergraduate's hood was probably
of cloth unlined, whereas the graduate's was penulatum
(furred) or otherwise lined; the Bachelor being
confined to the use of less costly fur. The hood
was early supplanted by a cap as a head-covering ; but
the peak, or tip of the hood, fell down behind, and
became more or less exaggerated. This liripipium
was worn longer by undergraduates, probably for the
sake of distinction. The position in profile of the
effigies of Dr. Billingford, 1442, St. Benet's, Cam-
bridge, and of William Blakwey, 1521, Little
Wilbraham, Cambs., well shows the manner of wear-
ing and the shape of the hood ; as a rule only the part
worn round the neck appears. Li some cases in
which the cappa clausa figures, but no hood, the
latter possibly may be worn beneath the tippet, and
so hidden.

6. PiLEus,' Of this, broadly speaking, we find two kinds,
though it must be remembered that there is a con-
siderable diversity of shape shown in brasses.

a. A plain skull-cap without any point, as, apparently,
worn by Dr. Billingford and Dr. Hautryve.

h. A round, brimless cap, with a point in the centre,
called by Prof. Clark '-'-pointed pileuSj' which
appears to have been a prerogative of the
Doctorate, judging from its representation on

^ See The Rev. N. F. Robinson's Pikus Quadratus for an account of
the development of this cap. The Laudian Oxford Statutes, 1636,
ordained : i , The common pileus quadratus or catercap for graduates,
foundation scholars and choristers : 2, the pileus rotundus for commoners
and those not on the foundation : 3, the pileus quadratus for Doctors in
Theology : and 4, the pileus rotundus, probably the "John Knox laical
cap" for Doctors of Civil Law^, Medicine, Music, etc., instead of the
quadratus (p. 14). See also "College Caps and Doctors' Hats," by Pro-
fessor E. C. Clark, LL.D., F.S.A., Archaolo^cal Journal, Vol. LXI.,
P- 33, 1904-

126 ACADEMICAL COSTUME

brasses." Sometimes we find it worn as an
indication of degree with the costume of a church
dignitary, as at St. Cross, Richard Hayward,
1493, Decretorum Doctor, who wears the pro-
cessional vestments without the cope; or at
Hereford, Dean Frowsetoure, S.T.P. 1529, who
wears a splendid cope ; ^ but it is not shown on
the brass of Henry Sever, S.T.P. 1471, Warden,
Merton College, Oxford.

In giving examples we follow Professor Clark's arrange-
ment in accordance with an ordinance of Archbishop
Chichele, 141 7, thinking it necessary merely to mention

^ An incised slab was found at St. Mary's Abbey, York, representing
William Seford or Sever (Abbot, 1485, Bishop of Durham, 1502, 1505)
clad in pontificals, with mitre, and holding crosier in right hand, and
book in left ; a round doctor's cap being incised on each side of the
head (see Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, 2nd Series, Vol. XIX.,
p. 264 (March 26th, 1903). Wood describes the brass, now lost, at New
College of Thomas Gascoigne, 1457, as depicting a doctor's cap held over
the head of the effigy by two hands issuing from clouds. See "A Cata-
logue of the Brasses in New College, both Past and Present," by H. C.
Dobr6e, Journal of OXJ.B.R.S., Vol. I., No. 2, June, 1897.

2 The Rev. N. F. Robinson calls Dean Frowsetoure's cap, the Canon's
Pileus Rotundus. That Canons wore a Pileus may be proved by some
Continental Brasses, figured by Creeny : e.g., 1464 Glorius Count of
Lewenstein, at Bamberg; 1505, John de Heringen, canon, "in decretis
licenciatus," at Erfurt ; 1 505, Eberard de Rabenstain, canon, at Bamberg ;
1560, Eobanus Zeigeler, canon, at Erfurt; but he was Doctor Juris.
Deans seem to have worn a more elaborate variety; e.g., 1460, Eghardus
de Hanensee at Hildesheim ; or among the weepers on the brass of
Bishop Peter, 1456, at Breslau. A Manuscript in the Cotton Library
(British Museum) may possibly afford an early instance of an ecclesiastic
wearing a pointed pileus. See illustrations on pages 132 and 134, of an
article on "Pictures of English Dress in the Thirteenth Century," in The
Ancestor, No. V., April, 1903 — but its significance at so early a period is
doubtful. In the Bodleian Library is an illuminated parchment roll
(Ashmole Rolls, No. 45) showing the procession of Abbots, Bishops and
Temporal Peers to the Parliament of February 4th, 3 Henry VIII., from
which are reproduced the Abbots of Reading, St. Mary of York, Ramsey,
and Peterborough, at p. 66 of Reading Abbey, by Jamieson B. Hurry,
M.A., M.D. London: Elliot Stock, MCMI. Each abbot wears a
tippet and hood and pointed pileus.

JOHN ARGENTEIN, D.D., M.D., i
King's College, Cambridge.

ROBERT BRASSIE, S.T.P., 1558
King's College, Cambridge.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

127

that as at Paris the order of precedence of the Faculties
was : Theology, Canon and Civil Law, Medicine and
Arts, and that the Licentiati were those Bachelors, who
held the Chancellor's licence, but had not yet completed
the formalities necessary for the full degree.^

Sacr^ Theologi^ Professor (Doctor Sacra Theologia ;
Magister in Theologid)^ usually clad in girded cassock, be-
neath which is an under garment, cappa clausa^ fur tippet,
and pointed pileus.^ If worn, the hood does not appear.
Where not otherwise mentioned, the following six examples
conform to this style : —

1442, Richard Billingford, D.D., Master of Corpus.

St. Benet's Church, Cambridge : a kneeling

^ In the lists following will be found included some examples, in other
than academical costume, but of which the degrees are known.

- At Greatham Hospital Chapel, Durham, is an inscription on a mar-
ginal fillet, in Lombardic characters, to Magister William de Middiltoun,
"sacre Pagine Doctor," Warden of the Hospital, c. 1 3 50. The inscription
to William Hawkesworth, 1349, Provost of Oriel, in St. Mary's, Oxford,
describes him as "sacre pagine quondB. ffessor." That to Geraldus Borell,'
Archdeacon of Chichester, 1508, at Cuckfield, Sussex, as ''sacre Theologie
P'fessor" The fine Lombardic uncial inscription on the margin of Prior
Borard's slab, 1398, at Christchurch, Hants., reads "Tumba Johannis
Borard Maestri Theolo^e Prioris Decimi Noni Huius Ecclesie." The
matrix of the demi-effigy does not show the indent of a pileus.

3 A possible example of this costume is to be seen in a French Fifteenth
Century Boccaccio in the British Museum (Rothschild MS , XII ) A
red cassock with black girdle is surmounted by a blue cappa clause,' ox tt
which a white fur tippet is worn, turned up over the shoulders so as to
show the blue cloth lining, with a white hood. A high grey cap is on
the head.— The illustration here referred to, has been reproduced in the
M^^^z^^^^^ VII., No. 27, June, 1905 : "The Rothschild
MS. in the British Museum of Les Cas des Maltheureux Nobles hommes
et femmes, by Sir Edward Maunde Thompson, K.C.B. A similar manner
of wearing the tippet (but without hood), is shown on a brass (formerly in
the possession of Mr. Wilson, Tuxford Hall, Notts., sold at Newark
1904), representing an ecclesiastic clad in fur-lined cassock, fur tippet
and possibly a pileus. Two appendages, which resemble short fur-edged
liripipes belonging to the tippet, rather than pockets, are engraved on
the cassock below the forearms. 5 vcu un

128

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

figure, differing from the above description by
having a fur-lined hood, but no tippet, and
on the head a round skull-cap with no point.
1468. Thomas Hylle, P.S.T., New College, Oxford:
holding a Tau cross on which the five wounds
are represented.

c, 1480. A Doctor, St. Mary the Less, Cambridge: not
showing garment under cassock, nor a point
to the cap. The buckled belt of the cassock
is well shown.
1496. William Towne, Doctor in Theologia, King's
College, Cambridge.

c. 1500. A Doctor, Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate,
London : attributed to John Brieux, Rector of
St. Martin Outwich, 1459, though probably
of later date.

1507. John Argentein, D.D. (1504), King's College,
Cambridge : Physician to Arthur, Prince of
Wales ; shows strap-girdle of cassock.

Besides the above, the following Doctors of Divinity
should be noticed : —

1 36 1. John Hotham, Provost of Queen's College,
Oxford, Rector, Chinnor, Oxon., Magister in
Theologia (half effigy) : apparently wearing a
cassock, the gown with two slits (probably
taherdum talare\ tippet, and pointed pileus.

1405. Magister John Strete, Upper Hardres, Kent:
wearing undergarment buttoned over the
hands, cassock, tippet, hood, and pointed pileus.
It is just possible that the latter indicates a
Doctor's degree, but it may have been an
insigne of prebendarial rank in this case.

1 47 1. Henry Sever, S.T.P., Warden, Merton College,
Oxford : in processional vestments ; no cap.

1489. Thomas Barker, S.T.P., Vice-Provost, Eton Col-
lege Chapel : in processional vestments without
cope ; a round cap.

WILLIAM HAUTRYVE,
Decretorum Doctor, 1441,
New College, Oxford.

[C.B.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

129

1 50 1. William Heyward, S.T.D., Vicar, St. Helens,
Abingdon, Berks, (now on the wall) : in
Haines' M.A. I. costume (see below), cassock,
sleeved tabard, tippet and hood, with the
addition of a pileus.

1529. Edmund Frowsetoure, S.T.P., Dean, Hereford
Cathedral : in processional vestments (the cope
embroidered throughout), and pointed pileus.

1558. Robert Brassie, S.T.P., Provost, King's College,
Cambridge : in processional vestments without
cope, with pointed pileus.

The brass of John Yslyngtone, S.T.P., Cley-next-the-
Sea, Norfolk, c. 1520 : is dealt with on p. 106.

The brass at Christ's College, Cambridge, c. 1 540, attri-
buted to Edward Hawford, D.D., shows cassock, sleeved
tabard, tippet and hood ; no pileus.

Haines, p. cxxxii., gives an illustration of a brass
formerly at Hitchin, Herts., to John Sperehawke, D.D.,
1474, wearing a cassock, a very loose chasuble-like
garment without ornament,' a tippet and pointed pileus.
In Creeny's Continental Brasses is an illustration of the
brass of Magister Jacobus Schelewaerts, " parisiensis sacre
theologie doctoris," 1483, in Bruges Cathedral. He was
Professor in Theology at the University of Louvain,
1472-76, and is shown seated, giving a lecture to a class
of seven sitting at desks before him. He appears to be
wearing a cap, with his hood drawn over his head, a
cassock with fur cuffs, and a loose gown with two slits
{taberdum talare) through which his arms pass.

Decretorum or Juris Canonici Doctor. A similar
costume to that given for S.T.P. — perhaps the tippet is

^ Possibly this curious vestment was an instance of the chasuble-shaped
surplice. For a description of the latter, see "On Two Unusual Forms
o Vestments," by J. Wickham Legg, F.S.A. Transactions oj

bt. Paul s Eccksiological Society, Vol. IV., 1900, p. 141.

K

I30 ACADEMICAL COSTUME

not always fur throughout, but of cloth, with a border of
fur — is worn by : —

1 44 1 . William Hautry ve, Decretor' doctor, New College,
Oxford : undergarment, cassock, cappa clausa^
fur tippet, pileus without point.' The tippet
is turned up slightly over the shoulders, show-
ing the cloth lining. [See footnote above,
p. 127.)

1476. Richard Rudhale, Decretor' doctor, Archdeacon
of Hereford, Hereford Cathedral: in pro-
cessional vestments (the cope embroidered
throughout), and a round pileus with point.

1493. Richard Hayward, Decretorum doctor, Master of
the Hospital, St. Cross, Winchester : wearing
a pointed pileus with processional vestments
minus the cope.

15 1 7. Walter Hewke, D.Can.L., Trinity Hall, Cam-
bridge : wearing a fine cope with " sainted "
orphreys, with a curious, flat, round cap ;
restored in 1895 from a similar brass at
Tattershall, Lincolnshire, representing a Pro-
vost of Tattershall College, c. 15 10.

1 52 1. Dr. Christopher Urswick, Rector, Hackney,
Middlesex : in processional vestments, with
pointed pileus.^

1545. Thomas Capp, Juris ecc. doctor, St. Stephen's,
Norwich : wearing processional vestments, but
no pileus ; no tonsure.

^ The engraving in Waller gives the pointed pileus ; the reproduction in
the Journal of Oxford University Brass Rubbing Society, Vol. I. No. 2, June,
1897, shows no point.

2 See " The Monumental Brasses of Hackney, Middlesex," by the Rev.
J. F. Williams, M.A,, Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. V.,
pp. 62-4.

i

JOHN LOWTHE,
Juris Civilis Professor, 1427,
New College, Oxford.

[CB.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

Legum, or Juris Civilis Doctor.

14 1 2. Eudo de la Zouch, St. John's College, Cambridge : ^
with the exception of the pointed pileus, this
effigy shows the costume, cassock, sleeved
tabard, tippet and hood, to be associated below
with the degree of M.A.

1427. John Sowthe, Juris Civilis Professor, New Col-
lege, Oxford : wearing undergarment, cassock,
the gown with two slits {taherdum talare)^ a
tippet with fur edge, a hood and pointed
pileus, and a very curious development con-
sisting of two pendants or liripipes, whether
attached to the tippet or to the gown (more
probably the latter) it would be difficult to
determine.^

1 5 1 7. William Lichefeld, LL.D., Willesden, Middlesex,
Canon of St. Paul's : in processional vest-
ments, with cap similar to that worn by Dr.
Urswick.

1529. Bryan Roos, Childrey, Berks, "doctor of Lawe
sumtime p'son of this church": wearing
cassock, with wide sleeves (Haines' "ordinary
civilian's gown," p. Ixxxii.), tippet, hood, and
pileus with small point.

1589. Edward Leeds, Legum doctor, Master of Clare
Hall, Cambridge ; Croxton, Cambs. : wearing
a long gown open in front, where it appears to
be edged with fur, with false sleeves, of the
type met with in civilian costume, beneath

slab^ltiS "HT^ '^''1^' ^^Pl^^-d brass in its

slab which should be properly protected from the weather At present

132

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

which the sleeves of the doublet are shown.
There is no cap.^
1 60 1. Hugh Lloyd, Juris Civilis Doctor, Canon of St.

Paul's, New College, Oxford : shown kneel-
ing in a long open gown with false sleeves.

A similar costume to that of John Sowthe, though
without cap, and with differently shaped liripipes, may be
seen on the brass of William Goche, rector, 1499, Barn-
ingham, Suffolk, and on a brass, c. 1530, at Trinity Hall,
Cambridge, the liripipes worn with a taherdum ad medias
tihias. It is uncertain what degree it indicates ; possibly
that of B.D., as there is no doctor's cap. The half effigy
of John Whelpdall, "legum doctor," 1526, Greystoke,
Cumberland, shows him in almuce, and without a pileus,
as does that of Robert Honywode, LL.D., kneeling,
Archdeacon of Taunton and Canon of Windsor, in St.
George's Chapel, Windsor.

Utriusque Juris Doctor.

c. 1 5 10. Edward Sheffeld, Luton, Beds., Canon of
Lichfield : wearing processional vestments,
without the cope, but with pointed pileus.
1 51 5 (died 1524). Robert Langton, Queen's College,
Oxford : in processional vestments, with
pointed pileus.

At Linwood, Lines., beneath the effigies of John
Lyndewode and Alice his wife, 1419, are the effigies of
four sons and three daughters. The figure in the centre
(fourth son) appears to be wearing a cassock and the gown
with two slits {taherdum talari)^ and possibly tippet and
hood. The state of the brass makes it impossible to state
positively what kind of head-dress, if any, is worn. This

I The sculptured effigy of David Lewis, D.C.L., Judge of the High
Court of Admiralty, d. 1584, in Abergavenny Church, shows false-
sleeved gown and round cap. See the photograph in Some Account of the
Ancient Monuments in the Priory Church, Abergavenny, by Octavius Morgan,
Newport, 1872.

I

ACADEMICAL COSTUME 133

probably represents William Lindewode, Utriusque Juris
Doctor^ author of the " Provinciale," who became Bishop of
St. David's in 1442, and died in 1446. The brass at OfFord
Darcy, Hunts., of William Taylard, c. 1530, who appears
to have held this degree, shows him, kneeling, in a wide-
sleeved gown (possibly a cassock), tippet, hood, and
pileus.

Medicine Doctor.

1503. Master John Martok, Banwell, Somerset, a very
doubtful example : wearing full processional
vestments, but no pileus.

1507. John Argentein, King's College, Cambridge,
Physician to Arthur, Prince of Wales : wear-
ing the D.D. costume, already mentioned,
see p. 128.

To these may be added the following Post-Reformation
Doctors of Medicine, each wearing the false-sleeved
gown : —

1592. Walter Bailey, M.A. 1556, B.Med. 1551, Pre-
bendary of Wells 1 56 1, Professor of Physic
in the University, and Physician to Queen
Elizabeth, New College, Oxford.'

1599. Richard RadclifF, « in medicina doctor," St. Peter-
in-the-East, Oxford.

1613. Duncan Liddel, "Doctor medicus," Old or West
Church, Aberdeen : half effigy seated at table
and wearing a cap.

1 619. Anthony Aylworth, "Medicinae Doctor et Pro-
fessor Regius sub Elizab. Reg," New College,
Oxford : a hood and cap.

' M ^ Catalogue of the Brasses in New College, both past and

Pf^'^"!' 'fif^e Oxford Unwenitf

Brass Rubbing Society, Vol. I., No. 2, June, 1 897.

134 ACADEMICAL COSTUME

LiCENTiATi. The two following, "in decretis Licen-
tiati," at Girton, Cambs., are shown in processional vest-
ments : —

1492. Magister William Malster, rector, Canon of York.

1497. Magister William Stevyn, rector, Canon of Lin-

coln.

At Great Ringstead, Norfolk, is the brass of Richard
Kegell, "arciu et decretor' inceptor," rector, 1482: in
mass vestments, without stole or maniple.

Sacr^ Theologi^ Baccalaureus. The costume
proper to this degree seems to have been the undergar-
ment, cassock, sleeveless gown with two slits {taherdum
talare), tippet edged with fur, and hood, but no pileus.
Of this we have three examples : —

1 3 ^7- John Bloxham, Merton College, Oxford (prob-
ably engraved 1420).

c. 1450. John Darley, Herne, Kent. The feet rest on a
lion ; an unusual feature.

c. 1535. Unknown; Queens' College, Cambridge ; much
worn.

In other costume there are several brasses of Bachelors
of Divinity ; such as the following : —

1420. William Fryth, S.T.B., New College, Oxford,
whose effigy is concealed by the stalls.

1456. William Moor, " Sacre Scripture bacularius arte
pbatus," Tattershall, Lines., 2nd Provost of
Tattershall College, Canon of York : in mass
vestments, head bare.

1480. William Tibarde,.? S.T.B., First President, Mag-
dalen College, Oxford, in processional vest-
ments. Haines assigns this brass to a later
date and person, c. 1530.

1498. Jacob Hert, "in Theologia Baccalaureus" (in-

scription lost), Hitchin, Herts., in proces-
sional vestments.

JOHN BLOXHAM, S.T.B., AND JOHN WHYTTON,

c. 1420,
Merton College, Oxfokd.

If

I

ACADEMICAL COSTUME 135

1505. Thomas Tyard, S.T.B., Vicar, Bawburgh, Nor-
folk : in shroud.

15 17. John Spence, B.D., Ewelme, Oxon. : in cassock,
sleeved tabard, tippet and hood.

1 519. Thomas Swayn, S.T.B., Wooburn, Bucks.: in
processional vestments.

1 52 1. John Rede, S.T.B., Warden, New College, Ox-
ford : in processional vestments.

1524. WilHam Porter, S.T.B., formerly Warden of New
College, Canon, Hereford Cathedral : in mass
vestments, holding chalice with wafer stamped
with a cross-crosslet.

1530. Hugo Humfray, " magistri arcum nec non in
sacra sea theologie bachelerii," Barcheston,
Warwickshire : apparently in cassock, sleeve-
less tabard/ tippet and hood.

1558. Arthur Cole, S.T.B., President, Magdalen Col-
lege, Oxford : wearing the processional vest-
ments, with the Mantle of the Garter instead
of a cope.

Artium Magister. — Much doubt exists as to the right
costume for this degree. Haines cites an engraving in
Montfaucon, Vol. III., plate xvii., p. 68, which represents
"Jean Perdrier Pr^te, maitre es Arts", 1376, wearing a
cassock, over which is a long gown with sleeves, and
hood lined with fur ; the sleeves falling to a point behind.
Haines considers that the M.A. and B.A. dresses were
worn interchangeably; that in the fifteenth century
Bachelors of Arts and Scholars of Divinity wore a cassock,
over which was a shorter gown, with loose sleeves lined
with fur, reaching to the wrists, and falling to a point
behind {sleeved tabard)^ a cape or tippet edged witih fur
and a hood ; but that after the middle of the fifteenth
century Masters of Arts wore a cassock, a shorter gown,

I If intended for the taberdum ad medias tibias, it is wrongly engraved ;
as its skirt covers the cassock, being "talare."

136 ACADEMICAL COSTUME

sleeveless, with slits at the sides edged with fur for the
passage of the arms (sleeveless taherdum ad medias tibias)^
a tippet and hood. A good number of examples of the
former costume exists, but it is difficult to tell in every
case to which degree it belongs. The following list will,
we hope, be found trustworthy.'

ttt.f'^-' '445- John Kyllyngworth, « Magist' in Artibus," half
tabard, effigy, Merton College, Oxford.

c. 1450. A Priest, Thaxted, Essex.
145 1. Magist' William Snell, Boxley, Kent.
145 1. Magister Richard Folcard, half effigy. Pake-
field, Suffolk.

1460. Magister John Alnwyk, Surlingham, Norfolk.
H75- Thomas Mareys, rector, Stourmouth, Kent.
c. 1480. Half effigy (John Goolde, M.A. .?) Magdalen

College, Oxford.
c. 1490. John Westlake, Welford, Berks.
c. 1500. George Jassy, half effigy, Magdalen College,
Oxford.

1507. Diis Arthur Vernon, " in Artibus magri univ'si-
tatis Cantibrigie," Tong, Salop. This ex-
ample differs from the rest in the cassock
only appearing at the wrists ; the tabard reach-
ing to the feet.""

^515- John Trembras, parson, " maist of arte," St.
Michael Penkivel, Cornwall.

^ In order to save space we shall refer to the costume showing the
former gown as Haines, M.A., I., to that showing the latter, which is
comparatively rare, as Haines, M.A., II. — At Harpswell, Lines., is a
sculptured effigy showing H aines, M.A., I. costume, and in addition a
pileus, see The Antiquary, A Fortnightly Medium, etc. Vol. III., January to
June, 1873, p. 247. (Illus.)

^A similar example is at Barking, Essex, c. 1480 (?Robert Waleis,
died before i486), holding chalice without wafer. This costume is seen
in two miniatures of the fifteenth century Pontifical of Bishop Richard
Clifford (died 1421) (MS. 79 Corpus Christi College, Cambridge) repro-
duced in the Alcuin Club Collections, IV., " Pontifical Services, Illustrated
from Miniatures of the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries, with Descriptive

ii.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME 137

1518. Thomas Coly, Bredgar, Kent, holding chalice

with wafer.

1519. John Bowke, M.A., Merton College, Oxford,

half effigy, holding chalice with wafer.'

The effigy of William Taberam, c. 14.21, at Royston,
Herts., is in this costume. The inscription, now lost,
described him as " Legista pbatus." Another example is
at Broxbourne, Herts., c. 1510.

^. 1480. Unknown. Magdalen College, Oxford. Haines' m.a.,

1501. Thomas Mason, M.A., fellow, Magdalen Col- LV.lTiT

lege, Oxford. '"^^'"^
1 52 1. William Blakwey, M.A., Little Wilbraham,

Cambs. : shown kneeling.
1523. Nicholas Goldwell, M.A., fellow, Magdalen

College, Oxford : no tonsure.

At Chartham, Kent, is the brass of Robert ShefFelde,
"artium magist'," 1508, in processional vestments
without the cope. Examples of M.A.'s in mass
vestments may be seen at Fladbury, Worcs., Wm.
Plewme, 1504; at Whitnash, Warwickshire, Richard
Bennett, 1531, with chalice and wafer; and elsewhere.

Notes and a Liturgical Introduction," by the Rev. W. H. Frere, 1901.
Fig. 10, Presentation of the Bishop-Elect, two tonsured figures in red and
ermine and blue and ermine respectively (? Proctors), and Fig. 13, the
Installation of an Abbot, who wears a cope over amice and alb ; a ton-
sured figure in red and ermine ('Archdeacon or Bishop's Commissary).

^ The brasses of Thomas Coly and John Bowke, together with that
mentioned above, of John Spence, B.D., 1 5 1 7, Ewelme, Oxon., and the
brass of Walter Charyls, M, A., 1502 (| efF.) Magdalen College, Oxford,
show on the tabard in addition to the sleeves two slits which may possibly
be liripipia, but which it is not unreasonable to suppose may be intended
for pockets. Haines (p. Ixxxv.), considers that they "present apparently
a combination of the dresses of the Bachelor of Arts, and Master of Arts."
These lappets (or pockets ?) are shown on the brass of Walter Smith, M.A.,
Fellow, 1525, Eton College, whose dress consists of a fur-lined cassock,
the shorter gown with full sleeves, tippet and hood. In the same chapel
the brass of Thomas Edgcomb, Vice-Provost, 1545, shows cassock, wide-
sleeved gown and large hood.

138 ACADEMICAL COSTUME

Haines* M.A.,
I. sleeved
tabard.

Thomas Wilkynson, 151 1, « Arcium magistri," Orping-
ton, Kent, wears full processional vestments. Ralph
Vawdrey, M.A., 1478, Magdalen College, Oxford, wears
cassock, tippet, and hood (half effigy), as does Philip
Warthim, M.A. (1488), Blockley, Worcs.

Sacr^ Theologi^ Scholaris. Probably those of
this degree were already Masters of Arts.

1447. Geoffi-ey Hargreve, S.T.S., fellow. New College,
Oxford.'

145 1. Walter Wake, S.T.S., fellow. New College,
Oxford, half effigy.

1478- Thomas Sondes, S.T.S., Magdalen College, Ox-
ford.

Haines' M.A.
II. sleeveless
taberdum ad
medias tibias.

1508. John London, M.A., S.T.S., New College,
Oxford, scribe of the university.

1494. Walter Hyll, M.A., S.T.S., Warden, New Col-
lege, wears processional vestments, with his
initials on the orphreys of the cope.

1507. John Frye, S.T.S., fellow. New College, half
effigy, wears mass vestments, holding chalice
with wafer.

Juris Canonici or In Decretis Baccalaureus.

146 1. Magister Philip Polton, " Baccallri Canon,"
Archdeacon of Gloucester, All Souls' College,
Oxford, kneeling (head gone), showing pro-
file : undergarment, cassock, surplice, and
^. almuce ; over all a plain cope with academi-
cal hood.

^ Two fragments, forming the reverses of two palimpsest shields at
Tolleshunt Darcy, Essex, show a similar costume to that of Hargreve, with
the exception that the mitten sleeves of the undergarment appear, c. 1420.
Illustrated in Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society, Vol. IV., p. 112.

GEOFFREY HARGREVE, S.T.S.,
New College, Oxford.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME 139

141 9. John Desford, " Juris Canonici Bacallari," Canon

of Hereford, New College, Oxford : in pro-
cessional vestments.
1 42 1. William Dermot, Kinnersley, Herefordshire,
half effigy : in mass vestments.

c. 1456. Roger Gery, "in decretis bacularius," Rector,
Whitchurch, Oxon. : in mass vestments,
holding chalice with wafer.
1458. John Huntington, " Baccalaureus in decretis,"
Manchester Cathedral : in processional vest-
ments, without the cope.

c, 1500. Stephen Hellard, " in decretis Bacallarius," died
1506, Canon of St. Asaph, Rector, Stevenage,
Herts. : in processional vestments.

151 8. John Aberfeld, "in decretis bacc," Great Cress-

ingham, Norfolk : in processional vestments
without the cope.

1519. John Wryght, " clicus in decretis bacalarius,"

formerly Master of Trinity Hall, Cambridge,
Rector, Clothall, Herts. : in mass vestments,
holding chalice with wafer.
1535. Warin Penhallinyk, Wendron, Cornwall, "in

decretis baccallareus" : in cope (head lost).
At Duxford, Cambs., is an inscription to Thomas
Wyntworth, vicar, 1489, " Baccalari injure Canonico."

Juris Civilis or Legum Baccalaureus. The three
following wear the sleeved tabard. (Haines' M.A., I.
costume.)

1420. John Mottesfont, LL.B., Lydd, Kent.

1478. Richard Wyard, " [Baccajlarii Juris," fellow,
New College, Oxford, holding a Tau cross.

1 5 10. David Lloyde, LL.B., All Souls' College, Ox-
ford, half effigy.

1482. Nicholas Wotton, "baccalarii legis," Great St.

Helen's, Bishopsgate, London, removed from

I40

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

St. Martin, Outwich), wears cassock, tippet
with fur edge, and hood. Similar to which is
1490. Richard Spekynton, LL.B., fellow, " commissary
and official of Buckyngham," All Souls'
College, Oxford.

To these may be added the following, not in academi-
cals : —

1448. William Skelton, LL.B., "prepositus" of Wells,
Ashbury, Berks. : in processional vestments.

1458. Thomas Mordon, LL.B., Fladbury, Worcs.,
half effigy : in processional vestments.

1472. Thomas Flemyng, LL.B., fellow, New College,
Oxford, an emaciated effigy in shroud.
c. 1490. Thomas Tylson, B.C.L., vicar, Aylsham, Nor-
folk : in processional vestments, without cope.

1501. Thomas Worsley, LL.B., Wimpole, Cambs. : in
processional vestments.

1 54 1. Master Thomas Dalyson, "bachelor of lawe
and sumtyme parson of this church," Clothall,
Herts: in processional vestments, without
almuce.

1 63 1. Jerome Keyt, "Legum baccalaureus," Wood-
stock, Oxon., kneeling : wearing over doublet
gown with false sleeves and hood.

Utriusque Juris Baccalaureus.

1456. Richard Drax, priest, " in utroq' jure Baculari,"
half effigy, Brancepeth, Durham : wearing the
sleeved tabard (Haines' M.A., L)."
c. 1500. William Jombharte^), kneeling: in mass vest-
ments, Blockley, Worcs.

Physics Baccalaureus.
c. 1480. John Perch, M.A., " Bacallarius Physice,"

^ An inscription is at Walthamstow, Essex, commemorating Henry
Crane, vicar "quonda Bacallari' utriusque Juris." 1436.

I

CCB.

ACADEMICAL COSTUME 141

Chaplain to the Bishop of Winchester, for-
merly at Magdalen College, Oxford : in pro-
cessional vestments.

Artium Baccalaureus.

1479. John Palmer, B.A., fellow. New College, Ox-
ford : in sleeved tabard (Haines' M.A., I.).

1 524. John Barratte, B.A., fellow, Winchester College :
in sleeveless tabard (Haines' M.A., II.).

1 5 15. William Goberd, B.A., Archdeacon of Salop,
Magdalen College, Oxford : in processional
vestments, without cope.

1 613. Nicholas Roope, B.A., of Broadgates Hall, St.

Aldate's, Oxford : wearing over doublet a long
gown with false sleeves, and a hood.

Student of Civil Law.

1 5 10. Thomas Baker, All Souls' College, Oxford, half
effigy, wearing a belted tunic, a fur-sleeved
gown with a mantle fastened on the left
shoulder, with the front part thrown over the
right arm, and a hood.

The brass of an undergraduate may be seen in St.
Mary the Virgin, Oxford, representing Edward Chernock,
of Brazenose College, 1 581, in his sixteenth year, wearing
the false-sleeved gown, and kneeling in a panelled room.

Schoolboys.' The following instances of schoolboys
may be noted : —

1430- John Kent, scholar of Winchester, Headbourne

In TheJnttquary, Vol. I., January to June, 1880, p. 277, is given a
school-boys bill, A.D. 1547 (in Navy Accounts, Exch. Q.R., Bundle
616 E.) showing that Raphe Lyons' equipment consisted of: coat two
shirts, two pair of hose, doublet, two dozen points, girdle, cap, purse and
pair of knives. o ' r

142

ACADEMICAL COSTUME

Worthy, near Winchester: wearing gown with
full sleeves, close at the wrists.

1 5 12. John Stonor, scholar of Eton, Wyrardisbury,
Bucks., wearing a long gown fastened on the
right side, with tight sleeves, girded, and
faced with fur, and a peculiar cap, with flaps
covering the ears.

1 5 12. Thomas Heron, Little Ilford, Essex, aged four-
teen, wearing a cassock-like tunic or gown,
with a waistbelt from which hang his penner
and inkhorn.

Note. — Doctor of Music. A brass to Robert Fairfax,
Doctor of Music (Cambridge, 1504; Oxford, 151 1), died
1 52 1, organist of St. Albans, formerly existed in St.
Albans Abbey. See " The Brasses and Indents in St.
Albans Abbey," by William Page, F.S.A., The Home
Counties Magazine^ Vol. I., 1899, page 160.

CHAPTER III.

SIR ROGER DE TRUMPINGTON, 1289,
Trumtington, Cambs.

[C.B.

CHAPTER III.

OF MILITARY COSTUME ON BRASSES

In the following account of arms and armour we do not
propose to trace their origin and development prior to the
time when they appear on brasses. These may be studied
in the great works on Costume, which are mentioned in
the list of books appended to this volume, especially in
Meyrick's Critical Inquiry. The development of defensive
armour is, naturally, found to correspond with that of the
weapons opposed to it ; and the ultimate superiority of
the latter, due to the introduction of fire-arms, led, as
naturally, to the abandonment of the former. We are for-
tunate in the survival of a very fine series of brasses from
the reign of Edward I. to the final disuse of armour in
the seventeenth century, which illustrate the different
changes which necessity or fashion introduced.

The earliest brasses in England representing armour
consist of four full-length and two half-ef!igies. These,
with the exception of the Croft brass, belong to the reign
of Edward L, and from a prominent characteristic, have
been classed as the Surcoat Period. They are : —

1277. Sir John D'Aubernoun, Stoke d'Abernon,
Surrey.

1289. Sir Roger de Trumpington, Trumpington,
Cambridge.

1302. Sir Robert de Bures, Acton, Suffolk.
c. 1306. Sir Robert de Setvans, Chartham, Kent.'
c. 1290. Sir Richard de Boselyngthorpe, Buslingthorpe,
Lines, (half efHgy).

1310. A half effigy. Croft, Lincolnshire.

^ A palimsest fragment, c. 1300, on reverse of the half-effigy of a lady
^. 1360, at Clifton Campville, Staffs, shows a portion of a knight, some-
what similar to the Setvans brass.

146 MILITARY COSTUME

Chain mail is the chief defence of all these. They are
usually described as belonging to the Complete Mail
Period, although we find genouiilieres or poleyns, possibly of
plate, covering the knees. The mail (Fr. mai/le) is repre-
sented in two ways, either interlaced, as at Stoke d'Abernon,
Acton, Chartham, and Buslingthorpe ; or banded, that is,
apparently sewn to a foundation in parallel rows or bands,
as at Croft and Trumpington ; though in the latter the
lines separating the rows of links are not engraved.

Of chain mail were worn : —

Hawberk' on the body and arms ; the gloves, not divided
into fingers, being of one piece with the sleeves, and
fastened by a leather strap round the wrists.

Coif de Mailles, or hood, covering the neck and drawn
over the head, thereby encircling the face and covering
the chin ; kept in place by an interlaced strap across
the forehead. Under it a scull-cap or cerveliere was
worn.

Chausses, or stockings, covering the feet and legs ; over
which were worn : —

1. Genouillieres or Poleyns, protections for the

knees {knee-cops\ often much ornamented,
made either of a prepared leather, called cuir-
bouilliy or of steel-plate.

2. Spurs, consisting of single points, goads, or

« pricks;' fastened by a strap across the instep
and under the foot.
Beneath the hawberk was worn the Hauketon or gam-
beson, a quilted leathern garment, usually stitched in
parallel vertical lines and stuffed with cotton, to prevent

"The hawberk, covering body"^ arms, and reaching to the knees
with hood and gloves all of one pece .s well shown m ^ MS °f the
Apocalypse in the British Museum (Royal MS., 19. B. xv. ^^^^
"The loosing of the Four Angels which are bound in the Great River
Euphrates;- illustrating "English Costume of the Early Fourteenth
Century."— Ancestor, No. VIL, October, 1903.

MILITARY COSTUME 147

the mail hawberk, which in the case of Sir Robert de
Setvans appears to be unhned, from chafing the skin. It
may be seen both beneath the skirt of the hawberk and
on the wrists of the Setvans effigy.

Over all was worn the Surcoat or hliaus^ probably to
screen the mail of the knight from the sun's heat and from
the rain, and also, when embroidered with his arms, as on the
Setvans brass, to distinguish him, as did the shield. This
was made of linen or silk, with a fringed border, and hung
loosely to below the knees, being slit up before and behind
for convenience in riding. In our examples it is without
sleeves, being laced up either at the side or back, and con-
fined at the waist by a narrow cord.

On the shoulders were strapped Ailettes ; rectangular
pieces of leather covered with silk and fringed; often
bearing the arms of the wearer.

The Shield, which was either /^^-^/^r-shaped as on the
D'Aubernoun brass, or concave to the body, as at
Trumpington, Acton, and Chartham, bore the arms of the
wearer, and was worn on the left shoulder, being fastened
by ^guige, often much ornamented,^ passing over the right
shoulder, either above the coifde mailles as on the D'Auber-
noun brass, or beneath it as on that of Sir Robert de
Bures.

The large Sword, with cross-piece {quillons) and orna-
mented pommel, was worn in front, inclining to the left,
and fastened to a broad belt buckled over the hips. The
scabbard was often finely worked, as at Trumpington, with
the wearer's arms, or at Chartham.

^ Vol. VI. of F 'Justa Monumenta illustrates and describes a fragment of
the surcoat of William de Fortibus, 3rd Earl of Albemarle U. 1260),
whose wife was Isabel, sister and heir of Baldwin de Redvers, Earl of
Devon. "It consists of a coarse lining, on which fine linen has been
^ laid; and on this are worked, with coloured linens sewed on, and em-
broidery, coats of arms ; in the centre is a shield displaying, or, a lion
rampant azure, Rivers ; on each side a cross patonce vaire, Albemarle."
^ With roses and fylfot crosses on the D'Aubernoun brass.

148 MILITARY COSTUME

Besides the above, the following points should be
noted : —

1277. Sir John U Aubernoun is not cross-legged, and has
no ailettes. His is the only instance of the
principal effigy on a brass bearing the lance^
which rests on the right shoulder, bearing
beneath its head a pennon or gonfanon charged
with his arms. The lion at his feet grasps
the staff of the lance in its mouth. The
shield bears : — Azure, a chevron or ; the blue
enamel of which still survives {see p. 8).
The Lombardic inscription on the edge
of the slab, has lost its brass lettering, but
reads : —

+ SIRE : lOHAN : DAVBERNOVN : CHIVALER : GIST

: ICY : DEV : DE : SA : alme : eyt : mercy.

1289. Sir Roger de Trumpingtons head rests on his tilting
helm (a feature not shared by the other effigies).
This is large and conical,' and is made fast by
a chain to the girdle of the surcoat. At the
apex is a staple, to which the cointisse — a silk
scarf, originally worn over the armour, as a
lady's favour, was attached. The shield and
scabbard bear: — Azure, crusily and two
trumps in pale or ; which coat, with the addi-
tion of a label of five points, is seen on the
ailettes. A dog, on which the feet rest, holds
the houterolle or chape of the scabbard in its
mouth. The inscription, which no longer
exists, was on a fillet of brass, on the edge of
the altar tomb, which is surmounted by a
canopy.

1302. Sir Robert de Bures has no ailettes. The shield

I The aventaille, or piece to protect the face, in which slits were made
to admit the air and light {pcularia), is hidden. These slits, in the
sugar-loaf helm, were usually cruciform.

MILITARY COSTUME 149

bears : — Ermine on a chief indented sable, two
lioncels or. Below the hawberk are seen,
covering the legs above the knees, costly
chau9ons or breeches {cuisseaux gamhoish)
ornamented with fleurs-de-lis^ etc., in what
was called ouvrage de pourpointerie. The
fringed ends of these breeches appear below
the genouillieres. The feet rest on a lion
couchant. The Lombardic inscription is
given by Waller as follows : —
4- SIRE : robe[rt : de : bvres] : gist : ici :
DEV : DE : SA : alme : eyt : mercy : kike :
PUR : LALME : p[rier]a : qvara[v]nte : iours :
DE : pa[r]dvn : avera.
1306. Sir Robert de Setvans dijffers from the foregoing in
having his head bare, exposing his flowing
curled hair, and showing the coif de mailles
falling loose about his neck. The hands, too,
are bare, the gloves hanging from the wrists,^
which show a buttoned garment, probably
the sleeves of the hauketon, which appears
beneath the mail hawberk. The surcoat and
ailettes are charged with winnowing fans,^
which also appear on the shield bearing : —
Azure three winnowing fans or ; the guige of
which passes over the left shoulder instead of
the right. The feet rest on a lion couchant,
much mutilated.

Each of these knights appears to be clean-shaven, and
has the hands clasped in prayer. All but the first are
cross-legged : but as to any crusading significance in this
attitude, Sir Roger de Trumpington affords the only
evidence.

^ A later example of this is illustrated in Shaw's Dresses and Decorations,
Vol. I., 1843. "Effigy of Charles, Comte d'Etampes, in the Royal
Catacombs at St. Denis, d. 1336."

2 The motto of this family was " Dissipabo inimicos Regis mei ut
paleam."

ISO MILITARY COSTUME

Of the two half-efEgies : —

c. 1290. Sir Richard de Boselyngthorpe vitdss plain ailettes,
and on his hands, which clasp a small heart,
gloves formed of fish-scale-like overlapping
plates,'^ attached to leather. The strap fasten-
ing the coif is well shown. There is no shield.
The head rests on two cushions. The Lom-
bardic inscription runs : —

-f- ISSY : GYT : SIRE : RYCHARD : LE : FIZ : SIRE

: JOHN : DE : boselyngthorpe : del : alme :
DE : KY : DEVS : eyt : mercy.

c. 13 10. The Croft effigy ends below the elbows, and has
neither shield nor ailettes. The most notice-
able point is the banded mail. The Lom-
bardic inscription reads : —

ICI GIST SIR BY, PUR DEU Pr[iEZ PUR

LUI KE DEU De] SA ALME EYT MERCI.

Matrices of brasses of the Surcoat Period may be seen
at: —

Emneth, Norfolk ; Sir Adam de Hakebech, c. 1 290-1 300.
Norton Disney, Lines.; Sir William d'Iseni, c. 1300 (the
matrix appears to show rowell spurs).

Linwood, Lines.; Sir Henry on bracket, c. 1300.

Hawton, Notts.; Sir Robert de Cumpton, 1308.
Aston Rowant, Oxon. ; Sir Hugh le Blount, 13 14.
Stoke-by-Neyland, Suffolk; Sir John de Peytone, .?i3i8.

Two brasses of cross-legged knights, of the reign of
Edward IL, may be said to mark a transitional period.
They have both lost pedimental canopies, shields, and in-
scriptions : —

I Compare the vambraces of Sir John de Northwode, 1330* at
Minster, Kent, and the sollerets of Sir Adam de Clifton, 1367, Meth-
wold, Norfolk, and of William Cheyne, Esq., 1375, Drayton Beauchamp,
Bucks.

MILITARY COSTUME 151

c 1320. Sir Fitz Ralph, Pebmarsh, Essex/

c. 1320. Sir de Bacon, Gorleston, Suffolk; lacking

legs below the knees.
These conform to the costume above-mentioned, but
wear plate armour in addition, viz. : —
Demi-plates, fastened by arming-points for the protection

of the arms {brassarts), and consisting of Rerebraces

{arriere bras) on the upper arms, and Vambraces

{avant-hras) on the fore-arms.
CouTES or CouDiERES at the elbows (also called cuhitiere,

elbow-cop).

Roundels, circular plates with spikes or knobs, at the

shoulders and in front of the elbows.
Jambs or Jambarts, plates protecting the shins (sometimes

called bainbergs).
SoLLERETS, Overlapping oblong plates, or lames^ riveted

together, worn on the upper part of the foot, and

fastened by straps over the mail.

The Pebmarsh knight wears interlaced mail, embroi-
dered chau^ons above the knees, and a curved shield,
much mutilated, which bore : — Or three chevrons gules,
each charged with as many fleurs de lis argent. The sur-
coat is fringed, but otherwise plain. The feet rest on a
dog. There are no ailettes.

The Gorleston effigy shows banded mail, ailettes,^ placed
lozenge-wise, and charged with a cross, and a heater-shaped

shield, bearing : — a bend lozengy on a chief two

mullets pierced.^

^ Three fragments exist of the Lombardic uncial inscription on mar-
ginal fillet. See T^he Essex Review, Vol. X., 1 901, p. 87. ^ee also " Notes
on the Brass of Sir William Fitz Ralph in Pebmarsh Church, Essex," by
John Piggot, F.S.A., The Reliquary, Vol. IX., 1868-9, P- ^93-

* Ailettes may be seen on sculptured effigies at Clehongre, Hereford-
shire ; Great Tew, Oxon. ; Ash, Kent, and St. Nicholas, Newcastle-on-
Tyne.

3 The arms of Bacon, of Redgrave, Suffolk, are : — Gules, on a chief
argent two mullets pierced sable.

152 MILITARY COSTUME

The Mixed Mail and Plate Period is well illustrated
on three brasses, which show the cyclas taking the place of
the surcoat, and are, therefore, said to belong to the Cyclas
Period/ These are : —

1325. Sir John de Creke (with lady), Westley Water-
less, Cambs.

1327. Sir John D'Aubernoun II., Stoke D'Abernon,
Surrey (son and heir of the knight above-
mentioned).

c. 1330. Sir John de Northwode (with lady), Minster,
Kent.

The Cyclas was an outer garment, closer-fitting than
the surcoat, and much shorter in front than behind, where
it reached to the knees. This curtailment was due, pro-
bably, to the greater convenience in riding thereby ob-
tained. It was laced up at the sides, and the slits were at
the sides, instead of in front and behind as on the surcoat.
In the mail, which is banded, we note the following differ-
ences. The hawberk is shaped to a point in front, and
the sleeves end just below the elbows. The coif de mailles
is superseded by the camail^ fastened to a pointed bascinet
by means of a lace passing through staples called vervelles.

Steel vambraces are seen at the wrists, passing beneath
the sleeve of the hawberk, and encircling the fore-arm.

Sir John de Creke wears rowell spurs, roundels at elbow
and shoulder, representing lions' heads,^ and plain coutes.

' Good examples of the Cyclas period in sculptured effigies are
afforded by the following monuments : A knight of the Pembridge
family, Clehongre, Hereford ; Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford,
Hereford Cathedral, 1321 ; John of Eltham, Earl of Cornwall, 1334,
in St. Edmund's Chapel, Westminster Abbey ; Sir John de Ifield, Ifield,
Sussex, d. 13 17 (probably engraved later); Sir Oliver de Cervington,
Whatley, Somerset, c. 1348. The sinister half of a brass shield, which
may have belonged to the monument of John of Eltham, was presented
by Sir Alexander Campbell, Bart., to the Museum of the Society of
Antiquaries of Scotland. See their Proceedings, Vol. VI., 1868, p. 204.

2 Leopard-faced mammelieres are seen on a stone effigy of a knight at
St. Peter's, Sandwich, Kent.

MILITARY COSTUME 153

His cyclas is confined by a narrow girdle at the waist.
His heater-shaped shield, held in place by a guige passing
over the right shoulder beneath the camail, bears : — Or on a
fess gules three lozenges vair. The curtailment of his
cyclas in front makes visible the hauketon and hawberk.
Immediately above the latter a rich dress appears embroi-
dered with rosettes, and with escalloped and fringed
border, called tht pourpoint.^ Waller gives the inscription,
now lost, which was engraved on a brass fillet : —
4- ici : GIST : LE : corps : sire : iohan : de : crek : et :

DE : DAME : ALYNE : SA : FEME : DE I QVY : ALMES : DIEV :

EYT : MERCY.

Sir John D'Aubernoun wears prick spurs and plain
roundels. The guige of his shield is not visible ; nor is
there a waist-belt over the cyclas. The arms on the heater-
shaped shield are those of his father, whose brass is
described above. The inscription was in Lombardic
lettering.

The effigy of Sir John de Northwode differs much in
style from the other two, showing pecularities which have
caused it to be attributed to French workmanship (see
p. 56). The part below the genouillieres is a late and
incorrect restoration. The border of the camail is en-
grailed. The bascinet is of a more swelling form than
the fluted head-pieces of Creke and D'Aubernoun, There
are no rerebraces, and the vambraces are of scale-work.
On the left breast is a mammeliere^ (a steel plate fastened
beneath the cyclas to the hawberk or to th.Q plastron de fer,
an early form of breastplate), to which is attached a chain
passing over the left shoulder, and probably sustaining

^ On the Creke brass some consider this pourpoint to be in reality two
garments, owing to the presence of both fringe and escalloped border,

2 The use of mammeli^res is well shown on the brass of Willem
Wenemaer, 1325, at Ghent (illustrated in ArchceologLcal Journal, Vol,
VII., 1850, and in Greeny), where the mall hawberk to which they are
attached, is seen through slits in the surcoat. They secure by chains the
sword and dagger, ^ee also stone effigy of a member of the Salaman
family, c. 1320, Horley, Surrey,

154 MILITARY COSTUME

the tilting helm. The large shield rounded to the body
hangs on the hips from a long guige passing under the
camail on the right shoulder, and bears : — Ermine a cross
engrailed gules/

A short period of transition is represented by the
following : —

1347. Sir Hugh Hastings, Elsing, Norfolk. (Flemish,
see p. 43).

1347. Sir John de Wantyng or Wanton (with lady),

Wimbish, Essex.

1348. Sir John Giffard, Bowers Gifford, Essex.

These wear close-fitting juponSy which, however, still
retain the loose skirt of the cyclas, but of equal length
before and behind.

The brass of Sir Hugh Hastings is the most important
of the three ; for, in addition to the central figure, the
sides of the canopy contained eight historic personages
(of which two are lost), all wearing this early kind of
jupon. Sir Hugh Hastings wears a rounded bascinet
with a moveable vizor, a steel collar or gorget over the
camail, genouillieres with spikes, and rowell spurs. The
cuffs of the hawberk hang down, showing the hauketon
below. Above the knees appear pourpointed cuisseaux.
The hands are bare. There are no jambs. The heater-
shaped shield and the jupon each bear the Hastings arms : —
Or, a maunche gules, with a label of three points azure.
The maunche is richly embroidered.

The figures in the side shafts are in mixed mail and
plate armour, varying somewhat in detail ; some having
more, some less plate defences. Epaulieres or shoulder-
plates appear ; the spurs are of the prick kind, and the
coutes and genouillieres have spikes.

^ Possibly this should be blazoned : A cross engrailed between twelve
chestnut leaves ; for Northwood Chataigniers.

I.

SIR HUGH HASTINGS, 1347,
Elsing, Norfolk.

C.B.]

II

KING EDWARD III.
From the Hastings Brass,
Elsinc, Norfolk.

C.B.]

(

J

MILITARY COSTUME 155

On the dexter side : —

1. Edward III., wearing a crown, but no shield. His
jupon bears : — France and England quarterly, i and 4, az.
sem6e of fleurs de lis or ; 2 and 3, gules three lions pas-
sant gardant in pale, or; which coat he assumed in

1341-

2. Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, wearing a
pointed bascinet with vizor up, and holding a lance with
pennon in the right hand, but without shield. His jupon
bears : — Gules a fess between six crosses-crosslet or.

3. Lost. A member of the Despencer family.

4. Roger Grey, Lord Grey de Ruthin. The arms
crossed, the head bare; the shield hanging at the hip
bears : — Barry of six arg. and az., in chief three torteaux.
In 1905 this figure was restored to Elsing by the
Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge.

On the sinister side : —

1. Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lancaster, holding in
the right hand his tilting helm, on which is a lion for crest,
and in the left a short lance with pennon. His jupon
bears : — Gules three lions passant gardant or, a label of
three points az., each charged with as many fleurs de lis or.

2. Lost. LawrenceHastings, Earl of Pembroke, whose
shield, bearing : — Hastings quartering Valence, Barry of
ten, argent and azure, an orle of martlets gules, is quoted
as one of the earhest examples of a subject quartering
arms.

^ 3. Ralph, Lord Stafford, holding in the left hand a lance
with pennon ; the shield, hanging on the left hip, and the
jupon bear : — Or a chevron gules.

4. Almeric Lord St. Amand, wearing the chap elk de fer^
or kettle hat, over his bascinet (an unique occurrence on
a brass) and a gorget of plate. His shield and jupon bear:—
Or frette sable, on a chief of the second three bezants.

In the pediment of the canopy is St. George on horse-

156 MILITARY COSTUME

back, spearing the dragon, his shield and the horse-trapper
bearing a cross/

The effigy at Wimbish is placed in a much-mutilated,
floriated cross, of which scarce more than the matrix
remains. Epaulieres appear, overlapping plates, here three
in number, protecting the shoulders. The feet are lost ;
but there are jambs over the mail chausses. There is no
shield.

The effigy of Sir John GifFard lacks the head. The
cuisseaux end in points below the genouillieres. The
straight edge of the jupon has an ornamented border.
There are no plate defences over the banded mail below
the knees, nor are there brassarts. The heater-shaped
shield borne over the left arm, with the guige passing
over the right shoulder, bears : — Sable, six fleurs de lis, 3,
2, and I or. The field is finely diapered. On the hands
are gauntlets with small plates of steel, protecting the
fingers, sewn on a leather foundation.

Hitherto we have dealt with styles of armour, each
represented by but two or three examples in brasses, but
we now come to a period, extending over the second half
of the fourteenth, and the first years of the fifteenth cen-
tury, during the reigns of Edward III., Richard II., and
Henry IV., in which the armour, much less variable in
style, is represented by a fine series of brasses. These,

^ Effigies on horseback in the pediments of their canopies may be seen
in Westminster Abbey on the tombs of Edmund Crouchback, Earl of
Lancaster, 1296, and Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, 1324.
Armour for horses is described as follows by Mr. R. C. Clephan in his
Defensive Armour, etc., p. 54 : "Bards comprised the chamfron or chanfrien
" for the face, worn sometimes with a crest ; picidre, breast ; flanchiere,
" flanks ; croupiere, hinder parts ; estivals, legs. The crinet, neck,
" appears first in England on the seal of Henry V. The horses were
" gaily caparisoned. The emblazoned housings were often made of
" costly material, such as satin embroidered with gold or silver." The
trapper of the horse corresponded to the surcoat of the knight, ^ee
" Horse Armour," by Viscount Dillon, P.S.A., Jrchceological Journal,
Vol. LIX., 1902, pp. 67-92.

VI.

VIII.

FROM THE HASTINGS BRASS,
Elsing, Norfolk.

MILITARY COSTUME 157

from one of the chief characteristics, are said to belong to
the Camail Period.'

Mail armour worn : —
Hawberk, sometimes called the habergeon^ shorter than
hitherto, with a straight-edged skirt, showing beneath
thtjupon ; the sleeves gradually disappeared, gussets
of mail at the arm-pits and inside the elbows taking
their place. The hauketon was still worn beneath the
hawberk, though it seldom appears ; but may be seen
at the wrists of Ralph de Knevynton, 1370, at
Aveley, Essex, and beneath the skirt of the hawberk
of Sir John de St. Quintin, 1397, Brandsburton,
Yorkshire.

Chausses, which gradually disappear, are worn by William
de Aldeburgh, c. 1360, at Aldborough, Yorkshire.
A gusset of mail protecting the instep is usually seen.
Another sometimes appears at the knee, e.g.^ Sir
Morys Russel, 1401, Dyrham, Gloucestershire.

Camail, already noticed, at first is seen passed under the
jupon, but is usually found overlapping it. It is
secured to the bascinet by a cord passing through
vervelles^ the earlier instances of which are carried up
on either side of the face and end in tassels ; but
later examples encircle the forehead, the cord running
in a groove for greater safety.

The mail is usually either banded or made of rings set
on their edges ; but that of William de Aldeburgh is of
the interlaced kind, which we find on some of the later
examples, e.g.^ the Knight at Laughton, Lines., c. 1400.

Of plate defences we find : —
Bascinet, which, but for the groove for the cord of the
camail, is usually plain, and is acutely pointed.

^ The bronze effigy of Edward the Black Prince (died 1376) in
Canterbury Cathedral shows this style of armour. It is interesting, also,
to note that a stone effigy of Henry IV. is to be seen on Battlefield
Church, Shrewsbury, built about 1408, wearing a jupon.

158 MILITARY COSTUME

Rerebraces and Vambraces, consisting of two plates en-
circling the arms ; roundels sometimes in front of the
shoulders to protect the arm-pits {yif de Vharnois or
defaut de la cuirasse).

Coutes at the elbows, with circular or heart-shaped hinges.

Epaulieres, of three or more overlapping plates on the
shoulders.

Cuisses on the thighs, in earlier examples often covered
with studded work' or pourpointerie.

Genouillieres, usually small and plain; but in some
early instances {e.g.. Sir John de Cobham, 1354, Sir
Thomas de Cobham, 1367, Cobham, Kent, and
Thomas Cheyne, Esq., 1368, Drayton Beauchamp,
Bucks) resembling pot-lids. In some cases plates
appear above and below the knees.

Jambs — as already described.

Pointed Sollerets, jointed, enclosing the feet {a la pou-
laine).

Rowell Spurs.

Gauntlets of leather or steel, on the fingers of which are
often found small knobs or spikes of steel called
gadlings. The wrist part frequently is jointed. Sir
John de St. Quintin, 1397, Brandsburton, Yorkshire,
wears a kind of steel over-cuff, richly engraved, a
form of the shell-backed gauntlet.

Over the body-armour is worn the Jupon, laced up at
the side, as seen on some sculptured effigies,^ tight-fitting,
and made of leather or of some stout material covered with

^ An example worn over mail chausses in relief on a marble tombstone
of the fourteenth century at the Certosa, Florence, is given in Ancient
Sepulchral Monuments, by Brindley and Weatherley, Plate 126. 1887.
The jupon of the knight has a dagged border in the shape of leaves.

2 As, for example, that of Sir John Leverick, Ash-next-Sandwich,
Kent, or a Knight, St. Peter's, Sandwich.

MILITARY COSTUME 159

silk or velvet, usually plain, but sometimes, as at Aid-
borough, c. 1360, and Southacre, 1384, etc., embroidered
with the arms of the wearer. The lower edge, beneath
which the skirt of the hawberk appears, is usually escal-
loped, or otherwise decorated. In some cases it is cut
into the form of leaves, as at Laughton, Lines., c. 1400,
or Blickling, Norfolk, Sir Nicholas Dagworth, 1401.
This form of ornamentation was called " dagging " {barbes
d'ecrevisses).

The Bawdric or knightly belt, worn horizontally on the
hips, over the jupon, is usually finely ornamented, and
probably was enriched with metal work. Sometimes
it takes the form of a buckled belt, the end falling
down in front, e.g.^ Sir John D'Argenteine, 1382,
Horseheath, Cambs. At others it is fastened by a
large clasp in front.

To the bawdric on the left side is attached the Sword,
which usually hangs straight at the side ; but in some
cases passes behind the left leg (i?.^., 1382, Sir Nicholas
Burnell, Acton Burnell, Salop). The scabbard is usually
plain except at the top. The hilt is often corded, and has
straight crossguard and round, octagonal, or pear-shaped
pommel.

The Basilard or Misericorde, a short dagger, not
always represented, hangs in its case on the right, attached
to the bawdric. It has no guard.

The Tilting Helm, surmounted by a crest, and with
lambrequins hanging behind, sometimes appears, used as a
pillow beneath the knight's head.

William de Aldeburgh, c. 1360, is the last instance on
a brass of a knight wearing a shield. The feet of the
knight usually rest upon a lion, but in some cases (e.g.^
Ralph de Knevynton, 1370, Aveley, Essex) on a dog.

It seems to have been the fashion to wear a beard and
moustache, but the former is hidden by the camail. It
appears, however, on the brass of Sir William Tendring,

i6o MILITARY COSTUME

1408, Stoke-by-Nayland, Suffolk, who I's shown bare-
headed.

It seems probable that in the latter part of this period
the hawberk gave place to hrmst and hack-plates and taces
(described below), and that a skirt of mail was fastened
either to the breast-plate or the lowermost tace. The
shape of the figure, over which the jupon fits tightly, is
an argument in favour of this view.

In some of the later examples the jupon has escalloped
or fringed arm-holes, the plate-armour has invecked edges,
and the camail and skirt of the hawberk show an orna-
mental fringe of mail, probably composed of brass rings.
In one or two instances {e.g.^ c. 1400, Robert Albyn,
Hemel Hempstead, Herts), as well as the horizontal
bawdric, a diagonal belt is worn supporting the sword, as
in the Complete Plate Period.

The following are some of the brasses of this period : —

1354. Sir John de Cobham, Cobham, Kent; studded
cuisses, no misericorde.
c. 1360. John PBodiham, Esq., Bodiam, Sussex; arms
on jupon.

c. 1360. William de Aldeburgh, Aldborough, near
Boroughbridge, Yorkshire ; on a small
bracket. The pourpoint appears between
the jupon and the hawberk ; cuisses covered
with pourpointerie. The misericorde appears
for the first time ; the jupon and semi-
cylindrical shield, worn on left arm, bear : —
(Az.) a fess per fess indented... and..., be-
tween three crosses botony (or), the dexter
cross charged with an annulet... for difference.
1 36 1. Sir Philip Peletoot, Watton, Herts; restored.

c. 1367. Sir John de Cobham (d. 1407), Cobham, Kent;

as founder holds church ; studded cuisses, no
misericorde.

1367. Sir Thomas de Cobham, Cobham, Kent.

MILITARY COSTUME i6i

1368. Thomas Cheyne, Esq., Drayton Beauchamp,
Bucks ^; shield-bearer to Edward III.

1370. Ralph de Knevynton, Aveley, Essex. Flemish.

Hawberk-skirt pointed ; both jupon and
cuisses are pourpointed. From the former
hang two chains to secure the sword and
misericorde,

1375. William Cheyne, Esq., Drayton Beauchamp,
Bucks ; studded cuisses, sollerets of fish-scale
pattern,^ no misericorde.

1382. Sir Nicholas Burnell, Acton Burnell, Salop.

The sword passes behind the left, the miseri-
corde to the front of the right leg.

1382. Sir lohn D'Argenteine, Horseheath, Cambs. ;
studded cuisses, no misericorde.

1384. Sir John Harsick (with lady), Southacre, Nor-
folk ; holds sword with left hand, and with
right hand clasps that of his lady. Arms on
jupon : — Or, a chief indented sable.

1388. Sir WilHam de Echingham, Etchingham, Sussex;

no misericorde.
1390- Sir Andrew Luttrell, Irnham, Lines.

1 39 1. Sir William de Kerdeston, Reepham, Norfolk

(lower part mutilated).

1392. Thomas, Lord Berkeley {d. 1417) with lady {d.

1392), Wotton-under-Edge, Gloucs. ; on

^ The jambs on this brass are noteworthy, consisting, apparently, of
narrow_ vertical bands, the alternate ones studded. It is difficult to
determine the materials of which these were composed. Haines (Intro-

"ofr^il^' "'^^^ • • • ^re either strips

^^ot steel, sewed on cloth, or some similar material, or perhaps are of
pourpoint fluted by strips of steel inlaid with the studs arranged in

f iX 0 form r""r''K ^K}""'' '"^^y Mi^- Stapleton

Ju^Za y, jambs and

studded cuisses and jupon. A vandyked fringe appears below Thomas
Cheyne s genouillieres, which probably is connected with the cuisTes
See also the effigy of Sir John Giffard mentioned above, p. 156.

J Similar sollerets appear on the mutilated brass of Sir Adam de
Clifton, 1367, at Methwold, Norfolk.

M

l62

MILITARY COSTUME

altar tomb. Over the camail a collar of
mermaids, a badge of this family.

1400. Sir John Mauleverere (with lady), Allerton

Mauleverer, Yorkshire. Early example of
a rectangular plate. The bascinet has a vizor
shaped like a bird's beak. The jupon bears : —
(Gu.) three levriers or greyhounds, courant in
pale (arg.), collared and belled (or). His feet
rest on a greyhound.
c. 1400. A Knight, Laugh ton, Lines. ; edges of plate
armour invecked ; the camail-cord surrounds
the forehead ; both diagonal and horizontal
belt.

1 40 1. Sir Nicholas Dagworth, Blickling, Norfolk;

head rests on tilting helm.

1406. Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick (with

countess), St. Mary's, Warwick; jupon bears
the Beauchamp arms, the charges finely
diapered. The staff-ragul6 appears on the rim
of the bascinet, on roundels at elbows, and on
sword-scabbard. The feet rest on a bear.

1407. Sir William Bagot (with lady), Baginton, War-

wickshire; jupon bears arms. Collar of SS.
c. 14 10. Sir Thomas Burton {d. 1382) (with lady). Little
Casterton, Rutland. Collar of SS.

A transitional period, overlapping the later instances
quoted, is found in the early part of the fifteenth century,
in which the mail defences gradually give way to plate
armour, but the camail is still retained, though sometimes
worn below a steel Gorget or Standard of plate. The
most noticeable change is the absence of the jupon, which
enables to appear

1. The Breastplate or Cuirass;

2. The skirt of Taces, overlapping plates, shaped to the

figure, varying in number, and fastened to the breast
and back plates, from which they extend to the

1

C.B.]

(I

ggiuwrttnirtawgcm^iiuai'giui] onrt comc'ttimiioiiM mn rap nort ^ '

SIR WILLIAM DE ECHINGHAM, 1388,
Etchingham, Sussex.

IP

MILITARY COSTUME 163

middle of the thighs.' To the lowermost tace a
fringe of mail is attached, taking the place of the
skirt of the hawberk, now probably abandoned.
When the jupon is retained, the lines of the taces
appear on it.

Examples : —

1 40 1. Sir Thomas de Braunstone, Wisbeach, Cambs. ;
- horizontal bawdric.

1403. Sir Reginald de Cobham, Lingfield, Surrey;

orle or wreath round the bascinet ; horizontal
bawdric ; head rests on tilting helm, feet on
dog.

c. 1405. Robert de Freville, Esq., Little Shelford, Cambs. ;
feet on greyhound ; horizontal bawdric.

1405. Thomas de Freville, Esq., Little Shelford,
Cambs. ; similar to the last.

1408. Thomas Seintlegier, Esq., Otterden, Kent (dis-
covered September 7th, 1894); horizontal
bawdric ; feet on greyhound.

1408. John Hauley, Esq. (with two wives), Dart-
mouth, Devon ; horizontal bawdric.

141 o. Sir John Wylcotes (with lady). Great Tew,
Oxon.^ ; wearing a livery collar } of SS.
c. 1 4 1 o. William Loveney, Esq., Wendens Ambo, Essex ;

diagonal sword-belt ; feet on lion.
^. 1410. A Knight (with lady) of D'Eresby family,
probably William, 4th Baron Willoughby
D'Eresby, Spilsby, Lines. ; orle round bas-
cinet, gorget over camail ; both diagonal and
horizontal belts.

' V^The manner of fastening the taces at the sides does not appear on
brasses, but may be observed on sculptured effigies, as, for instance, on
the alabaster effigy, c. 1450, at Christchurch, Hampshire, supposed to
represent Sir John Chidiock, whose taces are hinged on the left and
buckled on the right side.

2 An account of this family may be found in the Berks Bucks and Oxon
Archaological Journal, Vol. III., No. 4, January, i8g8, p. 07, "The
W.lcotes Family," by F. N. Macnamarl ^' ^ ' F V/' ^ e

164

MILITARY COSTUME

141 2. Sir Thomas Swynborne,' Little Horkesley,
Essex; wearing gorget, under which the
camail or a fringe of mail attached to the
gorget appears; collar of SS. ; roundels at
shoulders ; diagonal sword-belt.

The Complete Plate period, beginning under Henry
IV., lasted during the reign of Henry V. and the first
part of that of Henry VI., or in other words, during the
ascendancy of the Lancastrians. The characteristic of this
period, as its name denotes, is the absence of mail defences,
except for a short fringe attached to the lowermost tace in
some of the earlier examples.^

The plate armour worn consisted of the following
pieces : —

Bascinet more rounded in shape than formerly ; usually
resting on the tilting helm.

Gorget or Standard of plate, superseding the camail.

Breastplate (with corresponding back-plate) as in the
transitional period.

Skirt of Taces, varying in the number, which increases.
To the centre of the lowermost tace is sometimes
attached a baguette^ consisting of one or more small
plates.

Epaulieres, more of which appear than formerly, owing
to the different shape of the gorget from that of the
camail.

Brassarts (rerebraces and vambraces).

CouTES, either with roundels {e.g.^ Sir John Lowe, 1426,

^ Represented with his father, Sir Robert Swynborne, 1391, beneath a
double canopy. Sir Robert wears the armour of the camail period. The
initials R.S. occur on his horizontal bawdric.

2 Exceptions to this rule may be cited, in the brass of Robert Hayton,
Esq., 1424, Theddlethorp, Lines., who wears the camail instead of a
gorget, and In the rare appearance of a fringe of mail below the gorget
{e.g., Thomas Walysch, Esq., c. 1420, Whitchurch, Oxon.),

SIR THOMAS CHEDDAR, 14+2-3,
Cheddar, Somerset.

MILITARY COSTUME 165

Battle, Sussex) ; fan-shaped {e.g.^ Sir Arnald Savage,
1420, Bobbing, Kent) ; or buckle-shaped (^.^.,
Thomas Chaucer, Esq., 1434, Ewelme, Oxon.).

Roundels in front of the arm-pits, instead of which, in
later examples, we find

Palettes, oblong plates, sometimes charged with a cross
(e.g., Sir Simon Felbrigge, 141 6, Felbrigg, Norfolk).
In a few cases these palettes appear to have the upper
and lower edges curved outwards {e.g., Thomas Salle,
Esq., 1422, Stevington, Beds; Nicholas Manston,
Esq., 1444, St. Laurence, Thanet) ; and in some a
palette of this kind is worn on the left side, and a
roundel on the right {e.g.., Sir Thomas de St. Quintin,
141 8, Harpham, Yorkshire).

Gauntlets, sometimes not divided into fingers, but jointed
(^.^., John Launceleyn, Esq., 1435, Cople, Beds). In
later examples the cuffs are often pointed {e.g., Sir
Thomas Cheddar, 1442, Cheddar, Somerset).

CuissEs and Jambs, plain.

Genouillieres, often with plates above and below, some-
times pointed, for additional protection.
Sollerets, as before.

Rowell Spurs, either open {e.g., Valentyne Baret, Esq.,
1440, Preston near Faversham, Kent), or guarded
{e.g.. Sir Thomas Brounflet, 1430, Wymington,
Beds.).

The Sword hangs on the left side by a belt crossing the
taces diagonally, and often ornamented with quatre-
fojls, etc. On the brass of Sir John Phelip, 1415,
Kidderminster, the belt has a fringe and bears the
initials LP.

The MisERicoRDE is attached to the taces on the right
side. The strap fastening it may be seen at Routh,
E. Yorks. (Sir John Routh, c. 1410) and Brabourne,
Kent (William Scot, Esq., 1433).

1 66 MILITARY COSTUME

TuiLLEs, two tile-like plates fastened to the lowermost
tace, and hanging over the thighs, begin to appear.
Some instances are cited below.

Heraldic Tabards occur in one or two instances, though
it is long before they become general on brasses.
An early form may be that on the brass of John
Wantele, 1424, Amberley, Sussex, which shows a
kind of loose vest embroidered with the wearer's
arms,^ and with tight, short sleeves. But on the
brass of William Fynderne, Esq., 1444/ Childrey,
Berks., the tabard is of the form found later, and
familiar as that worn by Heralds.^ On the two

^ Vert three lions' faces argent langued gules. An effigy with similarly-
shaped tabard charged with three crescents is engraved in Millin de
Grandmaison's Jntiquites Rationales, Vol. III., 1791, No. 32, Plate 3,
p. 19 (Pierre Des Essarts, 141 3, Eglise des Mathurins, Paris).

2 The style of this effigy accords more with that of the succeeding
period. It is not improbable that it was engraved some twenty years
later, on the death of the wife.

3 No brasses of Heralds survive. A rubbing is in existence of the
brass of Thomas Benolte, or Benold, Clarencieux King of Arms (to whom
the earliest known commission for a Visitation was given in 1528-9),
with his two wives, 1534, lost from St. Helen's, Bishopsgate, London,
showing him in his tabard. In The History and Survey of London, etc.,
by William Maitland, Vol. II., 1756, p. 1158, occurs the following
(cited by Haines, p. cxxviii.) : " In the middle Isle of^ St. Olave's, Hart-
" street, upon a flat Stone, inlaid with Brass, the Figure of a King of
"Arms in his Coat and Crown, and underneath was formerly this
« Inscription, of which the Date of the Year was lately remaining in the
"old black Letter: Orate pro anima Johannis Clarenseux Regis Armorim,
" qui obiit vi.to die Mensis Februarii An. Dom. MCCCCXXFII. It is not
"mentioned by Stow what was the Sirname of this Clarenceux ; but it
" is supposed to have been Arundell ; for there is this Entry in the
"Office of the Chamberlain of London, 16 Henry VI. viz. Rlchardus
" Arundell, filius Johannis Clarenseux Regis Armorum, venit hie coram
" Camerario, et cognovit se esse Apprenticium Robert Asheley, Civis &
" Aurifabri, &c." At Broughton Gifford, Wilts, is a brass to Robert,
second son of Henry Longe, Esq., 1620, showing an altar tomb with
a Herald in tabard, and Death standing behind it. At Middle Claydon,
Bucks, the inscription of Roger Gyflard, Esq., 1542, and wife, when
reversed revealed an inscription for Walter Belhngham, "Alias dicti
Walteri Irelonde Regis Armor' in Hybernia," and wife Elizabeth, 1487.

I

SIR WILLIAM MOLYNS AND WIDOW MARGERY, 1425,
Stoke Poges, Bucks.

C.B.]

MILITARY COSTUME 167

short sleeves and on the breast the arms are seen, in
this case : — Argent a chevron between three crosses
patte fitche sable, an annulet for difference. The
effigy of Sir Ralph Shelton, 1424, Great Snoring,
Norfolk, is cited by Haines, as wearing a tabard {^See
Cotman, Vol. I., PL xix., ed. 1839), but only the head
has survived.

In a few cases the head is bare (e.g.^ 1424, John Wantele,
Amberley, Sussex; 1441, Sir Hugh Halsham, West
Grinstead, Sussex; 1444, William Fynderne, Esq.,
Childrey, Berks.). The fashion seems to have been for
the face to be cleanshaven.^ The feet usually rest on a
lion, but sometimes on a dog {e.g.., Peter Halle, Esq.,
c. 1420, Herne, Kent), and in one or two instances on a
representation of the ground sown with flowers (e.g.^
John Peryent, Esq., junior, 1442, Digswell, Herts).

Examples : —

141 1. Thomas de Cruwe, Esq., Wixford, Warwick-

shire ; oval palettes charged with cross ; no
swordbelt.

141 2. Robert, Lord Ferrers, Merevale, Warwickshire ;

mail fringe below taces.

1 4 14. Geoffrey Fransham, Esq., Great Fransham,

Norfolk.

141 5. John Peryent, Esq., Digswell, Herts.; feet on

leopard.

c. 1415. Walter Rolond, Esq., Cople, Beds.; no animal
beneath feet.

c. 141 5. Sir Robert Suckling, Barsham, Suffolk ; Collar of
SS. ; initials R. S. on scabbard.

c. 141 5, eng. Sir John de Erpingham, Erpingham, Nor-
folk; d. 1370, mail fringe, feet on lion.

141 6. Sir Simon Felbrigge, K.G., Felbrigg, Norfolk;

mail fringe below taces, palettes charged with

|John(?) Knyvet, Esq., U^iy, Mendlesham, Suffolk, wears a large
forked beard hanging over the gorget (illustrated in the Rev. Edmund
Farrer s Ltst of Su folk Brasses, 1903, p. 43).

i68

MILITARY COSTUME

a cross. On left arm rests a staff to which a
banner is attached, bearing the arms of
Richard II., to whom he was standard-bearer.'
141 8. Sir Thomas de St. Quintin, Harpham, Yorks. ;

orle round bascinet ; waved edge to mail-skirt
below taces ; horizontal bawdric.^
1420. Sir William Calthorpe, Burnham Thorpe, Nor-
folk ; feet on two dogs ; collar of SS.

c. 1420. Sir John Lysle, Thruxton, Hants {d. 1407).

c. 1420. Peter Halle, Esq., Heme, Kent; feet on dog;

no misericorde nor gauntlets ; left hand on
breast, right holding his wife's right hand.

c. 1420. Thomas Walysch, Esq., Whitchurch, Oxon. ;
fringe of mail below gorget.
1422. Thomas Salle, Esq., Stevington, Beds.; the
tilting helm surmounted by a panache of nine
feathers.

1422. Thomas de Coggeshall, Esq., Springfield, Essex ;

feet on ground.
1424. Thomas, Lord Camoys, K.G., Trotton, Sussex

{d. 1419).

1424. John Poyle, Esq., Hampton Poyle, Oxon.;

tuilles.

1425. Sir William Molyns, Stoke Poges, Bucks.

1426. Sir John de Brewys, Wiston, Sussex ; no miseri-

corde ; slab powdered with scrolls.
1426. John Cosyngton, Esq., Aylesford, Kent; skirt
of nine taces.

1430. Sir Thomas Brounflet, Wymington, Beds. ; no
misericorde ; palettes.

1 The arms attributed to Edward the Confessor (Azure a cross flory
within an orle of martlets or) impaling France and England, quarterly.

2 Sir Thomas' gorget runs up into a peak or ridge on either side of the
face. A similar peculiarity is seen on the brass of a knight (? of Hansard
family), c. 141 o, at South Kelsey, Lines. Compare also the stone effigy
of Michael de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, 141 5, at Wingfield, Suffolk, who
wears a jupon. See " Some Peculiarities and Omissions in Brasses," by
Viscount Dillon, in No. I of the J ouiiial of the Oxford University Brass-
Rubbing Society, February, 1897.

I

I

I

[C.B.

1

J

SIR JOHN HARPEDON, 1457,
Westminster Abbey.

C.B.]

MILITARY COSTUME 169

1433. Sir John Leventhorpe, Sawbridgeworth, Herts. ;

tuilles ; feet rest on dog ; round the neck a
livery collar.

1434. Thomas Chaucer, Esq., Ewelme, Oxon.; palettes ;

skirt of ten taces ; feet on unicorn.

1435. John Launceleyn, Esq., Cople, Beds.; tuilles;

no misericorde.
1437. Thomas Brokill, Esq., Saltwood, Kent.
1437. Roger Elmebrygge, Esq., Beddington, Surrey;

tuilles ; feet on dog.
1440. Richard Malmaines, Esq., Pluckley, Kent.
1442. Sir Thomas Cheddar, Cheddar, Somerset;

palettes.

1444. Sir William Echyngham, Etchingham, Sussex.

1445. Sir Giles Daubeney, South Petherton, Somerset ;

palettes ; feet on dog.^
1457. Sir John Harpedon, Westminster Abbey.

A good example of the Complete Plate Period was the
brass of Sir Brian de Stapilton, 1438, formerly at Ingham,
Norfolk. Under his right foot was a lion, beneath his
left a dog with label " Jakke."

The Yorkist Period of armour covers the latter part
of the reign of Henry VI., and the reigns of Edward IV.
and Richard III. It is distinguished from the previous
period, which, of course, it overlaps, by various additional
plate defences, made necessary or fashionable by the
Wars of the Roses. But, however splendid or useful
these pieces of plate may have been, the general effect
of the armed knight is less pleasing than in the Lan-
castrian period, when the armour, simple and dignified,
adhered more closely to the lines of the figure. This
unwieldly appearance increases as the years advance;

I The diagonal swordbelt is ornamented with small cinquefoils

possibly in allusion to his arms: Azure three cinquefoils between six
crosses crosslet argent.— Illustrated in Somerset and Dorset Notes and Queries
Vol. I., 1890, p. 241. » >

T

lyo MILITARY COSTUME

there is less uniformity than we have hitherto encountered,
and the armour is often worked into ribs and curves,
much elaborating the design.

The armour for the breast is formed of two or more
pieces, overlapping for flexibility's sake, and known as
placcates or placcards, or demi-placcates or demi-placcards.
Various re-inforcing plates were added for tournaments,
which do not occur on brasses. The place of the roundels
or pallets of a former date is either supplied by the
pauldrons^ or by separate plates, fastened witih spring-pins
fitting into staples {e.g. 1445, Sir John Throckmorton,
Fladbury, Worcs.). These plates were of different shape,
that over the left or bridle arm being larger than that
over the sword arm, which was called a moton, and was
curved so as not to incommode the wearer when using a
lance {e.g.^ 1440, a Knight, Addington, Kent). The
principal additional defences, therefore, were : —

D emi-Placcates or Demi-Placcards, curved plates, some-
times of two or more pieces, covering the lower part
of the breast and backplates proper and narrowing
as they near the gorget. Fastened to the cuirass by
a buckle and strap, hidden, owing to the attitude of
the hands clasped in prayer.^

Pauldrons, shoulder-plates with ridges, worn over or in
lieu of the epaulieres^ and serving a similar purpose.
Frequently that worn on the left arm is further pro-
tected by a larger ridge than that on the right. In
some cases a pauldron is seen only on the left arm
(e.g.^ 1470, Robert Watton, Esq., Addington, Kent).

Gardes de Bras, additional plates attached to the coutes,
varying in shape in accordance with their position on
the right or left arm.^ The coutes or coudieres them-
selves become much larger.

^ An instance, showing the buckle, is to be found, a few years beyond
the period, at West Harling, Norfollc (William Berdewell, Esq., f. 1490).

^ Possibly the up-turned edge of the vambrace may sometimes be mis-
taken for a garde de bras. See Blanche's comment on Fairholt, sub mm.

MILITARY COSTUME 171

Instead of a gorget, a hausse-col, standard^ or collar of
mail, sometimes vaiidyked {e.g.^ I454» William
Ludsthorp, Esq., Warkworth, Northants; 1478,
Richard Quartremayns, Esq., Thame, Oxon.) is
found in many cases.
The tuilles have their lower ends pointed as a rule, and
as they increase in size the taces decrease in number.
The latter are frequently curved or escalloped, and some-
times, as at Isleworth, Middlesex, c. 1450, are composed
of many small plates. In some of the later examples
smaller tuilles (or tuillettes) are seen at the sides, and a
small skirt of mail appears between them, to develop
under Henry VII. into the conspicuous mail skirt. A
baguette^ or brayette (cod-piece), consisting of a lappet of
mail, supersedes that composed of steel plates.

The epaulieres often take a splint-XxVo. form, as worn by
the Knight, c. 1450, Isleworth, Middlesex. The cuirass in
some late examples has a perpendicular ridge down the
centre, called a tapul {e.g.^ I479j Thomas Playters, Esq.,
Sotterley, Suffolk).

In a few brasses the lance-rest appears screwed into the
cuirass on the right side, e.g.^

1462. Sir Thomas Grene, Green's Norton, Northants. ;
feet on dog.

1466 Henry Parice, Esq., Hildersham, Cambs. ; feet on
lion ; no gauntlets nor misericorde ; wears
what is probably the hauketon ; tuilles have
but one buckle each, attaching them to the
third tace.

1467. John Bovile, Esq., Stokerston, Leicestershire.

The genouillieres become larger, and have plates behind
them protecting the back of the knees {e.g.^ 14-^1, Sir
William Vernon, Tong, Salop). One or more plates,
those below pointed, occur above and below them.

Gussets of mail sometimes appear protecting the right
armpit, where a moton is not worn, and more rarely at the
knees {e.g., 1483, Henry Bourchier, Earl of Essex, Little.

172 MILITARY COSTUME

Easton, Essex), and at the insteps (e.g., 1458, Thomas
bhernborne, Esq., Shernbourne, Norfolk).

The gauntlets often have a plate, of the shape of a
tortoise-shell, on the back of the hands, hence called
shell-backed., and the fingers protected by little over-
lapping plates [e.g., 1467, Sir William Vernon, Tong,
Salop).

The globular bascinet seen in early examples gradually
goes out of use, many effigies having bare heads resting
on tilting-helms, with elaborate crests and lambrequins,
and showing the buckle which fastened down the rim in
front, when worn. The hair is represented as cut short, in
a roll-like conventional manner ; later it becomes long and
flowing. When head-pieces are worn they are of the
form known as the Salade, with a piece protecting the
back of the neck, and with vizors which, when lowered,
met a plate covering the chin {mentoniere). Three brasses
of the Yorkshire School well illustrate this, viz. : —

1459. Sir John Langton, St. Peter, Leeds; feet on
ground.

1466. Richard Ask, Esq., Aughton, East Yorks. ; feet
on dog.

1474. William Fitzwilliam, Esq., Sprotborough, Yorks. ;
feet on lion.

Heraldic tabards are rarely found, and appear closer-
fitting than later, e.g. —

1458. William Stapleton, Esq., Edenhall, Cumberland ;

wearing salade ; arms on tabard : — Argent three
swords conjoined at the pommel gules Staple-
ton impaling Or six annulets 3, 2, i, gules
for Veteripont or Vipont.

1473. Sir John Say, Broxbourne, Herts.; bearing: —
Party per pale azure and gules, three chev-
ronels or, each charged with another humett^,
counterchanged of the field.

1477. John Feld, Esq., Standon, Herts. ; Gules a fess or

MILITARY COSTUME 173

between three eagles displayed argent gutt6
de sang.

The Yorkist Collar of Suns and Roses is sometimes
found, see p. 191.

The lion under the feet gradually becomes less common,
the dog being more frequent than hitherto ; but a repre-
sentation of the ground, heraldically termed a mounts is
more usual. The sword, which is large, often with
fretted handle, the quillons usually curving towards the
blade, at first hangs as before, but later it is suspended by
a belt diagonally in front of the body. The misericorde
hangs on the right side. Sir Thomas Grene, 1462,
Green's Norton, Northants, has a large anelace hanging in
front perpendicularly, the sword being at the left side.

Examples : —

1435. Richard Delamere, Esq., Hereford Cathedral.
1438. Richard Dixton, Esq., Cirencester, Gloucs. ; feet
on dog.^

c. 1440. Sir William Wadham, Ilminster, Somerset; feet
on lion.

c. 1440. Thomas de Mohun, Esq., Lanteglos-juxta-
Fowey, Cornwall ; feet on lion ; no miseri-
corde.

1 44 1. Reginald Barantyn, Esq., Chalgrove, Oxon. ;

feet on greyhound.
1445- John Throckmorton, Esq., Fladbury, Worcs. ;

feet on lion.

1 445- John Daundelyon, " Gentilman," MargateyKent ;

feet on mount.
1 445- Thomas de St. Quintin, Esq., Harpham, Yorks. ;

feet on mount ; livery collar.

The above, except for the additional defences, much
resemble in style the brasses of the Lancastrian period.

' The pommel of the sword has a shield bearing :— Or, a pile azure, over
all a chevron gules.

174 MILITARY COSTUME

The sword hangs straight on the left side. Gorget and
bascinet are retained.

The London school of engravers furnishes some ex-
amples that are peculiar, the taces being composed of
several small pieces. No tuilles ; the head bare ; e.g.^

c. 1442. Thomas Torrell, Esq., Willingale Doe, Essex;
feet on dog.

1447. John Maltoun, Esq., Little Waltham, Essex.
c. 1450. A Knight, Isleworth, Middlesex ; feet on dog.
145 1. Thomas Reynes, Esq., Marston Morteyne,

Beds. ; feet on collared greyhound.
1454. Thomas Stathum, Esq., Morley, Derbyshire;
kneeling on helm.
c. 1456. Walter Grene, Esq., Hayes, Middlesex ; feet on
griffin.

Examples showing more marked characteristics of the
period, such as the sword in front, the head bare, with
the hair cut close, are as follows : —

1455/6. Ralph, Lord Cromwell, K.G., Tattershall,
Lines, (head and left shoulder gone) ; mantle ;
feet on two wodehouses.

1458. Thomas Shernborne, Esq., Shernbourne, Nor-
folk ; head on helm ; feet on lion ; one buckle
each for the tuilles.

1458. Sir Robert Staunton, Castle Donnington, Leics. ;

salade ; sword hanging straight on left side ;
feet on collared greyhound.

1459. William Mareys, Esq., Preston, near Faver-

sham, Kent. (The ground beneath the feet

curiously worked.)
c. 1460. Sir Robert del Bothe, Wilmslow, Cheshire ; feet

on dog ; gussets at right armpit and insteps ;

neither misericorde nor gauntlets. Lady on

dexter side ; her right hand held in his, his

left hand on his breast.
c. 1460. A Knight, Adderbury, Oxon. ; head on helm ;

feet on dog ; collar of — (J).

THOMAS PEYTON, ESQ., AND WIVES
MARGARET AND MARGARET, 1484,

ISLEHAM, CaMBS.

MILITARY COSTUME 175

1 46 1. William Brome, Esq., Holton, Oxon. ; (now

mural) ; salade ; feet on mount.

1462. William Prelatte, Esq., Cirencester, Gloucs. ;

salade ; feet on mount.
c. 1465. John Anstey, Esq., Quy, Cambs. ; feet on
mount ; sons kneeling in heraldic tabards.
1470. Henry Unton, Esq., Sculthorpe, Norfolk;

kneeling ; no gauntlets ; skirt of hauketon(.?)
appearing.

c. 1475. ^ Knight (of the Lacon family.?), Harley,
Shropshire ; head on helm turned with vizor
outwards, and showing both buckles which
fastened it when worn ; sword hangs straight
on left side ; feet on greyhound.

1478. Richard Quartremayns. Esq., and .f" Richard

Fowler, Esq., Thame, Oxon. ; feet on mount.
1484. Thomas Peyton, Esq., Isleham, Cambs.; feet
on mount.

The following show some signs of transition to the
next period. Where not stated, the hair is long, the feet
rest on the ground, and a very short skirt of mail is seen.

1467. Sir William Vernon,"^ Tong, Shropshire; head

on helm ; hair short.
c, 1470. — Aubrey, Esq., Clehongre, Herefordshire ;

head on helm ; feet on lion.
1472. Robert Ingylton, Esq., Thornton, Bucks. ; hair

short.

1479. Thomas Playters, Esq., Sotterley, Suffolk.

1480. Sir Anthony Grey, St. Alban's Abbey, Herts. ;

Collar of suns and roses ; head on helm.
c. 1480. A Knight, Howden, Yorkshire ; hair short.
c. 1480. A Knight of the Northwode family, Milton-next-

Sittingbourne, Kent ; feet on greyhound.

^In Millin de Grandmaison's Antiquites Nationales, Vol. III., 1791
(No. 26, PI. 4, p. 18) IS an engraving of a similar brass commemorating
this knight and his lady, formerly at Vernon, in Normandy.

176

MILITARY COSTUME

1482. Thomas Wayte, Esq., Stoke Charity, Hants.;

the sollerets in this and the next instance
have a curiously transitional appearance.

1483. Thomas Hampton, Esq., Stoke Charity, Hants. ;

feet on collared greyhound.

1483. Henry Bourchier, Earl of Essex, K.G., Little

Easton, Essex ; Collar of suns and roses ;
mantle of Garter, feet on eagle.
1485. John Seyntmaur, Esq., Beckington, Somerset ;
feet on greyhound.

Some military brasses existing in Norfolk and Suffolk
belong in date to this and the succeeding period, but show
the peculiarities of treatment of a local school of engravers,
which, in all probability, had its headquarters in Norwich.
With divergence in detail, much similarity of style is to
be observed in the following examples ; among the more
striking characteristics being the chevron-like lines or
ridges engraved on the jambs, etc., the peculiar treatment
of pauldrons, coutes and tuilles, and the position of the
sword, hanging perpendicularly in front of the body.

c. 1470. Peter Rede, Esq., St. Peter Mancroft, Norwich ;

died 1568 ; wears salade ; the pointed sollerets
are long and narrow.
147 1. Sir John Cursun, Belaugh, Norfolk; feet on
lion.

1475. Ralph Blen'haysett, Esq., Frenze, Norfolk.
c. 1480. Christopher Playters, Esq., Sotterley, Suffolk;
feet on dog ; sword hangs on left side.

1484. Thomas Gybon, Gent., Whissonsett, Norfolk;

mentoniere.

1488. Edmund Clere, Esq., Stokesby, Norfolk ; feet
on dog ; large salade ; the plates on the feet
show mail beneath. He wears a kind of collar
of roses.

c. 1 500. A Knight, Assington, Suffolk ; wears sabbatons.
1 5 10. John Blen'hayset, Esq., Frenze, Norfolk.

ftir {m iiilj Uinir lip to otms'amaBliitis Oat 'Mws amlinis bmUt
nnteliDuamlnlmimBOlmrjis lujnjugliamniiis amiPaasjiBBf (t'jmi

MATRIX OF SHROUD EFFIGY OF ALIANORE MULLENS,

c. 1476,

Stoke Poges, Bucks. With Tilting Shields.

C.B.]

MILITARY COSTUME 177

The Early Tudor Period of armour, sometimes
called from its chief characteristic the Mail Skirt
Period, may be said to have lasted from the accession of
Henry VII., in 1485, to that of Elizabeth in 1558. Of
this style many examples remain ; but unfortunately the
quality of the engraving shows a rapid deterioration. The
armour differs from that lately described in the following
particulars.

There is not the exaggerated appearance of the Yorkist
period. The coutes are of moderate size, and are not
encumbered by gardes de bras. The demi-placcates, where
found, are simple in form. The pauldrons have the per-
pendicularly-projecting plates, pike-guards J usually called
pass-guards^^ attached to them to ward off blows ; that on
the left shoulder being, as a rule, larger than that on the
sword arm. The cuirass, to which a lance-rest^ is some-
times attached on the right side (e.g., I500j John Tame,
Esq., Fairford, Gloucs.), usually has the tapul or ridge
dowii the centre, and becomes more globular in shape.
The neck is protected either by a steel gorget, or more
frequently by the standard of mail. The skirt of taces
varies much in shape and composition. In a few cases it
is made of many small plates, possibly intended for the
skirt of lamboys, or bases, consisting of laminated hoops,
fastened together by " almayne," or sliding rivets, as worn
in the sixteenth century {e.g.^ James Peckham, Esq.,
c. 1530, Wrotham, Kent, and Sir William Scot, 1527,
Brabourne, Kent, the latter having curious defences at the
elbows, resembling roundels). In some late examples
{^•S-> i559j John Dauntesay, Esq., West Lavington,
Wilts.) the taces have an arched opening in the centre, a

^ The term passguard is probably misapplied to the upright shoulder
pieces. See Lord Dillon's paper, "The Passguard, Garde de Cou,
Brech-Rand, Stoss-Kragen or Randt, and the Volant Piece," pp. 129 and
433, Archceological Journal, Vol. XLVI., 1889.

2 The tilting-shield, rare on brasses, had a cavity, {a bouche) cut in the
dexter chief corner, acting as a lance-rest. Two shields of this shape
may be seen at Rainham, Essex, c. 1475.

N

1 78 MILITARY COSTUME

mark of transition to the Tasset period. The tuilles vary
much in number, size, and shape. Two large ones are
worn by Sir Humphrey Stanley, 1505, Westminster
Abbey. Three (one in the centre) are seen at Nether
Heyford, Northants. (Sir Walter Mauntell, 1487), and in
the British Museum (" A man in armour," c. 1 5 10). Four
appear on some examples, two being worn at the sides
{e.g., 1488, Henry Covert, Esq., North Mimms., Herts.).
Those worn at the back, called culettes, do not often
appear {e.g., 1505, Morys Denys, Esq., Olveston, Gloucs.,
in tabard, kneeling).

The Skirt or Petticoat of Mail is worn beneath the
tuilles,' and usually exceeds them in length, though some-
times the reverse is the case {e.g., 1529, Sir Robert Clere,
Great Ormesby, Norfolk). Its lower edge is found
straight {e.g., 15 10, John Leenthorp, Esq., Great St.
Helen's, Bishopsgate, London), or vandyked {e.g., 1559,
John Dauntesay, Esq., West Lavington, Wilts.), and it
is often slit up the centre {e.g., 15 13, John Toke, Esq.,
Great Chart, Kent). The armour for the legs (cuisses,
genouillieres (sometimes ornamented with rosettes) and
jambs) presents but little change. Gussets of mail appear
at the right armpit and at the insteps Pointed sollerets
are replaced by broad-toed Sabbatons of inelegant shape,^
and frequently of clumsy proportions, to which the spurs
were often screwed {e.g., 1500, John Tame, Esq., Fairford,
Gloucs,). The sword and misericorde, each usually of
large size, hang straight at the sides, or pass diagonally
behind the body. The belt for the former is often
omitted {e.g.^ 152.8, Henry Stanley, Esq., Hillingdon,
Middlesex). The scabbard, worn in front, by Sir William

^ The representation of the tuilles worn beneath the mailskirt, as,
c. 1500, a Knight, Chedzoy, Somerset; c. 1500, a Knight of the
Compton(?) family, kneeling, in the possession of the Surrey Archaeo-
logical Society ; or, 1 5 1 7, Anthony Hansart, Esq., March, Cambs.,
kneeling, may be due to the engraver's error.

- Called " bear-paw," or " cow-mouth," " bee de cane."

THOMAS GOLDE, Esq., 1525,
Crewkerne, Somerset.

C.B.]

MILITARY COSTUME

179

Peeche, 1487, Lullingstone, Kent, is handsomely decorated.
The hair is worn long, and the face is clean-shaven, except
in a few cases, where beard and moustache are worn {e.g.,
1545, Sir Robert Demoke, Scrivelsby, Lines.). The
head and hands are usually bare; but a small helmet
appears, worn at Swallowfield, Berks., 1554, Christopher
Lyttcot, Esq., and at Broxbourne, Herts., 1531, John
Borrell (Sergeant-at-Arms, with mace). This helmet was
sometimes provided with flaps to defend the ears, called
oreillettes. An example occurs on the brass of Philip
Mede, Esq., c. 1475, St. Mary RedclifF, Bristol.
Gauntlets are well shown at Hunstanton, Norfolk, 1506,
(Sir Roger I'Estrange), whose hands are uplifted so as to
show the palms. The head rests in many cases on the
tilting helm, surmounted by crest and mantling. On two
Bedfordshire brasses (1527, William Cokyn, Esq.,
Hatley Cockayne, and 1528, John Fysher, Esq., Clifton)
the helm bears a triple plume. The feet, as a rule, rest
on a mount, but lions and dogs are also found. Many
effigies, especially those in tabards, are represented kneel-
ing on cushions at prayer desks. Chains, usually sup-
porting a Tau cross, are worn by some figures round the
neck (^.^., 1508, John Mohun, Esq., Lanteglos-j uxta-
Fowey, Cornwall ; 1528, Henry Stanley, Esq., Hillingdon,
Middlesex). Ruff's and frills appear in some late examples
at the neck and wrists {e.g.^ i559j Sir Edward Greville,
Weston-upon-Avon, Gloucs., in tabard). The space
between the legs of the effigy is often not cut away {e.g.^
1500, Richard Conquest, Esq., Houghton Conquest,
Beds.), A large proportion of the knights and esquires
represented during this period held office in the Royal
Household. Examples : —

1485. Thomas Halle, Esq., Thannington, Kent; feet
on dog.

1496. John Hampden, Esq., Great Hampden, Bucks.
1496. John Payn, Esq., Hutton, Somerset; feet on
dog.

i8o

MILITARY COSTUME

1497. John Trenowyth, Esq., St. Michael Penkivel,

Cornwall ; feet on greyhound ; head on helm.
c. 1500. Sir Hugh Johnys, Swansea, Glamorganshire.
1503. Robert Borrow, Esq., Stanford Rivers, Essex.
1 507 . William, Vi&count Beaumont, Wivenhoe, Essex ;

head on helm ; feet on elephant.
1509. John le Strange, Lord Strange of Knokyn,

d. 1477, Hillingdon, Middlesex.
151 1, Richard Gyll, Esq., Shottesbrooke, Berks.
1 52 1. Richard, Lord Grey de Wilton, Eton College

Chapel, Bucks. ; Page of Honour to Henry

VIII.

1523. Thomas Boynton, Esq., Roxby Chapel, York-
shire.

1527. Sir Peter Legh, Winwick, Lanes.; wearing

chasuble over his armour.^
1529. Sir Thomas Brooke, Cobham, Kent; cross

hanging by chain round neck.
c. 1530. Henry Bures, Esq., Acton, Suffolk; head on

helm ; wearing gauntlets, and tuilles (two in

number) at the sides of the thighs.
1 53 1. John Horsey, Esq., Yetminster, Dorset ; cuirass

decorated with scroll work.
1538. Sir Thomas Bullen, K.G., Earl of Wiltshire,

Hever, Kent ; head on helm ; feet on

gryphon.

1546. William Thinne, Esq., All Hallows' Barking,
London ; Master of the Household to Henry
VIII., editor of Chaucer in 1532.

155 1. Peter Coryton, Esq., St. MelHon, Cornwall;
head on helm.

1553. Nicholas Saunder, Esq., Charlwood, Surrey;
kneeling.

' At Merton, Norfolk, there is a shield with inscription to Thomas de
Grey, Esq., 1556, and his wife, Elizabeth, died c. 15 14, daughter of Sir
Richard Fitzlewes, " who, after her decease made himself preast, and
so lyved xli yeres."

SIR THOMAS BROOKE, LORD COBHAM, AND
WIFE DOROTHY, 1529,
CoBHAM, Kent.

C.R.]

MILITARY COSTUME i8i

1553. Sir John Hampden, Great Hampden, Bucks.;

ruff; chain round neck.
1558. Thomas Harlaky nden, Esq. , Woodchurch, Kent ;

kneeling. o i • 1

1567. (eng. c. 1520) John White, Esq., Southwick,

Hants.

1577. Hugh Starky, Esq., Over, Cheshire; head on
helm ; in armour of this period.

The Tabard of Arms frequently occurs in the first half
of the sixteenth century. When represented on the same
monument as her husband, the wife usually wears an
heraldic mantle. Examples : —
1485. Piers Gerard, Esq., Winwick, Lanes.; feet on
lion. The mail-skirt and tuilles are hidden.
1499. Thomas Heveningham, Esq., Ketteringham,
Norfolk; kneeling; coloured.
c. 1500. A Knight of the Scarisbrick family, Ormskirk,
Lanes. ; head on cushion ; feet on lion ; chains
round the neck. The tabard shows the taces
at the side.

1501. Robert Baynard, Esq., Lacock, Wilts.

1506. Sir Roger le Strange, Hunstanton, Norfolk;

head on cushion, above which is a helm with
huge mantling ; the coutes and genouillieres
have curious knobs ; the hands are upheld,
showing the inner side of the gauntlets ; the
whole rests on a low bracket enclosed within
a fine triple canopy, the side shafts of which
contain eight ancestors in tabards.

1 51 6. Thomas Knyghtley, Esq,, Fawsley, Northants ;
head on helm.

1526. John Shelley, Esq., Clapham, Sussex.

1534. Sir Edmond Tame, Fairford, Gloucs. ; head on
helm ; wearing chain with Tau cross.

1539. Sir John Clerk, Kt., Thame, Oxon. ; kneeling
on cushion.

c. 1 540. Sir William Gascoigne, Cardington, Beds. ; head

1 82 MILITARY COSTUME

on helm ; feet on greyhound. Comptroller

of the household to Cardinal Wolsey.
1546/7. Sir Ralph Verney, Aldbury, Herts. ; head on

helm ; ruffs at wrists.
1 546. Sir John Greville, Weston-upon-Avon, Gloucs. ;

head on helm ; frill at neck ; bearded ; arched

opening in front of the taces.
1548. Sir Humphrey Style, Beckenham, Kent; kneel-
. ing.

1556. Sir John Russell, Strensham, Worcs. ; kneeling ;
wearing chain and mail skirt vandyked.

1559. Sir Edward Greville, Weston-upon-Avon,
Gloucs. ; vandyked mail skirt ; bearing much
resemblance to the effigy of his father, 1546.

Several brasses exist showing a transitional stage, in the
retention of the mail skirt, often vandyked, worn beneath
tassels; the rest of the armour corresponding to that
described in th^ next period. Examples : —

1545. Sir John Arundell, Kt., St. Columb Major, Corn-
wall ; head on helm.

1548. Sir William Molyneux, Sefton, Lanes.; wearing
an antiquated coif de mailles (see p. 146), over
which is a livery collar. The cuirass is en-
graved with a cross moline.

1552. Robert Cheyne, Esq., Chesham Bois, Bucks.;
wearing helmet.^

^559- John, Lord Williams, Thame, Oxon. ; head on
helm ; feet on collared greyhound ; long
mantle, fur lined, fastened on left shoulder.

1 56 1. Sir John Arundell of Trerice, Kt., Stratton, Corn-
wall ; wearing helmet and plate gorget.

1565. John Toke, Esq., Great Chart, Kent.

1565. Sir Edward Warner, Little Plumstead, Norfolk;

head on helm ; feet on collared greyhound.

' Another instance of the helmet worn is at Burgh Wallis, Yorkshire,
I554(?), Thomas Gascoigne, Esq.

MILITARY COSTUME 183

1568. Sir Richard Molyneux, Sefton, Lanes.

1 57 1 . Richard, Ralph and Edward Blondevile, Esquires,

Newton Flotman, Norfolk ; kneeling.

1572. Ralph Jenyns, Esq., Churchill, Somerset.

1 572. Anthony Daston, Esq., Broadway, Worcs.

1 573. Sir William Harper, St. Paul's, Bedford ; head on

helm ; wearing civic mantle.
1576. Richard Tomynw, Esq., Boxley, Kent; head on
helm.

The Tasset Period of armour is the latest, including
the reign of Elizabeth and those of the Stuarts, ^ till
armour fell into disuse. Its characteristic is the substitu-
tion of tassets for the skirt of taces and tuilles, the mail
skirt disappearing except in some transitional instances
just mentioned. The tassets, overlapping plates, taking
the place of the taces, were fastened to the lower edge of
the breast-plate, which became long-waisted and protuber-
ant in the lower part {peascod). The tasset-ends were
either rounded, obtusely pointed, or rectangular ; but
sometimes, usually in later examples (e.g., 1590, Thomas
Nevynson, Esq., Eastry, Kent), joined to the genouillieres
[tassets a I'ecrevisse), which are frequently engraved with
rosettes {e.g., 1583, Hercules Raynsford, Esq., Clifford
Chambers, Gloucs.). The pauldrons, often scroll-shaped,
sometimes nearly meet in front, and frequently have
escalloped edges, as have the tassets, caused by their lining.
The latter are worn above trunk hose, puffed and often
slashed, over which they are bound by straps. The
sabbatons are smaller, the toes being rounded. Ruffs and
frills are worn at neck and wrists. The sword assumes
the modern guard, and sometimes has a tassel ; the
dagger is suspended by a small sash. The hair is cut
short; but moustache and beard are worn. The head
sometimes still rests on the helm (e.g., 1575, John Coso-
warthe, Colan, Cornwall; 1584, John "Wingfield, Esq.,
Easton, Suffolk). Headpieces are seldom worn. A

184 MILITARY COSTUME

plumed instance occurs at Cardington, Beds. (Sir Jarrate
Harvye, 1638).^ Tabards are seldom found, e.g. : —

1 5 6 1 . Henry Hobart, Esq., Loddon, Norfolk ; in splint-

like armour, and wearing gauntlets.

1562. Sir John Russell, Strensham, Worcs.

1562. Sir Gyles Strangwayes, Melbury Sampford,

Dorset ; head on helm.
1565. Sir John Tregonwell, D.C.L., Milton Abbas,

Dorset.

The feet are usually on a chequered pavement or
rounded pedestal. The brass is often not cut away
between the legs and sword.

The following are some examples : —

1 55 1. Edward Leventhorp, Esq., Sawbridgeworth,
Herts.

1567. John Killigrew, Esq., Budock, Cornwall.

1576. Thomas Higate, Esq., Hayes, Middlesex.

1577. Francis Clopton, Esq., Long Melford, Suffolk;

head on helm.

1578. Sir Edward Baynton, Kt., Bromham, Wilts.;

kneeling ; his helmet, with vizor up, lying
beside him.

1587. Thomas Hawkins, Esq., Boughton-under-Blean,
Kent ; tassets joined to genouillieres.

1 59 1. Thomas Stoughton, Gent., St. Martin's, Canter-
bury.

1 593. Humphrey Brewster, Esq., Wrentham, Suffolk.
1 594- John Clippesby, Esq., Clippesby, Norfolk.
1597.'' John Browne, Gent, St. John de Sepulchre,
Norwich.

1602. Christopher Septvans, a/ias Harflete, Esq., Ash-
next-Sandwich, Kent.
c. 1608. Thomas Windham, Esq. (^/. 1599), Felbrigg,
Norfolk.

^ An earlier example is at Norton Disney, Lines., William Disney,
Esq., c. 1 556.

CHRISTOPHER SEPTVANS,
alias HARFLETE, ESQ., 1602,
Ash-nkxt-Sandwich, Kent.

MILITARY COSTUME 185

1 61 8. Nicholas Wadham, Esq. {d. 1609), Ilminster,
Somerset. Founder of Wadham College,
Oxford.

c. 1620. Nicholas Poulett, Esq., Minety, Wilts. ; kneeling

on cushion ; rectangular plate.
c. 1 620. John Mallevorer, Esq., Laughton en le Morthen,

West Yorks.

1625. Sir Arthur Gorges, Kt., St. Luke's, Chelsea;

kneeling; his eldest son similar; on a rect-
angular plate.

1638. William Cleaybroke, Esq., Margate, Kent.

1680. Nicholas Toke, Esq., Great Chart, Kent ; kneel-
ing ; has long hair.

Under the Stuarts large jack-boots with spurs and spur-
leathers take the place of jambs and genouillieres ; the
hair, is worn long, and collars and cuffs supersede ruffs
and frills. A minimum of armour may be seen worn by
George Hodges, c. 1630, Wedmore, Somerset (engraved
in Haines, p. ccxxxviii.). A buff coat with sash has
taken the place of the body armour, a small steel gorget
alone surviving ; breeches and jack boots complete his
suit. A sword hangs by a belt passing over the right
shoulder ; a small pike is held in the right hand.

Examples : —

1^33- John Arundell, Esq., St. Columb Major, Corn-
wall.

c. 1634. John Boscawen, Esq. {d. 1564), St. Michael
Penkevil, Cornwall ; kneeling on cushion ; the
tassets do not reach to the knees.
1638. Sir Edward Filmer, Kt. {d. 1629), East Sutton,
Kent ; in finely engraved armour.' His eldest

I This brass is the work of Ed. Marshall {^see above, Introduction,
p._ 14). In The History and Antiquities of Tottenham High Cms, by-
Richard Randall Dyson, London, 1792, pp. 43-44, is a description of a
marble monument in that church to Mary, wife of Sir Robert Barkham,
1 644, signed " Ed. Marfhall. Sculptor^ This fact will be found men-
tioned in The History and Antiquities of the Parish of Tottenham, by William

i86

MILITARY COSTUME

son, Sir Robert Filmer, stands below in
similar armour, but wears in addition a short
cloak with the arms hanging loose. He
wears a collar, while Sir Edward has a fine
ruff.

1650. Ralph Assheton, Esq., Middleton, Lanes.;

locally engraved.
1655. Adam Beaumont, Esq., Kirkheaton, West

Yorks. ; wearing sword on the right side.

Knights of the Garter.

Brasses of Knights of the Most Noble Order of the
Garter,' founded by Edward III., 1349, are rare. The
following occur. The Garter is worn just below the
knee on the left leg.

1409. Sir Peter Courtenay, Exeter Cathedral ; in armour
of the Camail period.

141 6. Sir Simon Felbrigge, Felbrigg, Norfolk; in com-
plete plate armour.

1424. Thomas, Lord Camoys, Trotton, Sussex; in plate
armour, wearing collar of SS. {d. 14 19).
Ralph, Baron Cromwell, Tattershall, Lines.;
Lord High Treasurer of England to Henry
VI. ; much injured ; wearing the Mantle.
The badge is not visible owing to the loss of
the shoulder.

1483. Henry Bourchier, Earl of Essex, Little Easton,
Essex ; in armour, with Collar of suns and
roses ; wearing the Mantle, with badge on the
left shoulder.

Robinson, LL.D., F.S.A., 181 8, p. 86 (2nd ed., 1840, Vol. II., p. 41)'
much of which work seems to have been derived from that of Dyson*
though we fail to find any mention of the latter's name.

' A good article on this subject is " Garter Brasses," by John Alt
Porter (in T/ie Jntiquary, Vol. XIV., November, 1886, p. 197), who
writes in WalforcTs Jntiquary, Vol. X., July to December, 1886,
pp. 167; 253, on "Garter Knights Degraded."

MILITARY COSTUME 187

1538. Sir Thomas Bullen, "Erie of Wilschcr and erle
of Ormunde," Hever, Kent; wearing a
jewelled coronet or cap, and over his armour
the full insignia : Surcoat, Mantle with badge
on left shoulder, the Humerale, or Hood over
the right shoulder. Collar of Garters, each
enclosing a rose, and the Garter.

At Holy Trinity Church, Chester, is an inscription to
Henry Gee, died 1545, which is palimpsest, the reverse
showing part of a brass of a Knight of the Garter, c. 1520,
from which it is evident that the knight wore over his
armour the Mantle of the Order, and the Garter on his
left leg.

A fine matrix remains at Pleshey, Essex, 1480, showing
the outlines of the brass of Humfrey Stafford, ist Duke
of Buckingham, K.G., with Anne his wife, beneath a fine
canopy. His head rests on his helm, and he wears the
Mantle of the Garter, similarly to Henry Bourchier,
Earl of Essex, 1483, at Little Easton, in the same county.

The lost brasses of Thomas, 2nd Duke of Norfolk,
K.G., 1524, and Agnes his wife, are illustrated in Norfolk
Archeology, Vol. VIII. (1879). The Duke wears the
Mantle of the Order; the Duchess an heraldic mantle.
Originally at Thetford Priory, Norfolk, these brasses
were removed at the dissolution to St. Mary's Church,
Lambeth. At Painswick, Gloucs., is the matrix of Sir
WiUiam Kyngston, K.G., and Lady, 1540. He was
depicted kneeling, in the Mantle of the Garter. His coat
of arms was given enclosed in a Garter.'

^ See pp. 2 1 6-2 1 7 The Monumental Brasses of Gloucestershire, by Cecil T.
Davis; London, 1899. A few instances occurring on brasses of the
coat-of-arms surrounded by the Garter, are as follows : —

141 6 On the brass of Robert Hallum, Bishop of Salisbury, in Con-
stance Cathedral ; France and England quarterly.

1424 On the Camoys brass, at Trotton, Sussex, two shields bearing :

Argent on a chief gules three plates (Camoys).
c 1535 Lady Katherine Howard, d. 1452, Stoke-by-Nayland, Suffolk
(illustrated by Cotman) ; the Howard arms within a Garter,
the motto being in Roman capitals (lost).

1 88 MILITARY COSTUME

The late Duke of Devonshire in 1867 laid down brasses
in Skipton in Craven Church, Yorkshire, to replace those
stolen in the seventeenth century, representing Henry
Clifford, 1st Earl of Cumberland, K.G., and Margaret,
daughter of Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, his
Countess, 1542. The Earl is shown in armour of the
mail-skirt period, and wearing the Garter ; the Countess
in a pedimental headdress surmounted by a coronet, and
wearing an heraldic mantle. Four shields are each sur-
rounded by the Garter.

Livery Collars on Military Brasses.

Of the much-disputed meaning of the letters SS. worn
collar-wise, we do not propose to treat.^ That the collar
of SS. was as much an insigne of the House of Lancaster,
as that of suns and white roses was of the House of
York, there seems no doubt. Of their use the late

1555 Lady Jane Guildford, Duchess of Northumberland, sole heiress
to Sir Edward Guyldeford, K.G., St. Luke's, Chelsea ; kneeling
in heraldic mantle. Her arms enclosed in a Garter above.
1557 Mural; above sculptured effigies of Sir John Gage, K.G.,
" preclari ordinis Garterii," Constable of the Tower of
London, and wife Phillipa, West Firle, Sussex.
c 1580-82 On brass to two sons of Arthur, Lord Grey of Wilton, in
Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin. They died at the Castle.
At Woodrising, Norfolk, is an achievement for Sir Francis Crane,
Chancellor of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, 1636; below the
shield is a badge, consisting of a rose, encircled by the Garter motto. See
illustration, p. 325, Vol. L, Farrer's Church Heraldry of 'Norfolk, 1885.
In this connection we may mention the Stall Plates of the Knights of
the Garter in St. George's Chapel, Windsor, of which over five hundred
survive, made of copper, many of them finely enamelled and gilt, and a
few palimpsest. See the illustrations of fifteenth century plates in The
Stall Plates of the Knights of the Order of the Garter, 1348-1485,- A Series
of 'Ninety Full-sized Coloured Facsimiles, with descriptive Notes and Historical
Introductions, by W. H. St. John Hope, M.A. Westminster : Constable,
1901.

^ See " On Collars of the Royal Livery," by J. G. Nichols, Gentleman's
Magazine, New Series, Vol. XVIL, January to June, 1842, pp. 157, 250,
378, 477; Vol. XVIIL, July to December, 1842, pp. 353, 595 ; Vol.
XIX., January to June, 1843, p. 258. And the same author's "Notes

MILITARY COSTUME 189

Mr. John H. Mayo wrote as follows' : — " Of the various
" collars which were in use in this country prior to the
" institution of the Collar of the Order of the Garter by
" Henry VII., the best-known is the Collar of SS., repre-
" sentations of which are seen in many monumental
" effigies and brasses, usually those of knights. It is also
" met with on effigies of ladies, and in such cases the
" lady is nearly always beside her husband. In its earlier
" form it consisted of a band or strip of leather or other
"material to which the SS. were affixed; at a later time
" the SS. were linked together, and the band disappeared.
" This collar was the livery of the Lancastrian kings. It
" seems to have first made its appearance in this country
in the latter half of the fourteenth century. With the

in Illustration of the Wills of Joan, Lady Cobham, and Eleanor, Lady
Arundell, Surrey Archceolo^cal Collections, Vol. IIL, 1865, p. 354..

" Hackington, or St. Stephen's, Canterbury, Collar of SS.," by Edward
Foss, F.S.A., Arch<£ologia Cantiana, Vol. L, 1858, pp. 73-93.

" Notes on Collars of SS.," by Albert Hartshorne, F.S.A., Archceolo^cal
Journal, 1882, Vol. XXXIX., p. 376.

" On the SS. Collar, and others," by H. K. St.-J. Sanderson, M.A.,
Transactions of the Cambridge University Association of Brass Collectors,
Vol. I., No. vii., February, 1890, p. 6.

" Seneschallus " seems the most probable meaning. Other interpreta-
tions are " Souverayne," " Sanctus," " Souvenez," " Societas," " Silentium,"
" Signum," " Soissons " (Martyrs of : St. Crespin and St. Crespinian),
" St. Simpliciui," " Countess of Salisbury," etc. Whatever its origin its
decorative effect may have had something to do with the retention of
this collar.

If the explanation that the letter stands for " Souverayne," Henry IV.'s
motto, be correct, it is of interest to note that the word " Souverayne "
is^ repeated on the wooden canopy above the effigies of Henry IV. and
his Queen, Joan of Navarre, in Canterbury Cathedral, on which canopy
may be seen a device attributed to the Queen, and supposed by Gough
to represent a sable, by Sandford an ermine, collared, under a crown {see
Cough's Sepulchral Monuments, Vol. II., Part ii., p. 32). Haines mentions
a brass of "a Man in armour, c. 1390," formerly at Mildenhall, Suffolk,
and engraved by Hollis (Part 3, No. 8, December ist, 1840), whose
livery collar had as pendant a similar badge, supposed by Haines to be a
lion or a dog. See Planche, sub Collar.

I Medals and Decorations of the British Army and Navy, by John H
Mayo. London: Constable; 1897. Vol. I., pp. xliv. to lii.

I90 MILITARY COSTUME

"accession of the Yorkists to power in 1461, their Collar
" of Suns and Roses came into use ; but on the accession
"of Henry Vll. in 1485, the Collar of SS. was revived.
" In the time of the Tudors their badge of the portcullis,
" a former badge of the Beauforts, was used in conjunc-

" tion with the letter S., as was likewise the Union rose

" the collars thus combining the Lancastrian, the Yorkist,
" and the Tudor devices. In the reign of Henry VIIL
"the collar appears to have become, to some extent, a
" badge of civil office, and to have ceased to bear any
" political significance. At any rate, it is not met with on
" effigies of knights in armour in that period, and it may
" therefore be inferred that it had gone out of fashion as
"a military badge."'

The following brasses show the SS. collar (where the
lady is mentioned she also wears it) : —

1405. Sir Thomas Massyngberde and Lady, Gunby,
Lines.

1407. Sir William Bagot and Lady, Baginton, War-
wickshire.

1 410. Sir John Routh and Lady, Routh, Yorks.

c. 14 10. Sir Thomas Burton {d. 1382), Little Casterton,
Rutland.

141 1. Sir John Drayton, Dorchester, Oxon.

141 2. Sir Thomas Swynborne, Little Horkesley, Essex.
141 5. Sir Robert Suckling, Barsham, Suffolk.

141 5. Sir Thomas Peryent and Lady, Digswell, Herts.

14 1 5. Sir John Phelip, Walter Cookesey, Esq., and

Lady, Kidderminster, Worcs.

141 6. Matthew Swetenham,Esq.,Blakesley,Northants.
1420. Sir Arnold Savage, Bobbing, Kent.

1420. Sir William Calthorpe, Burnham Thorpe,
Norfolk.

1424. Thomas, Lord Camoys, and Lady, Trotton,
Sussex.

^ Vol. I., p, xlviii., with illustration of Camoys brass, Trotton, Sussex.

SIR JOHN DRAYTON, 141 1,
Dorchester, Oxon.

C.B.]

MILITARY COSTUME 191

1426. Sir Thomas le Straunge, Wellesbourne, War-
wickshire.

1 43 1. Edward de la Hale, Esq., Oakwood, Surrey.
1435. Thomas Wideville, Esq., Bromham, Beds.
1444. John Frogenhall, Esq., Teynham, Kent.

1444. " Nicholas Manston, Esq., St. Lawrence, Thanet,

Kent.

c. 1450. A man in armour, South Kensington Museum,
London.

145 1. Sir John Bernard, Isleham, Cambs.
c. 1475. Nicholas Kniveton, Esq., Mugginton, Derby.
c. 1490. — Guise, Esq., Aspley Guise, Beds.
c. 1490. Sir William Pyrton, Little Bentley, Essex.

Collars of Suns and Roses.

1465. John Theel, Esq., Arundel, Sussex.

1470. Sir William Yelverton, Rougham, Norfolk.

1 47 1. Thomas Colte, Esq., and wife, Roydon, Essex.
1 47 1 . Thomas Clarell, Esq., Lillingstone Lovell, Oxon.
1473. Sir John Say, Broxbourne, Herts.

1478. Robert Bothe, Esq., Sawley, Derbyshire.
1480. Sir Anthony Grey, St. Alban's Abbey, Herts.
1483. Henry Bourchier, Earl of Essex, and Countess,
Little Easton, Essex.
c. 1490. Nicholas Gaynesford, Esq., Carshalton, Surrey.

Some effigies have collars, the nature of which it is
impossible to determine, such are : —

1410. Sir John Wylcotes {d. Great Tew, Oxon.

1445. Sir Thomas de St. Quintin, Harpham, Yorks.
c. 1460. A man in armour, Adderbury, Oxon.

1465. A man in armour. Manners.? Helmsley,
Yorkshire (possibly collar of suns and roses).

Thomas, Lord Berkeley, 1392, Wotton- under -Edge,
Gloucs., wears a family collar of Mermaids.' A trefoil

' A curious collar, that of park palings, with a hart lodged, occurs on
the stone effigy of Sir Thomas Markenfield in Ripon Cathedral.

192 MILITARY COSTUME

toret or clasp is sometimes found on collars of SS. The
Countess of Essex (1483) at Little Easton, wears as
pendant the White Lion of March : which may be that
worn by Jenkyn Smyth, Esq. {c. 1480) St. Mary, Bury
St. Edmunds, Suffolk.

Two brasses of Serjeants-at-arms (seruiens ad armd)
exist, showing the mace indicative of their office.''

1420. Nicholas Wandsworth, Surrey.

" Serviens Regis Henrici quinti ad arma."
1 53 1. John Borrell, Sergeant-at-Arms to Henry VIII.,

Broxbourne, Herts.

A third instance is at Shopland, Essex : — Thomas Stapel
(1371-2) in armour of the Camail period but without a
mace. " Jadis Seriant d'Armes nostre Seigneur le Roi "
{see illustration, p. 218, Vol. V., 1896, Essex Renjiew).
Thomas Broke, Esq., Serjeant-at-arms to Henry VIII, , at
Ewelme, Oxon., 15 1 8, wears armour of the Mail-skirt
period, with sword and misericorde. At Bray, Berks., is
an inscription to William Smyth, Esq., Serjeant-at-arms to
Queens Mary and Elizabeth, 1594.

The brass of Bishop Robert Wyvill, 1375, in Salisbury
Cathedral, affords an instance of the croc, baton^ Or
martel-de-fer'' {Justis comutus) held by Richard Shawell,
champion of the Bishop in his suit against William
de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury, for the recovery
of Sherborne Castle, Dorset. The champion is repre-
sented standing at the gate of the outer ward, in

1 See Planche, sub Mace, who mentionsi French stone examples of the
fifteenth century. These are engraved in Willemin's Monuments Fran^ais
Incdits, 1839, and there dated 13 14. Pettier states that they were
taken to St. Denis from the Musee des Monuments fran9ais, and that
they were formerly at the Church of Sainte Catherine du Val des
Ecoliers, Saint Antoine, Paris. See " On a brass in Wandsworth Church,"
by Mill Stephenson, B.A., F.S.A., Surrey Archceolo^cal Collections, Vol. X.,
1891, p. 293.

2 An instance of this pickaxe-like weapon may be seen held by a
sculptured effigy in Great Malvern Abbey, Worcs.

MILITARY COSTUME

front of the portcullis, wearing tight-fitting hose and
leathern jack. Round his neck is suspended a shield,
with a hole in the centre. The Bishop obtained posses-
sion of the castle on payment of 2,500 marks. ^ (^See Kite's
Monumental Brasses of Wiltshire^

Halberds are found held by the soldiers in representa-
tions of the Resurrection, connected with tombs used as
Easter Sepulchres, at Hedgerley, Bucks, c. 1500, on re-
verse of palimpsest shield of brass of Margaret, wife of
Edward Bulstrode, Esq., 1540; at Swansea, Glam., Sir
Hugh Johnys and lady, c. 1500, on which also appear a
spiked mace, or morning star (morgenstern)^ a holy-water
sprinkler^ or military flail^ and a scimitar ; at Cranley, Surrey,
1503, from the destroyed monument of Robert Hardyng
and wife; and at Narburgh, Norfolk, 1545, Sir John
Spelman and lady. Other examples are at Great Coates,
Lines., 1503 ; All Hallows Barking, London, 1510 ; and
Slaugham, Sussex, 1547.^

^'"^^ °^ ^^^'^^ successors held Sherborne un-

" disturbed till the Reformation, when the castle was granted first to
" the Paulets by Edward VI. and afterwards by Elizabeth to Sir Walter
" eigh, who built the adjacent house, and probably fitted up the Castle
"Itself for a residence m the meantime. The estate was wrenched by
chicane by Janies I. from the son of Sir Walter, and finally it came to
Digby, Earl of Bristol." " Sherborne Castle," by Mr. G. T Clark p 3 1

Vol. XX., 1874, Proceedings of the Somersetshire Jrchceological and Natura)
History Society.

»S«" The Resurrection as represented in Monumental Brasses," by

o

CHAPTER IV.

[C.B.

CHAPTER IV.

OF CIVILIAN COSTUME ON BRASSES

The costume of Civilians in the fourteenth century is
illustrated, by a few, but important brasses, containing in
their number four of the fine Flemish class, already men-
tioned {see above, p. 43). Two of the earlier examples
are placed in the heads of floriated crosses : —

c. 1325. lohan de Bladigdone (with wife Maud), small
half effigies. East Wickham, Kent, with in-
scription in Lombardic lettering on stem of
cross : —

+ lOHAN DE BLADIGDONE ET MAVD S

c. 1350. Nichole de Aumberdene, Taplow, Bucks.

The large Flemish brasses at St. Margaret's, Lynn : —

1349. Adam de Walsokne (with wife Margaret),
1364. Robert Braunche (with wives Leticia and Mar-
garet),

and at Newark, Notts, 1361, Alan Fleming, show the
costume excellently. The most conspicuous feature is
the CoTE-HARDiE, which term appears to have been given
to garments of somewhat different shapes. On the three
Flemish brasses and that at Taplow it fits the body
somewhat loosely. Its skirt, prolonged nearly to the
ankles, is slit up in front like a military surcoat, and at
Newark and Taplow shows two pocket-holes in front.
The sleeves terminate at the elbows, from which depend
liripipia,' or lappets of varying length. On the fore-arms

^ Mr. Mill Stephenson, in his description of the Hampsthwaite brass
(in tYic rorkshire JrMogical Journal, Vol. XV., p. 21, 1898), considers
these hripipes to belong to the tippet. But there seems to be reason
for connecting them with the sleeves, since in examples of this class the
chaperon would have but one liripipe formed by the tip of the hood • the
fashion of wearing it turban-wise produced the two ends. The illumi-
nations of contemporary MSS., such as the famous Luttrell Psalter

198 CIVILIAN COSTUME

appear the tight-fitting sleeves of an under-tunic or vest,
each sleeve bearing on the underside a long row of
buttons. Similar sleeves are found on the shorter form
of the cote-hardie described below. Round the neck and
over the shoulders is worn the Chaperon, consisting of
tippet and hood in one piece. On the legs are tight hose,
over which on the feet are worn pointed shoes, fastened
by a strap across the instep at Newark, and by laces on
the inside of the foot at Lynn. To wear the hair long
and wavy seems to have been the fashion, and beards and
moustaches, the former sometimes bifurcated, are usual.
Adam de Walsokne, however, and Alan Fleming are
clean-shaven.

The other form of cote-hardie^ with which we are con-
cerned, was shorter, not reaching to the knees, fitted the
body closely (Just au corps), and was, usually, buttoned
down the front.' A good instance of this, with tight
mitten sleeves without liripipes, is seen on the kneeling
effigy of Robert de Paris, c. 1379, Hildersham, Cambs.
He wears the mantle, described below, and a horizontal
bawdric sustaining an anelace." Other instances are : —

(reproduced in Vetusta Monumenta,No\. VI.), throw valuable light on the
shape of the chaperon and on the different modes of wearing it. ^ec also
Planche, Cyclopaedia of Costume, sub mm. Hood,

1 The lost brass of Simon Walshe (with wife Joan), c. i 3 70, St. Alkmund,
Shrewsbury, showed this costume with liripipes, as do tiles found at the
Abbeys of Strata Florida and Strata Marcella. See illustration m The
Cistercian Abbey of Strata Florida, its History, and an account of the recent
excavations made on its site, by Stephen W. Williams, F.R.I.B.A., London,
1889. The same pattern is on tiles from Shrewsbury and Haughmond
Abbeys. See "On Encaustic Tiles," by Llewellyn Jewitt, Journal oj
British Archaolo^cal Association, Vol. II., 1847, p. 261.

2 A very beautiful instance of an embroidered short cote-hardie with
horizontal bawdric, worn with a mantle, fastened on the right shoulder,
the edges dagged in the form of leaves, is to be seen at York Minster, on
the sculptured effigy of the young prince, William of Hatfield second
son of Edward III. Other examples of the costume are afforded by he
sculptured effigy of William of Windsor, another young son of Edward 111.,
in St. Edmund's Chapel, Westminster Abbey, and by the figures of the
children of Edward III. on his tomb, and of those of Elizabeth, Lady
Montacute, at Christ Church, Oxford.

CIVILIAN COSTUME 199

c. 1325. lohan de Bladigdone, East Wickham, Kent,
half effigy with liripipia.

c. 1350. A Civilian, Hampsthwaite, W. Yorks, with
liripipia. Attached to the left side of a
buckled belt worn horizontally is a gypciere,
or purse (from Fr. gibier), with an anelace
secured by being passed through the lappets
which fasten the gypciere to the girdle.'

c. 1350. A Civilian on reverse of inscription to William
Wolstonton, 1403, Great Bowden, Leicester-
shire. Flemish ; same costume as last, but
without gypciere or anelace.^

c. 1350. A CiviHan (with wife), Upchurch, Kent, half
effigies, each wearing a cote-hardie with
plain sleeves, reaching half-way between elbow
and wrist ; buttons only on the sleeves of the
undertunic which end at the wrists ; no liri-
pipia.

c. 1360. Raulin Brocas (with sister), Sherborne St. John,
Hants, half effigy, a clean-shaven boy, wearing
a cote-hardie like the last, except that it has
buttons down the front. The buttoned
sleeves of the undertunic end in mittens ; no
liripipia.

c. 1360. The bust of a Civilian at Blickling, Norfolk,
showing the chaperon, worn by a man with
flowing hair and pointed beard.

c. 1360. John de Walden, Ashbury, Berks, half effigy.

f. 1360. Beneit Engliss', Nuffield, Oxon., half effigy;

' A similar mode of wearing gypciere and anelace is illustrated by
Waller from a Flemish brass, c. 1350, of a civilian in Bruges Cathedral.

For some account of gycieres, see Journal of the British Archaological
Association, Vol. XIV., 1858, p. 131, "History of Purses," by H. Syer
Cuming.

2 Illustrated in Transactions of Monumental Brass Society, Vol. IV., p. 160,
described p. 1 6 1 . The feet rest on a dog. The edge of the chaperon is
"pmked." The beard is bifurcated. There is a fine diapered back-
ground.

200

CIVILIAN COSTUME

buttons under fore-arm of cote-hardie ; no
liripipia.

c. 1370. John de Faversham ? (with mother), Graveney,
Kent, half effigy similar to the last, but with
buttons in front.

c. 1370. A Civilian, Deddington, Oxon., half effigy.

c„ 1370. A Civilian, Cheam, Surrey, mutilated; under-
tunic has mitten sleeves with buttons ; no
liripipes to the cote-hardie; small hood; forked
beard ; hair cut close.

c. 1370. A Civilian, Cheam, Surrey, half effigy; the
cote-hardie had liripipes, but their length is
not discernible owing to the half-effigy ; the
undertunic sleeves have buttons ; there is
a beard, but the hair is cut close.

c. 1 370. John de Kyggesfolde (with wife, Agnes), Rusper,
Sussex, half effigy ; short hair ; clean shaven.

c. 1370. Richard de Heylesdone (with wife, Beatrice),
Hellesdon, Norfolk, three-quarter effigy;
wearing a looser garment than the foregoing,
with no buttons. The mitten sleeves of the
undertunic appear.

Some brasses, belonging for the most part to the last
quarter of the century, show a costume differing some-
what from the foregoing. The tunic or cote is long and
full, reaching below the knees, has tight sleeves, and is
confined at the waist by a girdle from which, usually on
the left side, hangs the anelace or basilard, a large couteau
de chasse, in its sheath. The open character of the tunic
is indicated by the appearance of buttons down the front
(as at Shottesbrooke, Berks, c. 1370). Over this cote-
hardie is worn a loose mantle, fastened by buttons, of
which two or three are seen, on the right shoulder ; —
a shape which we find associated, later on, with Judges
and Civic Dignitaries. Worn round the neck, perhaps
attached to the mantle, is a chaperon, sometimes showing
buttons {e.g.. Kings Sombourne, Hants, c. 1380), the

I

I

i

CIVILIAN COSTUME

20I

tippet part of which does not appear owing to the presence
of the mantle. The mitten sleeves of the undertunic
frequently appear. The hair, as a rule, is worn shorter
than in the previous examples. The forked beard is re-
tained. The feet rest on the ground. The following
are noted by Haines : —

c. 1370. A Frankelein (with Priest), Shottesbrooke,
Berks.

c. 1380. Two Civilians, Kings Sombourne, Hants; the
one with beard, the other clean-shaven.

1380. Simon de Felbrig, Felbrigg, Norfolk; long
hair, anelace on right side.

1 39 1. Thomas de TopclyfF (with wife), Topcliffe,
Yorks. ; Flemish ; anelace on right side.'

139 1. John Curteys (with widow), Wymington, Beds. ;

Mayor of the Staple of Calais ; feet on dog.

1398. Walter Pescod, Boston, Lines. The left side
of his tunic semee of peascods : possibly a
rare example on a brass of the fashionable
parti-coloured garments of the period. No
anelace is visible.
c. 1400. A Wool Merchant (with wife), Northleach,
Gloucs. The pendent end of the girdle has
the letter T. ; feet on wool-pack.

1 40 1. William Grevel (with wife), Chipping Campden,
Gloucs. : " quondm' Ciuis London' & flos
m'cator' lanar' tocius Anglie."

A Frankelein, c. 1370, at Cheam, Surrey, has no mantle,
which omission is shared by the following : —

c. 1380. John Pecok (with wife), St. Michael's, St.
Alban's, Herts.
1 39 1. John Corp (with granddaughter on pedestal),
Stoke Fleming, Devon ; wavy hair ; the cote

^The lost brass of Robert Attelath, 1376, formerly at St. Margaret's
Lynn was a fine example of this class. No anelace appeared. The feet
rested on two lions addorsed. A Civilian (lost) c. 1400, St. Alkmund,
bhrewsbury, was another mstance, showing mantle and anelace

202

CIVILIAN COSTUME

is fur-edged. The bawdric holding the anelace
passes over the right shoulder.
c. 1400. A Civilian, Ore, Sussex; similar to the last.

A long, loose tunic, like a night-gown, with a hood, is
worn by the following : —

1356. Richard Torrington (with wife), Great Berk-
hampstead, Herts. ; the sleeves turned back
from the wrists.
1380. A Civilian (.''Robert de Brentyngham), East

Horsley, Surrey, half effigy.
1396. A Civilian, Temple Church, Bristol, half effigy.
c. 1400. William Overbury (with wife), Letchworth,

Herts, half effigy.
c. 1400. Thomas Somer (with wife), Ickleford, Herts,
half effigy.

c. 1400. John de Estbury (with wife), Lambourn, Berks,
half effigy.

c, 1400. John Covesgrave, Eaton Socon, Beds.

The brass of a Civilian, c. 1390, once in the head of a
floriated cross, cited by Haines, in Hereford Cathedral,
shows a tunic sleeve indicating the transition to the bag-
sleeve of the next period. The feet rest on a dog.

The small figures on the Walsokne, Braunche, and
Fleming brasses, above mentioned, give additional illustra-
tion of the costume of the period. At Harrow, the reverse
of the inscription commemorating Dorothy Frankishe, 1 5 74,
shows the side shaft of a canopy of Flemish work, c. 1370,
containing two figures in chaperons, the long Hripipe of
that of the small person reading, in a sitting posture, being
very distinct.

In the reign of Henry IV. we find a change in the
tunic. It is long and loose, with a buttoned collar, high
in the neck, and the skirt partly slit up from the bottom.
But the most distinct difference from the tunic, lately de-
scribed, is in the sleeves. These become very full and

CIVILIAN COSTUME 203

bag-like in the arms,' but are tight at the wrists, which
have an edging of fur, and in early examples {e.g., c. 1400,
a Civilian, Tilbrook, Beds) have a single button beneath
the wrist. From beneath these sleeves appear those of
the under-tunic, sometimes prolonged into mittens. The
tunic, confined at the waist by a girdle, is often lined and
edged with fur. Over this is worn the hood, and, more
rarely, the mantle and hood. The hair is usually treated,
as already described, brushed back and kept short on the
head. Moustache and small forked beard are worn.
Pointed shoes are seen over the hose, or the hose appear
alone, without shoes. Examples : —

1400. John Mulsho, Esq., Newton-by-Geddington,
Northants, kneeling at the base of a floriated
cross, in the head of which stands St. Faith ;
no girdle.

c. 1400. A Civilian, Tilbrook, Beds. ; the hair wavy; a
large anelace suspended in front ; feet on dog.

c. 1400. A Civilian in head of octofoiled cross, St.

Michael's, St. Alban's ; no hood ; anelace
hanging from girdle on left side.

c. 1400. A Wine Merchant, Cirencester, Gloucs. ; head
lost; tunic reaching to the feet; letter T on
end of girdle ; feet on wine-cask.
1 402 . Richard Martyn, Dartford, Kent, wearing mantle;
feet on ground ; girdle, if any, hidden.

c. 1405. Herry Notingham, Holm-by-the-Sea, Nor-
folk ; wearing anelace ; similar in style to the
civilian at Tilbrook.
1409. Robert de Haitfeld (d. 141 7) with wife, Owston,

I "The anonymous writer of a life of Richard II. (a monk of Evesham)
"speaks of gowns with deep wide sleeves, commonly called pokys, shaped
"like a bagpipe: 'Maxime togatorum cum profundis et latis manicis
" vocatis vulgariter pokys ad modum bagpipe formatus ; ' they are also,
"he says,_rightly termed, 'devils' receptacles'— receptacula dsmoniorum

"recte dici — for whatever could be stolen was put into them."

Planche, Cyclopedia of Costume, 1876, Vol. I., "Dictionary," p. 466,
sub Sleeve.

204

CIVILIAN COSTUME

Yorks ; wavy hair ; anelace hanging from girdle
on left side. He holds the end of girdle in
his left hand, and with his right the right
hand of his wife, who occupies the dexter
side. Each wears a collar, possibly of SS.'

141 1. Hugo de Gondeby, Supervisor to Ralph, Lord
Cromwell, Tattershall, Lines. ; anelace.
c. 141 1. John Barstaple, Founder, Trinity Almshouses,
Bristol ; anelace on left side.

14 14. The seven small head-and-shoulders effigies of
the brothers of Philippa Carreu, Beddington,
Surrey.

141 6. Thomas Stokes, Esq., Ashby St. Legers, North-
ants ; early instance of roll-shaped hair, worn
with forked beard.

T417. Geoffi-ey Barbur, half effigy, St. Helen's, Abing-
don, Berks.

1 4 1 8 . Thomas Polton, half effigy, Wanborough, Wilts. ;

hood.

141 9. John Lyndewode, woolman, Linwood, Lines.;

wearing mantle; girdle not visible; feet on
wool-pack. His three sons below wear
similar tunics, but no mantles. For the
fourth son, see p. 132.

1420. John Urban, Southfleet, Kent ; waved hair ; no

beard ; without hood.

' An instance of a brass of a civilian, wearing collar of SS., is afforded
by that of Sir Thomas Brook (d. 141 9), Thorncombe, Devon (mentioned
below p. 206). The sculptured effigy of John Gower, d. 1402, at St.
Saviour's, Southwark, shows a collar of SS., with swan badge. At Ashby
de la Zouch, Leics., is the alabaster effigy of Ralph Hastings, late fifteenth
century, clad as a pilgrim and wearing a collar of SS. (see Archaological
Journal, Vol. XXXVI., 1879, p. 102). The stone effigy of William
Staunton (?) c. 1 500, at Elford, Staffs., is not in armour, but has collar
of SS. (illustrated in The Monumental Effigies and Tombs in Elford Churchy
Staffordshire, with a Memoir and Pedigree of the lords of Elford, by Edward
Richardson, Sculptor, The Restorer and Illustrator of the Temple Church
Effigies, etc. London : George Bell, 168 Fleet Street, and of the Author,
Melbury Terrace, Harevvood Square. 1852. Folio).

CIVILIAN COSTUME 205

c. 1420 (Haines). A Civilian, Furneaux Pelham, Herts. ;

anelace ; feet on dog (? John Barloe with wife
Joan).

1 42 1. John Lyndewode, woolman, Linwood, Lines.

(son of above) ; anelace ; feet on v/ool-pack

bearing a merchant's mark.
1425. William Chichele, Higham Ferrers, Northants ;

wearing mantle; no girdle ; feet on dog. Sheriff

and Alderman of London.
1425. Roger Sender, Erith, Kent; the tunic only

reaching just below the knees.
c. 1425. Hugo atte Spetyll, Luton, Beds. ; tight sleeves ;

hood ; no girdle. (Wife lost ; son John in

mass vestments.)
1427. William Bayly, half effigy, Berwick Basset,

Wilts. ; hood ; similar to Thomas Polton,

above.

1429. Roger Thornton, All Saints', Newcastle-on-

Tyne ; Flemish ; hair wavy ; tunic reaching to
feet ; very long anelace hanging from girdle
on left side, with ornamented scabbard ; feet
on dog gnawing a bone. The seven sons
beneath have shorter tunics and no anelaces.

1 430. William West, marbler, Sudborough, Northants ;

small, standing next to John West, priest {see
pp. 68, 71).

143 1. Nicholas Canteys, Margate, Kent; long beard;

anelace on left side ; boots embroidered with
stars, and laced up on the inner side.

At Baldock, Herts., is a Civilian, dated by Haines
c. 1420, attired as a hunter, possibly William Vynter,
141 6. ^ He wears a girded tunic, reaching to the knees,
with tight sleeves, and a hood ; flowing hair and forked
beard ; a horn hanging on his right side by a strap passino-
over the left shoulder. On his left side an anelace, the
scabbard of which sheathes two smaller knives (^has-
tardeau "), hangs from the girdle, and a coil of rope, one

2o6

CIVILIAN COSTUME

end of which seems to have been fastened to a dog at the
feet ; but the part below the knees of the effigy is lost.

Towards the middle of the century some changes are
observable. The hood goes out of use. The fur-lined
tunic has a shorter skirt, and less " baggy " sleeves. The
undergarment appears at the wrists, and sometimes at the
neck. The hose often are seen on the feet without half-
boots. The hair is cut close, assuming a roll-shaped
form. The face is clean-shaven. The anelace is rarely
worn. A fur-lined, girded tunic, with surplice-like hang-
ing sleeves, probably the '■^ houppelande^'' is worn by Sir
Thomas Brook, 1437 (d. 141 9V Thorncombe, Devon,
whose feet rest on a hound. A similar tunic, but with
broad, falling collar, showing the under-tunic at the neck,
is seen at Trotton, Sussex, on the small figure of Sir
Richard Camoys, standing beside his mother on the brass
of Lord and Lady Camoys, 1424.^

A few of the numerous extant examples of the ordinary
costume are as follows : —

c. 1430. A Civilian (with priest and lady). Melton,
Suffolk ; wearing a hood ; feet lost.

^ He wears Collar of SS.

2 Similar gowns are worn with turban-wise chaperons by small figures
on the sides of the alabaster altar-tomb of Sir Thomxas Arderne, Kt.
c. 1400, and Matilda, his lady, Elford, Staffs. Motiumcntal Effi^es
and Tombs in Elford Church, Staffordshire, by Edward Richardson, cited
above, p. 204 note. See also illustration in Planche from Royal MS. 1 5, E 6,
in which John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, wearing a houppelande, pre-
sents a book to Henry IV. and his Queen. See also "The Miniatures
in Harleian MS. 1,319," reproduced in \.h.& Burlington Magazine, Maj
and June, 1904, "A Contemporary Account of the Fall of Richard the
Second," by Sir Edward Maunde Thompson, K.C.B. An example of
similar arrangement to that on the Camoys brass (son on mother's skirt)
is afforded by an incised slab at Longforgan, Perthshire, c. 1420, Johanes
de Galychtly and Mariota, his wife (the son, like the father, in armour).
See " Notice of an Incised Sepulchral Slab found in the Church of Long-
forgan, Perthshire," by A. H. Millar, F.S.A. Scot., Proceedings of the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Vol. XXXIV., 1900, p. 463 (illus. p. 464).

CIVILIAN COSTUME 207

c. 1430. John Todenham, St. John Maddermarket,
Norwich.

1432. Nicholas CareWjBeddington, Surrey; feet on dog.
1435. Joh'^ Ailmer, Erith, Kent; wearing half-boots.
c. 1435.. Hugo Bostock, Wheathampstead, Herts. ; father

of John de Whethamstede, Abbot of St.

Alban's.

1437. Robert Skern, Kingston-on-Thames, Surrey;

girdle ornamented with rosettes hanging down
on left side (no anelace, as supposed by
Haines).

1437. John Bacon, woolman. All Hallows' Barking,

London ; feet on wool-pack ; boots laced up on

the inner side.
1439. Edmund Forde, Esq., Swainswick, Somerset;

anelace hanging on left side.
1440 (?) Robert Pagge, Cirencester, Gloucs. ; feet on

wool-pack with merchant's mark ; boots laced

up on inner side.

144 1 . John Parker, Margate, Kent ; feet on dog ; boots

like Pagge's.

1442. Peter Stone, Margate, Kent ; similar to last, but

wearing anelace on left side.
1447. Thomas Fortey, woolman, and William Scors,
tailor, Northleach, Gloucs. ; their boots
fastened in front ; between Scors' feet a pair
of shears.

1449. John Quek (and son), Birchington, Kent ; wear-

ing anelace on left side. Each wears boots like
Pagge's.

1450. William Welley, merchant. Chipping Campden,

Gloucs.

c. 1450. A Wool Merchant, Lechdale, Gloucs. ; feet on
wool-pack.

145 1. John Younge, woolman. Chipping Norton,

Oxon. ; feet on two wool-packs. '
1454. Roger Felthorp, Blickling, Norfolk; his nine
sons similarly clad.

2o8

CIVILIAN COSTUME

1455. Richard Manfeld (with brother and sister),
TaploWj Bucks.

1458. John Fortey, woolman, Northleach, Gloucs. ;

right foot on sheep, left on wool-pack.

1459. Richard Quek, Birchington, Kent.

c. 1460. Sir Edward Courtenay, Christ Church, Oxford;

feet on dog ; boots like Pagge's ; anelace
hanging on left side, the scabbard containing
two small knives (bastardeau).
1467. John Lethenard, merchant, Chipping Campden,
Gloucs. ; wearing boots.

A period of transition may be remarked in some
effigies, e.g. : —

1470. John Wynter, St. Margaret's, Canterbury.
c. 1470. A Civilian, with sons, Abingdon Pigotts, Cambs.
c, 1480. Jenkyn Smith, St. Mary's, Bury St. Edmunds,
Suffolk.

The two former wear the fur-lined tunic, but with
sleeves of equal breadth; the collar of the under-dress
appearing at the neck. A trefoil is seen between the feet,
which are shod in pointed boots. The third is kneeling,
has no girdle to his tunic, which falls loosely round him,
and wears a collar Yorkist) with a pendant (?the white
lion of March). All three have the hair cut short, and
roll-shaped. Similar to the last, but with a girdle and
without a collar, is the kneeling effigy of a civilian, c. 1480,
Chrishall, Essex. Roger Kyngdon, c. 147 1, Quethiock,
Cornwall, wears the long civilian tunic, next described,
with a rosary at his belt ; but his hair is in the roll form.

In the last quarter of the century a distinct change is
visible. The hair is worn long. The tunic or gown
assumes a cassock-like appearance, and though open in
front, does not, as a rule, appear so on brasses. The
pointed shoes become modified, and are soon to be rounded
or square-toed, like the change from sollerets to sabbatom.

I

WILLIAM WALROND AND WIFE
ELIZABETH, c. 1480,
Childrey, Berks.

CIVILIAN COSTUME 209

noticed in our account of armour. The feet usually rest
on the ground, on which is often a conventional plant or
slipped trefoil. From the girdle hangs a gypciere, fre-
quently with a rosary, usually of twelve beads. To this
costume is sometimes added the hood, worn on the
shoulder, as a rule the right one. This hood is the de-
scendant of the chaperon^ which we have noticed in the
attire of fourteenth-century civilians. But it has passed
through a curious transition. It became the fashion in
the latter part of the fourteenth century to wear it hori-
zontally, that is, with the crown of the head inserted in
the opening, which formerly enclosed the face. The ends
were then tucked in turban-wise, and this coiffure was
called a bourrelet. We now see it in the form of a cap
with a long streamer or scarf, representing the liripipe of
the hood, the tippet part hanging on the back^ : — a shape
that was retained by the Knights of the Garter, as seen on
the Bullen brass at Hever (1538).

Examples are numerous.^ The following may easily be
supplemented : —

c. 1475. Notary, St. Mary Tower, Ipswich; hood on
left shoulder ; penner (or pen-case) and ink-
horn hanging to girdle on the right ; an in-
scribed roll on his breast ; a skull and bones
on the ground at the feet.
1475. ^ Civilian, Littlebury, Essex; hood on right
shoulder ; gypciere and rosary.

<:. 1 47 5 . A Civilian, Hempstead, Essex ; similar to the last.

1 %ee Planche, Cyclopaedia of Costume, sub mm. Hood, and the Rev.
N. F. Robinson's "Pileus Quadratus, etc," Transactions of St. Paul's
Ecclesiological Society, 1901, Vol. V., Part I. The bourrelet in many of its
forms may be seen in the Hardwicke Hall Tapestries. See "The
Fifteenth Century English Tapestries at Hardwicke Hall," by W. Harvey,
The Connoisseur, Vol. III., p. 39, '

2 Children in this costume are frequently found on the brasses of their
parents. Two Essex examples are: c. 1495, the four sons of Edward
Sulyard, Esq., High Laver, and' 1 501, the five sons of Sir William Pyrton
Little Bentley. ' '

P

lo CIVILIAN COSTUME

1479. Thomas Selby, East Mailing, Kent.
.1480. A Civilian, British Museum; hood on left
shoulder ; gypciere and rosary.

1483. Geoffrey Kidwelly, Esq., Little Wittenham,

Berks ; hood on left shoulder ; gypciere and
rosary.

1484. William Gybbys, Chipping Campden, Gloucs. ;

rosary on right.

1485. William Goldwell, Great Chart, Kent.
. 1485. Thomas Kyllygrewe, St. Gluvias, Cornwall;

wearing hood on right shoulder, remarkable
in that the cap assumes a hat-like appearance,
and the scarf or liripipe seems to be attached
to it by two bands.
1488. William Mond and John Sayer, Newington,
Kent ; the former wearing a cap on the right
shoulder, and a gypciere ; round shoes.
1488. John Hertcombe, kneeling, Kingston-upon-
Thames, Surrey; head lost; gypciere and
rosary on right ; round shoes.
1493. John Ceysyll, Tormarton, Gloucs.; gypciere
and rosary.

1496. John Beriffe, Brightlingsea, Essex; gypciere
and rosary.

1497. John Camber, Sevenhampton, Gloucs.; hood
on right shoulder ; gypciere and rosary.

1497. William Maynwaryng, Ightfield, Salop; head
gone; rosary, gypciere, and anelace with
bastardeau^

In the last decade of the fifteenth century the fur-lined
robe resembles a dressing-gown in shape, turned back down
the front to show the fur, and with broad fur collar and
cuffs. This robe either hangs loose, or is confined by a

X Another late instance of a knife worn by a civilian '^^ f^^^f^jj^l
brass of Henry Jarmon, 1480, Geddington, Northants, who wears a
small knife and rosary hanging from his girdle.

GEOFFREY KIDWELLY, ESQ.,
'483,

Little Wittenham, Berks.

CIVILIAN COSTUME

211

girdle to which a gypci^re and rosary are found attached.
In the former case, the gypci^re is sometimes seen fastened
to the girdle of the under-tunic and worn beneath the
outer gown. The shoes are broad-toed, and become
clumsy and loose in appearance. This costume continued
to the middle of the sixteenth century, becoming gradu-
ally superseded by the gown with long, false sleeves about
to be described, and was worn by young as well as old,
frequently figuring on the effigies of boys on the brasses
of their parents. Examples are common : —

1498. John Rusche, All Hallows Barking, London.
1498. John Stokys, Seend, Wilts.
1500. John Sedley, Southfleet, Kent.
. ^. 1500. Richard Wakeherst, Esq. (1457), Ardingley,
Sussex.

1506. John Colman, Little Waldingfield, Suffolk.
1506. Robert Wymbyll, Notary, St. Mary Tower,

Ipswich ; pen-case and ink-bottle on the left.
1 5 10. John, son of Sir John Seymour, Great Bedwyn

Wilts. ^ '

1 5 1 o. Ralf Rowlat, Merchant of the Staple, St. Alban's,
Herts.

^.1510. A Notary, New College, Oxford ; pen- case and
ink-bottle on right.

1 5 1 7. Thomas Goddard, Ogbourne St. George, Wilts ;
gypciere worn beneath gown.
c. 1520. A Civilian, St. Breock, Cornwall.

1526. William Freme, Berkeley, Gloucs. ; head lost
His gown has a fur cape. He holds a heart
inscribed " m'cy."

1529. William Bloor, Gent., Rainham, Kent. The
under-tunic is seen reaching to the knees with
embroidery at the neck and edge of the skirt
The gypciere is beneath the furred gown • the
broad shoes are tied with bows. In the in-
scription Henry VIII. is described as « Fidei
derensoris."

212

CIVILIAN COSTUME

iCTC. Andrew Evyngar, All Hallows, Barking,
London; Flemish. The long under-tunic
is well shown.

1564. Pawle Yden, Gent., Penshurst, Kent.

About the year 1 520 a change in the form of the gown
is seen. It is without girdle, open down the front i he
arms, instead of passing through the whole ength of the
sleeves, are carried through openings below the shoulders,
producing the effect of long, false sleeves, hangnig as
pendants.^ This fashion is no novelty, but is not tound
on brasses before this time. The lost effigy, however, of
Christopher Elcok, draper, 1492, formerly at bt. Mary
Magdalene's, Burgate, Canterbury, showed the arms pass-
ing through short, false sleeves attached to the cassock-
like tunic (described p. 208), to the girdle of which a
rosary and gypcifere were fastened. Instances occur of the
slit in the sleeve appearing, although the arm passes
through the whole length of it {e.g., c 1520 a Civilian
Brown Candover, Hants ; c. 1520, a Civihan (mutilated),
Euston, Suffolk; 1 521, William Cheswryght, Fordham,
cLbs • 1^24, John Terry, and 1525, John Marsham,
St. John Maddermarket, Norwich). Beneath the gown
are worn the square-skirted doublet, usually girded, the
sleeves of which come through the openings in the gown-
sleeves, and long hose. On the feet are low, broad shoes.
The hair is worl long, but the face remains clean-shaven.
The rosary disappears in the religious disturbances.
The following are some examples :—
ir2C. Thomas Pownder, St. Mary Quay, Ipswich,

Suffolk; Flemish.
I r . I . Thomas Potter, Westerham Kent.
I C.2. Robert Goodwyn, Necton, Norfolk.
I r^^. Henry Hatch, Faversham, Kent.
1535. Richard Sawnders, Pottesgrove, Beds.

-7^:^-^;;;^^ the clergy. Sec above, pp. 1 1 5"

117.

CIVILIAN COSTUME

213

1542. Thomas Fromond, Esq., Cheam, Surrey; kneel-
ing.

1542. Sir Thomas Nevell, Kt., Mereworth, Kent; a
cross hanging by a long chain round the neck ;
kneeling.

1546. Robert Barfott, Lambourne, Essex.

^55^' John Selyard, Edenbridge, Kent ; small gypciere
fastened to girdle of doublet.

1558. Edward Crane, Stratford St. Mary, Suffolk.

1 5 6 1 . Robert Swift, kneeling, Rotherham, Yorks. (rect-
angular plate).
c. 1565. A CiviHan, Southminster, Essex.

In civil as in military costume the reign of Queen
Elizabeth introduced some alterations. The hair was
worn short, and moustaches and pointed beards became
the fashion. The square-cut doublet became shorter,
though longer in the waist, and was buttoned down the
front, fitting the body tightly, and having a short, pointed
skirt below a waistband or sash. Over the long hose
were worn trunk hose, stuffed or " bombasted like beer-
barrels," which in their turn gave way to stuffed breeches,
the hose becoming two articles of dress : — the " upper
stocks " or breeches, and the " nether stocks " (our stock-
ings), the garters for which, usually tied in bows, are
visible on some brasses. The long gown with false sleeves
became modified in some particulars, the false sleeve be-
coming a mere strip, often elaborately slashed or striped,
hanging from behind the shoulder. This gown, fre-
quently without fur-edging or lining, continued in use
.during the seventeenth century, but seems to have been
worn more by " reverend signors " than by their children ;
the latter and the younger gallants generally seeming to
have preferred a short, open cloak, often of rich materials,
which we find worn towards the end of the sixteenth and
throughout the seventeenth century. The shoes lost their
clumsy appearance, and were small and round-toed, a
feature noticed in the military brasses of the period.

214 CIVILIAN COSTUME

Ruffs and frills were worn at the neck and wrists. This
costume, with but slight alteration, lasted to the end of
James I.'s reign. The effigies are often represented
standing on a chequered pavement. Examples are ex-
ceedingly numerous.

Examples in the long gown : —
1567. Thomas Noke, Esq., Shottesbrooke, Berks.;

crown-keeper's badge on the left shoulder.'
1570. John Webbe, St. Thomas', Salisbury, Wilts.
1 574. Richard Payton, Isleham, Cambs.
I C76. Edward Bell, Writtle, Essex.
1586. Edward Arundell, Mawgan in Pyder, Cornwall.
I C87. Michael Fraunces, St. Martin's, Canterbury.

1590. Laurence Hyde, Esq., Tisbury, Wilts.; rect-

angular plate. , ^ „ n

1 59 1. Robert Whalley, Gent., Queens College, Cam-

bridge. ^ ,

1592. Roger James, All Hallows Barking, London.
1600. Richard Thornhill, Bromley, Kent.

1 607. Jacob Verzelini, Esq., Downe, Kent.

1 6 1 c. James Hobart, Esq., Loddon, Norfolk.

1 6 1 6. John Darley, Gent., Rawmarch, Yorks. ; kneehng.

The short cloak, under which a rapier was frequently
worn on the left side, obviously gives a better opportumty
than the gown for seeing the doublet and breaches o
trunk hose, often slashed or embroidered^ ^^I'^VtW
are well depicted worn by sons on the brasses of their
parents. Good examples, though they wear a kind ot

Quethlock, Cornwall; a brass belonging ^%^^^\f°^2°,eV of brasses
1480 ; and 1 5 19, J'^^^^s ^ornj, Skpton Budcs^^ Crown on their
of Yeomen of the Guard, with the badge of ^he Ko^^ ana^
breasts are known,.,., Wimam ^^^f/o^^f^.t E^^^^ Kent,
Rampston (with sword), l5»5.^ost trom f,. j g ving

.S,.": Aston, Herts.; Thomas Mount,gue ho d.n|^^ ^J^^i
bread to two poor men, 1630, Wmktield, cerKs.

tion, p. cxxvu.

WILLIAM STRACHLEIGH, ESQ., WITH WIFE ANNE AND
DAUGHTER CHRISTIAN, ,583,
Ermington, Devon.

.H.J

CIVILIAN COSTUME

215

long open gown, are afforded by the two boys on the
brass of Lady Norton, 1580, Newington, Kent; and
without cloak or gown, by Henry Baynton, Esq., kneeling,
on the brass of his father, Sir Edward Baynton, Kt., 1578,
Bromham, Wilts.

The following are some examples in short cloaks : —

1582. Edward Bugge, Gent., Harlow, Essex.

1584. Edward Wiot, Esq., Tillingham, Essex ; kneeling.

1585/6. Humphrey and Humphrey Heies, West Thur-

rock, Essex ; the son a good example.
1587. George Clifton, Esq., Clifton, Notts.
1592. John Lyon, Harrow, Middlesex, founder of the

school.

1594. George Duke, Gent., Honington, Suffolk.

1606. Effigy in private possession, probably Arthur

Crafford, Gent., from South Weald, Essex ; the

cloak has an embroidered border.

1609. Thomas Garland, Todwick, Yorks. ; kneeling.

1 610. John Cremer, Snettesham, Norfolk, and sons.
1 615. John Gladwin, Harlow, Essex.

The mutilated effigy (lacking head and legs) of William
Hyldesley, 1576, at Crowmarsh Giffard, Oxon., shows a
short cloak with false sleeves, worn over a doublet, to the
girdle of which hangs a large gypciere on the right side.
Trunk hose were worn.

The reign of Charles I. introduced collar and cuffs in
preference to ruffs. The doublet sometimes ends below
the waist in two peaks, not joining. The knee-breeches
are rnuch reduced in size; the hair is worn long; the
large jack-boot appears ; rapiers are worn below the short
cloaks.

Examples in long gowns with false sleeves : —
1624. Richard Gadburye, Eyworth, Beds.; wearing a
broad-brimmed hat ; the gown curiously braided
and with many loops and buttons.

2l6

CIVILIAN COSTUME

1626. John Gunter, Cirencester, Gloucs.

1630. John Kent, Esq., St. John's, Devizes, Wilts.

1 63 1. Robert Coulthirst, Kirkleatham, Yorks. ; book in

right hand, stick in left.
1636. Henry Gibbes, St. James', Bristol; kneeling.

1638. William Jones, Gent., St. Mary's, Dover, Kent.

1639. Thomas Covell, Esq., St. Mary's, Lancaster.

1 647. John Morewood, Bradfield, W. Yorks. ; kneeling ;
skull-cap ; rectangular plate.

Examples in short cloaks : —
c. 1630. A Civilian, Croydon, Surrey.

1 63 1 . Richard Chiverton, Quethiock, Cornwall ; locally

engraved.

1632. William Gardiner, Daylesford, Worcs. ; right

hand holding book ; jack-boots and spurs.
1634. John King, Gent., Southminster, Essex.
c. 1 635. The sons on the brass of Sir John Arundel, Knt.,
St. Columb Major, Cornwall; jack-boots.
(The sons of John Arundel, Esq., 1633, at
the same place, are similarly attired.)

1638. The sons on the brass of Sir Edward Filmer,

Kt., East Sutton, Kent, except the eldest.
The short cloaks have sleeves, but the arms
are not inserted in them ; all but the youngest
wear jack-boots ; the latter has rosettes at his
knees.

1 639. Robert Alfounder, East Bergholt, Suffolk ; jack-

boots and spurs. The breeches terminate
at the knees in nebule-shaped cannons.

1 64 1. William Randolph, Biddenden, Kent.

1642. William Septvans [alias Harflet), Esq., Ash-

next-Sandwich, Kent ; the cloak longer than
usual.

A curious local engraving at Heigham, Norfolk, repre-
sents a cavalier, " Thomas Holl, second son of Thomas
Holl, Esq.," 1630. His hair has a periwig-like appear-
ance. His collar is trimmed with lace. The sword sash

CO

w

,1

CIVILIAN COSTUME 217

passes over the right shoulder, from which a scarf hangs.
He wears jack-boots.

Eighteenth-century civilian costume is represented on
the brass of Benjamin Greenwood, 1773, St. Mary Cray,
Kent, who wears a large coat, the cuffs of which are turned
back, a long waistcoat, knee-breeches, stockings, shoes,
and a wig.

The graceful mantle (doubtless descended from the
classical chlamys) fastened by buttons on the right shoulder,
which we have remarked worn in the fourteenth century,
continued in use, as an insigne of civic dignitaries, mayors,
and aldermen, worn over the gown of the period, long
after it had gone out of fashion. Such a qualification is,
probably, the cause of its appearance on most of the
following effigies. Haines remarks (pp. ccxl.-i.) that the
dress of mayors and aldermen of the sixteenth century
" consisted of a red gown, a black or brown mantle, and
a short black scarf, which last appears in some instances
"to have been worn by mayors only."^ Some examples,
a large proportion of which are in Norwich, are as
follows : —

1432. Robert Baxter, St. Giles', Norwich.

1433. Simon Seman, Barton-on-Humber, Lines.
1436. Richard Purdaunce, St. Giles', Norwich.
1436. John Asger, St. Laurence, Norwich.

c. 1450. John Arderne, Esq., Leigh, Surrey.
c. 1460. John Browne, All Saints', Stamford, Lines.
c. 1460. William Browne {d. 1489), All Saints', Stamford,
Lines.

1472. William Norwiche, St. George Colegate, Nor-
wich.

^ See footnote 2, p. 109. The brass of Edward Goodman, Burgesse and
Mercer of Ruthin, 1560, Ruthin, Denbighshire, shows him wearing over
a long doublet a fur-lined gown with false sleeves, a cap, and a short scarf.
Reproduced in J Memoir of Galriel Goodman, D.D., Demi of Westminster,
etc., by the Rev. Richard Newcome. Ruthin, 1825.

2l8

CIVILIAN COSTUME

c. 14.J2. Ralph Segrym (?), St. John Maddermarket,
Norwich.

1474. John Feld, Standon, Herts.

1475. John Brown, junr., All Sahits', Stamford, Lines.

1477. John Croke, All Hallows Barking, London.

1478. Thomas Rowley, St. John, Bristol.
1487. John Lambarde, Hinxworth, Herts.

1496. Henry Spelman, " Hospes " and Recorder of
Norwich, Narburgh, Norfolk.
c. 1 500. Robert Gardiner (?), St. Andrew, Norwich.

1 5 13. Richard Brasyer and son, St. Stephen, Norwich.
c. 1 5 13. Robert Brasyer, St. Stephen, Norwich.

1524. John Terry, St. John Maddermarket, Norwich.

1525. John Marsham, St. John Maddermarket, Nor-

wich.

1529. John Cooke, St. Mary de Crypt, Gloucester.

1539. Nicholas Leveson, St. Andrew Undershaft,

London.

1540. John Semys, St. John Baptist, Gloucester.
1558. Robert Rugge, St. John Maddermarket, Nor-
wich.

1573. Sir William Harper, in armour, St. Paul's,
Bedford.

1 5 74. Richard Atkinson, St. Peter-ih-the-East, Oxford.

From this design was copied : —
1826. William Fletcher, Yarnton, Oxon. (Mayor of

Oxford, Antiquary).

CHAPTER V.

0f f e^al O^trgfum^

CHAPTER V.

OF LEGAL COSTUME ON BRASSES

For centuries les gens de role have retained a costume
appropriate to their respective functions. On the origin
of this costume, as to whether or not it illustrates the
quasi-sacerdotium'' of Judges and their ecclesiastical origin,
we do not propose to enlarge. It is a subject involved
in much uncertainty. That ecclesiastics often exercised
judicial functions there can be no doubt ; but that they
did so by virtue of their Orders is by no means proved.
At any rate, by the time when we find the costume of a
judge engraved on a brass, the law had renounced any
allegiance which it may ever have owed to the Church.
Largely from Mr. Serjeant PuUing's work, The Order of the
Coif^ surveying the position of the Serjeants-at-law from
early times to the present day, the following notes have
been drawn, for the purpose of illustrating the costume
which we find on brasses.

It would appear that the following classes existed in the
legal profession : —

Attornati et apprenticii ad legem {apprentices de la ley), who
" came to form two very distinct classes, the class of ap-
" prenticii ad legem coming first, and gradually embracing
not only the learners, but the learned, the sages gentz,
"the counsellors, the apprenticii ad Barros^ who consti-
"tuted with the older order of the Serjeants, the Bar,
" whilst the Attornati came to occupy a prominent place
" for many ages subordinate to the Bar and governed by
" no system of regulation, except those which from time

I The Order of the Coif, by AlexanderPulIing, Serjeant-at-law. London :
William Clowes & Sons, Limited, 27 Fleet Street, 1897. A letter by
George Bowyer on the history of the degree of Serjeant-at-law will be
found in Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, ist Series, Vol. I , p 178
(February 25th, 1847).

222

LEGAL COSTUME

" to time special statutes, or the reguU generates of the
"Judges, prescribed."^

From the ranks of the Apprenticii ad Barros (or Utter
Barristers, corresponding to the modern Barrister) were
chosen the Servientes ad legem^ or Serjeants-at-law ; and
from the King's Serjeants (Servientes Regis ad legem) were
chosen the Judges of the one bench and the other (King's
Bench and Common Pleas), and the Chief Baron of the
Exchequer, who, with the Serjeants, constituted the Order
of the Coif.^

The Serjeants-at-law (Serjeant Counters, Serjeants of
the Coif) formed a far more exclusive and privileged class
than the King's Counsel, who, in modern times, have to
so large an extent usurped their position. Their per-
manent rank placed them immediately after Knights
Bachelor, and they may be compared in degree to the
Doctors in the higher faculties. Under the old system
"at Westminster Hall," writes Mr. Serjeant Pulling,
" . . . the Serjeants-at-law not only had the precedence
"and preaudience, but constituted the whole Common
"Pleas Bar," 3 in which court they had the right of ex-
clusive audience.

The Coif'* {tena^^ hirettum alburn)^ which gave its name
to the Order, being described by Fortescue as the " prin-
" cipal and chief insignment of habit wherewith Serjeants-
" at-law on their creation are decked," was a close-fitting
kind of skull-cap, tied beneath the chin, made of white

1 The Order of the Coif, p. 112.

2 " Sir E Coke describes the ordinary gradation of members as first,
<^Moomen or Students" [sometimes called Gentlemen under the Bar or
"Inner Barristers, constituting legal undergraduates] ; "secondly, Utter
" Barristers" [who had/^W the Bar or graduated] ; "thirdly, Ancients ;
" fourthly, Readers and Double Readers ; and fifthly, Serjeants-at-law,
<' the King's Serjeants and the Judges." — The same, p. 171.

3 The same, p. 210.

4 Called "houve" by Langeland, Vision of Piers Ploughman, c. 1 369.

5 Doubtless so called from the strings, tena or infula, which tied it
beneath the chin, the ends of which may be the origin of bands.

LEGAL COSTUME

223

lawn or silk, frequently with a band down the centre.
The origin of this coiffure is lost in obscurity, such ex-
planations as that it was worn to conceal the tonsure, or
the latter's absence, whether right or wrong being incapable
of proof. We must be content with an admission of
ignorance as to its original significance, and with a state-
ment that it constituted as much a part of the insignia of
the Serjeant-at-law, as the pointed pileus formed a part
of those of the Doctor in Theology {see p. 125).

Over this coif the judges sometimes wore a skull-cap of
black silk or velvet, the remains of which, as of the coif,
were to be seen in the small circular white patch with
black centre shown on the top of the Serjeant's long wig.
This black skull-cap is quite distinct from the judge's black,
square, or corner cap, known as the sentence cap, worn,
according to Mr. Serjeant Pulling's supposition, to veil
the coif, but, possibly, merely as a symbol of dignity and
authority ; for it was ordered to be worn in church, when
on circuit.^

Chief Justice Fortescue states^ that "a Serjeant-at-law

^ See the " Solemn Decree and Rule made by all the Judges of the
Courts at Westminster bearing date the fourth day of June, An. 1635,"
in Dugdale's Origines Jurtdlcales; also "English Academical Costume
(Mediaeval)," by Professor E. C. Clark, LL.D., F.S.A., Archaological
JournakVoX. L., 1893, pp. 142-3 ; and the "Pileus Quadratus, etc," by the
Rev. N. F. Robinson, 5/. Paul's Ecclesiologkal Society's Transactions, Vol. V.,
Part I., 1 90 1. At Weekley, Northants, the monument of Sir Edward
Montagu {d. 1556) shows him in judge's robes, and wearing over the
coif a pileus quadratus ; engraved in Sepulchral Memorials, cotuisting of
engravings from the Altar Tombs, Effigies, and Monuments, ancient and modern,
contained within the County of Northampton, from the pen-drawings of
W H. Hyett. London: Nicholls, 1817. At Wroxeter, Salop, the
alabaster effigy of Sir Thomas Bromley (S.L. 1 540, C.J. of King's Bench,
^. 1555) shows scarlet gown lined with light green, a red mantle, and a
black square cap. (See Transactions of Shropshire Jrchceological and Natural
History Society, 2nd series, Vol. I., 1889, p. 15.)

2 De Laudibus Legum Anglic, C. li. : " Roba longa ad instar sacerdotis
<n T^if ^^^^^ humeros ejus et desuper collobio cum duobus
" labcllulis quahter uti solent doctores legum in universitatibus quibusdam
" cum supra descripto birreto vestiebatur."

224 LEGAL COSTUME

*' is clothed in a long robe not unlike the sacerdotal
" habit, with a furred cape, about his shoulders, and a hood
'* over it, with two lapels or tippets such as the Doctors
" of Law use in some universities, with a coif as is above
" described."

This bears much similarity to academical costume, there
being a striking resemblance in the dress of Thomas Rolf,
S.L., 1440, legi pfessus " at Gosfield, Essex, who appears
to wear a tabard over his " long robe," to that ot the
Master of Arts, described p. 135. Indeed, it is well-nigh
identical but for coif and bands.' {See Professor Clark,
Vol. L., Archaologkal Journal, pp. 203-4.)

The " long robe " is best described as being " cassock-
like," worn without girdle. Over this is seen a fur cape
or tippet," lined and edged with lambs' wool (budge), and
a hood. On the colour of these garments much Hght is
thrown by four illuminations from a MS. {temp Henry VL)
described and illustrated in the Archaologia^ Vol. XXXIX.,
1863.3 Here the Serjeants are seen standing by their
clients, and wearing parti-coloured robes (Chaucer's
<' medlee cote ") of blue and green, rayed or striped, as

1 At the Exhibition of English Embroidery executed prior to the
middle of the Sixteenth Century, held at the Burhngton Fine Arts Club,
IQ05, were shown two copes, f. 1500 (Case R., Nos. 2 and 4). 1^"^.
Oscott College, Birmingham, on the orphreys of which figures, holding
rolls in the left hand, appear in robes, possibly those of a serjeant :-a
long robe (roba talaris) ; over it a shorter gown with surplice-like sleeves
{taberdtm)oi?. colour lighter than that of the long robe; a green hood
and white coif.

2 Langeland's " pelease."

3 " Observations on four Illuminations representing the Courts of
Chancery King's Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer at Westminster,
from a MS of fhe time of King Henry VI., in a letter from G. R. Corner,
Esq , F.S.A., to Frederic Ouvry, Esq., Treasurer." Read December 6th,
i860 pp 7-3 7 2, Vol. XXXIX., ^rfWo^^, 1863.

A°'Faversham, Kent, was found, in 1851, a fourteenth-century wall-
paindnroftTneeling'figure (P Robert D°d) wearing red cassock-l^e
robe, tippet, and hood (apparently combined , and white coif.
" Fa;ersham Church, Kent," by Thomas Willement, Esq., F.S.A.,
pp. i5o-i53» Archaolo^a Cantiatia, Vol. I., 185b.

LEGAL COSTUME

225

though they had accepted some patron's livery in accord-
ance with the practice of the age. Sir William Dugdale,
in his Origines Juridicales, says: "The robes they now
" use do still somewhat resemble those of the justices of
"either bench, and are of three distinct colours, viz.,
" murrey, black furred with white, and scarlet ; but^ the
" robe which they usually wear at their creation only is of
" two colours, viz., murrey and mouse-colour ; whereunto
" they have a hood suitable, as also a Coif of white silk or
"linen."'

Unfortunately the few brasses, which we possess, of
Serjeants-at-law, give no indication of colour.

The illuminations, just mentioned, amply illustrate the
scarlet colour of the robes of the Judges. Li form these
are the same as those of the Serjeants, as members of the
same Order : — a long robe (supertunic or surcoat) with or
without girdle, cape, hood, and coif, with the exception
that the hood is worn over a mantle fastened on the right
shoulder, in the manner prevalent in the fourteenth cen-
tury. "After he [the Serjeant] is made a Judge, instead
" of the Hood he shall be habited with a cloak fastened
" upon his right shoulder. He still retains the other
" ornaments of a Serjeant, with the exception that a Judge
" shall not use a parti-coloured habit, as the Serjeants do ;

^ " In the Liber Famelkus of Sir James Whitelocke, edited by John
"Bruce, Esq., F.S.A., and published by the Camden Society, 1858, he.
" relates that on the occasion of his being created a Serjeant, June 29th,
" 1620, after taking his leave of the Society of the Middle Temple, they
" attended him to Serjeants' Inn in Fleet Street ; where, his party-coloured
" robe being put upon him in his chamber, he was conducted into the
" hall by the tipstaves, his scarlet hood and his coif laid upon it being
" carried before him by his man. And, after recording the expenses of his
"creation and robes, he adds: 'Memorandum: I made no black robe,
" nor purple, because I was not to need them, but only a party-coloured
" and a scarlet ; the party-coloured, a robe, a hood, and tabard ; the
" scarlet, a robe and hood,' He says further : *I rode circuit in summer,
" 1620, Serjeant-at-law, and practised in my party-coloured robe on
"Sundays and holidays, both in the circuit and in the term.'" — "Obser-
vations on Four Illuminations, etc" Jrchieolo^ayWoX. XXXIX., 1863,
p. 37°-

Q

226

LEGAL COSTUME

" and his cape is furred with minever, whereas the Serjeant's
" cape is always furred with lambs' wool." '

From this we see that more costly fur, minever, was
used,^ and that the robes were not to be parti-coloured.

The Barons of the Exchequer {Scaccarium), except the
Chief, and the Masters in Chancery, were not, necessarily,
of the Coif, and, accordingly, were of lower rank. The
illuminations cited show four Barons,^ each either wearing
or holding a curious high cap (or chaperon), not unlike
that worn by John Edward, 1461, Rodmarton, Gloucs.
{see below). The four Masters in Chancery are tonsured.
In each case these robes are of mustard colour, in the case
of the Exchequer of the same shape as the Judge's ; but
the centre figures are in scarlet.

The following are the brasses of Judges remaining : —

1400. Sir John Cassy, Kt., Deerhurst, Gloucs., Chief
Baron of the Exchequer ; wife on dexter side ;
mantle lined with vair ; cape does not appear ;
the sleeves of the under-tunic end in buttoned
mittens ; feet rest on lion, facing sinister.

' Fortescue, De Laudibus, C. li., quoted by Serjeant Pulling, p. 223-4.
See also Stow's Survey : " And now, in some Things, his former Habit
" of a Serjeant is altered. His long Robe and Cap, his Hood and Coif
"are the same. But there is besides a Cloak put over him, which is
" closed on his right shoulder ; and his Caputium is lined with Minez'er,
" that is, divers small Pieces of white rich Furr. But the Two Lord
" Chief-Justices, and the Lord Chief Baron, have their Hoods, Sleeves
"and Collars, turned up with Ermine." Ed. 1720, Book L, p. 122.

*The Orders of 1635 prescribe as follows: — "The facing of their
" Gowns, Hoods, and Mantles, is with Changable TafFata ; which they
" must begin to wear upon Ascension Day, being the last Thursday in
" Easter Term ; and continue those Robes until the Feast of Simon and
" Jude : And upon Simon and Jude's day the Judges begin to wear their
" Robes faced with white furs of Minever ; and so continue that facing
"till Ascension Day again." See Pulling, p. 225.

3 " Mr. Corner suggests that they are the other Barons of the Exchequer ;
" but I doubt it, as the robes issued to them appear to have been always
"similar in colour to those of the chief." — Planch6, Cychpadia of Costume^
1876, sub Robe.

SIR WILLIAM LAK.EN,
Brav, Berks.

LEGAL COSTUME

227

141 5. Sir Hugh de Holes, Kt., Watford, Herts.,
Justice of the King's Bench; feet gone.
(Placed on the wall in 1 8 7 1 .)

141 9. Wilham Lodyngton, Gunby, Lines., Justice of

the Common Pleas to Henry V., S.L. 14 10;
wearing anelace ; ' feet on leopard.

1 420. Richard Norton, Wath, N. Yorks., Chief Justice

of the King's Bench, S.L. 1406 ; much worn ;
feet on lion.

c. 1430. John Staverton (?), Eyke, Suffolk, Baron of the
Exchequer; head gone. Probably did not
wear the coif.

1436. John Martyn, Graveney, Kent, Justice of the
King's Bench, S.L. 141 5; holding heart in-
scribed, " Ihu mcy"; feet on lion.

1439. ^'^^ John Juyn, Kt., St. Mary RedclifFe, Bristol,
Chief Justice of the King's Bench, S.L. 1403 ;
feet rest on ground.

1439. John Cottesmore, Brightwell Baldwin, Oxon.,
Chief Justice ; mural, kneeling. Commemo-
rated by two brasses, one mural, the other on
the floor.

c. 1465. Nicholas Assheton, Callington, Cornwall, "one
of the Kynges Juges," " Secundarie " of the
Common Pleas ; feet on ground.

1467. Sir Peter Arderne, Kt., Latton, Essex," Chief
Baron of the Exchequer, Judge of the Common
Pleas, S.L. 1443 '■> tunic covering his feet.

1475. Sir William Laken, Kt., Bray, Berks., Justice of
the King's Bench, S.L. 1453 ; rosary and
anelace hanging from girdle.

^ An anelace and gypci^re are worn by Sir William Gascolgne, Chief
Justice of the King's Bench temp. Henry IV. (stone effigy), Harewood,
Yorks. The latter is seen on the alabaster effigy of Sir Richard Newton
(S.L. 1424), Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, c. 1448, at Yatton,
Somerset.

^See paper entitled, "Arderne's Chantry at Latton, Essex," by C. E.
Johnston, The Home Counties Magazine, Vol. IV„ 1902, pp. 222-5.

22 8 LEGAL COSTUME

1476. Sir Richard Bingham, Kt., Middleton, Warwick-
shire, Justice of the King's Bench, S.L. 1443 I
wearing fur-lined gown open in front, over
which is mantle ; feet on ground.

1479. Sir Thomas Urswyke, Kt., Dagenham, Essex,
Chief Baron of the Exchequer, 1472, formerly
Recorder of London ; became S.L. 1479,
which year he died. An early date of en-
graving may account for the absence of the
coif. Neither tippet nor hood show ; wearing
rosary ; feet on dog.

148 1. Sir Thomas BilHng, Kt., Wappenham, North-
ants, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas,
S.L. 1448. The slab was semee of scrolls,
Ihu mercy " and " lady helppe." Origin-
ally at Biddlesden, Bucks.

1494. Brian Rouclyff, Cowthorpe, W. Yorks., third
Baron of the Exchequer ; no coif. The
monument has been much injured.

1 5 13. Sir William Greville, Kt., Cheltenham, Gloucs.,
Justice of the Common Pleas, S.L. 1504;
worn.

1538. Sir Anthony Fitzherbert, Kt.,' Norbury, Derby-
shire, Justice of the Common Pleas, S.L.
1 5 10; much mutilated, head gone; casting
hood on right shoulder ; holding roll in right
hand.

1544/5. Sir Walter Luke, Kt., Cople, Beds., Justice of
the Common Pleas, S.L. 1531 ; mural in
stone frame ; kneeling ; scarlet mantle and
hood ; wearing gypciere. The traces of colour-
ing matter are visible.
1545. Thomas Holte, Esq., Aston, Warwickshire,
Justice of North Wales ; the head is lost, but

I For "The Will of the celebrated Judge, Sir Anthony Fitzherbert,"
by the Rev. R. H. C. Fitzherbert (proved 26th August, 1538), see TAe
Reliquary, Vol. XXI., 1 880-1, p. 234.

LEGAL COSTUME

229

probably no coif, as he was not a Serjeant ;

holding scroll in hands ; a gypciere attached

to girdle on right ; broad shoes.
1553. Henry Bradschawe, Esq., Halton, Bucks., Chief

Baron of the Exchequer; kneeling; head

bare; gypciere.
1553. William Coke, Esq., Milton, Carnbs., Justice of

the Common Pleas, " communi banco," S.L.

1 547 ; casting hood hanging on right shoulder;

gypciere.

1556. Sir John Spelman, Kt., Narburgh, Norfolk,
secundary justice of the King's Bench, S.L.
1521 ; kneeling at prayer-desk.

1563. Nycholas Luke, Esq., Cople, Beds., Baron of
the Exchequer ; no coif ; similar in design to
that of Sir Vv" alter Luke, above ; gypciere.

1567. Sir Anthony Browne, Kt., South Weald, Essex,
Chief Justice of Common Pleas, S.L. iSSS '■>
kneeling at prayer-desk ; only lower part of
effigy left.

1598. Hen. Bradshawe (ob. 1553), Noke, Oxon.,
Chief Baron of the Exchequer ; no mantle.

c. 1470. Sir William Yelverton, Kt., Rougham, Norfolk,
Justice of the King's Bench, S.L. 1440 ; wear-
ing armour, over which mantle, hood, and
collar of suns and roses ; on his head a coif.
1570. Sir Clement Heigham, Kt., Barrow, Suffolk,
Chief Baron of the Exchequer to Queen
Mary, S.L. 1555; kneeling; in armour.

At Writtle, Essex, are three shields, belonging to the
altar-tomb of Richard Weston, Justice of the Common
Pleas, 1572 (S.L. 1559).

At Sedgebrook, Lines., is the matrix of the brass of
John Markham, Lord Chief Justice iemp Edward IV.

The few brasses of Serjeants-at-law vary more in type
than those of the Judges : —

230

LEGAL COSTUME

1404. John Rede, Checkendon, Oxon., S.L. 1401,
" Serviens domini Regis ad legem," or King's
Serjeant ; wearing the cassock-like gown, from
beneath the sleeves of which appear the
buttoned mitten-sleeves of the under-tunic ;
hood and pointed shoes ; no coif nor girdle ;
the hair flowing ; feet on ground.

1410. Nichol Rolond, Cople, Beds., possibly S.L. ;

wearing robe with tight sleeves, tippet, hood,'
and coif. The wife occupies the dexter side.

1440. Thomas Rolf, Gosfield, Essex, S.L. 141 8, "legi
pfessus " ; wearing cassock-like gown, tabard
(as described p. 135), tippet, hood, bands, and
coif; ''inter iuristas quasi flos enituit." Some-
what similar to this, though without cape or
hood, is a recumbent stone effigy of the four-
teenth century at Pembridge, Herefordshire.^

1 5 1 9. Thomas Pygott, Whaddon, Bucks., S.L. 1 503.

1522. John Brook, St. Mary Redclifl^e, Bristol, Serjeant-
at-law to King Henry VIII., Justice of Assize
in the west parts of England,' Chief Steward

^ Engraved in Transactions of the Bristol and Gloucestershire Jrcka-ological
Society, Vol. XVIII., 1 893-4, illustrating a paper, "The Dress of Civilians
in the Middle Ages from Monumental Effigies," by Mrs. M. E. Bagnall-
Oakeley, pp. 252-270. On brass of Thomas Rolf, see Professor Clark's
"Mediaeval Academical Costume," Vol. L., Archaolo^cal Journal,
pp. 203-4. Sculptured effigies of Serjeants-at-law, of a later date, exist,
^.^.,1622, Edward Drew, Esq. (S.L. 1589), Broadclyst, Devon, "qui
Regins Elizab. serviens erat ad legem"; 1640, John Darcy, Serjeant-at-
law, died 1638/9, St. Osyth, Essex, above which is a mural brass inscrip-
tion in Roman capitals engraved by Fr. Grigs. In the Proceedings of Somerset
Archaeological and "Natural History Society, Vol. XXXVIII., 1 892, is a paper
by H. C. Maxwell Lyte, C.B., on the Lytes of Lytescary, with an illus-
tration from a pedigree compiled in 1631 by Thomas Lyte, of glass
formerly in Charlton Makerel Church, depicting William Lyte, Serjeant-
at-law, temp Edward I., kneeling in his robes.

^See Pulling, p. 4, note 3. "Assizes may be taken before any justices
of the one Bench or the other, or Serjeant le Roi jure, i.e., every Serjeant-
at-law.— 4 Edw. III., c. 16." He quotes, p. 4, Chaucer's :—
"Justice he was ful often in assise.
By patent, and by pleine commissiun."

JOHN BROOK, SERJEANT-AT-LAW, AND WIFE JOAN, i
St. Mary Rkdcuffe, Bristol.

C.B,]

LEGAL COSTUME

231

of Glastonbury Abbey ; wearing coif, tippet,
hood, and round-toed shoes, gown, and
tabard.

15—. John Newdegate, Harefield, Middlesex, S.L.

1 510 (wife died 1544); no cape; holding a
scroll.

1 68 1 . Edmund West, Marsworth, Bucks., S.L. 1679;

represented in armour and lying on his left
side, a book in right hand, a sword in left.

At Brampton, Norfolk, is an inscription for Guybon
Goddard, Serjeant-at-law, 1671, remarkable for its ending
"cujus animae propitietur deus " at so late a date.

At Great Bardfield, Essex, was formerly the effigy of
William Bendlowes, 1584 (S.L. 1555).

Barons of the Exchequer and Masters in Chancery are
occasionally mentioned on brasses : —

Barons of the Exchequer.

1 44 8 . Nicholas Dixon, rector, Cheshunt, Herts. , " pipe
subthesaurarius," Baron of the Exchequer;
in cope.

1460. Inscription, Outwell, Norfolk, to Margaret,
wife of Gilbert Haultoft, one of the Barons of
the Exchequer to King Henry VL
c. 1520. Inscription, Attlebridge, Norfolk, William, son
and heir of William Elys, Baron of the Ex-
chequer.

Masters in Chancery.

1 56 1. John Eyer,Esq.,Narburgh, Norfolk ; in armour ;
mural.

1565. Sir John Tregonwell, D.C.L, and a Master of
the Chauncerye, Milton Abbas, Dorset; in
heraldic tabard.

1586. Nicholas West, Marsworth, Bucks. ; in armour.

232 LEGAL COSTUME

Barristers are represented by a few brasses. The terms
in lege peritus and Apprenticius ad legem or ad leges are occa-
sionally found, and probably denote this degree ' : —

1437. Robert Skerii, Kingston-upon-Thames, Surrey,

" lege peritus " ; in civilian tunic.
1461. John Edward, Rodmarton, Gloucs., " ffamosus
apprenticius in lege peritus " ; wearing the
civilian tunic of the period, but on his head
a curious high cap of velvet or some soft
material with an edging of fur."^
c. 1460. An Effigy, St. Peter's, Chester, wearing a high-
crowned cap with vandyked base, and the
civilian bag-sleeved gown, without girdle.
The inscription is lost, but the similarity to
the last-mentioned brass may justify its in-
clusion in this class.
1472. Robert Ingylton, Esq., Thornton, Bucks.,
in armour ; Chancellor of the Exchequer.
Browne Willis gives a lost inscription, "qui
quondam erat juris peritus, et totius virtutis

amicus."

1 50 1. Robert Baynard, Esq., Laycock, Wilts., "vir
egregius et legis peritus, etc." ; in armour
with heraldic tabard.

1507. William Eyre, Esq., Great Cressingham, Nor-
folk, "juris peritus" ; in civilian gown.

15 14. Robert Southwell, Esq., Barham, Suffolk,

the Calendar of the Freemen of Nortvich from 1317 to 1603
(Edward II. to Elizabeth inclusive), by John L'Estrange, and edited by
Walter Rye (London : Elliot Stock, 1882), occur the names of Edmund
Grey, Esq., Juris Peritus, and Nicholas Hare, Esq., Legis Peritus, each
admitted 28 Hen. VIIL

At Preston Bagot, Warwickshire, is the brass of Elizabeth, wife of
Wm. Randoll, legis consiliarius," 1637,

- "In the church of Norton St. Philip, Somersetshire, is a stone effigy
surmounted by a similar cap." — p. 61, The Monumental Brasses of
•Gloucestershire^ by Cecil T. Davis, 1899.

LEGAL COSTUME

233

" apprenticius ad leges": wearing civilian
fur-lined gown.
1574. Richard Payton, Isleham, Cambs., "In Greys
Inne student of the lawe, wheare he a Reader
was " ; in false-sleeved gown ; holding a book
in right hand.

1585. Francis Saunders, Welford, Northants, "legum
Anglie apprenticius " ; in armour.

1596. Robert Trencreeke, St. Erme, Cornwall,
couseler at lawe " ; kneeling in false-sleeved
gown.

1 62 1. Thomas Palmer, Epping, Essex, "A Professor
of that illustrious and flourishing Scyence of
ye common Lawe, and an utter Barrester
of that Right Worshipfull Socyetie of Lin-
colnes Inne " ; in false-sleeved gown and
ruff.

1668. Robert Shiers, Great Bookham, Surrey, "of the
Inner Temple, London, Esq." ; called to the
Bar 1641, Bencher 1660, Lecturer 1667; in
civilian costume ; holding open book in right
hand.

Inscriptions.

1 531. Robert Fulwode, Tam worth, Warwickshire,
"JExcellentissie doctrinat' siue litterat' in
coie lege Anglie."

1585. Nicholas Pury, Esq., Sanderstead, Surrey (a
palimpsest reverse of the brass of Nicholas
Wood, 1586, and probably a spoilt plate),
" Templi que medii socius erat."

1 604. John Clarke, Bennington, Herts., " Councill at
lawe."

1613. James Mott (?), Mattishall, Norfolk, four

English verses, " He professed the lawe."

1 614. Andrew Gray, Esq., Hinxworth, Herts., "double

reader of ye Lawe in ye Inner Temple in
London."

234

LEGAL COSTUME

Students.

1483. Wm, Crofton, Gent., B.C.L. of Grey's Inn,

Trotterscliffe, Kent ; civilian gown.
158 1. William Saxaye, Stanstead Abbotts, Herts.,

"late of Grais In gentlema," aged 23.
1596. Inscription, William Bramfeilde, Gent., Wal-

kern, Herts., " sumtym student of Grayes

Inn."

1 612. Arthur Strode, St. Aldate's, Oxford, of Broad-
gates Hall, "in medio templo Londinensis
legum studiosi," aged 23 ; wearing gown with
false sleeves.

The following are some brasses of other legal function-
aries and officials : —

1470. Hen. Unton, Sculthorpe, Norfolk, " Gentilman

Cirographorius " (engrosser) of the Court of

Common Pleas; in armour, kneeling; restored.
c. 1470. Inscription to John Colard, Hailing, Kent, for

thirty-seven years one of the King's Clerks of

the Exchequer.
1492. Bartholomew Willesden, Willesdon, Middlesex,

" comptroller of the great roll of the Pipe " ;

inscription lost ; cap with pendent scarf on

shoulder.

1 5 12. John Muscote, Gent., Earls Barton, Northants,
a prothonotary of the Court of Common
Pleas.

c. 1520. John Sedley, Southfleet, Kent, '*an auditor ot
the King's Exchequer."

1552. Mr. Wm. Fermoure, Esq., Somerton, Oxon.,
" Clarke of the Crowne in the Kyng' Benche."

1586. Henry Dynne, Esq., Heydon, Norfolk, "an
auditor of the Court of Exchequer."

1588. William Tooke, Esq., Essendon, Herts., kneel-
ing ; Auditor of the Courte of Wardes and
Liveries.

LEGAL COSTUME

235

1590. William Death, Gent., Dartford, Kent, "once
Prynsipall of Staple Inne, and one of the
Attorneys of the Comon Pleas at Wes-
minster " ; gown with false sleeves.

i6i2.(?) Richard Symonds, Esq., Great Yeldham,
Essex, a Cursitor in Chancery; kneeling;
gown with false sleeves.

1 630. Inscription to Richard Fittz, Letheringsett, Nor-
folk, " one of the Cursitors of the Court of
Chancery."

Besides the Notaries mentioned on pp. 209, 211, we
have the following:: —

1499. William Curteys, Necton, Norfolk, " notarius,"

with pen-case and ink-pot. (Wrongly stated
by Cotman and Boutell to be at Holme Hale.)

1500. Rich. Foxwist, Llanbeblig, Carnarvonshire ;

Notary ; in bed holding a shield charged with
the Stigmata ; pen-case and ink-bottle.

Inscriptions.

1474. Robert Aldrych, Sail, Norfolk, public notary;
fragment.

1 56-. Robert Garet, Hayes, Kent, Rector of Hayes and

Chiselhurst ; notary public.
1580. John Bossewell, Gent., Kingsclere, Hants, " notarye

publique."

At Great Bircham, Norfolk, was formerly the effigy of
Master John Wattys, c. 1470, notary.

CHAPTER VI.

li

SIR JOHN DE CREKE AND WIFE
ALYNE, c. 1325,
Westley Waterless, Cambs.

CHAPTER VI.

OF FEMALE COSTUME ON BRASSES

More from a sense of convenience than of chivalry we
have given precedence in this account of costume to
knights and civiHans ; for the dress of the ladies, whether
of the fourteenth or of the nineteenth century frequently
shows a marked tendency to imitate that of their husbands.
It is well, therefore, to have some knowledge of the latter
before discussing the former.

The earliest brass of a lady, which survives in England,
is that of Margarete de Camoys, c. 13 lo, at Trotton,
Sussex. She wears a long and flowing cote-hardie, the
sleeves of which end a little below the elbows, thereby
exposing the tight-fitting buttoned sleeves of the kirtle,
which end at the wrists. Round the throat is a wimple,
covering the chin and carried up the sides of the face, to
which it gave a triangular appearance.' On the head is
the covRECHEF, kercMcf^ or veil, falling upon the shoulders,
and held in place by two pins on either side of the fore-
head, which, probably, also help to sustain the wimple.
The hair is bound by a narrow fillet across the forehead,
allowing a small curl to appear on either side. Pointed
shoes cover the feet, at which lies a small dog. The
hands are clasped in prayer. Originally the cote-hardie
was semie of nine enamelled shields, which have been

» See the stone effigy of Aveline, Countess of Lancaster, d. 1 269,
Westminster Abbey (engraved by Stothard). At Gonalston, Notts., is the
stone effigy of a lady, c. 1320, showing well the wimple and hair fillet,
(engraved in the Archaolo^cal Journal, Vol. VI., 1849). A good MS
example is afforded in Royal MS. 19BXV., British Museum, by "The
Woman sitting upon the Scarlet-coloured Beast " (/^^ Plate II. illustrating
"English Costume of the Early Fourteenth Century."— T/^^ Ancestor
No. VII., October, 1 903). She wears a cote with wide slits for the arms!
Compare the military coif de mailles.

240

FEMALE COSTUME

stolen.^ The slab also was sprinkled with flowers
(? marguerites) and held eight shields. The efiigy was
enclosed by an elegant crocketed canopy (lost), with
slender sideshafts. Round the verge of the slab the
Lombardic-uncial inscription ran : —

MARGARETE : DE ! CAMOYS I GIST : ICI :

DEvs : DE : SA : alme : eit : merci : amen.

A similar effigy is that of Lady Joan de Cobham, c. 1320,
Cobham, Kent. The covrechef is somewhat differently
treated, curving outward at the sides and barely touching
the shoulders. There is no dog at the feet. The cote-
hardie is plain. The effigy is surmounted by a fine
pedimental canopy, the earliest surviving on a brass in
England. The marginal Lombardic inscription, of which
no brass letters remain, runs : —

+ dame : lONE : de : kobeham : gist : isi :
DEVS : DE : SA : alme : eit : merci :
KIKE : PVR : le : alme : priera :
qvaravnte : iovrs : de : pardovn : avera.

Two other effigies in this costume exist : —

c. 1320. The reverse of the palimpsest brasses of Sir
Anthony Fitzherbert,'' 1538, and Lady, at
Norbury, Derbyshire, shows a large portion
of the figure of a lady, possibly Dame
Matilda, wife of Sir Theobald de Verdun,
13 1 2, buried in Croxden Abbey. The
long cote-hardie, over which is a mantle, is
tucked up under the right arm. The feet
rest on a lion.

* The mantle on a sculptured effigy of the thirteenth century at
Worcester, is similarly adorned with the arms of Clifford. See engraving
in Hollis and Journal of the British Archceological Association, Vol. VI.,
185 I, p. 5, "On the effigy of a Lady in Worcester Cathedral," by J. R.
Planche.

2 See among the Judges, p. 228.

FEMALE COSTUME

241

c, 1350. At Upchurch, Kent, is the half-effigy of a lady
(for male effigy, see p. 199). The edge of the
covrechef is crimped.

Besides the above, a few effigies survive of the
middle of the fourteenth century, the costume of
which enables them to be classed together. The head is
still attired in covrechef and wimple, but the hair is shown
plaited on either side of the face, bearing some reseni-
blance to ears of wheat. Over the close-fitting kirtle is
worn a sleeveless cote-hardie, an interesting stage in the
development of which toward the sideless cote-hardie^ soon
to be noticed, may be seen in the costume of Lady Creke.
This low-necked cote-hardie was of great length. Con-
sequently we find it gathered up under one arm, which,
besides exposing the skirt of the kirtle, affiDrded scope to
the engraver for a delicate treatment of the folds of the
drapery. Over this garment was worn a mantle, fastened
in front by a cord either passing through holes in the
mantle itself, or fastened to studs or brooches called
fermailes or tasseaux.

Examples, more or less conforming to the above
description, are as follows : —

A Lady, kneeling, Sedgefield, Durham, to which
Mr. J. G. Waller ascribes the date c. 1300-10.'^
The cote, which is girded, is gathered up
under the left arm. Over all a mantle.
c. 1325. Alyne, Lady Creke, Westley Waterless, Cambs.,
on the dexter side of her husband.^ The
cote-hardie (Jsurcote overte), gathered up under
the left arm, has large slits at the sides for
the arms, though not large enough for it to
be called '■^ sideless y Both mantle and cote-
hardie have an invecked pattern along their
borders. The feet rest on a small dog.

^ See ArchaologLa Aeliana, Vol. XV.

2 For whom, and inscription, see pp. 152-3.

R

242

FEMALE COSTUME

c. 1325. Maud, wife of Johan de Bladigdone {see p. 197),
East Wickham, Kent. Half effigy on dexter
side of husband ; wearing a cote-hardie with
slits of similar size to those of Lady Creke's,
but no mantle.

c, 1330. Joan de Northwode, Minster, Kent (for husband,
seey. 153). ^ Her chin, and the sides of her
hair, which Is plaited, are enclosed in a large
gorget.' Her head, which is without covre-
chef, rests on a cushion. Her hair is parted
in the centre. The sleeveless cote-hardie,
gathered up under the right arm, has two
curious pointed lappets hanging down in
front from the neck, lined with fur, and with
buttons on their inner edges. The right
foot rests on a dog with bell-collar. This
brass is probably of French workmanship'
(see p. 56).

^ Compare the stone effigy of A Lady of the Ryther Family, Ryther,
Yorkshire, Engraved by Hollis.

2 The costume on this brass is thus described in Stothard's Monumental
Effigies of Great Britain, new edition by John Hewitt, 1876, p. 91 a.

" Lady Northwood wears a kirtle with tight sleeves, terminating in an
"ornamental border at the wrists. The hooded surcoat is lined with
" vair, and bordered in the same pattern as the kirtle. The hood, being
" thrown off the head, shows us its fur lining in front of the figure.
" When worn close, it was drawn over the back and sides of the head till
" it reached the forehead in front, and was then fastened at the throat
" by that row of small buttons which is seen at its edge, below the hands.
"Armholes, for occasional use, add to the commodity of this garment.
" No example of a surcoat exactly similar to that of Lady Northwood has
" hitherto been observed in English monuments ; but in Montfaucon's
"'Monarchic Fran9aise' will be found two figures in which the resem-
" blance is very close : that of Jeanne de St. Verain, 1297, 'gravee sur sa
"tombe dans le Chapitre de I'Abbaye de Vauluisant' (ii., pi. 32) and
"that of Marguerite de Beaujeu, 1336 (ii., pi. 52). Of the latter,
"Montfaucon observes that 'son habit est assez remarquable' ; showing
" that, even in French monuments, this dress was not of common occur-
"rence. In this resemblance of the Minster effigy with known French
" examples is found an additional reason for believing it to have been of
" foreign workmanship. Over the neck and chin of the figure is seen the

FEMALE COSTUME 243

1347. Ellen, Lady Wantone, Wimbish, Essex (for
husband, see p. 156) ; wearing a plain mantle
fastened by a broad band in front, over a
flowing cote. The hair, which is uncovered,
except for a fillet is curiously braided.

1349. . Margaret de Walsokne, St. Margaret's, King's
Lynn, Norfolk. Flemish {see pp. 46, 197);
wearing wimple and covrechef, a finely-em-
broidered kirtle, over which is a sleeveless,
almost sideless, cote-hardie gathered up under
the right elbow, and a mantle, of which but
little appears. Feet on a dog.

1 364. Leticia and Margaret, wives of Robert Braunche,
St. Margaret's, King's Lynn. Flemish {see
pp. 46, 197) ; wearing wimple and covrechef,
the latter concealing the hair, and over an
embroidered kirtle a plain cote-hardie which
has liripipia or lappets, lined with vair, hang-
ing from the elbows, in shape like those of
the male cote {see p. 197). On the skirt sits
a toy-terrier.

In the second half of the century less uniformity of
costume is found. The last brass mentioned introduces us
to a form of the cote-hardie with which we became familiar
in the male costume of the period. Its characteristic lies
in the long liripipes or streamers, usually of a white
colour, hanging from the elbows.^

gorget, a variety of the wimple, which came into vogue in the reign of
"Edward the First. It was 'poked up with pins'; but its difference
" from the older wimple of the thirteenth century may best be seen by
"comparing the effigy of the Countess of Lancaster (plate 40). Tresses
" of hair are brought from the back of the head and fastened over the
" flowing hair of the sides, in a manner by no means ungraceful. Beneath
" the feet is a dog, with its collar of bells."

I Compare the sculptured effigy of Blanche de la Tour, daughter of
Edward III., 1 372, in Westminster Abbey, whose hands are in the pockets
of the cote, and the small figures in Westminster Abbey, and Oxford
Cathedral. S^-^ footnote, p. 198.

244

FEMALE COSTUME

Another form is. that known as the sideless cote-
HARDiE,' in which the sides of the garment have been cut
away, leaving narrow strips, often faced with fur, passing
over the shoulders and down the body. Its skirt, some-
times with a fur border, is occasionally found slit up at
the sides. From the neck to the waist large circular or
lozenge-shaped ornaments frequently appear. Over it
the mantle is usually worn, often with long pendent
cords held together by a slide. Under the cote, or
sometimes without it, is worn the kirtle with low neck
and tight-fitting sleeves, the latter usually buttoned on the
underside and terminating in mittens.^

Another tunic or cote, found worn over the kirtle
at Great Berkhampstead, Herts., 1360; Hellesden,
Norfolk, 1370; Chinnor, Oxon, 1380; Reepham,
Norfolk, 1391 ; and Ore, Sussex, c. 1400, has tight
sleeves with cuffs, and at Chinnor and Ore buttons from
neck to feet.

The head-dress presents much variety. The braided
style, with fillet already noticed, occurs ; but, broadly
speaking, the coiffures divide into two classes, the veiled,
and that known as zig-zag, nebule, or reticulated,
according to the manner of engraving.

The first consists of two kerchiefs ; the inner one fitting
the head like a cap and enclosing the forehead and sides
of the face, its edges being frequently crimped ; the outer
one falling on the shoulders, and corresponding to the
covrechef^ mentioned above. The gorget^ or wimple^ is
rarely found, but occurs at West Hanningfield, Essex
(Isabel Clonvill, half efligy, 1361), and at Topcliffe, York-

1 Fine examples on brasses of the sideless cote worn over embroidered
kirtle are at Ringstead in Zealand (Queen Ingeborg of Denmark, 13 19),
and at Thorn, in Prussian Poland (the Wife of Johan von Zoest, 1361),
figured by Creeny.

2 The kirtle is worn alone, and plain by Johane Plessi, c. 1 360, Quainton
Bucks (half effigy) and by Elyenore Corp, 1391, Stoke Fleming, Devon,
with buttons from neck to waist and on the sleeves from shoulder to
mitten.

FEMALE COSTUME 245

shire (Mabel de Topcliff, i390- ^ut these effigies pro-
bably illustrate the garb of widows, in whose attire the
gorget or plaited barbe survived.

The second class of attire consisted of cauls or close
caps, enclosing the hair and forming a kind of frame to
the face. The zig-zag, or nebule, appearance is probably
intended to represent frills^; the reticulated to portray
network, usually jewelled— a step towards the cresptne
head-dress soon to be noticed. The natural hair was
probably supplemented by pads of false ; as otherwise it is
difficult to account for the evident presence of a cap
beneath the coiffure. Sometimes a jewelled fillet, or
bandeau, crosses the forehead, as at Spilsby, Lines., 1391
Later in the century the nebule head-dress does not come
so low down the sides of the face as formerly, and resting
on the shoulders are shown two balls, or cushions, prob-
ably confining escaped tresses, between which and the
upper part of the head-dress the veil appears at the sides,
as at Cobham, Kent, 1395.

Two instances of young girls with flowing hair, in the
case of the latter enclosed in a simple jewelled fillet or
garland, may be seen at Quainton, Bucks. (Johane Plessi,
c. 1360), and Sherborne St. John, Hants. (Margaret
Brocas, c. 1360).

As a rule, a small toy terrier with a collar of bells is
seen at the lady's feet.

The following examples are arranged according to
coiffure. It may be understood that, where not otherwise
stated, the kirtle has mitten sleeves, buttoned beneath.

In veil head-dresses : —

c. 1370. Dame Elizabeth de Cornewaylle, Burford,
Shropshire ; lower part gone ; cote-hardie
with pockets in front, and tight sleeves;

I These frills bear some resemblance to the bonnets, now sometimes
seen worn by elderly peasants. That they are frills is plainly shown on the
monument of Elizabeth, Lady Montacute, 1 354, at Christ Church, Oxford.

246 FEMALE COSTUME

mantle with short pendent cords ; head
resting on an embroidered cushion.
1370. A Lady, possibly Blanche Bradstone, Winter-
bourne, Gloucs. ; similar, but without mantle
or cushion. The cote-hardie enfolds the feet.
c. 1370. Dame Joan de Faversham (?), Graveney, Kent;

half effigy, on dexter side of son John (?).
The cote has tight sleeves like those of Lady
Camoys. The kirtle sleeves end at the
wrists and are without buttons. The outer
veil, or covrechef, which is voluminous, alone
appears.

c. 1370. Beatrice, wife of Richard de Heylesdone, Hel-
lesdon, Norfolk (three-quarter effigy). Covre-
chef like the last. The cote has close sleeves,
and buttons down the front.

c. 1370. Agneys, wife of John de Kyggesfolde, Rusper,
Sussex (half effigy, on dexter side) ; in
similar head-dress ; the buttoned kirtle sleeves
ending at the wrists. A mantle with cords and
slide is worn.

1379. Alienora, wife of Robert de Paris, Hildersham,
Cambs. (kneeling on sinister side of cross) ;
the sleeves of the kirtle buttoned to the
shoulder, over it a cote, buttoned from neck
to feet, with short arm lappets.'
c. 1380. Alice, wife of Simon de Felbrig, Felbrigg, Nor-
folk; mutilated; kirtle and mantle.

At St. Alkmund's, Shrewsbury, was formerly the brass
of Simon and Joan Walshe, c. 1370. The latter wore the
cote-hardie with liripipes at the elbows, and the veil
head-dress.

The costume of widows remained practically the same
throughout three centuries, and was similar to that of the

' A similar coifFure is given in Strutt's Dress and Habits, Vol. II.,
Plate XCIX. "Mourning Habits of the Fourteenth Century."

FEMALE COSTUME 247

nun {see p. 98), where the Order of Vowesses or widow
who had taken a vow of chastity, is referred to. _ This
profession was known as « taking the mantle and ring
Widows' weeds consisted of kirtle, mantle, veil head-
dress, and plaited barbe or gorget, which was worn above
or below the chin according to rank.^
^.n6o. Half effigy of a widow, Clifton Campville

Staffs., on bracket, the stem of which is lost.

Kirtle, with buttoned sleeves ending at wrists.
1361. Isabel ClonviU (half effigy), West Hanning-

field, Essex (son, a priest, lost). The

buttoned kirtle sleeves end at the wrists.

The cole sleeves are like those at Upchurch.
1383. Philippa de Beauchampe {nee Ferrers), Necton,

Norfolk ; two dogs fighting at her feet.
c, 1390. A Lady, Stebbing, Essex; dog on skirt.
1 39 1. Mabel, wife of Thomas de Topclyff, Topchffe,

Yorks. Flemish. A hood attached to the

fur-lined mantle ; a dog gnawing a bone on

her skirt.

1 39 1. Albreda, wife of John Curteys, Wymington,

1 For further information see Surrey Archceological Collections, Vol. III.,
1865, p. 208. "Thomas Burgh and Isabella, his wife; with a few
words on the Benediction of Widows," by Francis Joseph Baigent ;
ArchaologLcal Journal, Vol. XLIX., 1892, p. 69. "Widows and
Vowesses," by J. L. Andre, F.S.A. ; Antiquarian Communications, being
papers presented at the meetings of the Cambridge Antiquarian Society, Vol, I.,

1859, No. XVII., p. 71. "The Vow of Widowhood of Margaret,
Countess of Richmond and Derby (Foundress of Christ's and St. John's
Colleges) : with Notices of similar vows in the 14th, 15th, and 1 6th cen-
turies," by C. H. Cooper, F.S.A.

2 " Mentioned by Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry
"VII., in her 'Ordinance for the Reformation of apparell for great
"Estates of Women in the tyme of Mourning.' — (Harleian MS. 6064).
"The queen, and all ladies down to the degree of a baroness, are therein
" licensed to wear the barbe above the chin. Baronesses, Lord's daughters
" and knights' wives, are ordered to wear the barbe beneath it, and all
" chamberers and other persons, * below the throat goyle,' or gullet, that
" is, the lowest part of the throat." — Planche Cyclopcedia of Costume, sub.
Barbe.

248

FEMALE COSTUME

Beds., on dexter side ; head on two cushions ;
feet on two bell-collared dogs.
1393/4- Elyne, wife of Sir Edward Cerne, Draycot
Cerne, Wilts., on dexter side; holding her
husband's right hand in hers; the kirtle
sleeves ending at the wrists ; the head resting
on a cushion.

1399. Alianore de Bohun, Westminster Abbey, widow
of Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Glouces-
ter,' youngest son of Edward III. A cote,
or tunic, worn over the kirtle ; head on two
cushions ; crimped edge to the inner veil.

The hair plaited at the sides, and bound with a fillet':—

1384. Katherine {nee Calthorpe), wife of Sir John
Harsick, Southacre, Norfolk, on dexter side
of husband, and holding his right hand in
hers; kirtle, on which are their arms im-
paled,^ and mantle ; feet on dog.

1403- Joan and Alice, wives of John Hauley, Dart-
mouth, Devon ; the husband, in the centre,
holding in his right hand that of his first wife.
Each wife wears a kirtle with sleeves buttoned
to the shoulders, and a sideless cote-hardie
with circular ornaments from neck to waist,
and a veil added to the head-dress. At the
feet of each are two dogs with bell-collars.

1407. Margaret, wife of Sir William Bagot, Baginton,
Warwickshire (head restored by Waller) ; on
dexter side ; kirtle with girdle ; sideless cote-
hardie ; vair-lined mantle ; collar of SS. ; two
dogs on the skirt ; head resting on two
cushions.

^ Who, also, was commemorated by a fine brass in the Abbey, now lost.

* Compare the sculptured effigy of Blanche de la Tour, 1372, daughter
of Edward III., in Westminster Abbey.

3 Geslingthorpe, assumed by Calthorpe (see Cotman) : — Ermine a
maunch gules impaling Harsick. 5^<? p. 161.

FEMALE COSTUME 249

The lost effigy of loan, wife of Sir Miles de Stapelton,
1364, Ingham, Norfolk, showed her on the dexter side of
her husband, holding his right hand in hers and wearing
a cote-hardie with Hripipes and buttons, and with pockets
in front, over a kirtle. A veil hung behind the hair.
At the feet was a dog.

The zig-zag head-dress, which is less frequently found
than the nebu/e, differs from the latter merely in the
treatment of the lines. Examples of it are as follows : —

1. In the earlier form, framing the sides of the face, but

not touching the shoulders.
c. 1370. Isabel Beaufo,' Waterpery, Oxon., mutilated.

The kirtle sleeves end at the wrists. The
cote-hardie has liripipes, and buttons to the
waist. The crimped cap appears below the
head-dress.

1372. Ismayne de Wynston, Necton, Norfolk. The
kirtle skirt does not cover the feet, and is
seen beneath that of the cote. Its sleeves
end at the wrists. The cote-hardie has liri-
pipes.^

2. In the later form, framing the face, but with veil and
cushions of hair falling to the shoulders.

1376. Lady Elizabeth Cobham, daughter of Ralph,
Lord Stafford, wife of Sir Reginald, 2nd
Baron Cobham, of Sterborough, Lingfield,
Surrey ; in sideless cote-hardie, with button-
like ornaments from neck to waist, and a
broad flounce of fur bordering the skirt ;
mantle.

^ At Wennington, Essex, is the matrix of an effigy (? Marjorie dc
Gildesburgh, c. 1380), which probably showed a similar costume.

2 In Kite's Monumental Brasses of Wiltshire, is an illustration restored
from a sketch by John Aubrey, of a lost brass, formerly at Draycot Cerne,
Wilts., probably of Philippa dc Cerne. Her costume is similar to that
at Necton, except that the head-dress is nebule instead of zig-zag.

250 FEMALE COSTUME

1380. Maud, wife of Sir Thomas Cobham, Cobham,
Kent; kirtle with buttons to waist, and
flounce of fur at the foot, over which is a
mantle. The feet rest on a dog of large
size, with bell-collar.

In nehuU head-dress, similar in form to the zig-zag
coiffure, last mentioned (2) : —

1356. Margaret, wife of Richard Torrington, Great
Berkhampstead, Herts. ; on dexter side of
husband and holding his right hand in hers ;
cote-hardie with liripipes worn over kirtle ;
two dogs with bell-collars at feet.
^- 1370- Joan {j^^^ Cobham), wife of Sir John de la Pole,
Crishall, Essex, holding her husband's right
hand in hers ; over kirtle a cote with liri-
pipes, and buttoned to the waist ; feet on dog
with bell-collar.

1375. Elizabeth (de Ferrers), wife of David de
Strabolgie, Earl of Athole, Ashford, Kent,
mutilated ; wearing over kirtle a sideless cote-
hardie, with lozenge-shaped ornaments from
neck to waist ; the skirt slit up at the sides.

1375. Dame Margarete de Cobham, Cobham, Kent;

wearing a sideless cote-hardie similar to the
last ; dog at her feet.

1378. Matilda and Joan, wives of Sir John de Foxley,^
Bray, Berks, (on bracket, the stem of which
rests on a fox couchant), each wearing over
kirtle a cote-hardie, with long liripipes hang-
ing from the elbows. Matilda's cote bears
the arms of Foxley (Gules two bars argent)
impaling Sable a lion rampant or (.''Brocas) ;
that of Joan {nk Martin) those of Foxley alone.

^ He is in armour of the Camail period, with jupon bearing his arms.
For his will, see Archaological Journal, Vol. XV., 1858, p. 267. "The
will of Sir John de Foxle of Apuldrefield, Kent, dated November 5th,
1378." Communicated by the Rev. William H. Gunner, M.A.

C.B.]

I

DAME MARGARETE DE COBHAM, 1395,
CoBHAM, Kent.

c.n.]

FEMALE COSTUME 251

c, 1380. -, wife of Sir — Dalyngrugge, Fletching,

Sussex ; wearing over kirtle, with buttons to
the waist, a mantle ; feet on dog.

c, 1380. Elizabeth, wife of Roger de Felbrig, Felbrigg,
Norfolk ; in kirtle and mantle.

c 1380. Thetwo wives of Reginald de Malyns, Chinnor,
Oxon. The lady on the dexter side wears
over a kirtle a long gown with close sleeves,
and buttons from neck to feet, unbuttoned
in the lower part. But the wife on the
sinister side differs somewhat ; her head-
dress being square and with the zig-zag orna-
ment, while the sleeves of the over-gown are
not represented. This may be due to an
engraver's error.

c. 1390. A Lady (?of the Roos family), Gedney, Lines.

over kirtle a sideless cote-hardie and mantle ;
at feet a dog with bell-collar.
139 1. Cecilia, wife of Sir William de Kerdiston,
Reepham, Norfolk ; kirtle, tunic, and mantle.

In the later form of nebule head-dress, in which the
sides of the face are not enclosed : —

c. 1370. A Lady, probably the wife of Sir Henry Red-
ford, Broughton, Lines. ; in kirtle and mantle,
holding a heart in her hands.
1395. Dame Margarete de Cobham, Cobham, Kent;

kirtle and mantle; head on embroidered
cushion.

c. 1400. Wife of Civilian, Ore, Sussex ; kirtle, over
which tunic or cote, buttoned from neck to
feet, with close sleeves and square-cut corsage.
1 40 1. Isabel, wife of Sir Morys Russel, Dyrham,
Gloucs., on dexter side of husband ; in kirtle
and mantle.

^Discovered 17th June, 1889.

252

FEMALE COSTUME

1406. Margaret, wife of Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl
of Warwick (daughter of William, Lord
Ferrers of Groby), St. Mary's, Warwick ; in
kirtle and mantle, beautifully diapered with
arms: on kirtle: — Gules seven mascles 3, 3,
and I (Ferrers) ; on mantle : — Gules a fess be-
tween six crosses-crosslet gobony or, (Beau-
champ).

Margaret, wife of Sir Henry Englissh, 1393, Wood
Ditton, Cambs., wears a kirtle and mantle, and her head,
now lost, was attired in this fashion.

The following wear the reticulated head-dress : —

1 39 1. Margaret, wife of Robert, Lord Willoughby
D'Eresby, Spilsby, Lines. ; in kirtle, sideless
cote-hardie with ornaments to waist, and
mantle ; jewelled fillet across forehead ; head
on two cushions ; feet on two bell-collared
dogs addorsed.

1393. Katherine, wife of Sir Thomas Walsh, Wanlip,

Leics., in similar costume.

1394. Dionisia, wife of Sir Richard Attelese, Sheldwich,

Kent ; in kirtle and mantle.
1400. Alicia, wife of Sir John Cassy, Deerhurst, Gloucs. ;

wearing over the kirtle a long gown reaching
to the feet, with close sleeves, and buttoned
high up round the neck ; no girdle nor
mantle. On the feet, which rest on a dog
with bell-collar, called Terri, are embroidered
shoes.

1400. Elianor, wife of Sir John Mauleverere, AUerton

Mauleverer, W. Yorks. ; in a girded kirtle
and flowing mantle.

1 40 1. Elizabeth , Goring, Oxon. ; in kirtle girded

and buttoned all down the front, and mantle ;
feet on dog with bell-collar.

FEMALE COSTUME 253

The long close-sleeved gown worn by some ladies over
the kirtle {e.g., 1400, Lady Cassy, mentioned above),
bears a close resemblance to the long tunic of the civihans.
Usually high in the neck, it is either buttoned up close,
or turned down forming a small collar. It is found both
with and without a girdle. Examples : —
c. 1400. A Wool Merchant's Wife, Northleach, Gloucs.,
on dexter side ; in mantle and veil head-dress,
but without barbe ; a ring on the third finger
of the right hand ; lap-dog on skirt.
1 40 1. Marion, wife of William Grevel, Chipping
Campden, Gloucs. ; in late form of nebuie
head-dress. Buttons are seen from neck to
feet on the gown.
c. 1405. Wife of Herry Notingham, Holm-by-the-
Sea, Norfolk ; in nei?u/e head-dress ; on dex-
ter side ; wearing a girdle ; buttons from neck
to waist.

14 10. Alicia, wife of Sir John Wylcotes, Great Tew,
Oxon, on dexter side ; no mitten sleeves to
kirtle ; wearing a mantle and nebule head-dress,
with veil hanging in front of the shoulders ;
a lap-dog on the skirt.

In the case of Margery, wife of Sir Thomas Burton,
Little Casterton, Rutland, 1410, the hair is confined in
reticulated cauls at the sides of the face, and is sur-
mounted by a kind of coronet. Possibly this may form
a connecting link between the reticulated and crespine
modes.^

An early form of the crespine head-dress, soon to be
described, is seen on a few brasses taking the form
of ornamented network placed above the ears, and en-
closing the hair on the top of the head, where a veil is
pinned which hangs behind. Examples : —

^ Compare the sculptured effigy in Westminster Abbey, of Edward the
Third's Queen, Philippa of Hainault, d. 1369.

FEMALE COSTUME

1 39 1. Elyenore Corp, Stoke Fleming, Devon, on short

bracket on dexter side of her grandfather
John Corp ; wearing kirtle alone, buttoned to
the waist, and on the arms from shoulders to
mittens.

1392. Margaret, wife of Thomas, Lord Berkeley,

Wotton-under-Edge, Gloucs., on dexter side ;
in kirtle and mantle ; head on two cushions ;
dog at feet.

1397. Lora, wife of Sir John de St. Quintin, Brands-
burton, Yorks. ; wearing over kirtle a long,
loose gown, high in the neck, and with wide
sleeves, a step, possibly, toward the surplice-
sleeve to be noticed below. From the head-
dress hang strings of pearls looped up at the
ears. She wears a necklace with pendant.
Dog at feet.

1400. Ele, wife of Richard Bowet, Wrentham, Suffolk ;

wearing over kirtle a wide-sleeved gown,
similar to the last, but with buttons from
neck to feet, and a girdle.

1 40 1. Margaret, wife of Sir Fulk Pennebrygg, Shottes-

brooke, Berks.; wearing over kirtle a long
gown with close sleeves and buttons from neck
to feet. The head rests on two cushions. The
gown is confined at the waist by a girdle, the
end of which falls down in front.
At Great Berkhampstead, Herts., is the brass of a lady,
c. 1360, wearing over a kirtle a long, close-sleeved gown
low in the neck. On her head is an early crespine head-
dress, with a veil arranged so as to frame the sides of the
face. One of the latten effigies of the children of
Edward IIL, on his tomb in Westminster Abbey, shows
a similar head-dress.

The chief change in the fashions of the first part of the
fifteenth century was in the head-dress. The kirtle and
mantle (both occasionally heraldic, and the former with

FEMALE COSTUME 255

mitten sleeves, buttoned underneath, until about the year
1420, when they ended at the wrists), and the sideless
cote-hardie preserve the forms with which we^ are already
familiar. These garments were worn by ladies of rank,
who sometimes, instead of the mantle, wore a long, loose
robe, probably fur-lined, with short, girded waist, surplice-
like sleeves reaching to the ground, and broad, falling
collar. This may be a form of the houppelande,"- of which
we have noticed two probable specimens on p. 206. A
dress corresponding to the bag-sleeved tunic of the
civilian of the period {see p. 203), but with longer skirt,
seems to have become an ordinary female outer-garment,
worn more particularly, but by no means exclusively, by
the middle classes.

The head-dress worn is the crespine, or crestine, com-
posed by gathering up the hair into jewelled cauls or
nets, on each side of the face and over the forehead, with
a veil hung over the top, and falling behind. This head-
dress went through various changes, which may be traced
in the examples given below.

The following wear the earlier form of crespine head-
dress (the hair bunched at the sides above the ears, which
are visible ; the veil falling gracefully in front), in con-
junction with kirtle and mantle. Small lap-dogs, usually
with bell- collars, are found either on the skirt or at the
feet : —

1404. Maria, wife of a Le Moigne, Sawtry All
Saints', Hunts., on dexter side ; head on two
cushions.

^ Possibly introduced from Spain into France, and so into England,
where it was fashionable as early as the reign of Richard II. Claricia,
wife of Robert de Freville, Esq., Little Shelford, Cambs., c, 1405, wears
a modified form of houppelande, the sleeves of which bear some
resemblance to those of Lora, wife of Sir John de St. Quintin, 1397, at
Brandsburton, Yorks. They are fur-lined. She wears a girdle and holds
her husband's right hand in hers. Her hair is plaited at the sides and
bound by a fillet, the veil appearing on the top of the head only. At her
feet are two toy terriers with bell-collars.

256 FEMALE COSTUME

1405. Margery, wife of Sir Roger Drury, Rougham,
Norfolk ; head on two cushions ; kirtle with
button-like ornaments to the waist from neck.
c. 1405. Iohanna(?), wife of Sir Thomas Massyngberde/
Gunby, Lines. ; collar of SS.
1407. Margaret Brounflet, Wymington, Beds. ;

lozenge-shaped ornament on kirtle from neck
to waist.

1409. Margaret, first wife of Bartholomew, Lord
Bourchier, Halstead, Essex, on dexter side.

1409. Alianora, wife of Sir William de Burgate, Bur-
gate, Suffolk.

1409. Ada, wife of Robert de Haitfeld, Owston,
Yorks., on dexter side, her right hand clasped
in that of her husband ; a collar possibly of SS.

1409/ 10. Alicia, wife of WiUiam Snayth, Addington,
Kent.

^.1410. A Lady, Hillmorton, Warwickshire; a scroll

from the hands.
141 1. Juliana, wife of Thomas de Cruwe, Wixford,

Warwickshire, on dexter side.
c. 141 2. Margaret, wife of Robert, Lord Ferrers of

Chartley, Merevale, Warwickshire ; head on

two cushions.

1414. Johanna, wife of John Urban, Southfleet, Kent,
on bracket.

A similar attire for the head is occasionally found with
the bag-sleeved gown worn over the kirtle, e.g. : —

c. 1400. Wife of a Civilian, Tilbrook, Beds. ; ungirded.
1420. Johanna, wife of John Urban, Southfleet, Kent ;

with girdle. The second memorial of the
same lady.

^ For an account of this family, see "The Massingberds of Sutterton,
Gunby and Ormsby," by the Rev. W. O. Massingberd. — TAe Jncestor,
No. VII., October, 1903, p. i.

FEMALE COSTUME 257

The cauls of the crespine head-dress gradually became
larger, assuming a square shape and covering the ears :
the veil hung on the shoulders much as before : —

1416. Margaret, wife of Sir Simon Felbrigge, K.G.,
Felbrigg, Norfolk ; in kirtle and mantle.

141 8. Agnes, wife of Sir Thomas de Saint Quintin,
Harpham, Yorks., on dexter side ; in girded
gown with voluminous bag-sleeves, with
large cuffs, and broad collar.

The square cauls are more prominent, and are over-
lapped by the veil which hangs behind : —

1410. Agnes, wife of Sir John Routh, Routh, Yorks.,
on dexter side ; in girded bag-sleeved gown
like that at Harpham above, with inlaid
collar and cuffs, and probably a collar of SS.
like that of the knight, but owing to the
destruction of the enamel only the pendant
appears. The veil of the head-dress is
gathered up on the top of the head, as in the
case of Lady Phelip, 141 5, at Kidderminster
(see below).

1 414. Dame PhiHppa Byschoppesdon, Broughton,
Oxon., in kirtle and mantle.

1423. Alice, wife of Sir Ralph Shelton, Great Snoring,

Norfolk ; in kirtle and mantle ; the former
without mitten sleeves, and charged with her
arms : — Argent a cross moline gules, Uvedale.

1424. Elizabeth, wife of Thomas, Baron Camoys

(previously of Henry Percy " Hotspur "),
Trotton, Sussex ; in kirtle with girdle ; side-
less cote with ornament from neck to waist ;
mantle and collar of SS. Her son (Sir
Richard) stands on her skirt {see p. 206).

Similar head-dresses appear on the brasses of Millicent
Meryng, 1415, East Markham, Notts, and of Margery
Arundell, 1420, East Anthony, Cornwall, mentioned

s

258

FEMALE COSTUME

among those wearing the gown with surplice sleeves. A
celebrated and enormous instance of this attire, sur-
mounted by a large coronet, the veil wired on either side,
is to be seen on the sculptured effigy of Beatrice, Countess
of Thomas Fitz Alan, Earl of Arundel {d. 1439, Arundel,
Sussex), who wears kirtle, sideless cote and mantle.

The next development shows the cauls curving outwards
and upwards, and terminating above the head in a pair of
horns. This form is called the Horned, lunar^ mitre or
heart shaped head-dress, according to the shape which it
assumes. This coiffure is said to have been made fashion-
able by Isabella of Bavaria, Queen of Charles VI. of France,^
where it was known in this and its later developments as
the Hennin, escoffion cornue or aux comes, and seems sorely
to have wounded the susceptibilities of the clergy and of
contemporary satirists, many of whom inveighed against it.^

In the following instances it is worn with kirtle and
mantle, and except where otherwise stated, the cauls are
richly worked ^ : —
141 9. Margaret, wife of William Cheyne, Hever,
Kent ; plain cauls ; mitten sleeves to the kirtle ;
head resting on a cushion supported by two
angels clad in amices and girded albs.
c. 1420. Elizabeth, wife of Peter Halle, Esq., Herne,
Kent ; on dexter side, holding husband's right
hand in hers ; the girdle of the kirtle showing
beneath the sideless cote ; necklace with cir-
cular pendant.

^ See Planche, General History, pp. 124-128, and Dictionary, sub mm.
" Head-dress." In the former, facing p. 1 26, is a coloured plate, " Christine
de Pisan presenting her Book to Isabel of Bavaria, Queen of Charles VI. of
France. From the book itself now in the British Museum, Harl MS.,
643 I." The Queen and some of her ladies wear the wide-horned head-
dress, exposing the ears, and the long surplice-sleeved, girded gown,
fur-lined and with broad falling collar.

2 The horned head-dress is caricatured on the carved woodwork of the
stalls at Ludlow, Shropshire.

3 A good instance was the brass of Cecilia, wife of Brian de Stapilton,
1438, lost from Ingham, Norfolk.

I

l\mmt Wm jMUndtiin milra or afji imijni iim oltttt fltr mrafta sum M-ftw • a^mmj ■ c c £f5°
Ilf 'iBfiimwa ii?iIiiiiiiifi/5 miira Oi« [ram irsfynniriinTi Hm mmi oliiitilfllif flttobua Odi of ftrrrton ffrjijlR unnffrtmr

SIR WILLIAM ECHYNGHAM WITH WIFE JOAN
AND SON SIR THOMAS, 14+4,
Etchingham, Sussex.

[C.B.

[C.B.

FEMALE COSTUME 259

1435. Isabella, wife of Richard Delamere, Esq., Here-

ford Cathedral ; sideless cote ; Collar of SS.
(not worn by her husband).

1436. Anna, wife of John Martyn, Justice of the

King's Bench, Graveney, Kent.

1437. Joan, wife of Robert Skerne, Kingston-upon-

Thames, Surrey; on dexter side; wearing
necklace with circular ornament.
1437. Joan, wife of Sir Thomas Brook, Thorncombe,
Devon ; Collar of SS.

c. 1440. The Lady Philippa, wife of John Halsham,
West Grinstead, Sussex {d. 1395) ; plain cauls.
She was daughter of David de Strabolgie,
Earl of Athol. Her mother's brass at Ashford
is cited on p. 250.

c. 1440. A Lady, {J) of Devenish family, Hellingly,
Sussex (discovered 1869).

c. 1440. A Lady, Great Ormesby, Norfolk (three-quarter
effigy), appropriated for Alice, wife of Sir
Robert Clere, 1538. In her hands a heart
circumscribed in black letter Erth my body

1 give to the / on my soule Ihti have m'cy."
Plain cauls.

1 44 1. Joice, wife of Sir Hugh Halsham, West Grin-
stead, Sussex; on dexter side.

1444. Joan, wife of Sir William Echyngham, Etching-
ham, Sussex ; between husband and son.

1444. Elizabeth, wife of William Fynderne, Esq.,
Childrey, Berks. The kirtle bears : — Argent a
chevron between three crosses patt6 fitche sable,
the chevron charged with an annulet of the
field for difference — Fynderne. The mantle
bears: — Quarterly i and 4 Argent a bend
nebule between two cotises gules (the arms
of Sir John Kyngeston, her first husband) ;

2 and 3 Argent a whirlpool gules — Chelvey
(her paternal coat). On the skirt of the
kirtle is a lion couchant.

26o

FEMALE COSTUME

Joan, first wife of Sir Giles Daubeney, daughter
of John, Lord Darcy, South Petherton,
Somerset. The girdle of the kirtle appears
from beneath the sideless cote. The girdle
and head-dress cauls are ornamented with
cinquefoils.^

Alice, first wife of William, Lord Zouch,
Okeover, Staffs. ; plain cauls (appropriated
for Isabell, wife of Humphrey Oker, Esq.,

1538).

The following are some instances of the surplice-sleeved
gown (described above, p. 255), possibly a form of the
houppelande, worn by ladies of position^: —

c. 14 10. Lucy, first wife of William, fourth Baron
Willoughby d'Eresby, Spilsby, Lines. ; on
dexter side. The gown has a standing collar.
The crespine head-dress does not cover the
ears, nor has it a veil ; it is surmounted by a
kind of coronet. The hands are held up, not

1 Possibly in allusion to the Daubeney Arms {see p. 1 69 note). This effigy
lies on an altar tomb with that of Sir Giles. His second wife, Mary,
daughter of Simon Leek has a brass on the floor, 1442. Her costume is
similar to that of the first wife, except for the absence of girdle and
toy terrier. See illustration Somerset and Dorset Notes and Queries, Vol. I.,
1890, p. 241, accompanying description by Hugh Norris.

2 A fine example of this costume on an incised slab is at East Horndon,
Essex, Alice, wife of Sir John Tyrell, Knight, 1422. The Flemish brass
at All Saints', Newcastle, I429,representing Agnes, wife of Roger Thornton,
Esq., shows broad sleeves, but scarcely sufficiently so to be said to belong
to the houppelande. Mr. J. G. Waller in Jrchaolo^a Jeliana, Vol. XV.,
p. 78, writes : "It is not easy to describe the lady's dress, but it consists
" of a tunic flowing to the feet, confined at the waist by a girdle, having
" open hanging sleeves, plaited upon the chest, and buttoned about the
" neck. Over all is an ample mantle, and it seems to have an upright
" stifl" collar, the wings of which are seen projecting on each side of her
"veil. [CompareLucy, Lady Willoughby d'Eresby, f. 1 410.] Her head-
" dress is curious. There is an inner covering, veil-like in form, over
" which is the veil proper, which seems to have projecting horns or pads
" from which it hangs down in the usual manner."

1445.

1447.

FEMALE COSTUME 261

clasped. This brass belongs, as does the
next instance, to a local school of engraving.
1410. Wife of a Knight, South Kelsey, Lines. ; in early
form of horned head-dress with large veil.'

1415. loan, wife of John Peryent, Esq., Digswell,
Herts. ; on dexter side ; wearing Collar of SS.
A swan is engraved on the left side of the
collar ; a hedgehog is represented on the skirt.
The head-dress, to which no similar example
is known on a brass, is triangular in form ;
the veil merely showing in folds on the top,
after the manner of that worn by Lady
Phelip (141 5) Kidderminster, and by Lady
Routh {c. 14 10) Routh, Yorks.

141 5. Matilda, wife of Sir John Phelip, Kidderminster,
Worcs. ; square cauls with veil folded on the
top of the head ; } Collar of SS.
.1415. Mellicent, wife of Sir William Meryng, East
Markham, Notts. ; square cauls.

141 8. Matilda, wife of John Fossebrok, Esq., Cranford
St. Andrew, Northants ; horned head-dress
unornamented ; wearing a Collar (.?) of SS.

1420. Margery, wife of Thomas Arundell, Esq., East
Anthony, Cornwall ; square cauls.

1420. Isabella, wife of lohn Doreward, Esq., Bocking,
Essex ; square cauls.
c. 1420. Katherine, wife of Thomas Quartermain, Thame,
Oxon.

c. 1420. A Lady, Horley, Surrey (inscription added for
Joan Fenner, 1516). The veil of the head-
dress is tucked up behind, not falling on the
shoulders. Collar (J) of SS.

c. 1420. A Lady, Brampton- by -Dingley, Northants;

head gone. Possibly she may have worn a
head-dress like that of Lady Phelip.

^Another Lincolnshire example was at Scrivelsby, c. 1430, Elizabeth,
wife of Sir Thomas Dymoke. Illustrated in Transactions of the Monumental
Brass Society, Vol. II., p. 108. 5^^ also Jeans' List, p. 58.

262

FEMALE COSTUME

1433-
c. 1440.

1430. Agnes, wife of Thomas Salmon, Esq., Arundel,
Sussex ; horned head-dress ; a large Collar of
SS. Principal woman to Beatrice, Countess
of Arundel and Surrey (daughter of John I.
of Portugal).
Catherine, wife of William Rikhill, Northfleet,

Kent ; horned head.
Elizabeth, first wife of Sir Laurence Pabenham,
Orford Darcy, Hunts. ; in horned head-dress
(lower half of effigy lost).

The following are among those who wear the girded
bag-sleeved gown ' with the horned head-dress, the cauls
of which are usually unornamented : —

1 4 1 4. Cristina, wife of John Cressy,Dodford,Northants ;

on dexter side.
1420. Cristina Bray, Felstead, Essex (half effigy).
1424. Elizabeth, wife of John Poyle, Esq., Hampton

Poyle, Oxon.

1426. Sarra, wife of John Cosyngton, Esq., Aylesford,
Kent.

1430. Alyanora, wife of John Pollard, St. Giles-in-the-
Wood, near Torrington, Devon.
c. 1430. A Lady, in private possession, Wroxall Abbey,
Warwickshire.

c. 1430. Johanna Kelly, Tintagil, Cornwall (three-quarter
effigy).

c. 1430. Wife of a Man in Armour, Harlow, Essex.
1432. Isabelle, wife of Nicholas Carew, Beddington,
Surrey.

1435. Elizabeth and Alice, wives of Thomas Wide-
ville, Esq., Bromham, Beds.; ornamented
cauls. The second wife has the rare addition

I Occasionally a girded gown with tight sleeves is found worn with the
horned head-dress, e.g. : —

1428. Maud, wife of John Norwiche, Yoxford, Suffolk.
c. 1480. Anna, wife of Henry Jarmon, Geddington, Northants.

Jiriant ijDlfts (Bflnra qmraflui imiff/l ftmtaMlmifloti p (

JOHN BACON AND WIFE JOAN, 1437,
All Hallows' Barking, London.

[c.B.

FEMALE COSTUME 263

of the mantle worn with this gown. The
brass was appropriated to commemorate Sir
John Dyve, his mother and wife, 1 535.

1435. Margaret, wife of John Launcelyn, Cople, Beds.

1435. Margery, wife of John Ailmer, Erith, Kent; on
dexter side.

c. 1435. Margaret, wife of Hugo Bostock, Wheathamp-
stead, Herts.

1437. Joan, wife of John Bacon, All Hallows' Barking,
London.

c. 1440. A Lady, Bigbury, Devon ; a crescent in front of
head-dress, the cauls of which are ornamented.

1 44 1. Elizabeth, wife of John Boteler, Mepshall, Beds.

1442. Margaret and Joan, third and fourth wives of

Reginald Spycer, Cirencester, Gloucs.
1447. Joan, wife of Robert Hoton, Wilberfosse, Yorks.

Occasionally the veil head-dress is worn^ with the bag-
sleeved gown. Examples : —

1400. Joan, wife of John Mulsho, Newton-by-
Geddington, Northants ; kneeling on sinister
side of cross, in the head of which is the figure
of St. Faith ; no girdle.

1402. , wife of Richard Martyn, Dartford, Kent.

f. 1410. A Lady, St. Stephen's, Norwich ; two bedesmen
below the feet. Appropriated for Eel Buttry,
"su'tyme pryores of Campese," 1546.

1 4 1 6. Elena, wife of Thomas Stokes, Ashby St. Legers,
Northants.

141 8. Edith, wife of Thomas Polton, Wanborough,
Wilts, (half effigy), parents of Archdeacon
Polton, see ^. 138.
c. 1425. Margaret, wife of John Framlingham,Debenham,
Suffolk (half effigy).

'Katherine Stoket, c. 1420, at Lingfield, Surrey, wears the veil head-
dress with kirtle with mitten sleeves and mantle.

264

FEMALE COSTUME

In a few cases the covrechef seems to have plain bands
or frilling framing the forehead, e.g. : —

141 5. Maria, wife of William West, Sudborough,
Northants.

c. 1430. A Lady, with ecclesiastic and civilian, Melton,
Suffolk,

c. 1440. Margaret, wife of Robert Pa^ge, Cirencester,
CjIoucs.

1442. Margaret, first wife of Reginald Spycer, Ciren-
cester, Gloucs; wearing gown with close
sleeves.

A widow appears dressed in a kirtle, over which is a
long close-sleeved gown, sometimes girded, and a mantle.
The head-dress consists of the close-crimped cap and
covrechef, and the plaited l^arl^e or chin-cloth^ which in
some cases {e.g., Tong, Salop ; Lowick, Northants, 1467 ;
and Stretham, Cambs., 1497) covers the shoulders like a
cape. Among palimpsest brasses may be mentioned the
figure of a widow (c. 1440) in gown with long surplice
sleeves on the reverse of the efiigy of Bishop John White
{c. 1548), Winchester College, and that of a widow {c. 1460)
on the reverse of a priest in cope, of the same date, in the
Temple Church, Bristol.

Instances of this costume, lacking the barbe, are rare.
Of the three which we mention Lady Cobham was not a
widow at the time of her death : —

1425. Beatrice, wife of William Chichele, Higham
Ferrers, Northants ; mitten sleeves to kirtle.

1433. Katherine, wife of John Leventhorpe, Esq.,
Sawbridgeworth, Herts.

1433. Joan, Lady de Cobham, Cobham, Kent; mitten
sleeves to kirtle. She married (i) Sir Robert
Hemenhale ; (2) Sir Reginald Braybrok ; (3)
Sir Nicholas Hawberk ; (4) Sir John Old-
castle ; (5) Sir John Harpedon, who survived
her, and whose brass is in Westminster
Abbey {see p. 169).

SIR REGINALD HRAYHROK AND SONS
REGINALD AND ROBERT, 1405,
CoBHAM, Kent.

C.B.]

SIR NICHOLAS IIAW15ERK AND SON JOHN,
CoBiiAM, Kent.

FEMALE COSTUME 265

The following examples of widows throughout the
fifteenth century conform to the above costume except
where otherwise mentioned^ : —

1405. Margaret, wife of Thomas de Freville, Esq.,
■ Little Shelford, Cambs. ; on dexter side,
holding husband's right hand in hers.^
1409. Idonea, second wife of Bartholomew, Lord
Bourchier, Halstead, Essex.
c. 1 410. Pernel, wife of Nichol Rolond, Cople, Beds.;
on dexter side.
1 41 9. Alice, wife of John Lyndewode, Linwood,
Lines. ; mitten kirtle sleeves.
c, 1420. Johanna, wife of Sir Arnold Savage, Bobbing,
Kent.

c. 1420. Widow of a Civilian Joan, wife of John

Barloe) Pelham Furneaux, Herts.
c. 1420. Joan, wife of Thomas Quartermain, Esq.,
Thame, Oxon.
1422. Cecilia, wife of William Wylde, Esq., Dodford,
Northants ; dexter side (the mother of Cristina
Cressy, mentioned above).
1425. Margery, wife of Sir WiUiam Molyns, Stoke

Poges, Bucks.
1427. Margery Argentine {bis viduatd) Elstow, Beds.
c. 1430. AHce, wife of Sir Edmund Bryan, Acton,
Suffolk.

1430. Joan, widow of Sir Wm. (.?) Clopton, Quinton,
Gloucs. ; vowes " Que tibi sacrata clauditur
hie vidua."

1432. Cristiana, wife of Robert Baxter, St. Giles',

Norwich ; mitten kirtle sleeves.

1433. Margery, wife of William Harwedon, Esq.,

Harrowden Magna, Northants ; on bracket.

^ A good example, lost from Ingham, Norfolk, was that of Ela, wife
of Sir Miles Stapleton, c. 1425.

2 " Postea sacre maiestatis arnica professa."

266

FEMALE COSTUME

1436. Matilda, wife of Thomas Chaucer, Esq., Ewelme,
Oxon. ; at feet a lion couchant queue
fourchee (crest of Burghersh).

1436. Margaret, wife of Richard Purdaunce, St. Giles',
Norwich.

1440. Matilda, wife of Clitherow, Ash-next-

Sandwich, Kent ; lower part gone.

1445. Alianora, wife of John Throckmorton, Esq.,

Fladbury, Worcs.

c. 1445. , wifs or mother of Sir William Wadham,

Ilminster, Somerset.

1446. Agnes, wife of Thomas Reynes, Esq., Marston

Morteyne, Beds.

1454. Agnes, wife of Sir Thomas Molyngton, Dart-
ford, Kent. Her first husband was William
Hesilt, Baron of the Exchequer, whose brass
was at Northfleet, Kent.

1459. Eufemia, wife of Sir John Langton, St. Peter's,
Leeds, Yorks.

c. 1460. A Widow of the Forster family, Harpsden, Oxon.
c. 1460. A Widow, Great Thurlow, Suffolk.
c. 1460. Margaret, wife of Sir John Byron, Manchester
Cathedral.

1462. Matilda, wife of Sir Thomas Grene, Greens

Norton, Northants.
1462. Isabella, wife of George Langham, Esq., Little

Chesterford, Essex.
1464. Anna, wife of Sir Henry Norbury, Stoke

D'Abernon, Surrey ; children on skirts.

1466. Margaret, wife of Richard Ask, Esq., Aughton,

Yorks.

1467. Margaret, wife of Sir William Vernon, Tong,

Salop; barbe covering shoulders; sideless

cote ; ermine-lined mantle ; feet on elephant.
1467. Margaret, wife of Henry Grene, Esq., Lowick,

Northants ; head on embroidered cushion.
1474. Elizabeth, wife of William Fitzwilliam, Sprot-

borough, Yorkshire.

MATILDA CLITHEROW, c. 1440,
Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent.

C.B.]

!

FEMALE COSTUME 267

1476. Margaret, wife of Sir Richard Byngham, Justice
of the King's Bench, Middleton, Warwick-
shire ; large rosary hanging from waist.

c. 1480. A Widow, Grendon, Northants ; between two
men in armour.

c. 1480. Anne, wife of Sir Thomas Tyrell, East Horndon,
Essex.

1487. Joan, wife of William Brokes, Esq., Pepper
Harrow, Surrey; kneeling at desk; rosary
hanging from right hand.

1489. Agnes, wife of Thomas Mountford, Esq.,
Hornby, North Yorks.
c. 1490. A Widow, Luton, Beds.

1497. Matilda, Lady Willoughby d'Eresby, Tatters-
hall, Lines. (? engraved c. 1460). ist husband,
Robert, sixth Lord Willoughby d'Eresby,
K.G., d. 1454; (2) Sir Thomas Neville,
d. 1460; (3) Sir Gervase Clifton, d. 1471.

1497. Joan, wife of John Swan, Stretham, Cambs.

1 501. Catherine, wife of Sir William Pyrton, Little
Bentley, Essex.

About the year 1460 we find a different form of gown
in use, worn over the kirtle, which latter garment appears
at the neck, and sometimes at the feet. This gown, with
but small alteration, remained in fashion for three-quarters
of a century. In the earlier examples it is distinguished
by being cut very low at the neck, where a fur border
appears. The sleeves are tight-fitting, ending in cuffs
reaching to the knuckles, but usually turned back, showing
a fur lining, which, often probably, was extended to the
whole garment. The gown appears to have had a fur-
edged opening, reaching to below the waist, and kept closed
by means of a girdle.

The horned head-dress becomes more acutely pointed,
the cauls usually being plain, and the veil either hanging
behind the shoulders or, more frequently, raised off the

268

FEMALE COSTUME

shoulders in two folds. The following examples illustrate
this change in the head-attire : —

{a) In kirtle and mantle, the veil falling behind the
shoulders, except at Thame and Latton : —

1440. A Lady, Minehead, Somerset (ornamented

cauls) ; sideless cote.
c, 1440. A Lady, Horton Kirby, Kent.
c. 1450. Elena, wife of Sir John Bernard, Isleham,

Cambs. (ornamented cauls).
1458. Jamima, wife of Sir Thomas Shernborne, Shern-

bourne, Norfolk ; sideless cote.
1460. Sybil, wife of Richard Quatremayns, Esq.,

Thame, Oxon. ; sideless cote.
c. 1460. Margaret, wife of William Browne, All Saints,

Stamford, Lines.
c. 1460. Elizabeth, wife of , Bigbury,

Devon ; ornamented cauls ; sideless cote ;

head on cushion ; a cross hanging by a chain

round neck.

c. 1460. Elizabeth, wife of Roger Dencourt, Upminster,
Essex ; sideless cote ; ornamented cauls.
1467. Catherine (.?), wife of Sir Peter Arderne, Latton,
Essex ; ornamented cauls ; sideless cote.

(J?) In other costume, where not mentioned, the fur-
cuffed gown : —

1454. Cecily, wife of Roger Felthorp, Blickhng, Nor-
folk ; bag-sleeved gown ; five daughters
similar.

1458. Agnes, wife of Sir Robert Staunton, Castle
Donnington, Leics. ; ornamented cauls ; cross
hanging by chain round neck ; three daugh-
ters similarly dressed on her skirt.
1462/3. Agnes, wife of Oto Trevnwyth, St. Ives, Corn-
wall ; bag-sleeved gown ; kneeling before St.
Michael.

frfjtoiljrfiiMfnfjanrted ^
HfJrniDisailirttotfflniji]!! paft ^
Jnaififti^liiffliiTiiriafll ^
saijfltpo It inail^uii' nmi ami

^Iio%!i rrtjift0 atljrotWiiiOfiTlDiif
f\$ fljat gif filif III lilifir^uTuf V

JANE KERIELL, c. 1460,
Ash-n?.xt-Sandwich, Kent.

(p.B.]

FEMALE COSTUME 269

1465. Margaret, wife of Nicholas Assheton, Callington,
Cornwall.

1470. Dame Christina, wife of Matthew Phelip, Heme,
Kent; ornamented cauls showmg alternate
suns and roses— the badge of the House of
York ; fur-lined mantle over fur-cuffed gown ;
large rosary ; hands held outwards.

1470. Alicia, wife of Robert Watton, Addington,

Kent.

c. 1470. Emma, wife of Sir Henry Grey, Ketteringham,
Norfolk.

147 1. Johanna, wife of Roger Kyngdon, Quethiock,

Cornwall.

1472. Margaret, Clemens, and Isabella, wives of

Robert Ingylton, Esq., Thornton, Bucks.
1478. Petronilla, wife of Richard Bertlot, Esq., Stop-
ham, Sussex.

c. 1480. A Lady, Baldock, Herts., ? Margaret or Joan,
wife of William Crane, 1483.
1485. Avice, wife of William Goldwell, Great Chart,
Kent.

The horned head-dress seems to have become more of
a mitre shape ; witness the brass of Jane, wife of — Keriell
(1460) Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent, wearing the fur-trimmed
gown with broad sleeves, and a unique head-dress with a
horseshoe ornament in front, but no veil.

Decorated cauls, surmounted by coronets, are seen in
the two following instances : —

c. 1470 (eng.) Joice (d. 1446), daughter and heir of Sir
Edward Charlton (Lord Powis) and Eleanor
(daughter of Thomas Holland, Earl of Kent,
and formerly wife of Roger Mortimer, Earl
of March) and wife of Sir John Tiptoft,
Baron Tiptoft and Powis, Enfield, Middlesex.
Wearing kirtle, ermined sideless cote, heraldic

270

FEMALE COSTUME

mantle charged with Charlton impaling Hol-
land, and a large necklace. The veil is curiously-
treated.^

1483. Isabel Plantagenet, daughter of Richard, Earl
of Cambridge, and wife of Henry Bourchier,
Earl of Essex (whose mother, Anne, was
daughter of Thomas of Woodstock, sixth son of
Edward III.), Little Easton, Essex. Wearing
kirtle, ermined sideless cote, mantle and Collar
of Suns and Roses, with a pendant or toret of
the lion couchant of March. The ears are
concealed by two cauls, behind which is seen
a veil. The head rests on a cushion upheld
by two angels ; the feet on an eagle, a Bour-
chier cognizance. A magnificent brass, retain-
ing its colour.

The mitred head-dress without veil is sometimes found
worn by groups of daughters below the effigies of their
parents. Instances exist at South Weald, Essex, c. 1450,
in a group of twelve children, six of them daughters, of
whom the parents are lost ; at Quy, Cambs., c. 1465, worn
by four daughters of John Ansty, Esq. ; at Abingdon
Pigotts, Cambs., by eight daughters of a Civilian, c. 1470.

The transition from the horned form of head-dress to
that known as the Butterfly is interesting to note. As
in the case of the chaperon or hood, noticed above, p. 209,
the early kind of the butterfly head-dress seems to have
been formed by wearing the horned head-dress horizontally
instead of perpendicularly ; in other words, the cauls con-
fining the hair are removed from the sides to the back of
the head, and the hair is strained off the forehead and

For this manner of wearing the coronet, compare illustration, p. 273,
Planche's Cyclopaedia of Costume, 1876 (Vol. I., Dictionary) -. "Ladies,
circa 1450, from a drawing in the portfolio of M. De Gagnieres, Paris."
The arms of Charlton, Lord Powys, are: — A lion rampant gules; those
of Holland, Earl of Kent :— Three lions of England within a bordure
argent.

JOICE, LADY TIPTOFT AND POWIS,

d. 1++6, ENGRAVED C. I47O,

Enfield, Middlesex.

FEMALE COSTUME 271

confined behind. From the veil of the horned head-dress
then was developed the winged appearance behind, which
has given the name of hutterfly head-dress to this style
which prevailed in the reign of Edward IV Examples
of this transition, showing but slight traces of the veil and
taking the form of square projections at the back ot the
head, are to be found on brasses chiefly amongst the
effigies of daughters on the tombs of their parents, e.g,
(all wearing the fur-lined gown, low in the neck) : —

1467. Three daughters on the brass of Sir William and
Lady Vernon, Tong, Salop.

1475. A Lady, Rainham, Essex.

1477. Three daughters on the brass of John Feld and

son, Standon, Herts.
1480. Five daughters on the brass of Civilian (lost) and

wife, who wears the later horned-head with

veil, Chelsfield, Kent.

Indeed, on the brass of Robert Ingleton and three wives
(1472) Thornton, Bucks., one daughter is turned sideways
showing the butterfly-head, whilst the others, affronte, wear
the same head-dress as their mothers.

The later form of the " hennin " may be said to have
taken two shapes, the steeple and the butterfly ; the former
consisting of " round caps gradually diminishing to the
" height of half or three-quarters of an ell, with a loose
*' handkerchief atop, sometimes hanging as low as the
" ground." ^ Of this no example occurs on a brass, unless
the five daughters of Sir Thomas and Lady Urswyk (1470)
Dagenham, Essex, are wearing a modified form without
the veil.

Planche's description^ defines the butterfly variety.
Illuminations give a better idea of this head-dress than

1 Planche's Cyclopadia, Vol. II., "General History," p. 127.

2 " The bonnet or cap, the proper name for which was cornet, is seen
" through the veil of gauze which is sustained, curiously folded, high
" above its apex by wires so fine as to be invisible, instead of being loosely

272 FEMALE COSTUME

brasses, though it must be admitted that the latter are
sufficiently successful, considering the difficulty of the
medium when employed to represent the diaphanous texture
of the veil, which constituted one of the great elegancies
of this attire. It will be noticed that in order to give a
due representation the engravers resorted to the expedient
of drawing the head-dress en profile^ thereby producing the
effect from which this has been called the '■''butterfly'' or
" wired " head-dress/

The following examples are noteworthy." Those at
Ingrave, Harley, Melford and Crowan have a narrow veil
in front, to be developed later into the frontlet of the
pedimental head-dress. Fine necklaces or carcanets occur.
The girdles sometimes have pendent ends : —

1466. Mare^aret, daughter of Sir Lewes John, Ingrave,
Essex ; in kirtle and mantle ; dog with bell
collar on skirt.

1470. , wife of Sir Thomas Urswyk, Dagenham,

Essex ; mantle over fur-trimmed gown, the
cuffs of which are not turned back; belled
dog at feet ; a fine necklace.
c. 1470. , wife of Aubrey, Clehongre, Here-

fordshire. The gown, instead of exposing a
fur-lining,shows one of some diapered material.
c. 1 470. Agnes, wife of Sir William Yelverton, Rougham,
Norfolk ; fur-trimmed gown and mantle ;
large necklace.

" thrown over it, or attached only to the top, and allowed to stream down
" behind almost to the ground. In the latter instance a smaller veil was
" worn over the head beneath the cornet shading the face and neck."
Planche, Vol. II., p. 127-8. (5r<? Woodcuts annexed, Front and side
views of Hennins, from the Traite de Tournois of Rene d'Anjou, c. 1450,
and also p. 275 of Vol. I. {Dictionary).)

' A similar attire called the cauchoise has survived in Normandy, in the
Pays de Caux. It is also worn by the Sisters of Charity of St. Vincent
de Paul.

2 It is easy to tell from a matrix, if the lost head-dress were of the
butterfly variety. See, for instance, the brass of Thomas Hampton, 1483,
and Isabella, his wife, at Stoke Charity, Hants, of which the upper part
of the lady's effigy is lost.

(

FEMALE COSTUME 273

Elizabeth, wife of William Culpeper, West
Peckham, Kent.

Joan, wife of Thomas Colte, Roydon, Essex;
kirtle, sideless cote, and mantle; collar of
suns and roses.

Elizabeth, wife of Sir John Say, Knt., Brox-
bourne, Herts.; kirtle, sideless cote, and
heraldic mantle, with her paternal coat
(Cheyny) ; elaborate necklace.

Wife of a Gentleman of the Lacon (?) family,
Harley, Salop ; fur-trimmed gown, the skirt
tucked up under the left arm, thereby expos-
ing the kirtle.

Anna, wife of Thomas Playters, Esq., Sotterley,
Suffolk; fur cuffs not turned back ; broad
necklace.

Isodia, wife of Thomas Selby, East Mailing,
Kent ; similar to the last.

Isabella and lohanna, wives of John Cobleigh,
Chittlehampton, Devon ; fur-trimmed gown.

Two Ladies of the Clopton family. Long Mel-
ford, Suffolk ; heraldic kirtle and mantle.

Two Ladies, Saffron Walden, Essex ; fur-cuffs
not turned back.

Margaret and Margaret, wives of Thomas
Peyton, Esq., Isleham, Cambs. ; the wife on
the dexter side has fur-trimmed gown, em-
broidered throughout; that on the sinister
wears one unornamented.

Isabella, wife of William Cheyne, Blickling,
Norfolk ; fine necklace ; hands held out.

Anne, wife of Robert Herward, Aldborough,
Norfolk ; hands held out.

Elizabeth, wife of Sir Biconyll, Becking-

ton, Somerset ; fur-cuffs not turned back ;
necklace.

Issabella, wife of Sir Robert Strelley, Strelley,
Notts. ; cuffs not turned back ; mantle.

274 FEMALE COSTUME

1487. Anne, wife of John Lambarde, Hi nx worth,

Herts. ; cuffs not turned back.
1490. Margery, wife of Philip Bosard, Gent., Ditching-
ham, Norfolk.

c. 1490. Margaret, wife of Nicholas Gaynesford, Esq.

Carshalton, Surrey (kneeling in mantle) ; the

red colour is still preserved.
c. 1490. Alicia, wife of Geoffry Seyntaubyn, Crowan,

Cornwall ; cuffs not turned back.

A curious treatment of the butterfly head-dress with
decorated caul is found in Norfolk, showing some con-
nection with its predecessor. A good example formerly
existed at Ingham, 1466, representing Katherine and
Elizabeth, wives of Sir Milo^Stapleton. Others are: —

1 47 1. Joan, wife of Sir John Curson, Belaugh, Nor-
folk.

1483. Margaret, wife of Rauf Wylloughby, Esq.,
Raveningham, Norfolk; cuffs not turned
back ; collar of suns and roses ; dragon and
dog at feet. Her husband was " Squier for
Kyng Rychard the thyrd's body."

A modified and much smaller form of butterfly head-
dress is seen in the following examples : —

c. 1480. Marion, wife of Jenkyn Smyth,^ St. Mary, Bury

St. Edmunds ; kneeling,
c. 1480. Wife of a Civilian, Chrishall, Essex; kneeling.
c. 1 480. A Lady (unknown), St. Lawrence, Isle of

Thanet.

1488. Katherine, wife of John Hertcombe, Kingston-

upon-Thames, Surrey; kneeling.
1488. Alice, third wife of Symon Brooke, UfFord,
Suffolk.

c. 1490. Two wives of — Paycock (.?), Great Coggeshall,
Essex.

' But see Farrer's List of Suffolk Brasses, 1903, in which this brass is
said more probably to belong to John Smyth, 1480, and wife Anne.

FEMALE COSTUME 275

c. 1490. Agnes, wife of Edmund Grene, Hunstanton,
Norfolk.

1496. Amia, wife of John BerifFe, Brightlingsea, Essex.

About 1490, soon after Henry VII. came to the
throne, the butterfly head-dress gave way to that known
as the PEDiMENTAL, pyramidal^ kennel^ or diamoKd-sha.pcd
head-dress. This development consisted in the amplifica-
tion of the strip bordering the forehead, which we have
noticed occurring on some of the butterfly head-dresses,^
and in the depression or total abolition of the wing-like
veil. The caul, or "cornei,'' into which the hair was
strained, became a kind of bonnet or cap worn at the back
of the head, and sometimes assuming a crown-like appear-
ance {e.g., 1488, Elizabeth, wife of Edmund Clere, Esq.,
Stokesby, Norfolk, and c. 1490, Elizabeth, wife of William
Berdewell, Esq., West Herling, Norfolk). The band or
frontlet^'' framing the face and falling to the shoulders
(to the shape of which the head-dress owes its designa-
tion), though sometimes represented as plain, is more
often found engraved to represent embroidery and
jewelled work. It was made of rich materials, velvet,^
or sometimes fur, and in some cases may have had borders
of pearls, e.g. : —

c. 1490. Elizabeth, heiress of the Barony of St. Amand,
held by her husband William Beauchamp,
Lord St. Amand, Bromham, Wilts. ; kneel-
ing in kirtle, ermine sideless cote, and mantle.
1499. Anne, wife of Thomas Hevenyngham, Esq.,
Ketteringham, Norfolk; kneeling in mantle
charged with her husband's arms, worn over

I That at Crowan, Cornwall, c. 1490 (Alicia wife of GeofFry Seynt-
aubyn) shows evident signs of transition.

=^ " My Cosin Alice Storke shall have my best bonet and a frontlet of
tawny velvet."— Codicil to will of Isabella, widow of lohn Fitzlames of
Redlynch, Somerset, proved October 23rd, 1527. Proceedings of Somerset
Jrch<eological and N aturalHistory Society, Vol. XXIV. 1878, p. 3 5.

276

FEMALE COSTUME

fur-cufFed gown charged with her own. (One
of her five daughters kneeling behind her
wears a similar head-dress.)
1520. Mary and Grace, wives of William de Grey,
Esq., Merton, Norfolk ; kneeling.

Sometimes more strips or lappets are seen at the side of
the head when represented in profile. A good instance is
at Laycock, Wilts., 1501, Elizabeth, wife of Robert
Baynard, Esq., wearing an heraldic mantle, Baynard
quartering Ludlow. Instances of the retention of the
veil are not uncommon, e.g.^ c. 1500, Elizabeth, wife of
Richard Wakeherst, Ardingley, Sussex, and, 1533, Joan,
wife of Henry Hatche, Faversham, Kent. The Flemish
brass at St. Mary Quay, Ipswich, 1525, shows Emma,
wife of Thomas Pownder, wearing over a kirtle a fur-
lined gown with loose sleeves, and pedimental head-dress
with veil, the peaked form of which is explained by the
netted cauls worn by the six daughters without veils.'

The gown worn with this head-dress is, as a rule, that
with tight-fitting sleeves, fur-cuffs, and border, already
noticed ; but the aperture for the neck is not so large and
is cut square. The kirtle sometimes appears at the neck,
and also at the feet when, as at Ardingly, c. 1500 (just
mentioned), the skirt of the gown is tucked up under the
arm to give an air of greater convenience in walking.
Although usually the mark of the opening in the gown
extends to the waist, in some instances it appears to have
been fastened from neck to feet {e.g.^ Anne, wife of
Thomas Asteley, Esq., 15 12, Blickling, Norfolk). With
this gown was worn a broad ornamental girdle,^ fastened
by various methods, often by a buckle at the side, from
which a long pendent end hangs, sometimes as low as the
ground. At Hadley, Middlesex, 1500, Joan, wife of

I A rosary hangs from the centre of the girdle. Compare with the
Evyngar Flemish brass, 1535, AH Hallows' Barking, London.

*"to my daughter Lady Fitzlames a girdle of gold harneysed with
gold." — Will of Isabella Fitzlames, see note 2, p. 275.

FEMALE COSTUME

277

William Turnour, wears a girdle fastened at the back, and
without pendent end.'' Another form of girdle is fastened
in front, and from the centre ornament, often consisting
of three rosettes, hangs a chain supporting an ornament
or a silver or gold pomander (^pomme d^amhre)^ or perfume
box for scents or disinfectants ^ ; or a receptacle for
pommes chaufferettes^ the equivalent of the modern mujff-
warmer. Rosaries are found in the first half or the
sixteenth century hanging from the girdle, and round the
neck chains or necklaces with pendent crosses. Where
shoes appear they are of the broad, rounded shape worn
by civilians.

Some brasses show a veil instead of the pedimental
head-dress, e.g. : —

1509. Jacquetta, lady of John, Lord Strange, Hilling-
don, Middlesex, sister of Elizabeth Wood-
ville. Queen of Edward IV. ; in mantle.
c. 1 520. A Lady, Dengie, Essex.

1526. Julyen Deryng, gentylwoman, Pluckley, Kent.

1535. Ellyn, wife of Andrew Evyngar, All Hallows'
Barking, London; Flemish (rosary hanging
from the centre of the girdle).

somewhat similar girdle of earlier date (after 1460) is worn by
Elizabeth, wife of William Culpeper, West Peckham, Kent. She wears
the butterfly head-dress.

2 See Archaeological Journal, Vol. XXXI., 1874, P- 337- "Notes on
Pomanders," by R. H. Soden-Smith, M.A., F.S.A. A perfumed orange
sometimes served a similar purpose ; see the beautiful little picture by
Sir John Gilbert, in the Art Gallery, Birmingham, illustrating the passage
in Cavendish's Life of Cardinal Wolsey. "Of the manner of his going
" to Westminster Hall." " He. . .came out of his Privy Chamber about
"eight of the clock, ready apparelled and in red like a Cardinal; his
upper vesture was all of scarlet or else of fine crimson taffeta or crimson
satin engrained, his pillion of scarlet, with a black velvet tippet of sables
^1 about his neck, holding in his hand an orange the meat or substance
"■^ thereof being taken out and filled again with a piece of sponge, with
vinegar and other confections against pestilent airs, the which he most
" commonly held to his nose when he came to the presses, or when he
"was pestered with many suitors." {See pp. 46, 47, Edition, London,
1 901, by Grace H. M. Simpson).

278

FEMALE COSTUME

Examples wearing the pedimental head-dress are very-
numerous, and a long list might be compiled. The
following are some instances' : —

1492. Joyce, wife of Geoffrey Sherard, Stapleford,

Leics. ; cuffs turned over hands.
1494. Margaret, wife of William Catesby, Esq.,
Ashby St. Legers, Northants ; in heraldic
mantle, wearing a cross.
c. 1495. (^«^-) Margery, wife of Sir Hugh Calveley, Knt.,

Ightfield, Salop.
c. 1495. Myrabyll, wife of Edward Sulyard, High Laver,
Essex.

1496. Ela, wife of Henry Spelman, Esq., Narburgh,

Norfolk ; on dexter side ; large rosary.
1496. , wife of John North wode, Milton-next-

Sittingbourne, Kent.
1500. Elizabeth, wife of Richard Conquest, Esq.,

Houghton Conquest, Beds.
1500. Alice, wife of John Tame, Esq., Fairford,

Gloucs.

1502. Elizabeth, wife of Robert Russell, Esq., Stren-
sham, Worcs.

1505. Margaret, wife of John Burgoyn, Impington,

Cambs. ; sideless cote ; heraldic mantle.

1506. Margaret, wife of Sir John Brooke, 5th Baron,

Cobham, Kent ; in mantle.
1508. Anne, wife of John Mohun, Esq., Lanteglos
juxta Fowey, Cornwall ; wearing a tau cross.
1 5 10. Elizabeth, wife of Nicholas Culpeper, Esq.,
Ardingley, Sussex.
c. 1 510. Wife of Man in Armour, .?of Compton family,
in possession of the Surrey Archaeological
Society; said to have come from Netley
Abbey, Hants. ; mantle.

I The lost brass of Agnes, Duchess of Norfolk, 1524, formerly at
Lambeth, was a fine example of heraldic mantle worn with pedimental
head-dress surmounted by coronet.

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FEMALE COSTUME 279

1 514. Ann, wife of Sir John Danvers, Dauntesay,
Wilts.

15 16. Katherine, wife of Sir William Huddesfeld,

Shillingford, Devon; kneeling behind her
husband, in heraldic mantle charged with
Courtenay (daughter of Sir Philip Courtenay,
of Powderham).

15 1 7. Katherine, wife of Anthony Hansart, March,

Cambs. ; kneeling ; heraldic mantle.

151 8. Elizabeth, daughter of Sir William Knevet,

Eastington, Gloucs. ; in heraldic mantle.

15 19. Jane, wife of Sir John Iwarby, Ewell, Surrey;

in heraldic mantle.

1524. Margaret, wife of Henry Everard, Esq., Den-

stone, Suffolk ; head on cushion ; heraldic
mantle.

1525. Joyce, wife of Reynold Pekham, Wrotham,

Kent ; in heraldic mantle.

1526. Ehzabeth, wife of John Shelley, Esq., Clapham,

Sussex; in heraldic mantle, Shelley impaling
Michelgrove ; round neck the partlet (see
below).

1 527. Ellen, wife of Sir Peter Legh, Winwick, Lanes. ;

ermined sideless cote girdled; heraldic mantle ;
wearing large Tau cross.

1528. Margaret, wife of William Bulkeley, Esq.,

Sefton, Lanes. ; large Tau cross.
c. 1528. The four wives of Sir Richard FitzLewes, In-
grave, Essex,' wearing ermined sideless cotes
like Lady Legh's, and large Tau crosses. The
first (probably Alice Harlestone), the third
(Elizabeth Sheldon), and the fourth (Jane
Hornby), wear heraldic mantles. The mantle
of the second is not heraldic.

^Ascribed by Haines to John FitzLewis and four wives, c. 1500, but
see " FitzLewes of West Horndon, and the brasses at Ingrave," by Rev.
H, L. Elliot, M.A., Essex Archeeological Society Transactions, New Series,
Vol VI., 1898, p. 28. 6 ^

280

FEMALE COSTUME

c. 1535 (eng.) Lady Katherine Howard {d. 1452), Stoke-
by-Nayland, Suffolk ; ermine-trimmed side-
less cote and heraldic mantle charged with
Howard arms. Wife of Sir Thomas Howard,
K.G., created in 1483 Duke of Norfolk.
1 540. Margaret, wife of John Semys, St. John Baptist,
Gloucester.

1547. Elizabeth, wife of Richard Covert, Esq., Slaug-
ham, Sussex.

The next change is found about 1525, when the tight
sleeves of the gown are superseded by wide sleeves, richly
furred, ending near the elbows. On the forearms full
sleeves of fine materials, embroidered or slashed, are
worn, probably attached to an undergarment, and confined
at the wrists, where frills are inserted, bearing some
resemblance to a bishop's lawn-sleeves. At the neck is
worn the partlet, seen by the opening of the gown, and
usually of fine linen pleated and gathered in round the
neck. The pedimental head-dress, though its older
variety is frequently found worn with the above dress,
now assumes the form with which we are familiar in
Holbein's portraits of the Queens and Court Ladies of
Henry VIIL' The ends of the front lappets are turned
up, no longer falling on the shoulders as hitherto. The
manner of fastening them is well shown on the stone
effigy of a lady of the Arden family at Aston, Warwick-
shire (engraved by Hollis).

^ See Bartolozzi's engravings in Imitations of original Drawings by
Hans Holbein in the Collection of His Majesty, for the Portraits of illustrious
persons of the Court of Henry VIII., with Biographical Tracts. Published
by John Chamberlaine, Keeper of the King's Drawings and Medals, and
F.S.A., London, 1792, also Portraits of Illustrious Personages of Great
Britain engraved from authentic Pictures in the Galleries of the Nobility and
the Public Collections of the Country, with biographical and historical memoirs
of their lives and actions, by Edmund Lodge, Esq., F.S.A., London :
Printed for Harding and Lepard, 1835, 12 vols, (the last 5 vols, of later
period than that covered by this book).

THE LADY KATHERINE HOWARD,
d. 1452, engraved c. 1535,
Stoke-by-Navland, Suffolk.

C.U.]

FEMALE COSTUME 281

The following examples illustrate this costume : —

1 527. Isabell, wife of Walter Curzon, Esq., Waterpery,
Oxon. (palimpsest).

^.1^30.. , wife of Hutton, Dry Drayton,

Cambs.

c. 1530. A Lady, Messing, Essex; with rosary.

1533. Anne, wife of Francis Yonge, Esq., Edgmond,

Shropshire ; gown tucked up in front ; rosary

and pomander.
1535. Catherine, wife of Lord William Howard, St.

Mary, Lambeth, Surrey ; heraldic mantle.

1537. Elizabeth, Countess of Oxford, Wivenhoe,

Essex, second wife of John de Vere, Earl of
Oxford, widow of William Viscount Beau-
mont, in ermined sideless cote and heraldic
mantle (Scrope quartering Tiptoft) ; the head-
dress surmounted by a coronet ; chains round
the neck ; a pendent cross.

1538. Mawde, wife of Sir Anthony Fitzherbert, Nor-

bury, Derbyshire ; in fur-cuffed gown, heraldic
mantle and wimple. One of her daughters
wears an heraldic mantle.

1539. Ann, wife of Sir John Danvers, Dauntsey,

Wilts. ; kneeling, on quadrangular plate ;
gown open in front.
c. 1 540. Wife of a Man in Armour, Winestead, York-
shire ; over-gown short, wide sleeves lost ;
large rosary ; at feet a greyhound.

1 541. Agnes, wife of Thomas Andrewes, Esq., Char-

welton, Northants.

1542. Elizabeth, wife of Thomas Fromond, Esq.,

Cheam, Surrey ; kneeling.

1543. Elizabeth, wife of Geo. Perepoynt, Esq., West

Mailing, Kent.
1545- The Lady Elizabeth and Katherine, wives of
Sir John Arundell, St. Columb Major, Corn-
wall ; heads on cushions.

282

FEMALE COSTUME

Elizabeth, wife of Sir John Spelman, Narburgh,

Norfolk; heraldic mantle.
Katheryn, wife of Robert Barfott, Lambourne,

Essex ; in fur-cuffed gown.
Elizabeth, wife of Edward Chichester, Esq.,

Braunton, Devon ; kneeling.
Jane, wife of Peter Coryton, St. Mellion, Corn-
wall ; gown open in front.
Anne, wife of Richard Fermer, Esq., Easton

Neston, Northants.
Alice, wife of Nicholas Saunder, Esq., Charl-
wood, Surrey ; kneeling. Daughters similar
with the exception that their head-dress is the
Paris head (see below).
Ciselye, wife of Edward Goodman, Ruthyn,
Denbighshire (daughters wearing the * Paris
head ').

Brasses of ladies by provincial artists, especially in the
eastern counties, exhibit various peculiarities of treatment,
not observable in the average examples. The gowns are
frequently pinned up at the sides or turned up in front.
Some Norfolk examples have a narrow strip of fur down
the centre of the gown from neck to feet. Rosaries are
frequent, and large reticules are found. When the
pomander is added, the effect of the three cannot fail to
appear somewhat clumsy. A sash often takes the place
of the girdle, and a small cape is sometimes worn on the
shoulders. The following examples will suffice : —

c. 1500. Wife of a Man in Armour (.? Corbet), Assing-
ton, Suffolk.

1 5 14. Margaret, widow of — Pettwode, St. Clement's,
Norwich.

1520. Margaret, wife of Francis Mundeford, Esq.,
Feltwell, Norfolk.
c. 1520. Jane and Thomasine, wives of John Golding-
ham, Belstead, Suffolk.

1545-
1546.

1548.

1551.

1552.

1553-
1560.

SIR JOHN BASSET AND WIVES HONOR AND ANN,

c. 1540,
Atiierington, Devon.

C,B.]

/

FEMALE COSTUME 283

1 5 2 1 . Matilda, wife of William Cheswryght, Fordham,
Cambs.

1524. Lettys, wife of John Terri, St. John Madder-

market, Norwich.

1525. Elizabeth, wife of John Marsham, St. John

Maddermarket, Norwich.

1526. Mary, wife of Roger Appleton, Little Walding-

field, Suffolk.

1528. Elizabeth, wife of Edward Why te, Esq., Shotes-
ham St. Mary, Norfolk.
c. 1530. A Lady of the Drury family, Denstone, Suffolk.
c. 1530. Anne, wife of Thomas Underbill, Great Thur-

low, Suffolk.
c. 1530. Wife of a Civilian, Lakenheath, Suffolk.

1532. Sabina, wife of Robert Goodwyn, Necton, Nor-
folk.

1 55 1. Anne, wife of George Duke, Esq., Frenze,
Norfolk.

1558. Elizabeth, wife of Robert Rugge, St. John
Maddermarket, Norwich.

The following examples from Essex show similar
peculiarities, and were probably executed by a school of
engravers centred at Cambridge. A kind tam-o'-shanter
cap appears, and a short cape on the shoulders : —

c. 1530. Wife of a Civilian, Hempstead.

c, 1530. Two Wives of a Civilian, Elmdon.

c. 1530. Wife of a Civihan, Saffron Walden.

1532. Agnes, wife of William Holden, Great Chester-
ford.

1533- Joan, wife of John Paycock, Great Coggeshall.

1534- Agnes, wife of John Cracherood, Toppesfield.

In somewhat similar attire, but wearing an early form
of * Paris head,' ' are : —

I Compare with a Holbein drawing of Queen Anne Boleyn among
Chamberlaine's Portraits, 1792, engraved by F. Bartolozzi. (For title,
see p. 280.)

284

FEMALE COSTUME

1557. Malyn, wife of Thomas Harte, Lydd, Kent.
1560. Elizabeth, wife of Robert Stokys, Eton College,
Bucks.

The reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and the first part of
that of Elizabeth, produced but few changes in ladies'
costume. Moreover, the accessibility of contemporary
portraits, or of engravings of them, tends to decrease the
value of evidence, important in earlier periods, which is
afforded by brasses. The chief alteration is in the head-
dress, the pedimental attire disappearing, and being super-
seded by the Paris Head, or French Hood,' popularly
known as the Mary Queen of Scots cap or bonnet.^ This
consisted of a close-fitting cap, stiffened by wires, and often
depressed in the centre. A kind of lappet or jewelled fillet
formed a border in front, concealing the ears ; a veil fell
behind. The hair appears on the forehead, parted down
the centre. The gown^ worn is opened in front below
the waist, exposing the petticoat or under-gown, which
soon became elaborately embroidered. The opening is
partly closed by means of bows. On the arms appear the
sleeves of the under-gown, usually striped. The over-
gown has puffed sleeves ending just below the shoulders,
or hanging down like the filse sleeves of civilians {e.g.,

1553, Alice, wife of Sir William Coke, Milton, Cambs. ;

1554, Katherine, wife of Christopher Lytkot, Esq.,

^ But see Planche, sub Head-dress and Hood.

*A possible connecting link between the two styles of coiffure may be
seen at Heme, Kent, 1539, Elizabeth, wife of Sir John Fyneux.

3 This gown is sometimes found worn with the old-fashioned pedi-
mental head-dress, e.g., 1548, Jane and Elizabeth, wives of Sir William
Molyneux, Sefton, Lanes, (low-necked gowns; no partlets), and c. 1556,
Margaret, wife of William Disney, Esq., Norton Disney, Lines. Again,
the gown described as worn with the later form of pedimental head-
dress is sometimes accompanied by the Paris head; e.g., I557> Ursula,
wife of Sir Edmund Knyghtley, Fawsley, Northants.

FEMALE COSTUME 285

Swallowfield, Berks.'). The partlet fits the neck closely,
and is surmounted by frills, to develop into the well-
known Elizabethan rufF. In many cases, from the waist
an ornament hangs, or a book (e.g., 1573, Isabel, wife of
George Arundell, Esq., Mawgan-in-Pyder, Cornwall), or
possibly a mirror (1577, Ann, wife of Peter Rede, Esq.,
St. Margaret's, Norwich). About 1570, the under-gown
or petticoat is embroidered, usually in diaper patterns,
but occasionally with arabesques, as later in Queen Eliza-
beth's reign. The over-gown is usually sleeveless, with
a stiff collar. The sleeves of the under-garment are
striped or slit down and refastened by bows.^ At the
wrists are frills. The shoes, when seen, are of the small,
round-toed type. A few instances of ladies wearing
heraldic mantles are found, e.g. : —

1546/7. EHzabeth, wife of Sir Ralph Verney, daughter
of Edmund, Lord Bray, Aldbury, Herts. ; dexter
Verney, sinister Bray. Her husband wears a
tabard.

1552. Brydgett and Elizabeth, wives of Sir Humfrey
Style, Beckenham, Kent ; kneeling.

1555. Lady Jane Guyldeford, Duchess of Northumber-
land, St. Luke's, Chelsea ; kneeling ; widow of
John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland.

An instance is known of a lady represented on a brass
wearing an heraldic tabard : —

1558. Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Gorynge, Burton,

' Illustrated in Haines, p. ccxlv.

2" Some be of the new fashion, some of the olde, some of this fashion,
" and some of that, some with sleeves hanging down to their skirts, trayl-
" ing on the ground, and cast over their shoulders, like Cowtayles.
" Some have sleeves much shorter cut up the arme, and pointed with silk
" ribons, very gallantly tyed with true-looves knottes, for so they call
"them." — Phillip Stuhhes' Jnafomie of Ji>uses, 1583 (edited by Frederick
J. Furnivall for the New Shakspere Society, 1877-9).

286

FEMALE COSTUME

Sussex; kneeling; arms, Gorynge and Covert
impaled.^

Brasses showing the costume of this time are of frequent
occurrence. The following selection may be enlarged at
pleasure : —

1545. Anne, wife of Gregory Lovell, Esq., Harlington,
Middlesex.

1554. Joan, wife of Edward Shelley, Esq., Warming-
hurst, Sussex (showing traces of pedimental
head-dress).

1558. Mary, wife of Vyncent Boys, Gent, Good-

nestone, Kent.

1559. Jane, wife of John Corbet, Esq., Sprowston,

Norfolk ; kneeling.
c. 1560. Martha, wife of Richard Butler, Esq., North
Mimms, Herts.
1 56 1. Mary and Juliana, wives of Sir John Arundell,

of Trerice, Stratton, Cornwall.
1 561. Margaret, wife of John Eyer, Esq., Narburgh,
Norfolk ; kneeling.
1562/3. Alice, wife of William Heron, Esq., Croydon,
Surrey.

1563. Margaret, wife of Sir William Dansell, Becken-
ham, Kent.

1567. The three wives of Thomas Noke, Esq., Yeoman
of the Crown, Shottesbrooke, Berks.

1570. Anne, wife of John Webbe, St. Thomas', Salis-
bury.

1 570. Anne and Anne, wives of Sir Clement Heigham,

Knt., Barrow, Suffolk ; kneeling.

157 1. Jane, wife of Henry Bradbury, Gent., Little-

bury, Essex.

^ Zee illustration, Vol. II., Transactions of the Monumental Brass Society y
p. 329, and in Jrckceological Journal, Vol. LVII., 1900, in paper, "Mis-
cellanea Heraldica," by J. Lewis Andre, F.S.A., pp. 301-24, who men-
tions a kneeling instance, once existing in glass at St. Michael Bassishaw,
London, reproduced by Weever in his Funerall Monuments, p. 698, as
Alice {d. 1579), wife of Adrian d'Ewes.

i^i^a vx\ja^fcm\Mht{£Ziw^ ^atirafuturrfamtr.

ALICE, LADY NORTON, 1580,
Newington, Kent.

C.B.]

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MARY, WIFE OF ANTHONY HUDDLESTON, ESQ., 1581,
Great Haseley, Oxon.

C.B.]

FEMALE COSTUME 287

1 57 1. Avice, wife of Thomas Tyndall, Thornbury,

Gloucs.

1 572. Jane, wife of Raphe Jenyns, Esq., Churchill,

Somerset.

1573. Margaret, wife of Sir William Harper, St. Paul's,

Bedford.

1 574. The two wives of Richard Atkinson, St. Peter-

in-the-East, Oxford. The head-dress has a

three-cornered appearance.'
1 574. Mary, wife of Richard Pay ton, Isleham, Cambs.
1577. Margaret, wife of Humfrey Clarke, Kingsnorth,

Kent.

1 577. Dorothe, wife of Sir Lawrence Taylare, Ewell,

Surrey.

1578. Thomasine, third wife of William Play ters, Esq.,

Sotterley, Suffolk.
1578. Agnes, wife of Sir Edward Baynton, Bromham,
Wilts. ; kneeling.

1580. Lady Norton, wife of John Cobham, Esq.,

widow of Sir John Norton, of Northwood,
Kent, Newington, Kent.
c. 1580. Nele and Jane, wives of Richard Disney, Norton
Disney, Lines, (half effigies).

1 58 1. Wilmota, wife of George Cary, Tor Mohun,

Devon.

1 58 1. Mary, wife of Anthony Huddleston, Esq.,

Great Haseley, Oxon.

1582. Mistress Ann Sackville, widow, Willingale Doe,

Essex.

1587. Jane, wife of Michael Fraunces, Esq., St.
Martin's, Canterbury.

During the latter part of the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
about 1590, some changes were introduced which con-
tinued till the reign of Charles L The Paris head has the

^ As has that of Joane, second wife of Valontyne Edvarod, Gent., St.
Nicholas', Thanet, Kent, 1574.

288

FEMALE COSTUME

lappet, hitherto falling behind, turned up over the top of
the head. This flap may have been the shadoe or bongrace
used to protect the head from the sun. This head-dress
is frequently surmounted by a hood (a precursor of the
calash (caleche) and cardinal) of ample proportions, falling
like a cape on the shoulders, and sometimes prolonged to
the ground behind. The hair is brushed up and back in
the manner familiar to us in portraits of Queen Elizabeth,
and a jewel is often fastened in front. The circular ruflF
presents a stiff^er and more formal appearance. The
outer-gown is usually plain and open in front to show
a finely embroidered under-gown or petticoat. The
bodice is conspicuous for its peaked or pointed stomacher,
often embroidered, and the skirt is distended by means of
2l farthingale (vardingale, Fr. vertugale)^ the ancestor of the
eighteenth-century hoop-petticoat and of the nineteenth-
century crinoline. Sometimes the flounces at the top of
the skirt assumed a wheel shape (whence the wheel-
farthingale). Loose lappets or " wings " were worn,
flowing from the shoulders. The large ruff^,' the special
adornment of Queen Elizabeth, which was held up by a
framework of wires, called a supportasse or underpropper^ is
seen on a few brasses, e.g. (wearing wheel-farthingales) : —

c. 1 600. Mary, wife of Edward Leventhorp, Esq., Saw-

bridgeworth, Herts.
1 60 1. Anne, first wife of GyflFord Longe, Gent.,

Bradford-on-Avon, Wilts.
1 60 1. RadcHfi^, wife of S-^ Thomas Wingfeld, Easton,

Suffolk.

1 6 14. Margaret, wife of Sir George Chute. Marden,
Herefordshire, whose hair is dressed in a
wonderful manner, having nine peaks above

^ Philip Stubbes is severe on " these cartwheeles of the divels charet
" of pride," and on the unfortunate medium of their stiffness, "a certaine
" kinde of liquide matter which they call Starch, wherin the devill hath
" willed them to wash and dive his ruffes wel, which, when they be dr}-,
" will then stand stiffe and inflexible about their necks."

FEMALE COSTUME 289

the head, possibly upheld by a comb. The
effigy of her little daughter Anne is similar.'

Hats frequently occur, worn by ladies, and are sup-
posed to indicate Puritanical tendencies. They usually
have broad brims and high, wreathed crowns, somewhat of
the form associated with Welsh peasant women : that of
Susan, wife of John Selwyn, Walton-on-Thames, Surrey,
1587, approximates to the shape of the modern felt hat
(vulgo " bowler "). The shoes worn are small, with thick
soles. The effigies are often represented standing on low,
circular pedestals.

The following are good examples : —

1590. Elizabeth and Anne, wives of William Death,

Gent., Dartford, Kent ; in hats.

1 59 1. Alice, wife of John Rashleigh, Fowey, Cornwall.
1594. Julian, wife of John Clippesby, Esq., Clippesby,

Norfolk.

1596. Mary, wife of Robert Rust, Necton, Norfolk.
1598. Dame Mary, widow of Henry Fortescue, Esq.,

Faulkbourne, Essex.
1600. Elizabeth, wife of Edward Leventhorp, Esq.,

Sawbridgeworth, Herts.

1602. Mercy, wife of Christopher Septvans, alias Har-

flete, Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent.

1 603. Joan, wife of Thomas Buriton, Streatley, Berks. ;

hood.

1604. Frances, wife of Richard Frankelin, Latton,

Essex.

' Compare head-dress of " Catherine, Duchess du Bar, Sister of
Henry IV., Died 1604." Planche, General History, p. 248. It is pos-
sible that this adornment may represent lace stiffened to form a half-hoop
above the hair. See the portrait of Maria Schurmans, wife of Dirck
Alewyn Dirckz, by Paul Moreelse (1571-1638, pupil of Mierevelt), en-
graved in the Magazine of Art, November, 1893, p. 23, in a description
of the old masters in the collection of Mr. Joseph Ruston, of Monks
Manor, Lincoln, by Claude Phillips.

U

29C FEMALE COSTUME

1605. Aphra, wife of Henry Hawkins, Gent., Ford-

wich, Kent.

1606. Barbara, wife of Roger Eliot, rector, Sutton

Coldfield, Warwickshire ; hood.

1 606. Margaret, wife of Myles Dodding, Esq., Ulver-

stone. Lanes.

1607. Margaret, wife of Arthur Chewt, Ellough,

Suffolk ; an extraordinary hood raised over
the head.

1 607. Elizabeth, wife of Jacob Verzelini, Esq., Downe,
Kent ; fine. The over-gown has an edging of
embroidery.

1 609. Sybilla and Isabella, wives of Alban Butler, Esq.,

Aston-le- Walls, Northants ; kneeling.

1 610. Sessely, wife of Arthur Page, Gent, Bray,

Berks. ; kneeling ; hat.
1 6 10. Barbara, wife of John Plumleigh, Dartmouth

S. Petrock, Devon ; hood.
1 6 10. Hester, wife of Francis Neve, Ham, Essex;

hat.

1 6 10. Dorcas, wife of Thomas Musgrave, Esq., Cres-

sing, Essex; sitting; hood.

1 6 1 1 . Elizabeth, wife of John Carewe, Esq., Haccombe,

Devon.

1 615. Elizabeth, wife of Henry Crispe, Wrotham,
Kent ; hood.

1615. Frances, wife of James Hobart, Esq., Loddon,

Norfolk.

1 61 6. Mary, wife of Richard Hatton, Long Ditton,

Surrey; large hood.
1 61 8. Joan, wife of Sir Robert Brooke, Yoxford,

Suffolk (daughter of Sir Humphrey Weld).
1 61 8. Dorothie, widow of Nicholas Wadham, Esq.,

Ilminster, Somerset.
c. 1620. Margaret, wife of Nicholas Poulett, Esq.,

Minety, Wilts. ; kneeling.
1624. Margaret, wife of Richard Gadburye, Gent.,

Eyworth, Beds.

,KE w|r bWyeet^

APHRA, WIFE OF HENRY HAWKINS, 1605,
FoRDwiCH, Kent.

C.B.]

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C I).]

FEMALE COSTUME

291

Soon after the accession of Charles I. changes appeared,
gradually introducing that most elegant style, familiar to
us in the portraits of Vandyke, by whose name it is fre-
quently called. For, though ruff and farthingale are still
found, the latter becomes exceptional, whilst the former is
frequently superseded by hands ^ either falling {falls) or
upright, the broad, lace-trimmed collars or fichus, so con-
spicuous in contemporary portraits. Brasses, with but
few exceptions, among which the Filmer monument at
East Sutton holds a foremost place,^ do not reproduce the
dress of the times in a satisfactory manner, partly owing
to the decay of the art, which became practically extinct
before the Restoration, and partly to the increasing diffi-
culty of portraying graceful gowns in so stubborn a
medium. The plates of Hollar^ form a complete guide
to the female fashions of Charles' reign. The hair is
allowed to escape in ringlets from beneath the Paris head
or embroidered cap, over which the kerchief, hood (or
calash) is still worn, sometimes of great length {e.g., dated
1 6 14, Mary and Roesia, wives of Richard Barttelot, Esq.,
Stopham, Sussex). Higher waists are worn, and the
bodice or doublet often has a short vandyked skirt {e.g.,
1630, Mary, wife of John Kent, Esq., St. John's, Devizes,
Wilts.). The sleeves are very full, striped, and often tied
in at the elbows by a bow, which form was called a virago
{e.g., 1632, Dorothy, wife of Sir Francis Mannock, Bart.,
Stoke-by-Nayland, Suffolk, and the daughters of Sir
Edward and Lady Filmer). Petticoats beautifully em-

^ Whence the term " band-box."

2 Reproduced by Waller ; also in Vol. I., Portfolio of Monumental Brass
Society, and in Archceologia Cantiana, Vol. XXV., 1902, p. Ivii.

3 " Ornatus muliebris Anglicanus, or the severall habits of English Women
"■from the Nobilitie to the Contry woman as they are in these times 1 640.
"Printed and sold by Rob'. Sayer, Print & Map-Seller, No. 53, Fleet
" Street. Wenceslaus Hollar, Bohemus, fecit. Londini, A°. 1640.

In 1643 was issued another set dealing with the costumes of Europe.
''Theatru Mulierum sive Varietas atque Differentia Habituum Fceminci
" Sexus diversQvum Europce Nationum hodiemo tempore vulgo in usu''

292

FEMALE COSTUME

broidered are at Ardingley, Sussex, and Stoke-by-Nayland,
Suffolk, etc. The shoes have high heels, and sometimes
rosettes (e-g-i 1638, Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas
Rotton, Meriden, Warwickshire). A handkerchief is
held by Jane Septvans, 1642, Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent.
A feather fan hangs at the side of Sarah, wife of John Pen,
Esq., 1 641, Penn, Bucks. Rich necklaces are worn.
Anne, wife of Eustace Bedingfeild, Esq., 1641, Darsham,
Suffolk, wears a large, plain gown, similar to a modern
masculine great-coat. She holds a handkerchief in her
left hand.

Some other examples of brasses of this period are: —

1625. The Lady Elizabeth, wife of Sir Arthur Gorges,

Chelsea, Middlesex ; kneeling.

1626. Jane, wife of John Cradock, Gent., Ightham,

Kent ; high-crowned hat.
1633. Ann, wife of John Arundel, Esq., S. Columb

Major, Cornwall.
1633. Mrs. Ann Kenwellmersh, Henfield, Sussex.
1633. Frances, wife of Sir Thomas Hord, Bampton,

Oxon.

1633. Elizabeth, wife of Sir Edward Culpeper, Arding-

ley, Sussex.

1634. Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Sir Wilham and

Jane Culpeper (aged seven), Ardingley, Sussex.

1635. Elizabeth, wife of John Blighe, Finchampstead,

Berks.

1 635 {eng.) The Lady Ann, wife of Sir John Arundel,
Knt., S. Columb Major, Cornwall.

1636. Vahan and Elizabeth, wives of Richard Bugges,

Esq., Harlow, Essex.

1 636. Ann, wife of Henry Gibbes, St. James', Bristol ;
kneeling; hat.

1638. Elizabeth, wife of Sir Edward Filmer, Knt., East
Sutton, Kent ; in large ruff ; her nine daugh-
ters wearing falling collars.

FEMALE COSTUME 293

1640. Sarah and Eleanor, wives of George Coles, St.

Sepulchre's, Northampton ; in hats.
1642. Jane, wife of Walter Septvans, alias Harflete,

Esq., Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent.
1647. Grace, wife of John Morewood, Bradfield, W.

Yorks. ; high-crowned hat.
1650. Elizabeth, wife of Ralph Assheton, Esq., Mid-

dleton, Lanes.

1655. Elizabeth, wife of Adam Beaumont, Esq., Kirk-

heaton, W. Yorks. ; holding infant.

1656. Ann, wife of Thomas Carew, Esq., Haccombe,

Devon ; kneeling.

Two late examples of brasses, both in Kent, must be
noticed : —

1. Three ladies of the Toke family, c. 1680, Great Chart,

kneeling on cushions and holding books and flowers,
show the low-necked, short-sleeved dress of the
ladies of Charles IL's reign, so well pictured by
Lely and Kneller, of which Planch^ writes: "a
studied negligence, an elegant ddshabille, is the pre-
vailing character."' The hair falls in curls on the
neck.

2. Philadelphia, wife of Benjamin Greenwood, Esq., 1747,

St. Mary Cray, gives a very poor idea of the costume
of the eighteenth century : — a low-necked, tight-
sleeved bodice, with neck-band above, open skirt
with petticoat beneath, completed by an immense
hood or veil (possibly a kind of cardinal), framing
the head and figure.

The costume of widows found throughout the fifteenth,
is not so frequently met with in the sixteenth century.
Instances of widows wearing the ordinary dress of their

^History of British Costume, 3rd edition, 1874, p. 332.

294 FEMALE COSTUME

period are not uncommon/ The following show the
traditional costume already described {see p. 264) : —

15 1 2. Elizabeth, widow of Henry Porte, Etwall,
Derbyshire.

1 5 19. Dame Joan, widow of John Braham, Esq.,

Frenze, Norfolk {see p. 98).
1529. Joan, wife of John Cooke, St. Mary de Crypt,

Gloucester.

1536. Dame Alice Beryff, Brightlingsea, Essex; on
bracket with daughter Margaret.

1540. Dame Susan Kyngeston, "vowess," Shalston,
Bucks., widow of John Kyngeston, of Child-
rey, Berks, {see p. 98).

We have mentioned (p. 245) a very simple method of
wearing the hair long and flowing, either completely un-
adorned, or encircled by a plain or jewelled fillet or by
a chaplet of flowers. This is usually found in the case of
young unmarried ladies, the wearing of a garland being
supposed to be indicative of death in virginity.^ Examples
are uncommon. The following should be noted : —

^e.g., 1 521. Jane, second wife of John Blen'haysett, Esq., Frenze,
Norfolk.

1582. Mistress Ann Sackville, widow, Willingale Doe, Essex.
1598. Dame Mary, widow of Henry Fortescue, Esq., Faulk-
bourne, Essex (quoted, p. 289).

Sometimes a veil alone would seem to denote the widowed state, as
in more modern times : —

1587. Margery, wife of Richard Belassis, Houghton-le-Spring,

Durham, kneeling.
1 6 14. Julian, widow of — Osborne, Clyst St. George, Devon,
kneeling and wearing a high-crowned hat.

2 Maiden Garlands are found hung up in some churches, as memorials
of the deceased ; for example, at Minsterley, Shropshire, an illustration
of which will be found, p. 237, of Nooks and Corners of Shropshire, by
H. Thornhill Timmins, F.R.G.S. London: Elliot Stock, 1899. This
practice seems to have been popular in Derbyshire, as at Ashover (see
Collectanea Topographica et Genealogica, Vol. II., 1835, p. 99, in article
entitled, " Notices of Dethick and Ashover, co. Derby, and the families

Here i^^bvried the sooy of "MAiRy Bkooi^e^

ALIAS COBBVM WIDDO VNTO EDW\RD BROOKR.
ALIAS COBBVM EsqVIER.WHOE DEPARTED THIS
LIFE THE XXif"w^ OF Iviy An DnI. 16^00^

MARY, WIDOW OF EDWARD BROOKE, ESQ., 1600,
Newington, Kent.

FEMALE COSTUME 295

c. 1360. Margaret Brocas, Sherborne St. John, Hants;
wearing garland or jewelled fillet.
1360. Johane Plessi, Quainton, Bucks.
c. 1 4 CO. A Maiden Lady, Lingfield, Surrey; with fillet.
1455. Isabel, daughter of Robert Manfeld, Taplow,
Bucks.

1458. Cecilie, sister to GeofiFrey Boleyn, Esq., Blick-
ling, Norfolk (aged 50).
c. 1470. A Maiden Lady, Bletchingley, Surrey.
1479. Anna, daughter of William Boleyn, Esq., Blick-
ling, Norfolk (aged three). Her hair appears
to be short.

1479. Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Echyngham,
and Agnes, , daughter of Robert Oxenbrigg,
Etchingham, Sussex. The former has a
narrow fillet ; the latter wears the hair plaited
on the top of the head,
f. 1480. A Lady, Felbrigg, Norfolk.'

1493. Ursula, only daughter of Luke Caspar, Low
Leyton, Essex.

of Dethlck and Babington"). Additional information may be found in
the Gentleman's Magazine, May, 1803, p. 403 (Swanscombe, Kent) ;
Jntiquarian Repertory, Vol. IV., 1 809, pp. 663-4 '■> Brand's Popular Antiqui-
ties of Great Britain, Vol. II., 1870, p. 220. ^ee also the Journal of the
British Archaolo^cal Association, Vol. XXXI., 1 875, p. 190, " On Funeral
Garlands," by H. S. Cuming, F.S.A. Scot., and N.S, Vol. VI., 1900,
p. 54, " Derbyshire Funeral Garlands," by T. N. Brushfield, Esq., M.D.,
F.S.A. ; The Reliquary, Vol. I., 1860-1, pp. 5-1 1, " On Funeral Garlands,"
by Llewellynn Jewitt, F.S.A., and Vol. XXL, 1 880-1, an additional note
on "Virgin Grants" or Garlands, by the same, p. 145 ; Vol. XXVI.,
1885-6, p. 239, "Funeral Garlands at Astley Abbots, Shropshire";
Walford's Antiquary, Vol. XII., July to December, 1887, p. i6, " Funeral
Garlands," by J. Potter Briscoe, F.R.H.S. ; The Antiquary; a Fortnightly
Medium of Intercommunication for ArcheeologLsts, etc.. Vol. III., p. 178, 207,
by J. Perry ; Wiltshire Notes and Queries, Vol. IV., 1904, p. 5 19, " Funeral
Garlands, an instance at Stockton, Wilts." Transactions of the Shropshire
Archaeological and Natural History Society, 2nd series. Vol. VII., 1895,
p. 147, mentions maiden garlands formerly at Shrawardine.

' Compare two daughters on brass of Tomesina, wife of William
Tendryng, Esq., 1485, Yoxford, Suffolk.

296

FEMALE COSTUME

1508. Edith and Elizabeth, daughters of John Wylde,
Esq., Barnes, Surrey ; " dyed virgyns," with
fillets.

1522. Elisabeth, daughter of George Fitz-William,

Esq., Mablethorpe, Lines.
1524. Constance, " meyden doughter," of John Ber-

ners,Esq., Writtle, Essex; wearing pedimental

frontlet.

1536. Margaret, daughter of Dame Alice BeryfF,
Brightlingsea, Essex; on bracket with her
mother.

1545. Amphillis, daughter of Sir Edmund Peckham,
Denham, Bucks. ; with pedimental frontlet.

1547. Wenefride Newport, Greystoke, Cumberland;
in ' Paris head,'

1626. Grace Latham, "died a mayde," Upminster,
Essex (aged 22) ; hair brushed back.

At Maids' Moreton, Bucks., in 1890, a brass was placed
in the matrix of the lost original commemorating two
maids, daughters of Thomas Pever, died c. 1480, repre-
senting them in kirtle and mantle with long hair and
wreaths of roses.

Occasionally married ladies are represented wearing
their hair long. The four examples following have the
fillet : —

c. 1450. Isabel, wife of Sir Gervase Clifton, widow of
William Scott, Esq., Brabourne, Kent.
1460. Douce, wife of Sir Robert del Bothe, Wilmslow,
Cheshire.

1479. Jo^^) wife of Sir Robert RatclifFe, widow of
Humphrey Bourchier (Lord Cromwell), Tat-
tershall, Lines.
c. 1480. Joan, wife of Nicholas Kniveton, Esq., Muggin-
ton, Derbyshire.

The palimpsest fragments of the brass of Elizabeth St.
John, second wife of William, Lord Zouch, 1447, Okeover,

ELIZABETH ECHYNGHAM AND AGNES OXENBRIGG, 1480,

Etchingham, Sussex.

C.Ii.]

FEMALE COSTUME

297

Staffs., show her in long hair, probably filleted, on the
reverse of the Oker children.

Some peculiarities in head-dresses of simple form of
the fifteenth century should be mentioned. They appear
on effigies of daughters, as follows : —

The hair done in plaits at the sides above the ears, and
bound by a fillet : —

141 6. The twelve daughters, kneeling, on brass of
Thomas and Elena Stokes, Ashby St. Legers,
Northants.

1420. A daughter of Joan Waltham, Waltham, Lines,
(half effigy).

A kind of flat cap surmounting the hair, which is
gathered up at the sides of the face : —

14 1 4. Philippa Carreu, with her six sisters, Beddington,
Surrey.

1429. Seven daughters of Roger and Agnes Thornton,
Ail Saints, Newcastle-on-Tyne.

A fillet having a rolled appearance,' slightly raised at
the sides : —

H33- Four daughters on the brass of Joan, Lady de

Cobham, Cobham, Kent.
c. 1440. The daughters of Robert and Margaret Pagge,

Cirencester, Gloucs.
c. 1440. Anna, Bridgett and Susanna, daughters of John

and Elizabeth Arderne, Leigh, Surrey.
c. 1440-50. Susanna, daughter of the same, Leigh, Surrey.

At Long Melford, Suffolk, a lady of the Clopton
family, c. 1420, wears a broad band or cap, ornamented

' A beautiful example of this head-dress, showing it in the form of a
broad jewelled roll or fillet surrounding the head but exposing the hair
in the centre, is given in Hefncr-Alteneck's Trachten des christlichen
Mlttelalters, Plate 65, Vol. II.

298 FEMALE COSTUME

with six estoiles of five points. Her bag-sleeved gown
has a broad, falling collar.

A cap-like head-gear, from which the hair escapes
behind, is seen worn by : —

c. 1480. Three daughters on the brass of John and Joan
Jay, St. Mary Redcliffe, Bristol.
1483. Two daughters on the brass of Thomas and
Isabella Hampton, Stoke Charity, Hants.

A Note on the Effigies of Children.

Effigies of children on the brasses of their parents, rare
in the fourteenth, become frequent in the fifteenth, and
are common in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.
The term " children " must not be taken to indicate youth,
but rather descent; for the persons represented as chil-
dren on the brasses of their parents are often shown as
middle-aged. As a rule, the costume is a replica or
modification of that worn by the parents, and has been
already described. Sons are more usually in the civilian
than in the military habit of the period, but instances in
armour are occasionally found, and a few cases are known
of sons in holy orders being represented in vestments or in
clerical habit {see pp. 94, 95, 104, 106). The head-dress of
the daughter is, as a rule, simpler than that of her mother,'
long hair being frequently found {e.g.^ four daughters of
Roger Kyngdon, 1471, Quethiock, Cornwall). In brasses
of the sixteenth century the daughters sometimes wear
the Paris head, whilst their mothers show the older pedi-
mental coiffure {e.g., 1542, Elizabeth, wife of Thomas
Fromond, Esq., and daughters, Cheam, Surrey, or the
daughters of Edward and Ciselye Goodman, 1560, Ruthyn,
Denbighshire). The early part of the fifteenth century

^ For instance, the pedlmental head-dress is shown with frontlet, but
allowing the hair to escape behind, e.g., the daughters of Edward Sulyard,
Esq., c, 1495, High Laver, Essex.

FEMALE COSTUME 299

does not afford many examples of these effigies. A few
exist, e.g. : —

1405. Reginald and Robert, sons of Sir Reginald Bray-
brook, Cobham, Kent ; on small pedestals.

1407. John, son of Sir Nicholas Hawberk, Cobham,
Kent ; similar to the last.

141 6. The Children of Thomas Stokes, Esq., Ashby
St. Legers, Northants.

1419. The Children of John Lyndewode, Linwood,
Lines. ; in small canopies beneath the larger
effigies.

1429. The Children of Roger Thornton, Esq., All Saints,
Newcastle-on-Tyne ; similarly placed.

As a rule, the children are placed either standing or
kneeling beneath the principal effigies ; but when a rect-
angular plate is employed, they are usually found grouped,
the sons behind their father, and the daughters behind
their mother. Brasses commemorating young children
do not become common till a late period. The following
are some examples, in which seven of the boys wear the long
skirts of childhood, giving to their costume a feminine
appearance : —

1585. Peter, son of Nicholas Best, Merstham Surrey;

with towel-like handkerchief tied to girdle.

1 601. John Shorland, Woodbridge, Suifolk (aged seven).

1623. John, son of Francis Drake, Esq., Amersham,
Bucks, (aged four).

1 63 1. The Hon. Edward Saintmaur, fourth son of
William, Earl of Hertford, CoUingbourne
Ducis, Wilts, (in his first year).

1633. William, eldest son of William Glynne, Clynnog,
Carnarvonshire (aged two) ; a similar hand-
kerchief to that of Peter Best.

1 64 1. George Evelyn, Esq., son of Sir John Evelyn,

West Deane, Wilts, (aged six).

1642. Arthur, only son of Philip, Lord Wharton,

300 FEMALE COSTUME

Woob urn, Bucks, (aged nine months) j re-
cumbent.

1599. William, son of George Brome, Holton, Oxon
(aged ten) ; in trunk-hose, doublet and short
cloak.

1606. Ralph, son of William Wiclif, Wycliffe, Yorks.

(aged fourteen) ; kneeling in similar costume,
but without cloak.

1628. Dorothy, daughter of John Turner, Gent., Kirk-
leatham, Yorks. (aged four) ; large standing
rufF or collar.

1630. Ann, daughter of Barnard Hyde, Esq., Little

Ilford, Essex (aged eighteen).
1683. Anne, daughter of Henry and Anne Dunch, Little

Wittenham, Berks, (aged ten months).

-IeRE^LVS AhNE DUNCH V DAUGH OF HeW/BIW
lOFAhNERlNCH HK WIFE WHO BEING BORN Y
PF Novrffe'DEFHRTED THIS UFE AUG: 30. r(5a

ANNE, DAUGHTER OF HENRY DUNCH, 1683,
Little Wittenham. Berks.

APPENDICES

A.

From The Antiquities of Warwickshire, by Sir William
Dugdale, 2nd edition, revised by William Thomas,
D.D. London, 1730, Vol. I., pp. 445-46.'

" On the southside, and adjoining to the Quire of this Church, stands
that stately and beautiful! Chapell dedicated to the honour of the
B. Virgin, the fabrick whereof was begun by the Executors of Richard
Beauchamp Earl of Warwick (according to the appointn\ent of his Will)
in 2 1. H. 6. and perfected in 3.E.4. together with that magnificent Tombe
for the said Earl, inferior to none in England, except that of K. H. 7. in
Westminster Abby; the charge of all which came to no less than
248111. 04s. oyd. ob. as by the particular accompts appeareth : but to
how vast a sum such a piece of worke would have amounted to in these
days, may be easily guest by that great disproportion in the prizes of
things now, from what they were then, the value of an Oxe being about
that time xlils. ivd. and of a quarter of bread corne ills. ivd.

" That the beauty of this goodly Chapell and Monument, through the
iniquity of later times, is now much impaired, all that have seen it may
easily discern, and thereby guess at the glory wherein it once stood ; to
such therefore would there be no great need to say more thereof ; but
for the satisfaction of others, I have here thought fit to insert a brief of
the Covenants betwixt the said Executors, viz. Thomas Huggeford, Nlch,
Rodye, and Will. Berkswell, and the severall Artists that were employed
in the most exquisite parts of its fabrick and ornaments, as also of the
costly Tombe before specified, bearing date xill. Junli 32. H. 6.

" John Essex Marbler, Will. Austen Founder, and Thomas Stevyns
Copper Smyth, do covenant with the said Executors, that they shall
make, forge, and worke in most finest wise and of the finest Latten, one
large plate to be dressed and to lye on the overmost stone of the Tombe
under the Image that shall lye on the same Tombe ; and two narrow
plates to go round about the stone. Also they shall make in like wise,
and like Latten, an Hearse to be dressed and set upon the said stone,
over the Image, to beare a covering to be ordeyned ; the large plate, to
be made of the finest and thickest Cullen plate, shall be in length
viii. foot, and in bredth ill. foot and one inch. Either of the said long
plates for writing shall be in bredth to fill justly the casements provided
therefore ; the Hearse to be made in the comliest wise, justly in length,
bredth, thickness, and height thereof, and of every part thereof, and in

I See also Description of the Beauchamp Chapel adjoining to the Church oj St. Mary at
W arwickf and the Monuments of the Earls of tVarivick in the said Church and elsewhere,
by Richard Gough, Esq. New edition. London, Nichols, 1809, p. 9.

304

APPENDICES

workmanship in all places and pieces such, and after an Hearse of timber
which the Executors shall make for a pattern : and in ten panells of this
Hearse of Letters the said workmen shall set, in the most finest and
fairest wise, ten Scutcheons of Armes, such as the Executors will devise.
In the two long plates they shall write in Latine in fine manner all such
Scripture of Declaration as the said Executors shall devise, that may be
conteined and comprehended in the plates ; all the champes about the
Letter to be abated and hatched curiously to set out the Letters, All
the aforesaid large plates, and all the said two plates through all the over
sides of them, and all the said Hearse of Latten, without and within,
they shall repair and gild with the finest gold, as finely, and as well in
all places through, as is or shall be any place of the aforesaid Image,
which one Bartholmew Goldsmyth then had in gilding; all the said
workmanship, in making, finishing, laying and fastning to be at the
charge of the said workmen. And for the same they have in sterling
money Cxxvli.

"Will. Austen Citizen and Founder of London xiv. Martii 30. H. 6.
covenanteth, &c to cast, work, and perfectly to make, of the finest
Latten to be gilded that may be found, xiv. Images embossed, of Lords
and Ladyes in divers vestures, called Weepers, to stand in housings made
about the Tombe, those Images to be made in bredth, length and thick-
ness, &c to xiv. patterns made of timber. Also he shall make xviii. lesse
Images of Angells, to stand in other housings, as shall be appointed by
patterns, whereof ix. after one side, and ix. after another. Also he must
make an Hearse to stand on the Tombe, above and about the principall
Image that shall lye in the Tombe, according to a pattern ; the stufFe
and Workmanship to the repairing to be at the charge of the said Will.
Austen. And the Executors shall pay for every Image that shall lye on
the Tombe, of the weepers so made in Latten, xiiis. ivd. And for every
Image of Angells so made vs. And for every pound of Latten that shall
be in the Hearse xd. And shall pay and bear the costs of the said Austen
for setting the said Images and Herse,

"The said Will. Austen, xi. Feb. 28. H. 6. doth covenant to cast and
make an Image of a man armed, of fine Latten, garnished with certain
ornaments, viz. with Sword and Dagger ; with a Garter ; with a Helme
and Crest under his head, and at his feet a Bear musled, and a Griffon,
perfectly made of the finest Latten, according to patterns ; all which to
be brought to Warwick, and layd on the Tombe, at the perill of the
said Austen ; the said Executors paying for the Image, perfectly made
and laid, and all the ornaments, in good order, besides the cost of the
said workmen to Warwick and working there to lay the Image, and
besides the cost of the carriages, all which are to be born by the said
Executors, in total xl li.

" Bartholomew Lambespring Dutchman, and Goldsmyth of London,
23. Mali 27. H. 6. covenanteth to repair, whone, and pullish, and to
make perfect to the gilding, an Image of Latten of a man armed that is
in making, to lye over the Tombe, and all the apparell that belongeth

APPENDICES

thereunto, as Helme, Crest, Sword, &c. and Beasts ; the said Executors
paying therefore xiii li.

"The said Bartholomew and Will. Austen xii. Martii 31. H. 6. do
covenant to puUish and repare xxxii. Images of Latten, lately made by
the said Will. Austen for the Tombe, viz. xviii. Images of Angells, and
xiv. Images of Mourners, ready to the gilding; the said Executors
paying therefore xx li.

"The said Bartholomew 6. Julii 30. H. 6. doth covenant to make xiv.
Scutcheons of the finest Latten, to be set under xiv. Images of Lords and
Ladyes, Weepers, about the Tombe ; every Scutcheon to be made meet in
length, bredth, and thickness, to the place it shall stand in the Marble
according to the patterns. These xiv. Scotcheons, and the Armes in
them, the said Bartholomew shall make, repare, grave, gild, enamil, and
puUish as well as is possible ; and the same Scutcheons shall set up, and
pin fast, and shall bear the charge of all the stuff thereof, the said
Executors paying for every Scutcheon xvs. sterling, which in all
amounteth to xli. xs.

"The said Bartholomew xx. Julii 31.H.6. doth covenant, &c. to gild,
pullish, and burnish xxxii. Images, whereof xiv. Mourners, and xviii.
Angells to be set about the Tombe, and to make the visages and hands,
and all other bares of all the said Images, in most quick and fair wise,
and to save the gold as much as may be from and without spoiling, and
to find all things saving gold ; the said Executors to find all the gold that
shall be occupied thereabout, and to pay him for his other charges and
labours, either xlli. or else so much as two honest and skilfull Goldsmyths
shall say upon the view of the work, what the same, besides gold and his
labour, is worth : and the Executors are to deliver money from time to
time, as the work goeth forward, whereof they pay Lili. viiis. ivd.

"The said Bartholomew iii° Martii 32. H. 6. doth covenant to make
clean, to gild, to burnish, and pullish the great Image of Latten, which
shall lye upon the Tombe, with the Helme and Crest, the Bear and the
Griffon, and all other the ornaments of Latten ; and the said Bartholomew
shall finde all manner of stuffe for the doing thereof, saving gold, and all
workmanship at his charges, the said Executors providing gold, and
giving to the said Bartholomew such sum and sums of money for his
charges and workmanship, as two honest and skilfull Goldsmyths, view-
ing the work, shall adjudge, whereof some of the money to be payd for
the borde of the workmen, as the work shall go forward, whereof they
pay xcvli. iis. viiid.

"John Bourde of CorfF Castle in the County of Dorset Marbler
16, Maii 35. H. 6. doth covenant to make a Tombe of Marble, to be set
on the said Earle's grave ; the said Tombe to be made well, cleane, and
sufficiently, of a good and fine Marble, as well coloured as may be had
in England. The uppermost stone of the Tombe and the base thereof
to contain in length ix. foot of the standard, in bredth iv. foot, and in
thickness vii. inches : the course of the Tombe to be of good and due
proportion to answer the length and bredth of the uppermost stone ; and

X

3o6

APPENDICES

a pace to be made round about the Tombe of like good marble, to stand
on the ground ; which pace shall contain in thickness vi. inches, and in
bredth xviii. inches. The Tombe to bear in height from the pace iv. foot
and a half. And in and about the same Tombe to make xiv. principall
housings, and under every principall housing a goodly quarter for a
Scutcheon of copper and gilt, to be set in ; and to do all the work and
workmanship about the said Tombe to the entail, according to a portraic-
ture delivered him ; and the carriages and bringing to Warwick, and
there to set the same up where it shall stand : the entailing to be at the
charge of the Executors: after which entailing the said Marbler shall
pullish and dense the said Tombe in workmanlike sort : and for all the
said Marble, carriage and work he shall have in sterling money xlv li.

" The said Marbler covenanteth to provide, of good and well-coloured
Marble, so many stones as will pave the Chapell where the Tombe
standeth, every stone containing in thickness two inches, and in con-
venient bredth, and to bring the same to Warwick and lay it : and for
the stuff, workmanship, and carriage of every hundred of those stones, he
shall have xls. which in the totall comes to ivli. xiiis. ivd."

B.

From Ancient Funerall Monuments within the United
Monarchie of Great Britaine^ Ireland^ and the Islands
adiacenty with the dissolued hlonasteries therein contained:
their Founders^ and what eminent Persons haue heene in
the same interred. . . . fVhereunto is prefixed a
Discourse of Funerall Monuments. Of the Foundation
and fall of Religious Houses. Of Religious Orders. Of
the Ecclesiasticall Estate of England, ..." Com-
posed by the Studie and Trauels of John Weever.
. . . London. Printed by Thomas Harper,
1 63 1. And are to be sold by Laurence Sadler at the
signe of the Golden Lion in little Britaine."

" The Author to the Reader —

" Having scene (judicious Reader) how carefully in other Kingdomes,
the Monuments of the dead are preserved, and their Inscriptions or
Epitaphs registred in their Church-Bookes ; and having read the
Epitaphs of Italy, France, Germany, and other Nations, collected and
put in print by the paines of Schraderus, Chpraus, Szvertius, and other
forraine Writers — And also knowing withall how barbarously within
these his Majesties Dominions, they are (to the shame of our time)

APPENDICES

307

broken downe, and utterly almost all ruinated, their brasen Inscriptions
erazed, tome away, and pilfered, by which inhumane, deformidable act,
the honourable memory of many vertuous and noble persons deceased, is
extinguished, and the true understanding of divers Families in these
Realmes (who have descended of these worthy persons aforesaid) is so
darkened, as the true course of their inheritance is thereby partly
interrupted : grieving at this unsufferable injurie offered as well to the
living, as the dead, out of the respect I bore to venerable Antiquity, and
the due regard to continue the remembrance of the defunct to future
posteritie ; I determined with myselfe to collect such memorials of the
deceased, as were remaining as yet undefaced ; as also to revive the
memories of eminent worthy persons entombed or interred, either in
Parish, or in Abbey Churches ; howsoever some of their Sepulchres are at
this day no where to be discerned, neither their bones and ashie remaines
in any place to bee gathered. Whereupon with painefull expences
(which might have beene well spared perhaps you will say) I travailed
over the most parts of all England, and some parts of Scotland," etc. . . .

Chapter X. —

[Page 50.] " Of the rooting up, taking away, crazing and defacing of
Funerall Monuments in the reignes of King Henry the eighth, and Edward the
sixth. Of the care Queene Elizabeth, of famous memory, had for the preserva-
tion of the same. Her Proclamation in the second of her raigne against defacing
of Monuments.

"Toward the latter end of the raigne of Henry the eight, and
throughout the whole raigne of Edward the sixth, and in the beginning
of Queene Elizabeth, certaine persons of every County were put in
authority to pull downe, and cast out of all Churches, Roodes, graven
Images, Shrines with their reliques, to which the ignorant people came
flocking in adoration. Or any thing else, which (punctually) tended to
idolatrie and superstition. Under colour of this their Commission, and in
their too forward zeale, they rooted up, and battered downe, Crosses in
Churches, and Church-yards, as also in other publike places, they
defaced and brake downe the images of Kings, Princes, and noble estates ;
erected, set up, or pourtraied, for the onely memory of them to posterity,
and not for any religious honour : they crackt a peeces the glasse-
windowes wherein the effigies of our blessed Saviour hanging on the
Crosse, or any one of his Saints was depictured ; or otherwise turned up
their heeles into the place where their heads used to be fixt ; as I have
scene in the windowes of some of our countrey Churches. They
despoiled Churches of their copes, vestments. Amices, rich hangings, and
all other ornaments whereupon the story, or the pourtraiture, of Christ
himselfe, or of any Saint or Martyr, was delineated, wrought, or
embroidered ; leaving Religion naked, bare, and unclad ; as Dionysius
left lupiter without a cloake, and Aesculapius without a beard.

[Page 5 1 .] But the foulest and most inhumane action of those times,

3o8

APPENDICES

was the violation of Funerall Monuments. Marbles which covered the
dead were digged up, and put to other uses (as I have partly touched
before) Tombes hackt and hewne apeeces ; Images or representations of
the defunct, broken, erazed, cut, or dismembred, Inscriptions or Epitaphs,
especially if they began within an orate pro anima, or concluded with
cuius anima propitisiur Deus. For greedinesse of the brasse, or for that
they were thought to bee Antichristian, pulled out from the Sepulchres,
and purloined ; dead carcases, for gaine of their stone or leaden coffins,
cast out of their graves, notwithstanding this request, cut or engraven
upon them, propter misericcrdiam lesu requiescant in pace. These Com-
missioners, these rvi-t^tiipvypi, these Tombe-breakers, these grave-
diggers, made such deepe and diligent search into the bottome of ancient
Sepulchres, in hope there to find (belike) some long-hidden treasure ;
having heard or read that Hircanus ex Davidis Sepulchro tria millia auri
talenta eruit: That Hircanus tooke three thousand talents of gold out of
King Davids Sepulchre ; Crimen Sacrilegio proximum, a sinne the nearest
unto Sacriledge. Not so much for taking out the money, for Aurum
Sepulchris juste detrahitur, ubi Dominus non habetur, as for the drawing out,
and dispersing abroad the bones, ashes, and other the sacred remaines of
the dead. And hereupon the grave-rakers, these gold-finders are called
theeves, in old Inscriptions upon Monuments.

Plutoni sacrum munus ne attingite fures.
And in another place : Abite hinc pessumi fures.

" But I have gone further then my commission, thus then to returne.

" This barbarous rage against the dead (by the Commissioners, and
others animated by their ill example) continued untill the second yeare of
the raigne of Queene Elizabeth, of famous memory, who, to restraine
such a savage cruelty, caused this Proclamation (following) to bee
published [page 52] throughout all her dominions; which after the im-
printing thereof, shee signed (each one severally) with her owne hand-
writing, as this was, which I had of my friend. Master Humphrey
Dyson.

" ELIZABETH.

" A Proclamation against breaking or defacing of Monuments of Antiquitie,
being set up in Churches, or other publike places, for memory, and not for
superstition. .

"The Queenes Majestie understanding, that by the meanes ofsundne
people, partly ignorant, partly malicious, or covetous ; there hath been
of late yeares spoiled and broken certaine ancient Monuments, some of
metall, some of stone, which were erected up aswell in Churches, as in
other publike places within this Realme, onely to shew a memory to the
posterity of the persons there buried, or that had beene benefactors to
the building or dotations of the same Churches or publique places, and
not to nourish any kinde of superstition. By which meanes, not onely
the Churches, and places remaine at this present day spoiled, broken,
and ruinated, to the offence of all noble and gentle hearts, and the

APPENDICES

extinguishing of the honourable and good memory of sundry vertuous
and noble persons deceased ; but also the true understanding of divers
Families in this Realme (who have descended of the bloud of the same
persons deceased) is thereby so darkened, as the true course of their
inheritance may be hereafter interrupted, contrary to lustice, besides
many other offences that doe hereof ensue to the slander of such as
either gave, or had charge in times past onely to deface Monuments of
idolatry and false fained images in Churches and Abbeyes. And there-
fore, although it be very hard to recover things broken and spoiled : yet
both to provide that no such barbarous disorder bee hereafter used, and
to repalre as much of the said Monuments as conveniently may be : Her
Majestie chargeth and commandeth all manner of persons hereafter to
forbeare the breaking or defacing of any parcell of any Monument, or
Tombe, or Grave, or other Inscription and memory of any person
deceased, being in any manner of place, or to breake any image of Kings,
Princes, or nobles Estates of this Realme, or of any other that have beene
in times past erected and set up, for the onely memory of them to their
posterity in common Churches, and not for any religious honour ; or to
breake downe and deface any Image in glasse-windowes in any Church,
without consent of the Ordinary : upon paine that whosoever shal herein
be found to offend, to be committed to the next Goale, and there to
remaine without baile or mainprise, unto the next comming of the
lustices, for the delivery of the said Goale ; and then to be further
punished by fine or imprisonment (besides the restitution or reedification
of the thing broken) as to the said lustices shall seeme meete ; using
therein the advise of the Ordinary, and if neede shall bee, the advise also
of her Majesties Councell in her Starre-chamber.

"And for such as bee already spoiled in any Church, or Chappell,
now [page 53] standing: Her Majestie chargeth and commandeth, all
Archbishops, Bishops, and other Ordinaries, or Ecclesiastical persons,
which have authoritie to visit the Churches or Chappels ; to inquire by pre-
sentments of the Curates, Churchwardens, and certaine of the Parishoners,
what manner of spoiles have been made, sithens the beginning of her
Majesties raigne of such Monuments ; and by whom, and if the persons
be living, how able they be to repaire and reedifie the same ; and there-
upon to convent the same persons, and to enjoyne them under paine of
Excommunication, to repaire the same by a convenient day, or other-
wise, as the cause shall further require, to notifie the same to her
Majesties Councell in the Starre-chamber at Westminster. And if any
such shall be found and convicted thereof, not able to repaire the same ;
that then they be enjoyned to doe open penance two or three times in
the Church, as to the qualitie of the crime and partie belongeth under
like paine of Excommunication. And if the partie that offended bee
dead, and the executours of the Will left, having sufficient in their hands
unadministred, and the offence notorious ; The Ordinary of the place
shall also enjoyne them to repaire or reedifie the same, upon like or any
other convenient paine, to bee devised by the said Ordinary. And when

APPENDICES

the ofFendour cannot be presented, if it be in any Cathedrall or
Collegiate Church which hath any revenue belonging to it, that is not
particularly allotted to the sustentation of any person certaine, or other-
wise, but that it may remaine in discretion of the governour thereof, to
bestow the same upon any other charitable deed, as mending of high-
wayes, or such like ; her Majestie enjoyneth and straightly chargeth the
governours and companies of every such Church, to employ such parcels
of the said sums of money (as any wise may be spared) upon the speedy
repaire or reedification of any such Monuments so defaced or spoiled, as
agreeable to the originall, as the same conveniently may be.

"And where the covetousnesse of certaine persons is such, that as
Patrons of Churches, or owners of the personages impropriated, or by
some other colour or pretence, they do perswade with the Parson and
Parishioners to take or throw downe the Bels of Churches and Chappels,
and the lead of the same, converting the same to their private gaine, and
to the spoiles of the said places, and make such like alterations, as thereby
they seeke a slanderous desolation of the places of prayer : Her Majestie
(to whom in the right of the Crowne by the ordinance of Almighty God,
and by the Lawes of this Realme, the defence and protection of the
Church of this Realme belongeth) doth expresly forbid any manner of
person, to take away any Bels or lead of any Church or Chappel, under
paine of imprisonment during her Majesties pleasure, and such further
fine for the contempt, as shall be thought meete.

"And her Majestie chargeth all Bishops and Ordinaries to enquire of
all such contempts done from the beginning of her Majesties raigne, and
to enjoyne the persons offending to repaire the same within a convenient
time. And of their doings in this behalfe, to certifie her Majesties privie
Councell, or the Councell in the Starre-chamber at Westminster, that
order may be taken herein.

[Page 54.] " Teven at Windsor the xix of September the second yeare of
her Majesties raigne. God save the Queene. Imprinted at London in Pauls
Churchyard by Richard lugge and John Cazvood, Printers to the Queenes
Majestie. Cum privilegio Regime Majestatis.

" This Proclamation was seconded by another, to the same purpose, in
the fourteenth yeare of her Majesties raigne, charging the Justices of her
Assise to provide severe remedie, both for the punishment and reforma-
tion thereof.

" But these Proclamations tooke small effect for much what about this
time, there sprung up a contagious broode of Sclsmatickes ; who, if they
might have had their wills, would not onely have robbed our Churches
of all their ornaments and riches, but also have laid them levell with the
ground ; choosing rather to exercise their devotions, and publish their
erronious doctrines, in some emptie barne, in the woods, or common
fields, then in these Churches, which they held to be polluted with the
abhominations of the whore of Babylon."

APPENDICES

C.

Note on vestments showing personal devices, as illustrated
by the exhibition of the Burlington Fine Arts Club,
1905.

In the remarks made on pp. 83-4 concerning the ornamentation of
Mass Vestments as they are shown on brasses, we mention the rare
occurrence of personal devices and of figures of samts on chasubles.
Although the latter are rare on brasses, they are not uncommon on the
orphreys of actual chasubles, which are still in existence, especially m the
form of representations of sacred subjects, such as the Crucifixion or
Assumption. But personal and heraldic ^ devices are more rarely found.
In the Exhibition of English Embroidery, executed prior to the middle of the
Sixteenth Century, held by the Burlington Fine Arts Club, 1905, were
included some good examples of this form of decoration, e.g. : —

Chasuble (Case A, No. 3), of early sixteenth century work, with the
initials " R T " combined with pastoral staff and mitre, for
Robert Thorneton, Abbot of Jervaulx (1510-1533); lent by
the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Chasuble (M, 3), early sixteenth century, inscribed Pray for /
sotvlls of Thorns] Sales and Helene hys wyfe; lent by St. George's
Cathedral, Southwark.
Chasuble (M, 5), early sixteenth century, decorated with the
badges of Henry VIII. and Catherine of Aragon ; lent by
the Right Rev. Bishop Knight.
Chasuble (G, 2), middle sixteenth century, ornamented with the
letters " P " and " R " and gloves, with inscription on cruci-
form orphrey. Orate p\r6\ ala fcimli tui P [a glove] R, for Glover ;
lent by Downside Abbey, Bath.
Chasuble orphrey (B, 2), middle fourteenth century, with arms of
John Grandlsson, Bishop of Exeter, i 327-1 369; lent by the
Marquis of Bute.

Chasuble (I) of red velvet, embroidered with the lions of England
in gold, and with the arms of Solms on the orphrey, probably
made from a horse-trapper of fourteenth-century work ; lent
by H.H. Prince Solms-Braunfels.

Chasuble (V), fifteenth century; on cross-shaped orphrey the
Crucifixion, flanked by two shields with bear and griffin sup-
porters, each bearing the arms of Henry Beauchamp, Duke of

1 Personal devices are not infrequently found on copes shown on brasses {see
pp. 89-90). Figures of saints on the orphreys of copes are common, and are found on
brasses {see p. 93). Fine examples were shown at the Burlington Fine Arts Club
Exhibition, and splendid copes figure in several pictures in the National Gallery.

2 Good examples of heraldic chasubles are in the collection at the South Kensington
Museum.

312

APPENDICES

Warwick {d. 1445 or 1446) :— Quarterly, i, Beauchamp ; 2,
Clare; 3, Despenser ; 4, Newburgh ; impaling those of his
wife Cecily Nevill, sister of the King-Maker :— Quarterly,
I and 4, Montacute quartering Monthermer ; 2 and 3, Nevill'
with a label of three points. Lent by Mr. R. C. Adams
Beck.

Chasuble (X, i), fifteenth century, with the arms of PlantageneC,
Stafford, De Bohun, Clare, and FitzWalter ; the shields sup
ported by swans ; the Stafford knot figuring in the decoration ;
lent by Colonel J. E, Butler-Bowdon.

Chasuble orphrey (Z, 1 7), early sixteenth century, showing below
the Crucifixion the arms of John de Vere, Earl of Oxford
{d. 1513), impaling those of his second wife, Elizabeth,
daughter of Sir Richard Scrope and widow of William,
Viscount Beaumont; lent by Lieutenant-Colonel Croft-
Lyons.

A fine heraldic Stole (E, 3) and Maniple (E, 2) of fourteenth-century
work, the former decorated with forty-six shields, were lent by Miss
Weld, of Leagram, and a Stole (E, 4), of similar date, containing thirty-
eight shields, by Lord Willoughby de Broke.

Two other examples of church needlework, showing personal devices,
must be mentioned, (i.) An altar cover (M, 8) made from fragments of
three vestments, showing a rebus, consisting of the letters " Why " in
gold on red velvet and the figure of a church, for William Whychurch,
Abbot of Hayles, near Buckland, in 1470; lent by the Rector and
Churchwardens of Buckland Broadway, (ii.) A Hanging (BB) made
from parts of two vestments (? copes), showing an angel supporting a
shield with the arms of Ralph Parsons,^ d. 1478 (Argent on a chevron
sable three roses or) ; a scroll below reading. Orate p\ro\ ata dm Radi />[ar] sos;
lent by the Vicar and Churchwardens of Cirencester.

I His brass is at Cirencester, showing him in mass vestments and holding a chalice
with wafer. See The Monumental Brasses of Gloucestershire, by Cecil T. Davis. London.
1899. Pages 75-6.

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA

p. 29, line I7,>r Blomfield read Blomefield.

P. 34, line 18,/or Bowers GlfFard read Bowers Giftord.

P. 40, line z, for WldvUle r^^i Wideville.

„ line I o,_/o;- fourteeth fourteenth.
P. 43, line 16, for TopclllF read Topclyff.

P. 44, line 8, insert Bishops before Burchard ; /^r lohn r^^^ Johan.

„ line 22, note, Flemish palimpsests here.
P. 50, line 8, j^r enamelling read colouring.
P. 52, line 20, r^^^ Bishop Johan de Mul.

„ line 27,/orTopcllffr^a^ Topclyff; also p. 53, line 3.
P. 55, footnote 2, 6, Grave; Stone; line 8, rivited & fastened;

line 9, cleane; line 10, add YroY^^ 8 June 1631,
P. 70, lines 3-4, yor Gamma (y) readX.

line lo,_/or Horsemonden r^<z^ Horsmonden.
line l6,>r Shottesbrook r^^z^ Shottesbrooke. • 1 1 1,

P. 71. The dates c. 141 1, 1472, must not be considered to include the
paragraphs following ; but merely the first brass in each paragraph.
P. 76, footnote, line 4,>r 1630 read 1 630-1.

P. 80, footnote 3, line 2,>- William Neele, 15 10, ?W William Jomb-

harte, c. 1 500.
P. 82, line ■],for through read owing to.
P. 84, footnote 4, line /\.,for sixteenth read fifteenth.

Add A Richard Standon or Stondon, Friar Preacher, was appointed
a papal chaplain, 141 3, 6 Kal. Feb. ^ee p. 175» Calendar of
Entries in the Papal Registers relating to Great Britain and Ireland.
Papal Letters, Yo\.Yl., h.n. 1404-1415, 1904; and the same,
p. 381.

P. 86, footnote 2, line 3, add 1895, p. 41.

P. 87, line zo, for Butler read Buttler.

P. 88, line \o,for Clothal read Clothall.

P. 94, line \,for Penhalluryk read Penhallinyk.

P. 95, line \<^,for c. 1490 read c. 1400.

P. 102, line 30,_/o;- Wimlngton /r^^a' Wymington.

P. 105, footnote I, line \,for Crishall read Chrlshall.

P. 106, line \ ^,for Laycock read Lacock.

P. 108, footnote 2, line (),for Redfarn read Redfern.

P. Ill, footnote 2, line zi, for Badelsmere read Badlesmere.

P. 112, footnote I, line 'i,for Ruthyn read Ruthin.

P. 127, footnote 3, line Z,for Maltheureux r^rt^^ Malheureux. ■

P. 129, line 1 2,_;^r Yslyngtone r^^zt^ Yslyngton.

P. 131, line 7, p. 132, line 6, for Sowthe read Lowthe.

P. 134, line 33,70^ Jacob read James.

3i6

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA

P. 140, add to footnote:— In the Losely Chapel, St. Nicholas' Church
Guildford, IS the sculptured efflgy of Canon Arnald Brocas, Rector'
I 395> showing him in cassoclc, surplice, grey almuce, and red cope^
with the close-fitting buttoned sleeves of a red undergarment
appearing at the wrists. The brass inscription describes him as
" baculari' ut'usq[ue] iuris."
P. 141, line 27, /or \\io\read 1434. See Winchester Scholars, by Thomas
Frederick Kirby, M.A., London, 1888, p. 54. (An illustration of
this brass forms the frontispiece.)
P. 150, line z6,for Neyland Nayland.

55, line 14, after torteaux add gules, over all a label of three points.
61, line l/^,for lohn read ]ohn.

69, line I, for Sir John Leventhorpe r^^a' John Leventhorpe, Esq.

70, line II, for Sir John Throckmorton read John Throckmorton,
Esq.

75, line ^,for Anstey r^^a' Ansty.
79, line J, for Lyttcot read Lytkot.
79, line II, for Redcliff r^-^^ Redcliffe.
81, line i<i,for Heveningham read Hevenyngham.
83, line ^,for Ralph read Raphe.
85, line 2$, for Arundell read Arundel.
90, line 27,7^;- Sir Thomas Peryent read John Peryent, Esq.

90, line Suffer Arnold read Arnald.

91, line 2S, for Sir Thomas de St. Quintin read Thomas de St.
Quintin, Esq.

92, line JO, for Sergeant read Serjeant.

93, line 16, for Coates read Cotes.
P. 200, line 16, for Agnes read Agneys.

P. 201, line 2%, for Frankelein read Civilian. See p. 200.

P. 207, line 33,7^r Lechdale r^<7^ Lechlade.

P. 208, line id, for Smith read Smyth.

P. 212, line ZZ,for Hatch read Hatche.

P. 214, line 22, for Rawmarch read Rawmarsh.

P. 216, line 1\,for William r^^z^ Walter (Septvans).

P. 218, line if, for Brown read Browne.

P. 228, line \,for Bingham read Byngham.

„ line ^,for Urswyke read Urswyk.
P. 232, line 22, for Laycock read Lacock.
P. 234, line 20, for Willesdon r^^a' Willesden.
P. 244, line \\yfor Hellesden read Hellesdon.
P. 245, line \,for TopclifF read TopclyfF.
P. 249, line \,for Stapelton read Stapleton.
P. 250, line \\,for Crishall read Chrishall.
P. 251, line ig,for Kerdiston read Kerdeston.
P. 261, line i %,for Mellicent r^^;^ Millicent.

„ line 2 J, for Quartermain read Quartremayn.
P. 263, line ^,for Launcelyn read Launceleyn.

P.
P.
P.
P.

P.
P.
P.
P.
P.
P.
P.
P.
P.

P.
P.

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA 31?

p. 265, line 16, read Furneaux Pelham.

line 17, for Quartermain read Quartremayn.
P. 268, line \ojor Sir Thomas Shernborne read Thomas Shernborne,
Esq.

P. 268, line 22, omit ? after Catherine.
P. 271, line i8,>r Ingleton read Ingylton.
P. 275, line i6,>r Herling read Harling.
P. 276, line %, for Laycock read Lacock.

„ line 2 3,>r Ardingly read Ardingley.
P. 279, line \, for Dauntesay read Dauntsay.
P. 284, line 24, /or Sir William Coke read William Coke, lisq.
P. 296, line 33, >r c. 1480 read c. 1475.
P. 298, line 10, for Ruthyn read Ruthin.
P. 299, lines 1-\,for Braybrook read Braybrok.

INDICES

OF PERSONS
OF PLACES
OF COSTUME
GENERAL

OF PERSONS^

Names of Authors cited in italics.

Abbot, Alice, 115; Archbishop
George, 115; Maurice, 115;
Bishop Robert, 1 1 5

Abell, William, 13, 82, 102

Aberfeld, John, 139

Acklam, George, 1.5

Adams, Richard, 95, 102

Adrianson, Adrian, 56

Aileward, Thomas, 90, 91, 93

Ailmer, John, 207, 263 ; Margery,
263

Alray, Provost Henry, 14, 117
Alban, St., 47

Albemarle, Isabel de Fortibus,
Countess of, I47». ; William de
Fortibus, Earl of, I47«.

Albinus, Cardinal, 86

Albyn, Robert, 160

Alcala, Don Parafan de Ribera,
Duke of, 25

Aldeburgh, William de, 157, 159,
1 60

Alderburne, John, 71
Aldrych, Robert, 235
Alfounder, Robert, 216
Alnwyk, John, 1 36
jindre,J .Lems,¥.^.P^., 98 «., 247 «,,
286k.

Andrewes, Agnes, 281; Thomas,

Esq., 281
Anjou, Geoffrey Plantagenet, Count

of, 5 : Rene d', 272 «.
Anne Boleyn, Queen, 283 «.
Ansty, John, Esq., 175, 270, 316
Antiquaries, Society of, 2I4«.
Anyell, Dame Juliana, 98

Appleton, Mary, 283 ; Roger, 283
Arden family, lady of, 280
Arderne, Anna, 297 ; Bridgett, 297 ;
Dame Catherine, 268, 317;
Elizabeth, 297 ; John, Esq., 217,
297 ; Dame Matilda, 2o6«. ; Sir
Peter, Chief Baron, 227, 268 ;
Susanna, 297 ; Sir Thomas, 2o6w.
Argentein, John, 128, 133
Argenteine, see D'Argenteine
Argentine, Margery, 265
Armstrong, W., ^zn.
Arthur, Robert, 93
Arundel and Surrey, Beatrice Fitz-
Alan, Countess of, 258, 262 ;
Thomas Fitz-Alan, Earl of, 258
Arundel, the Lady Ann, 292 ; Ann,
292; Sir John, 216, 292 ; John,
Esq., 185, 216, 292, 316 ; Arch-
bishop Thomas, 90 «.
Arundell, family of, 45 ; Edward,
214; Eleanor, Lady, i89«. ; the
Lady Elizabeth, 281 ; George,
Esq., 285 ; Isabel, 285 ; Sir John,
182, 281 ; Sir John, of Trerice,
182, 286; John, i66«. ; Dame
Juliana, 286 ; Dame Katherine,
281 ; Margery, 257, 261 ; Dame
Mary, 286; Richard, l66«. ;
Thomas, Esq., 261
Asger, John, 217
Asheley, Robert, 1667;.
Asheton, Nicholas, 116
Ask, Margaret, 266 ; Richard, Esq.,

172, 266
Asscheton, Mathew de, 91 «.

Y

I See also List of Illustrations.

322

INDICES

Persons Assheton, Edmund, yow., 82, 102 ;

Elizabeth, 293 ; Margaret, 269 ;
Nicholas, 227, 269 ; Ralph, Esq.,
186, 293

Asteley, Ann, 276 ; Thomas, Esq.,
276

Atchley, E. G. CuthbertF., 121 «.

Athelstan, King, 58«.

Athole, David de Strabolgie, Earl

of, 250, 259; Elizabeth de

Ferrers, Countess of, 250
Athowe, John, loi
Atkinson, Richard, 56«., 218, 287;

his two wives, 287
Attelath, Johanna, 33,49 ; Robert,

33, 42«., 49, 52, 201 ».
Attelese, Dame Dionisia, 252 ; Sir

Richard, 252
Aubernoun, see D'Aubernoun
Aubrey y John, 249 ».
Aubrey, — , Esq., 175, 272 ; wife

of, 272

Aumberdene, Nichole de, 103 ».,
197

Aurelian, Emperor, 67
Austen, Will. Founder, 303-5
Avenyng, John, \o\n.
Awmarle, Thomas, 103
Ayl worth, Anthony, 133

B

B., A. L., \\n.y see Bradbridge
Babington family, 295 ».
Babyngton, Radulph, 1 01
Bache, Simon, 79, 8g, 91, 93
Bacon, Adam de, 1 1 »., 64 n.
Bacon, Joan, 263 ; John, 207, 263 ;

Sir — de, 151
Badlesmere, Joan de, ^6; see North-

wode

Bagnall-Oakeley, Mrs. M. E., z'^on.
Bagot, Dame Margaret, 190, 248 ;

Sir William, 162, 190, 248
Baigeni, Francis Joseph, 54»., 247 «.
Bailey, 'Nathan, \o<^n.
Bailey, Walter, 133
Baily, Charles, 52».

Baker, John, 83 ; Thomas, 141
Balsam, John, 82
Bar, Catherine Duchess du, 289 ».
Barantyn, Reginald, Esq., 173
Barbur, Geoffrey, 204
Baret, Valentyne, Esq., 165
Barfoot, John, 22
Barfott, Katheryn, 282; Robert,

213, 282
Barker, Thomas, 128
Barkham, Dame Mary, 185 a.; Sir

Robert, i85«.
Barloe, Joan, 205, 265 ; John, 205,

265

Barnardiston, Sir Thomas, 99, 106
Barnes, Fridesmonda, 1 5 ; Bishop

Richard, 15
Barratte, John, 141
Barron, Oswald, F.S.A., 5«.
Barstaple, John, 204
Bartolozzi, F., iSon., 283 «.
Barttelot, Mary, 291 ; Richard,

291 ; Roesia, 291
Bauchon, Johan, 2l».
Bavaria, Ameleie, Duchess of, 59«.
Bawdyn, William, 22 «.
Baxter, Cristiana, 265 ; Robert,

217, 265
Bayly, William, 205
Baynard, Elizabeth, 106, 276;

Robert, Esq., 106, 181, 232,

276

Baynton, Dame Agnes, 287 ; Sir

Edward, 184, 215, 287; Henry,

Esq., 215
Beauchamp, see Bedford, St. Amand,

Warwick
Beauchampe, Philippa de, 247
Beaufo, Isabel, 249
Beaufort family, 190
Beaufort, Henry Cardinal, 64 ».
Beaujeu, Marguerite de, s6n.,

242 «.

Beaumont, Adam, Esq., 186, 293;
Elizabeth, 293 ; Bishop Lewis de,
28, 42«., 81, 83»., 84». ; Wil-
liam, Viscount, 180, 281, 312

INDICES

323

Beauner, Robert, 96
Beck, R. C. Adams, 312
Becket, see St. Thomas
Bedford, Simon de Beauchamp,

Earl of, 1 6
Bedingfeld, family of, 1 1
Bedingfeild, Anne, 292 ; Eustace,

Esq., 292
Belassis, Margery, 294??. ; Richard,

294«.

Bell, Edward, 214; Bishop John,
35, 74, 80 ; Bishop Richard, 80,
8i».

Bellingham, Elizabeth, 166 «.;

Walter, i66w.
Beloe, E. M., junr.j i8«., zm.,

32«., 33«.
Beltoun, Richard de, 71, 82
Bendlowes, William, S.L., 231
Bennett, Richard, M.A., 13, 101,

137

Benolte (Benold), Thomas, i66«.

Benson, Archbishop, 26; Martin
White, 26

Berdewell, Elizabeth, 275 ; Wil-
liam, Esq., I70W., 275

Beresford, Margaret, 7

BerifFe, Amia, 275; John, 210,

275

Berkeley, Margaret, Lady, 254;

Thomas, Lord, 161, 191, 254
Berkswell, Will., 303
Berkyng, Abbot Richard de, 1 7
Bernard, Dame Elena, 268 ; Sir

John, 191, 268
Berners, Constance, 296 ; John,

Esq., 296
Bernewelt, Reginald, 96
Bertha, Queen, 58».
Bertlot, Petronilla, 269 ; Richard,

Esq., 269
BeryfF, Dame Alice, 294, 296;

Margaret, 294, 296
Best, Nicholas, 299 ; Peter, 299
Bethell, Richard, 106
Betten, Abbot Leonardus, 72^.,

83«., 84

BewfForeste, Richard, 91, 96
Biconyll, Dame Elizabeth, 273 ;

Sir — , 273
Bill, Dean William, 1 1 5
Billing, Sir Thomas, C.J., 228
Billingford, Richard, 125, 127
Bingham, Bishop, of Salisbury, 1 7
Bingham, see Byngham
Bisshop, William, 1 01
Bitton, Sir Walter de, 4
Bladigdone, Johan de, 197, II99»

242 ; Maud de, 197, 242
Blakwey, William, 125, 137
Blanche de Castille, i6«. ; of

Champagne, 5 w. ; de la Tour,

243 »., 248 «.

Blen'haysett, Jane, 294«. ; John,
Esq., 176, 294 ».; Ralph, Esq.,
176

Blighe, Elizabeth, 292 ; John, 292
Blodwell, John, 89, 93
Blomefield, Rev. Francis, 29, 315
Blomfield, Bishop, 1 1 1 ».
Blondell, Esperaunce, 71
Blondevile, Edward, 183; Ralph,

183 ; Richard, 183
Bloor, William, Gent., 211
Blount, Sir Hugh le, 150
Bloxam, M. //., 87«., no
Bloxham, John, 134
Boccaccio, izjn.
Bodiham, John, Esq., 160
Bohun, de, see Gloucester, Hereford
Boileau, Sir M., 84«,
Bokkyngg, Robert de, 2 1 n.
Boleyn, Queen Anne, see Anne
Boleyn, Anna, 295 ; Cecilie, 295 ;

Geoffrey, Esq., 295 ; William,

Esq., 295
Borard, Prior John, I27«.
Borell, Geraldus, I27».
Borrell, John, 35, 179, 192
Borrow, Robert, Esq., 180
Bosard, Margery, 274 ; Philip, 274
Boscawen, John, Esq., 185
Boselyngthorpe, Sir Richard de,

145, 150

324

INDICES

Persons Bossewell, John, Gent., 235

Bostock, Hugo, 207, 263 ; Mar-
garet, 263
Boteler, Elizabeth, 263 ; John, 263
Bothe, Robert, Esq., 191 ; Dame
Douce del, 296 ; Sir Robert del,
174, 296
Botiler, Johan de, 4
Bourbon, Katharine de, 59
Bourchier, Bartholomew, Lord,
256, 265 ; Idonea, Lady, 265 ;
Margaret, Lady, 256 ; see Crom-
well, Essex
Bourde, John, Marbler, 305-6
Boutell, Rev. Charles, i , 4 «., 13

i6»., 43, 48, 55, 64ff., 235
Boutrod, William, 93
Bovile, John, Esq., 171
Bowet, Ele, 254; Richard, 254
Bowke, John, 102, 137
Bownell, Constance, 24 ; Mordecai,
24

Bowthe, Bishop John, 80
Bowthe (Booth) family, 80 ».
Bouiyer, George, 221 «.
Boynton, Thomas, Esq., 180
Boys, Mary, 286 ; Vyncent, 286
Bradbridge, Alice, I4». ; William,
I4».

Bradbury, Henry, 287 ; Jane, 287
Bradschawe, Henry, C. Baron, 229
Bradshawe, Hen., 229
Bradstone, Blanche, 246
Braham, Dame Joan, 98, 294 ;

John, Esq., 294
Bramfeilde, William, Gent., 234
Brand, Rev. John, 295 «.
Brandenburg, Archbishop Albrecht

von, J J, 79 _
Branwhait, William, 71
Brassle, Robert, 95, 129
Brasyer, Richard, 218; Robert, 218
Braunche, Leticia, 43, 48, 5°"3>

197, 243; Margaret, 43, 48,

50-3, 197, 243 ; Robert, 43, 48,

Braunstone, Sir Thomas de, 163

Bray, Cristina, 262 ; Edmund,

Lord, 285
Braybrok, Sir Reginald, 264, 299,

317; Reginald, 299; Robert,

299

Brentyngham, Robert de, 202
Brewster, Humphrey, Esq., 184
Brewys, Sir John de, 57, 168
Bridlington, Prior Thomas, 97 «.
Brieux, John, 128
Brigges, P., 1 5

Brindley, William, 6jn.; i58».

Briscoe, J. Potter, F.R.H.S., 295 «.

Bristol, Digby, Earl of, 193 «.

Brocas, Canon Arnald, 316; Mar-
garet, 245, 295 ; Raulin, 199

Broke, Thomas, Esq., 192

Brokes, Joan, 267 ; William, Esq.,
267

Brokill, Thomas, Esq., 169
Brome, George, 300 ; William,

Esq., 175; William, 300
Bromley, Sir Thomas, C.J., 223 «.
Brook, Dame Joan, 259; John, S.L.,

230; Sir Thomas, 204^., 206,

259

Brooke, Alice, 274; Dame Joan,

290 ; Sir John, 278 ; Dame

Margaret, 278 ; Sir Robert, 290;

Symon, 274; Sir Thomas, 180
Brounflet, Margaret, 256; Sir

Thomas, 165, 168
Browne, Sir Anthony, C.J., 229
Browne, Charles, M.A., 747?.
Browne, John, Gent., 184 ; John,

217; John, junr., 218, 316;

Margaret, 268; William, 217,

268

Bruce, John, F.S.A., 225 ».

Brun, Bishop Lambert von,75»., 77

Brun, Nicholas le, Bailly de Jeu-

mont, 56
Brunswick, Bishop Otto de, 17,63
Brushfield, T. N., M.D., F.S.A.,

57«., 295«.
Bryan, Dame Alice, 265 ; Sir Ed-
mund, 265

INDICES

Bryant, T. Hugh, io6w.
Buckingham, Anne Stafford, Duch-
ess of, 187; Humfrey Stafford,

1st Duke of, 187
Bugge, Edward, Gent., 215
Bugges, Elizabeth, 292 : Richard,

Esq., 292 ; Vahan, 292
Bulkeley, Margaret, 279 ; William,

Esq., 279
Bulkley, Richard, 94 «.
BuUen, Sir Thomas, K.G., Earl of

Wiltshire and of Ormunde, 180,

187, 209
BuUingham, Archdeacon Nicholas,

1 1 3 «.

Bulowe, Bishop Frederic de, 27,
44, 52, 83 ; Bishop Godfrey de,
27, 44, 52, 83: Bishop Henry
de, 44 ; Bishop Ludolph de, 44

Bulstrode, Edward, Esq., 193;
Margaret, 39, 193

Bures, Henry, Esq., 180; Isaia,
M.A., 116; Sir Robert de, 145,
147, 148 _

Burgate, Dame Alianora de, 256;
Sir William de, 256

Burgh, Isabella, 247 «.; Thomas,
247 «.

Burgoyn, John, 278 ; Margaret,
278

Burgundy, Isabella, Duchess of, 59
Buriton, Joan, 289 ; Thomas, 289
Burnedissh, Esm.ound de, 70
Burnell, Sir Nicholas, 159, 161
Burton, John, 116; Dame Mar-
gery, 253 ; Sir Thomas, 162,
190, 253
Bushell, Seath, 13
Bute, Marquis of, 311
Butler, Alban, Esq., 290 ; Isabella,
290 ; Martha, 286 ; Richard,
Esq., 286 ; Sybilla, 290
Butler- Bowdon, Col. J. E., 312
Buttler, Thomas, 87, 94, 315
Buttry, Eel, 263

Byngham, Dame Margaret, 267 ;
Sir Richard, 228, 267, 316

Byrkhede, John, 72«., 90«., 93 '
Byron, Sir John, 266 ; Dame Mar-
garet, 266
Byschop, Geoffrey, 70
Byschoppesdon, Dame Philippa,

257

Byschopton, William, 70
Byttone, Bishop St. William de, 4

C

Caerwent, Nicholas de, 70
Calthorpe, Sir William, 168, 190
Calveley, Sir Hugh, 278 ; Dame

Margery, 278
Calwe, William, 104
Camber, John, 210
Cambridge, Richard Plantagenet,

Earl of, 270
Camoys, Elizabeth, Lady, 13, 190,

206, 257; Margarete de, 57,
239, 246; Sir Richard, 206,
257; Thomas, Lord, K.G., 13,
168, 186, i87«., 190, 206, 257

Campbell, Sir Alexander, Bart.,

I52«.

Campeden, John de, 10, 86, 93
Campedene, Roger, 71
Canteys, Nicholas, 205
Cantilupe, Bishop Thomas, 18,

63»., 81
Capillan, Jacob, 68
Capp, Thomas, 130
Carew, Isabelle, 262 ; Nicholas,

207, 262

Carewe, Elizabeth, 290 ; John,

Esq., 290
Carreu, Philippa, 204, 297
Carter, John, 67 «.
Cary, George, 287 ; Wilmota, 287
Cassey, Richard, 89-90
Cassy, Dame Alicia, 252, 253 ; Sir

John, 226, 252
Caterall, Raffe, Esq., io6».
Caterick, Bishop John, 57
Catesby, Margaret, 278 ; William,

Esq., 278

326

INDICES

Persons Catherine of Aragon, Queen, 3 1 1
Cavendish, George, 277 «.

Cazmiri, Cardinal, 64 «.

Cerne, Sir Edward, 248 ; Dame
Elyne, 248 ; Philippa de, 249 ».

Cervington, Sir Oliver de, 152«.

Ceysyll, John, 210

Chamberlaine, John, zSon., 283 w.

Chambers, Anne, 14; Edmund,
I4». ; Elizabeth, 14«. ; John,
14 ; William, 14

Chandler, Thomas, 124

Charles I., 19, 215, 287, 291

Charles II., 293

Charles IV., 57W.

Charles VI., 258

Charles le Chauve, 68

Charlton, see Powis

Charyls, Walter, 1 37//.

Chaucer, 180, 224, 2307;.

Chaucer, Matilda, 266 ; Thomas,
Esq., 165, 169, 266

Cheddar, Sir Thomas, 165, 169

Chernock, Edward, 141

Cherowin, John, Esq., 4

Chervyll, Thomas, 70

Cheswryght, Matilda, 283; Wil-
liam, 212, 283

Chewt, Arthur, 290; Margaret, 290

Cheyne, Isabella, 273 ; Margaret,
5i«., 258; Robert, Esq., 182;
Thomas, Esq., 158, 161 ; Wil-
liam, Esq., 150W., 161 ; William,
273 ; William, 51 n., 258

Chichele, Archbishop, 126; Bea-
trice, 264; William, 205, 264

Chichester, Edward, Esq., 282 ;
Elizabeth, 282

Chidiock, Sir John, 163 w.

Child, John, 104

Chiverton, Richard, 216

Christy, Miller, ^n.,21 n., 27, 105 n.

Chute, Anne, 289 ; Sir George,
288 ; Dame Margaret, 288

Chytraeus, 306

Clarell, Thomas, 1 00 ; Thomas,
Esq., 191

Clark,ProfessorE. C, LL.D., F.S.A.,
85»., 86, 121, 123-6, i3i».,

223«., 224, 230«.

Clark, a. T., 193 «.
Clark, Henry, 71

Clarke, Humfrey, 287; John, 233;

Margaret, 287
Claughton, Bishop, 58«.
Cleaybroke, William, Esq., 185
Clephan, R. C, 1567;.
Clere, Dame Alice, 259 ; Edmund,

Esq., 176, 275 ; Elizabeth, 275 ;

Sir Robert, 178, 259
Clerk, Sir John, i8i
Cleves, Elizabeth, Duchess, of, 59 ;

John, Duke of, 59
Clifford, Bishop Richard, i^Sn.;

see Cumberland
Clifton, Sir Adam de, 150W., 161?;.;

George, Esq., 215 ; Sir Gervase,

267, 296 ; Dame Isabel, 296
Clippesby, John, Esq., 184, 289;

Julian, 289
Clitherow, Matilda, 266
Clonvill, Isabel, 244, 247
Clopton family, ladies of, 273,

297-8; Francis, Esq., 184;

Dame Joan, 265 ; Sir William,

265

Cobham, Dame Elizabeth, 249 ;
Dame Joan de, 20«., 240 ; Joan,
Lady, l89«. ; Joan, Lady de,
264, 297; Sir John de, 158,
160; Sir John de, 160; John,
Esq., 287 ; Dame Margarete de,
250 ; Dame Margarete de, 251;
Dame Maud, 250 ; Sir Reginald
de, 163 ; Sir Reginald of Ster-
borough, Lord, 249 ; Reginald
de, 86, 95 ; Sir Thomas, 250;
Sir Thomas de, 158; see Brooke

Cobleigh, Isabella, 273 ; Johanna,
273 ; John, 273

Cod, Thomas, 40, 72

Codyngtoun, Henry de, 91, 93

Coggeshall, Thomas de Esq., 168

Coke, Alice, 284

INDICES

327

Coke, Sir Edu^ard, 222 «.

Coke, William, Esq., 229, 284,

317

Cokyn, William, Esq., 179

Colard, John, 234

Cole, Arthur, 92, 135

Cole, Rev. Thomas, i, 95«-

Coles, Eleanor, 293 ; George, 293 ;

Sarah, 293
Colman, John, 2 1 1
Colte, Joan, 191, 273; Thomas,

Esq., 191, 273
Coly, Thomas, 102, 137
Compton family, member of, 1 78

278 ; wife of, 278
Conquest, Elizabeth, 278 ; Richard,

Esq., 179, 278 _
Constable, John, 1 5 ; Katherme,

15 ; Sir Marmaduke, 23 «.
Constantine, Emperor, 76
Cooke, Joan, 294 ; John, 218, 294
Cookesey, Walter, Esq., 190
Cooper, C. H., F.S.A., 247 w.
Corbet family, man of, 282 ; wife

of, 282

Corbet, Jane, 286 ; John, Esq., 286
Cornelius, St., 56
Corner, G. R., F.S.A., 224«., 226«.
Cornewaylle, Dame , Elizabeth de,
245

Cornish, Bishop Thomas, 80 ».
Cornwall, John of Eltham, Earl

of, i^zn.
Corp, Elyenore, 244 «., 254 ; John,

201, 254
Cortewille, Ludowic, 9«., 10, 56
Coryton, Jane, 282; Peter, Esq.,

180, 282
Cosowarthe, John, 183
Cosyngton, John, Esq., 168, 262;

Sarra, 262
Cotman,J. S., i, 33»49»-» 53>64«.,

167, i87«., 235, 248 ».
Cotrel, James, 24 ».
Cottesmore, John, C.J., 227
Couderborch, Asscheric van der, 7
Coulthirst, Robert, 216

Courtenay, Sir Edward, 208 ; Sir Pe«s°
Peter, K.G., 186; Sir Philip,
279 ; Archbishop William, 79

Courthope, James, 87, 95

Covell, Thomas, Esq., 216

Covert, Elizabeth, 280; Henry,
Esq., 178 ; Richard, Esq., 280

Covesgrave, John, 202

Cracherood, Agnes, 283; John,
283

Cradock, Jane, 292 ; John, 292
CrafFord, Arthur, Gent., 215
Crane, Edward, 213 ; Sir Francis,
i88«. ; Henry, 140W. ; Joan,
269 ; Margaret, 269 ; William,
269

Cranley, Archbishop Thomas, 78,
79

Cranmer, Archbishop Thomas, 1 10
Crauden (Crowden), John de, 96
Crawford and Balcarres, Earl of,
48 «.

Creeny, Rev. W. F., i, 3» 7» i7>
25»., 26, 43 w., 47, 58-9» 64«-»
73,83, 126W., 129, i53«., 244«.

Creke, Dame Alyne de, 13, 241,
242 ; Sir John de, 152

Cremer, John, 215

Crespin, St., i89«.

Crespinian, St., i89».

Cressett, Richard, 1 5

Cressy, Cristina, 262, 265 ; John,
262

Crewaker, John, 71
Creyghton, Bishop, 108 «.
Crispe, Elizabeth, 290; Henry,
290

Crofton, William, Gent., B.C.L.,
234

Croke, John, 218

Cromwell, Ralph, Baron, K.G.,

67 »., 1 74, 1 86, 204 ; Humphrey

Bourchier, Lord, 296
Crosse, Ric, 1 5
Croston, Edmund, 94
Croyland, Abbot Godfrey de, 21

96

328

INDICES

Persons Crue, Silvanus, I 5

Cruwe, Juliana de, 256; Thomas

de, Esq., 167, 256
Cullum, Sir John, Bart., i
Culpeper, Sir Edward, 292 ; Eliza-
beth, 273, zj-jn.; Elizabeth,
278 ; Elizabeth, 292 ; Dame
Elizabeth, 292 ; Dame Jane,
292 ; Nicholas, Esq., 278 ; Sir
William, 292 ; William, 273,
277».

Cumberland, Henry Clifford, ist
Earl of, 188 ; Margaret Clifford,
Countess of, 188

Cuming, H.Syer, F.S.A.Scot., I99«.,
295 n.

Cumpton, Sir Robert de, 150

Cunynggam, Geo., 100

Curson, Dame Joan, 274 ; Sir John,

176, 274
Curtes, William, 100
Curteys, Albreda, 247 ; John, 201,

247

Curzon, Isabell, 28 1 ; Walter, Esq.,

39,281
Cusanos, Cardinal, 64 «.
Cuthbert, St., 68, 69 ».
Cutis, Rev. E. L., 3 «., jn.

D

D -, Canon John, 86 ».

Dagworth, Sir Nicholas, 159, 162
Dalison, 40

Dalyngrugge, Sir — ,251
Dalyson, Thomas, LL.B,, 88, 140
Dansell, Dame Margaret, 286; Sir

William, 286
Danvers, Dame Ann, 279; Dame

Ann, 281 ; Sir John, 279; Sir

John, 281
Darcel, Alfred, 5 n.
Darcy, John, Lord, 260 ; John,

S.L., 15, 230».
Darell, William, 71
D'Argenteine, Sir John, 159, 161,

316

Darley, John, 134; John, Gent.,
214

Daston, Anthony, Esq., 183
Daubeney, Sir Giles, 169, 260 ;

Dame Joan, 260 ; Dame Mary,

26o».

D'Aubernoun, Sir John, 8, 17, 20,
145, 147-8; Sir John, II., 152,
153

Daundelyon, John, 173
Dauntesay, John, Esq., 56, 177,
178

Davis, Cecil T., 104 i87».,

232»., 3I2».

Deane, Rev. John Bathurst, F.S.A.,
Sow.

Dearmer, Rev. Percy, iim.
Death, Ann, 289 ; Elizabeth, 289 ;

William, 235, 289
De la Hale, Edward, Esq., 191
Delamere, Isabella, 259; Richard,

Esq., 173, 259 ; Abbot Thomas,

43, 46-8, 53, 95
Dely, Margaret, 99
Demoke, Sir Robert, 179
Dencourt, Elizabeth, 268 ; Roger,

268

Dene, Archbishop Henry, 80
Denny, Edmunde, 1 1 ; Thomas,

11,12
Denton, Henry, loi
Denys, Morys, Esq., 178
Derby, Earl of, 116; see Richmond
Dermot, William, 139
D'Ertham, Adam, 91
Deryng, Julyen, 277
Des Essarts, Pierre, i66«.
Desford, John, 139
Despencer family, 155
Dethick family, 295 ».
Devenish family, lady of, 259
D'Evereux, see Salisbury
Devon, Baldwin de Redvers, Earl

of, 147 ».
Devonshire, Duke of, 188
D'Ewes, see Ewes
Digby, see Bristol

INDICES

329

Dillon, Viscount, \^6n., 168
177K.

Dirckz, Dirclc Alewyn, 289 ».
D'Iseni, Sir William, 150
Disney, Rev, Dr., t,6n.; Jane, 287 ;

Margaret, 284W. ; Nele, 287;

Richard, 287; William, Esq.,

56 ; i84». ; 284
Dixon, Nicholas, 231
Dixton, Richard, Esq., 173
Dobree, H. C. P., iiSn., i^^n.
Dod, Robert, 2 24«.
Dodding, Margaret, 290; Myles,

Esq., 290
Dodschone, Hen., 70
Donne, Dr., 23

Doreward, Isabella, 261 ; John,

Esq., 261
Douce, Francis, 49
Dowsing, Samuel, 3 1 «.
Dowsing, William, 30, 31
Drake, Mr., 32

Drake, Francis, Esq., 299 ; John,
299

Drax, Richard, 140
Drayton, Sir John, 190
Dreux, Robert, Count of, i^n.
Drew, Edward, Esq., S.L., 230^.
Drury family, lady of, 283 ; Dame

Margery, 256 ; Sir Roger, 256
Du Cange, Charles du Fresne Seigneur,

94«.

Dudley, see Northumberland
Dugdale, Sir William, ()n., 96, 223 «.,

225, 303
Duke, Anne, 283 ; George, Esq.,

283 ; George, Gent., 215
Dunch, Anne, 300 ; Anne, 300 ;

Henry, 300
Dunkin, E. H. W., 103
Duyse, Mons. van, 7
Dye, William, 1 16
Dymoke, Dame Elizabeth, 261 «.;

Sir Thomas, 261 n.
Dynne, Henry, Esq., 234
Dyson, Master Humphrey, 308
Dyson Richard Randall, l85-6».

Dyve, Sir John, 40, 263
Dyxon, Adam, 40 ; " vycar," 40

E

EcHYNGHAM, Elizabeth, 295 ;Danie
Joan, 259; Thomas, 295; Sir
William de, 161 ; Sir William,
169, 259

Edgcomb, Thomas, I37«.

Edvarod, Joane, 287//. ; Valontyne,
287».

Edward I., 19, 145, 243 «.
Edward II., 20, 150, 232 «.
Edward III., 21, 38, 42, 52, 155,

156, 161, 186, I98«., 243«.,

248, 253«., 254, 270
Edward IV., 169, 229, 271, 277,

303

Edward VI., 30, 102 k., 107, 193

284, 307
Edward the Black Prince, 6, i^jn.
Edward the Confessor, i68w.
Edward, John, 226, 232
Elcok, Christopher, 212; Ralph,

94

Eleanor, Queen, 58«.
Eligius, St., 52

Eliot, Barbara, 290 ; Roger, 290
Elizabeth, Queen, 24, lozn., lojn.,
108, now., 114, 133, 177, 183,
192, I93»., 213, 230W., 232».,
284, 285, 287, 288, 307, 308-10
Elizabeth Woodville, Queen, 277
Ellacombe, Rev. H. T., M.A., F.S.A.,
87 ».

Ellenbridge (Elyngbrigge) ,Thomas,

Esq., 64^.
Elliott, Rev. H. L., M.A., zy^n.
Elmebrygge, Roger, Esq., 169
Eltham, John of, see Cornwall
Elys, William, 231 ; William, 231
Empoli, Jacopo da, 67 «.
Engliss', Beneit, 199
Englissh, Sir Henry, 252 ; Dame

Margaret, 252
Eric Menved, King, 44, 58

330

INDICES

Ermyn, William, yzff., 90, 93
Erpingham, Sir John de, 167
Erton, John, 68

Essex, Henry Bourchier, K.G.,
Earl of, 171, 176, 186, 187, 191,
270; Isabel Plantagenet, Coun-
tess of, 191, 192, 270

Essex, John, Marbler, 303

Estbury, John de, 202

Estney, Abbot John, 95

Etampes, Charles Comte d', I49».

Ethelbald, King, 58».

Ethelbert, King of Kent, 58». ;
King, 58 w. ; St., 18, 63«., 81

Ethelred, St., King of West Saxons,
17, 58

Evelyn, George, Esq., 299 ; Sir
John, 299

Everard, Henry, Esq., 279 ; Mar-
garet, 279

Evreux, Jeanne, Countess of, 57». ;
Philippe, Comte d', 57».

Evyngar, Andrew, 55, 212, 276 «.,
277 ; Ellyn, 55, 277

Ewes, Adrian d', 286 «. ; Alice d',
286 «.

Eyer, John, Esq., 23l,"286; Mar-
garet, 286

Eynns, Elizabeth, z^n.

Eyre, Philip, 70 ; William, Esq.,
232

F

Fairbank, F. R., M.D., F.S.A., Sn.

Faireclough, Nathaniel, 28

Fairfax, Robert, 142

Fairholt, F. JV., \jon.

Faith, St., 96, 203, 263

Farrer, Rev. Edmund, 27, iSjn.,

i88«., 274W.
Farrington, Thomas, 79 «.
Fastolff, John, 1 1 ; Katherine, 1 1
Faversham, Dame Joan |de, 246 ;

John de, 200, 246
Feasey, Henry Phillbert, O.S.B., 74/?.
Felbrig, Alice de, 246 ; Elizabeth

de, 251 ; Roger de, 251 ; Simon
de, 201, 246
Felbrigge, Dame Margaret, 257;
Sir Simon, K.G., 165, 167, 186,
257

Feld, John, 218, 271 ; John, Esq.,
172

Felthorp, Cecily, 268 ; Roger, 207,
268

Fenner, Joan, 261
Fenton, John, 1 16
Fermer, Anne, 282 ; Richard, Esq.,
282

Fermoure, William, 234
Ferne, Bishop Henry, 1 14
Ferrers of Chartley, Margaret, Lady,

256; Robert, Lord, 167, 256
Ferrers of Groby, William, Lord,

252

Field, Rev. H. E., 32W.

Field, Rev. J. E., ()zn., 193 «.

Filmer, Sir Edward, 14, 55, 185,
186, 216, 291, 292; Dame
Elizabeth, 291, 292 ; Sir Robert,
186

Finiquerra, Mazo, i6».

Fisher, Bishop, 1 10

Fittz, Richard, 235

Fitzherbert, Sir Anthony, 97, 228,

240, 281: Jane, 56«, ; Dame

Mawde, 240, 281
Fitzherbert, Rev. R. H. C, 228/?.
Fitzjames, Isabella, zj^n., ijSn.;

John, 275 w.; Lady, zj6n.
FitzLewes, Dame Alice, 279; Dame

Elizabeth, 279; Dame Jane, 279;

Sir Richard, i8o«., 279
FitzLewis, John, 279 tz.
FitzPatrick, see Salisbury
Fitzralph, Sir — , 2 1 »., 151
Fitzwilliam, Elizabeth, 266 ; Eliza-
beth, 296 ; George, Esq., 296 ;

William, Esq., 8«., 172, 266
Fleming, Alan, 43, 46, 48-9, 197,

198, 202
Flemyng, Thomas, 140
Fletcher, William, 218

INDICES

331

Folcard, Richard, 136
Forde, Edmund, Esq., 207
Forester, F"^. Martin', 97 w.
Forster family, 3 5 ; a widow of,
266

Fortescue, Henry, Esq., 289, 294«.;
Sir John, C.J., 222, 223, 226
Dame Mary, 289, 294«.

Fortey, John, 208 ; Thomas, 207

Fortibus, de, see Albemarle

Foss, Edward, F.S.A., i89«.

Fossebrok, John, Esq., 261 ; Ma-
tilda, 261

Fosset, Franfoise du, 56

Foster, Joseph, 5 n.

Fowler, James, F.S.A., io9«.

Fowler, Rev. J. T., M.A., F.S.A.,
j6n.

Fowler, Richard, Esq., 175
Fox, Bishop, 1 10

Foxley, Dame Joan de, 250; Sir
John de, 250; Dame Matilda
de, 250

Foxwist, Richard, 235

Framlingham, John, 263 ; Mar-
garet, 263

Frankelin, Frances, 289 ; Richard,
289

Frankishe, Dorothy, 202
Fransham, Geoffrey, Esq., 167
Fraunces, Jane, 287; Michael, Esq.,

214, 287
Frekylton, Henry, 100
Freme, William, 211
Freney, Archbishop William de, 4
Frere, Rev. W. H., i37».
Freshfield, Edzvin, LL.D., 37
Freville, Claricia de, 255^. ; Mar-
garet de, 265 ; Robert de, Esq.,
163, 255 «.; Thomas de, Esq.,
163, 265
Frilende, Walter, 71, 83
Frogenhall, John, Esq., 191
Fromond, Elizabeth, 281, 298;

Thomas, Esq., 82, 213, 281, 298
Frowsetoure, Dean Edmund, 89,
94, 126, 129

Frye, John, loi, 138

Fryth, William, 134

Fulburne, William de, 89, 93

Fulwode, Robert, 233

Furnivall, Frederick J., 285 «.

Fyche, Geoffrey, 95

Fyn, Robert, 70 ».

Fynderne, Elizabeth, 259; Wil-
liam, Esq., 166, 167, 259

Fyneux, Dame Elizabeth, 284/;. ;
Sir John, 284??.

Fynexs, John, 94

Fysher, John, Esq., 179

G

Gabriel, Archangel, 84«., 92
Gadburye, Margaret, 290; Richard,

215, 290
Gage, Sir John, K.G., .i88». ;

Dame Phillipa, 188??.
Gaignihes,M. de, 7«., 2 8«., 27o«.
Galychtly, Johanes de, 206 n. ;

Mariota de, 206 «.
Garbrand, John, D.D., 116
Gardiner, Robert, 218; William,

216

Gardner, J. Starkie, $n., 6n.
Garet, Robert, 235
Garland, Thomas, 2 1 5
Gascoigne,Thomas, 1 2 6«., Thomas,

Esq., 182K. ; Sir William, 181;

Sir William, C.J., 227 n.
Gaspar, Luke, 295 ; Ursula, 295
Gaynesford, Margaret, 85, 274;

Nicholas, Esq., 85, 191, 274
Geddyng, William, 105
Gee, Henry, 187
George, St., 155
Gerard, Piers, Esq., 181
Gery, Roger, 139
Geste, Bishop Edmund, 1 1 3
Gibbes, Ann, 292; Henry, 216,

292

Giffard, Sir John, 34, 154, 156,
161 «.

Gilbert, Sir John, z'j'jn.

332

INDICES

Persons Gildesburgh, Marjorle de, 249 ».

Gironde, Jean d'Aragon, Due de,
57»-; Jeanne, Duchesse de,
57«.

Gladwin, John, 2 1 5

Gloucester, Alianore de Bohun,
Duchess of, 2 2»., 248 ; Thomas
of Woodstock, Duke of, 22«.,
248, 270

Glover, R., 311

Glynne, William, 299 ; William,
299

Goberd, William, 94, 141

Goche, William, 132

Goddard, Guybon, S.L., 231 ;

Thomas, 2 1 1
Godeale, Roger, 10 1
Godfrey, Robert, 107
Goldingham,Jane, 282; John, 282;

Thomasine, 282
Goldwell, Avice, 269 ; Nicholas,

137; William, 210, 269
Gondeby, Hugo de, 204
Goodman, Ciselye, iizn., 282,

298; Edward, 112;/., 217;/.,

282, 298 ; Dean Gabriel, Ii2«.,

2 17«.

Goodryke, Bishop Thomas, 72, 74,
75, 80, 83

Goodwin, Anna, 1 1 4 «. ; Dean Wil-
liam, 114;;.

Goodzvin, Gordon, 1 1 4 ».

Goodwyn, Robert, 212, 283; Sa-
bina, 283

Goolde, John, 136

Gore, Maria, 98 ; Nichol de, 64

Gorges, Sir Arthur, 185, 292 ; the
Lady Elizabeth, 292

Gorka, Bishop Vrielis de, 83

Gorynge, Dame Elizabeth, 285 ;
Sir William, 285

Gough, Richard, i, 7, \\n., 29, 30,

96»., i89»., 303s.
Gower, John, 204 «.
Graffton, Adam, 89, 94
Grandisson, Bishop John, 3 1 1

Grandmaison, Millin de, i66n,ijc,n.

Gray, Andrew, Esq., 233; Arch-
bishop Walter, 69 «.

Green, J. R., ii^n.

Greenwood, Benjamin, Esq., 26,
2i7» 293 ; Philadelphia, 26, 293

Gregory, St., 64^., 68, 75, loi

Grene, Agnes, 275 ; Edmund, 275 ;
Henry, Esq., 266; Margaret,
266; Dame Matilda, 266;
Richard, lOO; Sir Thomas, 171,
173, 266; Walter, Esq., 174

Grenefeld, Archbishop William, 64,

7S,79f 83 «.
Greve, Fr. Thomas, 97 «.
Grevel, Marion, 253; William,

201, 253
Greville, Sir Edward, 179, 182;

Sir John, 182; Thomas, 23;

Sir William, 228
Grey, Sir Anthony, 175, 191 ;

Edmund, Esq., 232 «.; Dame

Emma, 269 ; Sir Henry, 269 ;

Elizabeth, de, i8o«. ; Grace de,

276; Mary de, 276; Thomas

de, Esq., 180W. ; William de,

Esq., 276
Grey de Ruthin, Roger Grey, Lord,

I55» 316

Grey de Wilton, Arthur, Lord,

i88«. ; Richard, Lord, 180
Grigs, Fr., 15, z^on.
Grovehurst, John de, 57, 70
Gueldres, Adolphus, Duke of, 59 ;

Katharine, Duchess of, 59
Guise, — , Esq., 191
Gunner, Rev. William H., M.A.,

z^on.
Gunter, John, 216
Guyldeford, Sir Edward, K.G.,

i88«.

Guyldeford (Guildford), see North-
umberland
Gybbys, William, 210
Gybon, Thomas, Gent., 176
Gyffard, Roger, Esq., 166 n.
Gyll, Richard, Esq., 180

INDICES

333

H

Hacombleyn, Robert, 95
Haines, Rev. Herbert, i, 2, 3»., 5,
6, 7, 14, i7«., 19, 24, 26, 27,
29-307 39»'> 53> 64»., 96, 108
123, 124, 129, 131, i34-4^>
i6i«., i66»., 167, 185, i89».,
201, 202, 205, 207, 2i4»., 217,
279»., 285W.
Haitfeld, Ada de, 256 ; Robert de,

203, 256
Hakebech, Sir Adam de, 150
Hakebourne, Richard de, 63, 71, 83
Halle, Elizabeth, 258 ; Peter, Esq.,
167, 168, 258; Thomas, Esq.,
179

Hallum, Bishop Robert, 57, i87».

Halsham, Sir Hugh, 167, 259;
John, 259; Dame Joice, 259;
the Lady Philippa, 259

Hampden, Sir John, 181 ; John,
Esq., 179

Hampton, Dame Alice, 99 ; Isa-
bella, 272 »., 298; John, 99;
Thomas, Esq., 176, 272 w., 298

Hamsterley, Ralph, 25

Hanensee, Eghardus de, 72 ; iz6n.

Hansard family, knight of, l68«.

Hansart, Anthony, Esq., 178K.,
279 ; Katherine, 279

Hanson, Robert, 39

Hardy, T. Duffus, 1 1 5 ».

Hardyng, Robert, 193

Hare, Nicholas, Esq., 232

Harflet or Harflete, see Septvans

Hargreve, Geoffrey, 138

Harlakynden, Thomas, Esq., 181

Harlestone, Alice, 279

Harpedon, Sir John, 169, 264

Harper, Dame Margaret, 287 ; Sir
William, 183, 218, 287

Harris, George, 1 5

Harsick, Dame Catherine, 248 ; Sir
John, 161, 248

Harsnett, Archbishop Samuel, 30,
55> 75» 76»-, 108, 113-14

Hart, Boneface de, 2 1 «.

Harte, Malyn, 284; Thomas, 284

Hartshome, Albert, F.S.A., i89».

Hartshorne, Rev. C. H., 8

Harvey, W., 209/?.

Harvye, Sir Jarrate, 184

Harwedon, Margery, 265 ; Wil-
liam, Esq., 265

Hastings, Sir Hugh, 8, 43, 49-50,
5i> 53> 154; Ralph, 204». ; see
Pembroke

Hatche, Henry, 212, 276, 316;
Joan, 276

Hatton, Mary, 290 ; Richard, 290

Hauley, Alice, 248 ; Joan, 248 ;
John, Esq., 163, 248

Haultoft, Gilbert, 231 ; Margaret,

231

Hautryve, William, 125, 130
Hawberk, John, 299 ; Sir Nicholas,

264, 299
Hawford, Edward, 129
Hawkesworth, William, I27».
Hawkins, Aphra, 290; Henry, 290;

Thomas, Esq., 184
Haydock, Dr. Richard, 14
Hayton, Robert, Esq., \6\n.
Hay ward, Richard, 126, 130
Heere, Gerard de, 44, 5 1 ; John

de, 44, 5 1
Hefner- A Iteneck, J. H. von, I24».,

297».

Heies, Humphrey, 215; Hum-
phrey, junr., 215

Heigham, Dame Anne, 286 ; Dame
Anne, 286; Sir Clement, 229,
286

Hellard, Stephen, 139
Hemenhale, Sir Robert, 264
Henry II., 5 n.

Henry IV., 22, 156, I57«., 164,
i89«., 202, 2o6«., 2zjn.

Henry IV. of France, 289 «.

Henry V., 57, i<^6n., 164, 192,
227

Henry VI., 164, i66»,, 169, 186,
224, 231, 303, 304

334

INDICES

Persons Henry VII., 22, 1 7 1, 177, 189,
247«., 275, 303
Henry VIII., 29, 74«., I26«., 180,
190, 192, 21 1, 230, 232«., 280,
307,311

Henry, St., of Finland, Bishop,
43-4 »•

Hereford, Humphrey de Bohun,
Earl of, 152 n.

Heringen, John de, \26n.

Hermanzone, Arnold, 54». ; Cor-
nelius, 54 «.

Heron, Alice, 286 ; Thomas, 142 ;
William, Esq., 286

Hert, James, 93, 134, 315

Hertcombe, John, 210, 274;
Katherine, 274

Hertford, William, Earl of, 299

Hervey, Abbess Elizabeth, 98

Herward, Anne, 273 ; Robert, 273

Hesilt, William, 266

Heth, John, 93

Hevenyngham, Anne, 275 ; Tho-
mas, Esq., 181, 275, 316

Hewett, William, 82

Hewitt, John, 2427/.

Hewke, Walter, 93, 130

Heylesdone, Beatrice de, 200, 246 ;
Richard de, 200, 246

Heyward, William, 1 29

Higate, Thomas, Esq., 184

Higgins, Thomas, 15

Hildesley, Mrs., 3 1

Hobart, Frances, 290; Henry, Esq.,
184; James, Esq., 214, 290

Hodges, George, 185

Hogenbergh, Abraham, 14; Re-
migius, 14

Holbein, Hans, 280, 283 w.

Holcot, Robert, 91

Holden, Agnes, 283 ; William,
283

Holes, Sir Hugh de, 227
Holl, Thomas, 216; Thomas, Esq.,
216

Holland, see Kent
Hollar, Wenceslaus, 291

Hollis, Thomas and George, i89«.,

240 242 »., 280
Holloway, Henry Richard, \n.
Holte, Thomas, Esq., 228
Honywode, Robert, 132
Hop, Thomas de, 71
Hope, W. H. St. John, M.A., 84».,

96, 97»., i88«.
Hopper, Thomas, 14
Hord, Dame Frances, 292 ; Sir

Thomas, 292
Hornbie, Gabr., 15
Hornby, Jane, 279
Hornebolt, Gerard, I4«., 55
Horsey, John, Esq., 180
Horton, Thomas de, 43, 49-50,

S3, 70, loi
Hotham, John, 128
Hoton, Joan, 263 ; Robert, 263
Hotspur, see Percy
Hovener, Albert, 44, 50-2
Howard, Catherine, 281 ; Lady

Katherine, 187W., 280; Lord

William, 281 ; Norfolk
Huddesfeld, Dame Katherine, 279 ;

Sir William, 279
Huddleston, Anthony, Esq., 287 ;

Mary, 287
Hudson, Franklin, 1
Huggeford, Thomas, 303
Hull, William, 84«.
Humfray, Hugo, 135
Humfre, Joan, 64/?. ; Thomas, 15,

64 ».

Huntington, John, 94, 139
Hurry, Jamieson B., M.A., M.D.,

\z6n.
Hurst, Leonard, 1 1 5
Hutton, — , 281 ; wife of, 28 1
Hyde, Ann, 300; Barnard, Esq.,

300; Laurence, Esq., 214;

William, 38
Hyett, H., iz^n.
Hyklott, Margaret, 99 w. ; William,

99 «.

Hyldesley, William, 215
Hyll, Walter, 89, 138

INDICES

335

Hylle, Thomas, 128

Ifield, Sir John de, 152 «.
Ingeborg, Queen, of Denmark, 44,

58, 244 ».
Inglisshe, Alexander, 10 1
Ingylton, Clemens, 269; Isabella,

269; Margaret, 269; Robert,

Esq., 175, 232, 269, 271, 317
Isabella of Bavaria, Queen of France,

258

Iwarby, Dame Jane, 279 ; Sir John,
279

J

James I., 193 «., 214

James, St., 84

James^ Dr. M. R., 44

James, Roger, 214

Jarmon, Anna, z6zn.\ Henry,

210«. ; 262».

Jassy, George, 136

Jay, Joan, 298 ; John, 298

Jean of France, son of Louis VIII.

16; son of St. Louis IX., 5«. '
Jeane, Queen of Navarre, 56».
Jeans^ Rev. G. E., yn., 261 w.
Je^i>, Rev. John^ M.A., \ \zn.
Jemlae, Rice, 117
Jenyns, Jane, 287; Raphe, Esq.,

183,287,316 ' ^'

Jernemu... (Yarmouth), William

97

Jerome, St., 63, 64 «.
Jewitt^ Llezvellynn, F.S.A., 8o».,
i98«., 295».

Joan of Navarre, Queen, i89«.,

206 «.
Jocelin, Bishop, 4
John I. of Portugal, 262
John Baptist, St., 104
John, Sir Levies, 272 ; Margaret

272 '

Johnson, Hugh, iijn.; Peter, loo
Johnston, C. £., zzyn.

Johnys, Sir Hugh, 180, 193
Jombharte, William, 140, 315
Jones, Rev. Canon W. H., ^n.
Jones, William, Gent., 216
Jordan, Agnes, 98
Jugee, Archbishop Pierre de la,
48 w.

Juyn, Sir John, C.J., 227
K

Katherine, St., 94
Katherine of Aragon, Queen, 58«.,
311

Kegell, Richard, 134
Kelke,Rev. W. Hastings.^ 106 n.
Kelly, lohanna, 262
Kendale, Richard, 100
Kent, John, 141 -2, 316; John,
2I4». ; John, Esq., 216, 291 ;
Mary, 291 ; Thomas Holland,
Earl of, 269
Kenvs^ellmersh, Mrs. Ann, 292
Kerdeston, Dame Cecilia de, 251,
316; Sir William de, 161, 251
Keriell, Jane, 269
Keyt, Jerome, 140
Kidw^elly, Geoffrey, Esq., 210
KilligreviT, John, Esq., 184
King, John, Gent., 216
King, Thomas Wm.^ F.S.A., ii5«.
Kirby, Thomas Frederick, M.A., 316
Kite, Edward, 1 1 w., 17, 21 »., 103,
249«.

Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 293
Knevet, Elizabeth, 279; Sir Wil-
liam, 279

Knevynton, Ralph de, 43 , 1 5 7 i r o,
161

Knight, Bishop, 3 1 1

Kniveton, Joan, 296, 317; Nicho-
las, Esq., 191, 296

Knox, A., 115 n.

Knox, John, 125 «.

Knyghtley, Sir Edmund, 284^. ;
Thomas, Esq., 181 ; Dame Ur-
sula, 284W.

Persons

336

INDICES

Persons Knyvet, John, Esq., \6']n.

Kyggesfolde, Agneys de, 200, 246,

316; John de, 200, 246
Kyllygrewe, Thomas, 210
Kyllyngworth, John, 136
Kyngdon, Johanna, 269 ; Roger,

94, 208, 2I4«., 269, 298
Kyngeston, John, 294 ; Dame

Susan, 98, 294
Kyngston, Dame Elizabeth, 187;

Sir William, K.G., 187
Kyrkeby, William, 88
Kyrkeham, Robert, 104

L

Lace'j^ Rev. T. A.^ 103 «., 109,
1 2 1 »., 123 ;;.

Lacon family, member of, 175,
273 ; wife of, 273

Lacroix, Paid, 52«., 103 «.

Lacy, Peter de, 70

Lake, Bishop Arthur, 114

Laken, Sir William, 227

Lambarde, Anne, 274; John,'94«.,
218, 274

Lambespring, Bartholomew, 304-5

Lancaster, Aveline, Countess of,
239«., 243 «.; Edmund Crouch-
back, Earl of, I56«. ; Henry
Plantagenet, Earl of, 155; House
of, 22, 188

Langeland, William, 222 2 24».

Langeton, Canon William, 88

Langham, George, Esq., 266 ; Isa-
bella, 266

Langley, Prior Geoffrey, 96 ; Wil-
liam, 102

Langton, Dame Eufemia, 266 ; Sir
John, 172, 266 ; Robert, 89, 93,
132 ; Archbishop Stephen, 123 ;
William, 100

Latham, Grace, 296

Laud, Archbishop William, 115,
1 25 w.

Launceleyn, John, Esq., 165,, 169
263 ; Margaret, 263, 316

Lawnder, William, 107

Lawrence, St., 72«., 84 «.

Lee, Rev. Frederick George, D.D.,

F.S.A., 75 Ill n.
Leeds, Edward, 1 3 1
Leek, Simon, 260W.
Legg, J. Wickham, M.D., F.S.A.,

73«., 74W., 78«., 84«., !86ff.,

1 10, I29«.
Legh, Elizabeth, 64W.; Dame Ellen,

279; Sir Peter, 83, 180, 279;

Roger, 64»., loi
Leigh, Thomas, 54 «.
Leland, John, 16
Lely, Sir Peter, 293
Leman, Thomas, 107
Le Moigne family, member of, 2 5 5 ;

Maria, his wife, 255
Lence, Stephen, 1 1 5 w.
Le Neve, John, 1 1 5 «.
V Estrange, John, 2^2 n.
L'Estrange, Sir Roger, 179, 18 1
Le Straunge, Sir Thomas, 191
Letarous, i/\.n.
Lethenard, John, 208
Leventhorp, Edward, Esq., 184;

Edward, Esq., 288, 289 ; Eliza-
beth, 289 ; (Leenthorp), John,

Esq., 178 ; Mary, 288
Leventhorpe, John, Esq., 169, 264,

316; Katherine, 264
Leverick, Sir John, i58«.
Leveson, Nicholas, 218
Lewenstein, Glorius Count of,

126/Z.
Lewis, David, I32».
Lewys, John, 104
Lichefeld, William, 1 3 1
Liddel, Duncan, 133
Liddell, H.G., Dean, ^-J n.
Lindewode, Bishop William, io8ff.,

133

Lippe, Bishop Bernard de, 57, 74»->
83

Lloyd, Griffin, 116; Hugh, 132

Lloyde, David, 139

Lockhart, Rev. William, 6^n., 88 «.

INDICES

337

Lodge^ Edmund^ F.S.A., z%on,

Lodyngton, William, 227

Loggan, David, izm.

Loncin, Antone de, 3

Lond, Robert, 101

London, John, 138

Longe, Anne, 288 ; GyfFord, 288 ;

Henry, Esq., i66». ; Robert,

i66ff.

Lorenzetti, Pietro, 48 ».
Louis VIIL, 16
Louis IX., St., 5».
Louth, Nicholas de, 91
Lovell, Anne, 286; Gregory, Esq.,
286

Lovelle, John, 88

Loveney, William, Esq., 163

Lowe, Sir John, 1 64

Lowthe, John, 131, 132, 315

Lucas, Abbot John, 95 ». ; William,

95«. ; William, M.A., 116
Ludsthorp, William, Esq., 171
Luke, Nycholas, Esq., 229; Sir

Walter, 228
Lumbarde, John, 22
Lupton, Roger, 92
Luttrell, Sir Andrew, 161
Lyndewode, Alice, 132, 265; John,

132, 204, 265, 299 ; John, junr.,

205 ; William, see Lindewode
Lyon, John, 215

Lyons, Lieut.-Col. Croft, 312;

Raphe, 141 n.
Lyra, Nicholas de, 69 ».
Lysle, Sir John, 168
Lyte, H. C. Maxwell^ C.B., 23o«.
Lyte, Thomas, 230». ; William,

S.L., 23o».
Lytkot, Christopher, Esq., 179,

284, 316; Katherine, 284

M

Macalhter, R. A. S., 32?/., 63 77
Machlin, Rev. H. W., 1 9, 34^., 1 24«.
Macnamara, F. N.y 1 63 n.

Magnus, Archdeacon Thomas, 89,

90, 94
Maitland, William, 166 n.
Malford, Richard, 89
Mallet, Richard, 15
Mallevorer, John, Esq., 185
Malmaines, Richard, Esq., 169
Malster, William, 134
Maltoun, John, Esq., 174
Malyns, Reginald de, 251
Manchester, Earl of, 3 i
Manfeld, Isabel, 295; Richard,

208 ; Robert, 295
Mann, J., 15 ; Thos., 15
Manners family, member of, 191
Manning, Percy, M.A., F.S.A., i4^n.
Mannock, Dame Dorothy, 291;

Sir Francis, Bart., 291
Manston, Nicholas, Esq., 165, 191
Mapilton, John, 90, 93
March, Roger Mortimer, Earl lof,

269

March eford, Simon, 92 w.
Mareys, Thomas, 136; William,
Esq., 174

Marie de France, daughter of
Charles IV., 56 «,

Markenfield, Sir Thomas, 191 «.

Markham, John, C.J., 229

Marriott, Rev. W. 5., 75, 86, 108 n.

Marshall, Edward, 14, 55s., 185*.;
Richard, 100

Marsham, Elizabeth, 283 ; John,
64»., 212, 218, 283

Martin, St., 94«. ; Henry, 71

Martok, John, 133

Martyn, Anna, 259 ; Prioress Eliza-
beth, 98^.; John, 227, 259;
Richard, 203, 263 ; wife of, 263

Mary, Queen, lo-jn., 192, 229,
284

Marzi, Bishop Angelo, 67 ».
Masaccio, 105 ».

Mason, Henry, 117 ; Thomas, 137
Massingberd, Rev. W. O., 256

Massyngberde, Dame Johanna, 190,
256; Sir Thomas, 190, 256

338

INDICES

Persons Mauleverer, Elizabeth, 15

Mauleverere, Dame Elianor, 252;

Sir John, 162, 252
Mauntell, Sir Walter, 178
"Max," 13

Maynwaryng, William, 210
Mayo, Charles, M.D., lyw.
Mayo, Rev. Canon C. H., 11, 987/.
Mayo, John H., 189W.
Mayo, Bishop Richard, 2«., 81-2
Mede, Philip, Esq., 179
Memling, Hans, 64 ».
Mentmore, Abbot Michael de, 43,
48

Mershden, John, 92 s.
Merton, Bishop Walter de, 61
Meryng, Dame Millicent, 257,

261, 316; Sir William, 261
Meyrick, Samuel Rush, 145
Michael, St., 84«., 268
Micklethzuaite, J. T., F.S.A., 11 1«.
Middiltoun, William de, I27«.
Mierevelt, zSgn.
Milbourn, Thomas, 30«.
Millar, A. H., F.S.A. Scot., 206;/.
Millard, James Elwin, 54«.
Mohun, Anne, 278 ; John, Esq.,

179, 278 ; Thomas de, Esq.,

173

Molyneux, Dame Elizabeth, 2847/.;

Dame Jane, 284». ; Sir Richard,

183 ; Sir William, 182, 284 «.
Molyngton, Dame Agnes, 266 ;

Sir Thomas, 266
Molyns, Dame Margery, 265 ; Sir

William, 168, 265
Mond, William, 210
Montacute, Elizabeth, Lady, 198s.,

245 n. ; see Salisbury
Montagu, Sir Edward, 223 ».
Montalt, Sir Robert de, zm.
Montfaucon, Bom Bernard de, 16,

28«., 56, 57«., 135, 242«.
Montmorency, Charles de, 56;/.
Moor, William, 134
Moore, John, 95
Moote, Abbot John de la, 40

Mordon, Thomas, 90, 140
Moreelse, Paul, 289 ».
Morewood, Grace, 15, 293 ; John,

15, 216, 293
Morgan, Octavius, l^zn.
Morrey, Thomas, 1 1 5 «.
Mortimer, see March
Morton, John, Cardinal, 64 w.
Morys, John, 94

Mostyn, Dame Mary, 15; Sir

Roger, 15
Mott, James, 233
Mottesfont, John, 139
Mountague, Thomas, 2I4«.
Mountain, Archbishop George,

1 15 «.

Mountford, Agnes, 99, 105, 267 ;
Cecily, 99; Henry, 105; Tho-
mas, Esq., 99, 105, 267
Mul, Bishop Johan de, 44, 52, 315
Mullinger, James Bass, M.A., izm.
Mulsho, Joan, 263 ; John, Esq.,

203, 263
Mundeford, Francis, Esq., 282;

Margaret, 282
Murray, the Regent Earl of, 27
Muscote, John, Gent., 234
Musgrave, Dorcas, 290 ; Thomas,
Esq., 290

N

Naylor, Edward, 117
Neele, William, 8o»., 315
Nelond, Prior Thomas, 79, 96
Neve, Francis, 290; Hester, 290
Nevell, Sir Edward, 24?/.; Sir

Thomas, 213
Nevill, see Warwick
Neville, Sir Thomas, 267
Nevynson, Thomas, Esq., 183
Newcome, Rev. Richard, ziyn.
Newdegate, John, S.L., 231
Newport, Wenefride, 296
Newton, Sir Richard, C.J., 227 ».
Nicholas, St., 52
Nichols, J. B., 29, 35

INDICES

339

llichoh^ J. G., i88«.

Noke, Thomas, Esq., 214, 286;

his three wives, 286
Norbury, Dame Anna, 266 ; Sir

Henry, 266
"Norden^ John, 9».

Norfolk, Agnes, Duchess of, 187,
278 Thomas Howard, ist
Duke of, K.G., 280 ; Thomas
Howard, 2nd Duke of, 187 ; see
Howard

N orris, Hugh, 260 «.

North, Richard, 72

Northen, Robert, 100

Northumberland, Henry Percy,
Earl of, 1 88 ; Lady Jane Guylde-
ford. Duchess of, i88«., 285;
John Dudley, Duke of, 285

Northwode, Dame Joan de, 56,
242; Sir John de, 56, I50».,
152, 153; John, 278; wife of,
278 ; family, member of, 175

Norton, Dame Alice, 215, 287;
Sir John, 287; John, 91, 96;
Richard, C.J., 227
Norwiche, John, 262 «.; Maud,

262 w.; William, 217
Notingham, Herry, 2 3»., 203, 253 ;
his wife, 253

o

Oker, Humphrey, Esq., 39, 260 ;

Isabell, 260 ; their children, 297
Oldcastle, Sir John, 264
Ord, Craven, i, 33
Ormunde, Earl of, see Bullen
Osborne family, member of, 294 s. ;

Julian, his wife, 294».
Oskens, Henry, 56
Oswyn, St., 47
Otho, Cardinal, I03».
Oudeby, John, 90 «.
Ouds, Thomas, 84
Ouvry, Frederic, F.S.A., 224?/.
Overbury, William, 202

Oxenbrigg,Agnes, 295 ; Robert, 295
Oxford, Elizabeth de Vere, Coun-
tess of, 281, 312 ; John de Vere,
Earl of, 281, 312

P

Pabenham, Dame Elizabeth, 262 ;

Sir Laurence, 262
Page, Arthur, 290 ; Sessely, 290
Page, William, F.S.A., 43«., 84».,

142

Pagge, Margaret, 264, 297; Robert,

207, 208, 264, 297
Palmer, John, 141 ; Thomas, 233
Palmer-Palmer, Rev. J. R., 26
Parice, Henry, Esq., 171
Paris, Alienora de, 246 ; Robert

de, 198, 246
Parker, John, 207
Parker, John Henry, 18
Parker, Archbishop Matthew, Sfw.,

1 10, 1 13 w.
Parkers, Roger, 92
Parsons, Ralph, 312
Patesley, Thomas, 90
Paul, St., 47, 84, 104
Paulet family, 193 ».
Paycock, Joan, 283 ; John, 283 ;

family, member of, 274; two

wives of, 274
Payn, John, Esq., 179; William,

2I4».

Payton, Mary, 287; Richard, 214,

233,287
Peck, Rev. Francis, 32
Peckham, Amphillis, 38, 296; Sir

Edmund, 296 ; James, Esq., 177
Pecok, John, 201
Peeche, Sir William, 178-9
Pekham, Joyce, 279 ; Reynold, 279
Peletoot, Sir Philip, 160
Pembridge, Sir — , ic,zn.
Pembroke, Aymer de Valence,

Earl of, I56«. ; William dc

Valence, Earl of, 6, 18, 57;

Lawrence Hastings, Earl of, 155

340

INDICES

Persons Pgn, John, Esq., 292 ; Sarah, 292
Penhallinyk, Warin, 94, 139, 315
Pennebrygg, Sir Fulk, 254; Dame

Margaret, 254
Perch, John, 140
Perchehay, Radulphus, 71
Percy, Henry "Hotspur," 257
Perdrier, Jean, 135
Perepoynt, Elizabeth, 28 1 ; George,

Esq., 281
P^rry, 295 ».

Peryent, Joan, 190, 261 ; John,

Esq., 167, 190, 261, 316; John,

junr., Esq., 167
Pescod, Walter, 201
Peter, St., 47, 6jn., 84, 104;

Bishop, iz6n.
Pettwode, — , 282 ; Margaret, 282
Pever, Thomas, 296
Peyton, John, 34; Margaret, 273 ;

Margaret, 273 ; Thomas, Esq.,

175, 273
Peytone, Sir John de, 150

Phelip, Dame Christina, 269 ; Sir
John, 165, 190, 261 ; Dame
Matilda, 190, 257, 261 ; Mat-
thew, 269

Philip, Bishop, I4«.

Philippa ofHainault, Queen, 253ff.

Philippe le Bel, 56 w.

Philippe, son of Louis VIII., 16

Phillips^ Claude^ 289 ».

Piatus, St., 3

Pierson, John, 15

Piggot, John, F.S.A., 151 ».

Pisan, Christine de, 258ff.

Plain, Guillaume de, i\n.

Planche, J. R., S"-, 69, ijon.,
i89«., 192//., i98»., 203ff.,
2o6»., 209»., 226»., 24o»;,
247»., 258».. 270W., 271, 272W.,
284«., 289»., 293

Plantagenet, the Lady Anne, 270 ;
see Anjou, Cambridge, Essex,
Gloucester, Lancaster, Richmond

Playters, Anna, 273 ; Christopher,
Esq., 176; Thomas, Esq., 171,

175, 273; Thomasine, 2S7;

William, Esq., 287
Plessi, Johane, 244s., 245, 295
Plewme, William, 137
Plumleigh, Barbara, 290 ; John,

290

Pole, Dame Joan de la, 250; Sir

John de la, 250 ; see Suftblk
Pollard, Aly anora, 262 ; John, 262
Polton, Edith, 263 ; Archdeacon

Philip, 91, 138, 263; Thomas,

204, 205, 263
Poo/e, Rev. G. J., sSn.
Popham, Sir John, 38
Porte, Elizabeth, 294 ; Henry,

294

Porieous, W. W.^ 2iw., 27, 105 s.

Porter, John Alt, iS6».

Porter, William, 135

Portyngton, Thomas, 91

Potter, Thomas, 212

Pettier, Andre, igzn.

Poulett, Margaret, 290 ; Nicholas,

Esq., 185, 290
Powis, Sir Edward Charlton, Lord,

269; Eleanor, Lady, 269
Pownder, Emma, 276 ; Thomas,

54, 212, 276
Powys, John ap Meredyth de, 1 1

lOI

Poyle, Elizabeth, 262 ; John, Esq.,
168, 262

Prelatte, William, Esq., 175

Prestwyk, William, 90, 93

Price, Abbot Hugo, 95 ».

Prideaux, Agnes, ii^n.; John,
114W. ; Bishop John, 114

Procter, William, 117

Prophete, John, 93

Pugin, A. W., 43, 48

Pulling, Alexander, S.L., 221-3,
226»., 230^.

Purdaunce, Margaret, 266 ; Rich-
ard, 217, 266

Pursglove, Bishop Robert, 74, 75//.,
81, 107W.

Pury, Nicholas, Esq., 233

INDICES

34^

Pygott, Thomas, S.L., 230
Pyke, John, 38, 97 .
Pyrton, Dame Catherine, 267 ; Sir
William, 191, 209 «., 267

Q

QUARTREMAYN, Joan, 265, 3 17;

Katherine, 261, 316; Thomas,
261, 316; Thomas, Esq., 265,

317

Quartremayns, Richard, Esq., 171,

175, 268 ; Sybil, 268
Quek, John, 207 ; Richard, 208
Quentin, St., 72»., 84.

R

Rabenstain, Eberard de, 87».,

12611.
RadclifF, Richard, 133
Raine, Rev. Jmnes, M.A., 1 5 «., 68 ».,

69 ».

Raine, Rev. James, M.A., junr.,
i07«.

Raleigh, Sir Walter, 193 ».

Rampston, Robert, zi\n.

Randoll, Elizabeth, 232». ; Wil-
liam, 232«.

Randolph, William, 216

Rashdall, Rev. Hastings.^ M.A., 121 ».

Rashleigh, Alice, 289; John, 289

Ratclifte, Dame Joan, 296 ; Sir
Robert, 296

Raynsford, Hercules, Esq., 183

Rede, Ann, 285 ; George, 92, 105 ;
John, S.L., 230; John, 135;
Peter, Esq., 176, 285

Redprn, W. B., 108 315

Redford, Sir Henry, 251 ; Dame

Redvers, de, see Devon

Reves, Thomas, 116

Reynes, Agnes, 266 ; Thomas,

Esq., 174, 266
Ribera, see Alcala
Rice, Robert Garratvay^ 6\n.

Richard II., 19, 156, 168, 203 ».,

206 »., 255 ».
Richard III., 169, 274
Richardson, Edmund, 82
Richardson, Edzvard, 204^., 2o6«.
Richers, William, 100
Richmond and Derby, Margaret,

Countess of, 247 «.
Ridley, Bishop, 1 10
Rickman, Thomas, 18
Rikhill, Catherine, 262 ; William,

262

Robertson, Professor J. C, 1 1 1 «.
Robertson, Canon Scott, Z\n.
Robinson, Bishop Henry, 14, 77,

113, 1 1 7 ; Sir J. Charles, F.S.A.,

6n.

Robinson, Rev. N. F., 106 n., 109,
no, 113, i2i«., 123-5, 209»
223 «.

Robinson, William, LL.D., F.S.A.,

i85-6ff.
Robroke, William, 82
Robyns, John, 92
Rock, Daniel, D.D., 78
Rodye, Nich., 303
Roger, Bishop, 3, 4».
Rogers, W. H. H., ^jn., iizn,
Rokeby, Archbishop William, 80
Roli, Thomas, S.L., 103 224,

230

Rolond, Nichol, 230, 265 ; Perncl,
265 ; Walter, Esq., 167

Roope, Nicholas, 141

Roos, Bryan, 131; family, lady of,
251

Rose, Jehan, and wife, 6, 7
Rothewelle, Archdeacon William

de, 51, 86, 87, 91, 93
Rotton, Elizabeth, 292 ; Thomas,

292

Rouclyff, Brian, 228

Routh, Dame Agnes, 190, 257, 261 ;

Sir John, 165, 190, 257
Rowlat, Ralf, 2 1 1
Rowley, Thomas, 218
Rudhale, Richard, 130

342

INDICES

Persons Rudolphus, Bishop, 72 ».

Rugge, Elizabeth, 283; Robert, 81,

218, 283
Rupez, Thiebauz, 7
Rusche, John, 211
Russel, Dame Isabel, 251 ; Sir

Morys, 157, 251
Russell, Elizabeth, 278 ; Bishop

John, 82; Sir John, 182; Sir

John, 184'; Robert, Esq., 278
Rust, Mary, 289; Robert, 289
Ruston, Joseph, 289 ».
Rutland, Thomas, 96
Rutter, Bishop Samuel, 27, 115
Rye, Walter, 23 2 w.
Rykeman, John, 97
Ryther family, lady of, 24.2 «.

S

Sackville, Mistress Ann, 287, 294«.
St. Amand, Almeric, Lord, 155;

Elizabeth, Lady, 275 ; William

Beauchamp, Lord, 275
St. John, see Zouch
Saintmaur, Hon. Edward, 299
St. Maur, Laurence de, 42/;., 70,

72»., 84

St. Quintin, Dame Agnes de, 257 ;
Sir John de, 11, 157, 158, 254,
255». ; Dame Lora de, 254,
255 w.; Sir Thomas de, 165,
168, 257; Thomas de, Esq.,
173, 191, 316

St. Veraen, Jeanne de, 56ff., 242/7.

Salaman family, a member of, 153 n.

Sales, Helene, 311; Thomas, 3 1 1

Salisbury, Countess of, 189
William D'Evereux or Fitz-
Patrick, Earl of, 5 n. ; Alice de
Montacute, Countess of, 1 1 ». ;
Alianore de Montacute, Coun-
tess of, 1 1 «. ; Thomas de Mon-
tacute, 4th Earl of, 1 1 ». ; Wil-
liam de Montacute, Earl of, 192

Salle, Thomas, Esq., 165, 168

Salmon, Agnes, 262; Thomas, Esq.
262

Sampson, Henry, 94 ; John, 1 1

Samson, James, 4

Samwaies, Peter, 1 5

Sanderson^ Bishop Robert^ 32

Sanderson, H. K.St. J., i6w., i89».

Sandford, Francis, \%(^n.

Sandys, Dame Margaret, 54 w. ;
William, Lord, 54». ; Sir Wil-
liam, 54W.

San Gallo, Francesco di, 67/;.

Saunder, Alice, 282; Nicholas, Esq.,
180, 282

Saunders, Francis, 233

Savage, Sir Arnald, 165, 190, 316;
Sir Arnold, 265 ; Dame Johanna,
265

Sawnders, Richard, 212

Saxaye, William, 234

Saxony, Albert, Duke of, 599. ;
Barbara, Duchess of, 59«.;Ernst,
Duke of, 59«. ; Frederick the
Good, Duke of, 59W. ; Frederic,
Duke of, 59». ; Frederic, Duke
of, 59». ; John, Duke of, 59W. ;
John Ernst, Duke of, 59». ;
Sidonia, Duchess of, 59«.

Say, Dame Elizabeth, 273 ; Sir
John, 8, 172, 191, 273

Sayer, John, 210

Scarisbrick family, member of, 181
Schelewaerts, Jacobus, 129
Schorne, John, 105 lo6».
Schraderus, 306
Schurmans, Maria, 289 ».
ScolfFyld, John, loi
Scors, William, 207
Scot, William, Esq., 165 ; Sir

William, 177
Scott, William, Esq., 296
Scott, Dean Robert, 37».
Scrope, Sir Richard, 312
Sedley, John, 211 ; John, 234
Seford (Sever), William, I26«.
Segrym, Ralph, 218
Seint-John, William la, 2l«.

INDICES

343

Selntlegier, Thomas, Esq., 163
Selby, Isodia, 273 ; Thomas, 210,

273

Selwyn, John, 24, 289 ; Susan, 289
Selyard, John, 213
Seman, Simon, 217
Semys, John, 218, 280; Margaret,
280

Sender, Roger, 205
Senno, Archbishop Jacobus de, 77
Septvans {alias Harflete), Christo-
pher, 184, 289; Jane, 292-3;
Mercy, 289 ; Walter, Esq., 216,

293, 316
Serken, Bishop Burchard de, 44,

47, 52, 315
Seroux d' Agincourt^ J.-B.L.G.,lo^n.

Setvans, Sir Robert de, 145, 147,

149

Sever, Henry, 93, 126, 128; see

Seford
Sextus, St., Pope, 68
Seymour, Sir John, 211; John,

211; see Hertford
Seyntaubyn, Alicia, 274, 275 w.;

GeofFry, 274, 275 k.
Seyntmaur, John, Esq., 176
SAazv, Henry^ F.S.A., 86«., I49».
Shawell, Richard, 192
ShefFeld, Edward, 132
ShefFelde, Robert, 94, 137
Sheldon, Elizabeth, 279
Shelley, Edward, Esq., 286 ; Eliza-
beth, 279 ; Joan, 286 ; John,

Esq., 181, 279
Shelton, Dame Alice, 257; Sir

Ralph, 167, 257
Sherard, Geoffrey, 278 ; Joyce, 278
Shernborne, Jamima, 268 ; Thomas,

Esq., 172, 174, 268, 317
Shiers, Robert, 233
Shorland, John, 299
Shrewsbury, John Talbot, Earl of,

206 ».
SImplicius, St., i89».
Simpson^ Grace H. M., z'J'jn.
Simpson^ Rev. W. Sparrow^ io6«.

Singer, E. R., 26

Skelton, William, 140

Skerne, Joan, 259; Robert, 207,

232, 259
Sleford, John de, 93
S/W///5, E. Bertram^ \n.
Smith, Tom C, 13W.
Smith, Walter, I37».
Smyght, William, 106
Smyth, Anne, 274K. ; Jenkyn, 192,

2o8,_ 274, 316; John, 274«. ;

Marion, 274; William, Esq.,

192

Snayth, Alicia, 256 ; William, 256
Snell, William, 136
Soden-Smith, R. H., M.A., F.S.A.,
277«.

Solms-Braunfels, Prince, 311

Somer, Thomas, 202

Sondes, Thomas, 138

Songar, — , 105

Sothill, Gerard, Esq., 4

Southwell, Robert, Esq., 232

Sowthe, John, see Lowthe

Spekynton, Richard, 140

Spelman, Ela, 278 ; Dame Eliza-
beth, 282; Henry, Esq., 218,
278; Sir John, 193, 229, 282

Spence, John, 135, 137W.

Sperehawke, John, 129

Spetyll, Hugo atte, 205

Spicer, John, 70 w.

Spycer, Joan, 263 ; Margaret, 263 ;
Margaret, 264; Reginald, 263,
264

Stafford, Archbishop John, 80 ;

Ralph, Lord, 155, 249; see

Buckingham
Sia/ey, Rev. Femon, J\n.
Stanberry, Bishop John, 8 1
Standon, see Stondon
Stanley, Henry, Esq., 178, 179;

Sir Humphrey, 178; Bishop

James, 74, 75«., 80
Stapel, Thomas, 192
Stapilton, Brian de, 169, 258 ».;

Cecilia de, 2 58«.

Persons

344

INDICES

Pkksons Stapleton, Dame Ela, 265 «. ; Dame

Elizabeth, 274; Dame Joan de,

249 ; Dame Katherine, 274; Sir

Miles de, 33, 161 «., 249, 316 ;

Sir Miles, 265 n. ; Sir Milo, 274 ;

William, Esq., 172
Starky, Hugh, Esq., 181
Stathum, Thomas, Esq., 174
Staunton, Dame Agnes, 268 ; Sir

Robert, 174, 268; William,

204 ».
Staverton, John, 227
Stephanus, Bishop of Tournay, 86
Stephen, St., 84 ».
Stephenson, Mill^ F.S.A., i5«., 37^.,

42«., 43»., 45«., 56»., 81//.,

96n., i92»., i97».
Stevyn, William, 134
Stevyns, Thomas, 303
Steyne, Paesschine van den, 56
Stigand, Archbishop, 68
Stodeley, John, 97
Stoke, Abbot John, 97 «.
Stokes, Elena, 263, 297; Thomas,

Esq., 204, 263, 297, 299
Stoket, Katherine, 263/;.
Stokys, Elizabeth, 284 ; John, 102 ;

John, 211 ; Robert, 284
Stondon, Richard, 84/7., 315
Stone, John, 4 ; Peter, 207
Stones, Thomas, 117
Stonor, John, 142
Storke, Alice, 275 n.
Siothard^ C. A., $n., 6n,, 239;/.,

242 n.

Stoughton, Thomas, Gent., 184
Stow, John, i66w. ; 226«.
Strabolgie, see Athole
Strange of Knokyn,Jacquetta, Lady,

277 ; John le Strange, Lord,

180, 277
Strangways, Sir Gyles, 184
Strelley, Dame Issabella, 273 ; Sir

Robert, 273
Strensall, John, 93
Strete, John, 104, 128
Strode, Arthur, 234

Strutt, Joseph, 246 n.
Stuart, House of, 24, 183, 185
Stubbes, Phillip, 285 288 ».
Style, Dame Brydgett, 285 ; Dame

Elizabeth, 285; Sir Humfrey,

182, 285
Suckling, Alfred, 1 1
Suckling, Sir Robert, 167, 190
Suffolk, Michael de la Pole, Earl

of, 168 w.
Sulyard, Edward, 209 r,., 278,

298 «. ; Myrabyll, 278
Surrey Archasological Society,

178//., 278
Surrey, Earl of, see Arundel
Sussex, Robert, Earl of, 29
Suttherton, Nicholas, 99
Sutton, Fayth, 30; Abbot John,

96 ; John, 30 ; Robert, 95 ;

Thomas, 30
Svanders, Margaret, 14, 55
Swan, Joan, 267 ; John, 267
Swayn, Thomas, 135
Swertius, 306

Swetenham, Matthew, Esq., 190

Swift, Robert, 213

Swynborne, Sir Robert, l64». ;

Sir Thomas, 164, 190
Swynstede, John de, 70
Sylvester, Pope, 68
Symonds, Richard, Esq., 235

T

Taberam, William, 137

Tacham, Edward, 72

Takeley, Abbot Thomas of, 96

Taknell, John, 71

Talbot, Roger, 15; see Shrewsbury

Tame, Alice, 278 ; Sir Edmond,

181 ; John, Esq., 177, 178, 278
Tannere, William, 87^., 94
Taylard, William, 133
Taylare, Dame Dorothe, 287 ; Sir

Lawrence, 287
Taylor, William, 30
Tendring, Sir William, 159

INDICES

345

Tendryng, Tomesina, 295//. ; Wil-
liam, Esq., 295 ».
Terri, John, 212, 2 1 8, 283 ; Lettys,

Teylar, Thomas, 94
Thaseburgh, Richard, yon.
Theel, John, Esq., 191
Thinne, William, Esq., 180
Thomas, St., of Canterbury, 69«.,

79

Thomas, Wiliiam^ D.D., 303
Thompson, -Sir Edward Maunde,

K.C.B., i27«., 2o6».
Thornely, Ja?nes L., I3».
Thorneton, Abbot Robert, 3 1 1
Thornhlll, Richard, 214
Thornton, Agnes, 54, 260 »., 297;

Roger, 27, 51,54, 72 »., 91,205,

26o»., 297, 299; Thomas, 1 1 5 «.
Throckmorton, Alianora, 266 ;

John, Esq., 170, 173, 266, 316
Thurbern, Robert, 89, 93
Tibarde, William, 134
Timmins^ H. Thovnhill, F.R.G.S.,

294».

Tiptoft and Powis, Sir John Tiptoft,
Lord, 269 ; Joice, Lady, 269 ;
see Powis

Todenham, John, 207

Toke, John, Esq., 178 ; John, Esq.,
182; Nicholas, Esq., 185; family,
ladies ot, 293

Tonge, Thomas, 71, 89

Tooke, William, Esq., 234

Topclyff, Mabel de, 43, 245, 247,
315, 316; Thomas de, 43, 48,
52, 53, 201, 247, 315

Torksay, John, 117

Tornay, James, 2I4».

Torrell, Thomas, Esq., 174

Torrington, Margaret, ^50; Rich-
ard, 202, 250

Towne, William, 128

Tregonwell, Sir John, 184, 231

Trembras, John, 136

Trencreeke, Robert, 233

Trenowyth, John, Esq., 180

Trevnwyth, Agnes, 268 ; Oto, 268 Persons
Trilleck, Bishop John, 73, 80, 83
Trond, St., 84

Trumpington, Sir Roger de, 17,

20, 145, 148, 149
Tucker, Stephen, Somerset Herald,

35

Tudor, House of, 24
Turner, Dorothy, 300; John, 300
Tumour, Joan, 276-7; William,
277

T'jack, Rev. George Smith, won.

Tyard, Thomas, 135

Tylbert, John, 71

Tylson, Thomas, 140

Tyndall, Avice, 287 ; Dean Hum-

frey, 116; Thomas, 287
Tyrell, Dame Alice, 260?;. ; Dame

Anne, 267; Sir John, 260

Sir Thomas, 267
Tyrrell, Anne, 24 «.

U

Ulger, Bishop of Angers, 6 n.
Underhill, Anne, 283 ; Thomas,

283 ; Bishop John, 81
Unton, Henry, Esq., 175, 234
Urban, Johanna, 256; John, 204,

256

Urswick, Christopher, 130
Urswyk, Dame — , 271, 272 ; Sir
Thomas, 99, 228, 271, 272, 3 16

V

Valence (or Varleance), John de,

17, 18 ; see Pembroke
Vandyke, 291
Vaughan, Guil. 15
Vawdrey, Ralph, 138
Verdun, Dame Matilda dc, 240 ;

Sir Theobald de, 240
Vere, de, see Oxford
Verieu, John, 71

346

INDICES

Peksons Verney, Dame Elizabeth, 285 ; Sir

Ralph, 182, 285
Vernon, Arthur, 100, 136; Dame

Margaret, 266, 27 : ; Sir William,

171, 172, 175, 266, 271
Verzelini, Elizabeth, 290 ; Jacob,

Esq., 214, 290
Vincent, Miss E. M., 18 ft.
Viollet le Due, E. E., 48 «.
Vir, Bishop Barthelemy de, 3
Vynter, William, 205

W

Wadham, Dorothie, 290 ; Nicholas,
Esq., 185, 290; Sir William,
173, 266; his wife, 266

Wake, Walter, 138; Archbishop
William, 1 1 5 «.

Wakeherst, Elizabeth, 276 ; Rich-
ard, Esq., 211, 276

Walcott, Rev. Mackenzie E.C.^i 09 ».

Waldeby, Archbishop Robert de,
79

Walden, John de, 199
Waleis, Robert, 136W.
Wales, Arthur, Prince of, 128, 133;

Prince Edward of, ^8n.
Waller^]. G., 15W., 647/., 241,248,

260 ».

Waller^ J. G. andL. A. B., i, 9, 10,
H»-, 37, 44, 45. 55, "4«m

Waller, William, 14

Walsh, Dame Katherine, 252 ; Sir
Thomas, 252

Walshe, Joan, 198, 246; Simon,
198, 246

Walsokne, Adam de, 28, 43, 48,
50, 52, 197, 198, 202; Mar-
garet de, 43, 48, 197, 243

Walter, Archbishop Hubert, 84 «.

Walter the Mason, 1 3

Waltham, Joan, 297 ; Bishop John
de, 75, 80, 83, 84

Walysch, Thomas, Esq., i64»., 168

Wantele, John, 166, 167

Wantyng (Wantone), Dame Ellen,
243 ; Sir John de, 154 '
Warde, Robert, 71

Wardeboys, Abbot John Laurence

de, 41, 95
Warham, Elizabeth, 106; Robert,

106; Archbishop William, 106,

1 10

Warner, Sir Edward, 182
Warthim, Philip, 100, 105, 138
Warwick, Cecily {ne'e Ncvill),
Duchess of, 312; Henry Beau-
champ, Duke of, 311-12 ; Mar-
garet de Beauchamp, Countess
of, 252; Richard Beauchamp,
Earl of, 9«., II, 9o»., 303-6;
Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of,
36, 162, 252; Thomas Beau-
champ, Earl of, 155; Richard
Nevill, Earl of (King-Maker),
312

Washington family, 34
Waterton, Edmund.^ F.S.A., 74 «,
Watton, Alicia, 269 ; Robert, Esq.,

170, 269
Wattys, John, 235
Way^ Albert^ 37
Wayte, Thomas, Esq., 176
Weather ley ^ W. S., i^Sn.
Webbe, Anne, 286; John, 214,

286

Weever^Jokn, 30, 48»., 286«., 306-

lO

Weld, Sir Humphrey, 290 ; Miss,

of Leagram, 312
Welley, William, 207
Wells^ Edtcard, D.D., 3 1 n.
Welysham, Roger, 1 1
Wenemaer, Willem, I53».
Wenslagh, Simon de, 43, 46, 53,

70, lOI

West, Edmund, S.L., 231 ; John,
68, 71, 205 ; Maria, 264; Rev.
Richard Temple, 26 ; William,
205, 264

Westeley, Thomas, lOI

Westlake, John, 136

INDICES

347

Weston, Richard, 229
Weststow, William, 100
Whalley, Robert, 214
Whappelode, William, 6^n.
Wharton, Arthur, 299; Philip,

Lord, 299
Wheathamstead, Abbot John of,

46, 207
Whelpdall, John, 132
White, Bishop John, 88-90, 114.

264; John, Esq., 181 ; William,

94

Whltelocke^ Sir J antes ^ 225 »,
Whittingham, Dean, 30, 32
Whychurch, Abbot William, 312
Whyte, Edward, Esq., 283 ; Eliza-
beth, 283
Whytton, John, 85, 104
Wiclif, Ralph, 300 ; William, 300
Wideville, Alice, 262 ; Elizabeth,
262 ; Thomas, Esq., 40, 191,
262, 315
Wilkins^David^ D.D., 69»., 103

II2»., I23».

Wilkynson, Thomas, 138
Willement, Thomas, F.S.A., 224».
Willemin, N. X, 5»., 192 k.
Willesden, Bartholomew, 234
William of Hatfield, Prince, 198 «.;

of Windsor, Prince, I98«.
WilHams^ Charles, 14 ».
Williams, Erasmus, 14, 116 ; John,

Lord, 182
Williams^ Rev. J. F., M.A., I30»,
Williams, Stephen fF., F.R.LB.A.,

I98».

Willis, Browne, 32, 232
Willoughby de Broke, Lord,
312

Willoughby d'Eresby, Lucy, Lady,
260; Margaret, Lady, 252;
Matilda, Lady, 267 ; Robert,
Lord, 252; Robert, 6th Lord,
K.G., 267 ; William, 4th Lord,
163, 260

Wilson, John, 1 5 ; Mr., 127a.

Wiltshire, Earl of, see Bullen

Winder, Peter, 1 16
Windham, Thomas, Esq., 184
Wingfeld, Dame RadclifF, 288 ; Sir

Thomas, 288
Wingfield, John, Esq., 183
Wiot, Edward, Esq., 215
Woddomes, Richard, 1 16
Wodehowse, Robert, 1 00
Wolsey, Cardinal Thomas, 1 10,

182, 277«.
Wolstonton, William, 45. 199
Wood, Jnthony.^ izzn., izSn.
Wood, J. G., 26 ».
Wood, Nicholas, 233
Woodstock, see Gloucester
Woodville, see Elizabeth
Worsley, Thomas, 1 40
Wotton, Nicholas, 139; Richard

de, 104 ».
Wren, Bishop Matthew, 108 «.
Wright, Thomas, zS».
Wrioihesley, 109 w.
Wryght, John, 1 39
Wyard, Richard, 139
Wybarne, 40

Wygornia, Hawisia de, 14

Wykys, Henry, 88

Wylcotes, Dame Alicia, 253 ; Sir

John, 163, 191, 253
Wylde, Cecilia, 265 ; Edith, 296;

Elizabeth, 296 ; John, Esq., 296;

William, Esq., 265
Wylleys, Richard, 93
Wylloughby, Margaret, 274 ; Rauf,

Esq., 274
Wyllynghale, John, 71
Wymbyll, Robert, 211
Wynne, Sir Richard, 1 5 ; Dame

Sarah, 15
Wynston, Ismayne de, 249
Wynter, John, 208
Wyntryngham, Robert, 93
Wyntworth, Thomas, 139
Wythe, Robert, 100
Wythines, John, D.D., 117
Wyvill, Bishop Robert, 7, 80, 192,
193

348

INDICES

Y

Persons Yden, Pawle, 2I2

Yelverton, Dame Agnes, 272 ; Sir

William, 191, 229, 272
Yerd, John, 28

Yong, Bishop John, 70, 74, 80, 82
Yonge, Anne, 281; Francis, Esq.,
281

York, House of, 22, 188, 269
Younge, John, 207
Yslyngton, John, 102, 106, 129,
315

Ysowilpe, Bishop of Verden, 16,
63, 69, 78

Z

Zeigeler, Eobanus, iz6n.

Zenobio, San, 67 ».

Zoest, Johan von, 44, 49. 51, 52,
244 ». ; his wife, 44, 244?/.

Zouch, Alice, Lady, 39, 260 ;
Elizabeth {ne'e St. John), Lady
39, 296; William. Lord, 39'
260, 296 ; Eudo de la, 131

, Elizabeth, 252

, Elizabeth, 268

, Nicholas, 192

OF PLACES^

A

Aberdeen, 27, 133
Abergavenny, I32».
Abingdon, Berks., St. Helen's, 129,
204

Abingdon Pigotts, Cambs., 208,
270

Acle, Norfollc, 117
Acton, SufFolk, 145, 146, 147, 180,
265

Acton Burnell, Salop, 159, 161
Adderbury, Oxon., 174, 191
Adderley, Salop, 81
Addington, Kent, 170, 256, 269
Aire in Artoise, 54»,
Aldborough, Norfolk, 273
Aldborough, Yorks., 36, 157, 159,
160

Aldbourne, Wilts., 4, 1 00
Aldbury, Herts., 182, 285
Aldermaston, Berks., 35
Allerton Mauleverer, W. Yorks.,

162, 252
Althorne, Essex, 99
Amberley, Sussex, 166, 167
Amersham, Bucks., 299
Amiens, z6n.
Amsterdam, 54«.
Angers, St. Maurice, 6«.
Anthony, East, Cornwall, 257,

261

Antwerp, 54«.
Aosta, 2i«.

Apuldrefield, Kent, zt^on.
Ardingley, Sussex, 211, 276, 278,

292, 317
Arundel, Sussex, 71, 83, 91, 94,

191, 258

Ash-next-Sandwich, Kent, 1 5 1 w.,
I58«., 184, 216, 266, 269, 289,
292, 293
Ashbourn, Derbyshire, 17
Ashbury, Berks., 140, 199
Ashby de-la-Zouch, Leics., 204 «.
Ashby Puerorum, Lines., 7
Ashby St. Legers, Northants, 106,

204, 263, 278, 297, 299
Ashford, Kent, 250, 259
Ashover, Derbyshire, 70, 294 ».
Ashringe House, Bucks., 70
Aspley Guise, Beds., 104, 191
Assington, SufFolk, 176, 282
Assisi, 67;/.

Astley Abbots, Salop, 295 «.
Aston, Herts, 214^.
Aston, Warwickshire, 228, 280
Aston-le-Walls, Northants, 290
Aston Rowant, Oxon., 150
Attenborough, Notts., 77/.
Attleborough, Norfolk, 29
Attlebridge, Norfolk, 100, 231
Auckland, St. Andrew's, Durham,

IS, 91

Aughton, East Yorks., 172, 266
Autun, 77 «.

Aveley, Essex, 43, 45, 50, 1 57, 1 59,
161

Avenbury, Herefordshire, 4
Aylesford, Kent, 45, 168, 262
Aylsham, Norfolk, 140

B

Badlesmere, Kent, 1 1 1 315
Baginton, Warwickshire, 162,190,
248

Sainton, E. Yorks., loi
Baldock, Herts., 205, 269

I See also List of Illustrations.

350

INDICES

Pj-aces Balsham, Cambs., 89, 90, 93

Bamberg, 75«., 77, 87 w., izGn.
Bampton, Oxon., 91, 292
Banwell, Somerset, 133
Barcheston, Warwickshire, 135
Bardfield, Great, Essex, 231
Barham, Suffolk, 232
Barking, Essex, 102, 136s.
Barneck, Northants, 67
Barnes, Surrey, 296
Barningham, Suffolk, 132
Barrow, Suffolk, 229, 286
Barsham, Suffolk, 167, 190
Barton-on-Humber, Lines., 217
Barwell, Leics., 117
Basingstoke, Hants., Holy Ghost

Chapel, 54»,
Bath, 114; Downside Abbey,

311

Battle, Sussex, 117, 165
Bawburgh, Norfolk, 100, 135
Bayeux, 68
Bayford, Herts., 84
Beachamwell, Norfolk, 70
Beauchampton, Bucks., zzn.
Beaumaris, Anglesea, 94 n.
Beckenham, Kent, 182, 285, 286
Beckington, Somerset, 176, 273
Bedale, Yorks., 15
Beddington, Surrey, 169, 204, 207,

262, 297
Bedford, St. Paul's, 14,116, 183,

218, 287
Bedwyn, Great, Wilts., 2 1 1
Beeford, Yorks., 71, 89
Belaugh, Norfolk, 176, 274
Belgium, 3, 26 ».
Belstead, Sufi'olk, 282
Bennington, Herts., 92»., 233
Bentley, Little, Essex, 191, 209/;.,

267

Bergholt, East, Suffolk, 216
Berkeley, Gloucs., 211
Berkhampstead, Great, Herts., 15,

64«., 202, 244, 250, 254
Berwick, 21

Berwick Basset, Wilts., 205

Bettws-Cedcwain, near Newtown,
Montgomery, loi '

Biddenden, Kent, 216
Biddlesden, Bucks., 228
Blgbury, Devon, 263, 268
Bigby, Lines., 1 1 7
Billingham, Durham, 94
Bircham, Great, Norfolk, 235
Birchington, Kent, 207, 208
Birmingham, Municipal Art Gal-
lery, 277 w.; Oscott College,
2 24«. ; St. Martin's, no
Bisham Priory, Berks., ii»,, 21

Bishop Burton, E. Yorks., 100
Bitton, Gloucs., 4, 86«., 87s.
Blakesley, Northants, 190
Bletchingley, Surrey, 295
Blickling, Norfolk, 22, 159, 162,

199' 207, 268, 273, 276, 295
Blisland, Cornwall, 82
Blockley, Worcs., 8ow., 100, 105,

138, 140
Bobbing, Kent, 165, 190, 265
Bocking, Essex, 261
Boddington, Upper, Northants,

117

Bodiam, Sussex, 160
Bookham, Great, Surrey, 233
Boroughbridge, Yorks., 36, 160
Bosbury, Herefordshire, 4
Boston, Lines., 7, 93, 201
Bottesford, Leics., 90, 91, 93
Boughton-under-Blcan, Kent, 184
Bowden, Great, Leics., 45, 199
Bowers Giffbrd, Essex, 34, 154,
315

Boxgrove, Sussex, 97//.
Boxley, Kent, 136, 183
Brabant, 44

Brabourne, Kent, 165, 177, 296
Bradfield, W. Yorks., 15, 216, 293
Bradford-on-Avon, Wilts., 288
Brading, Isle of Wight, 4
Brampton, Norfolk, 231
Brampton-by-Dingley, Northants,
261

INDICES

351

Brancepeth, Durham, 140
Brandsburton, Yorks., ii, 71, I57>

158, 254, 255».
Braunton, Devon, 282
Bray, Berks., 192, 227, 250, 290
Bredgar, Kent, 102, 1 37
Bredon, Worcs., 114
Breslau, 72»., 126//.
Brightlingsea, Essex, 210, 275, 294,

296

Brightwell, Berks., 10 1
Brightwell Baldwin, Oxon., 227
Brington, Great, Northants, 71
Brisley, Norfolk, 10 1, 102
Bristol, Cathedral, 26; St. James',
216, 292; St. John, 218; St.
Mary Redcliffe, 179, 227, 230,
298, 316 ; St. Peter's, loi ;
Temple Church, 40, 88, 202,
264 ; Trinity Almshouses, 204
Broadclyst, Devon, 2 30«.
Broadwater, Sussex, 90, 93
Broadway, Worcs,, 183
Bromham, Beds., 40, 191, 262
Bromham, Wilts., 184, 215, 275,
287

Bromley, Kent, 214
Bromley, Great, Essex, 70
Broughton, Lines., 251
Broughton, Oxon., 257
Broughton GifFord, Wilts., l66».
Brown Candover, Haets, 212
Broxbourne, Herts., 8, 35, 101,

137, 172, 179, 191, 192, 273
Bruges Cathedral, 129, 199
Brundish, Suffolk, 70
Brussels, 44
Buckland, Herts., 102
Buckland Broadway, 312
Budock, Cornwall, 184
Burford, Salop, 245
Burgate, Suffolk, 256
Burgh, Norfolk, 1 1 6
Burgh Wallis, Yorks., 182 k,
Burlingham, South, Norfolk, 100
Burnham Thorpe, Norfolk, 168,

190

Burton, Sussex, 285-6
Burton, Long, Dorset, 28
Burwell, Cambs., 41, 72, 76, 95
Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, Abbey,
38; St. Mary, 94, 192, 208,

Buslingthorpe, Lines., 140
Buxton, Norfolk, 100
Byfleet, Surrey, 94
Byland Abbey, 96 «.

C

Callington, Cornwall, 227, 269
Callipolis, 80

Camberwell, Surrey, see London

Cambridge, 13, 65, 122, 283 ;
University, 121 ». ; Christ's Col-
lege, 129, 247 Clare Hall,
131; Corpus Chrlsti College,
127, I36«. ; Fitzwilliam Mu-
seum, 155 ; Gonville and Caius
College, 116; King's College,
95, 128, 129, 133; Pembroke
College, lo8». ; Queens' Col-
lege, 116, 134,214; St. Benet's,
125, 127; St. John's College,
34, 12IW., 131, 247«. ; St.
Mary the Less, 128; Trinity
College, 115; Trinity Hall, 93,
130, 132, 139

Cambridgeshire, 1 3

Campese, 263

Campsey Ash, Suffolk, 10 1, 102
Canterbury, See of, 78, 90©., 106,
II3»., 115, 123; Cathedral, 6,
64»., 79, 84?/., I57«., l89». ;
Hackington, i89«.; St. George's,
88; St. Margaret's, 208; St.
Martin's, 58^., 184, 214, 287;
St. Mary Magdalene, Burgate,
34, 212; St. Stephen's, i89«.
Cardington, Beds., 181, 184
Cardynham, Cornwall, 103
Carisbrooke, Isle of Wight, 3
Carlisle Cathedral, 77, 80, 8i«.,
113

352

INDICES

Places Carshalton, Surrey, 6^n., 85, 191
Cartmel, 97 «.

Casterton, Little, Rutland, 162,
190, 253

Castle Ashby, Northants, 72 «,, 90,
93

Castle Donnington, Leics., 174,

268

Cawood, Yorks., li^n.
Cawston, Norfolk, 105 ».
Chalcedon, 81

Chalfont St, Peter, Bucks., 39, 64 h.
Chalgrove, Oxon., 173
Chalons-sur-Marne, 7
Channel Islands, 27
Charlton Makerel, 2 30«.
Charlwood, Surrey, 180, 282
Chart, Great, Kent, 178, 182, 185,

210, 269, 293
Chartham, Kent,93,94, 137, 145-7
Charwelton, Northants, 281
Cheam, Surrey, 28, 82, 200, 201,

'213, 281, 298
Checkcndon, Oxon., 230
Cheddar, Somerset, 165, 169
Chedzoy, Somerset, 1 78/;,
Chelsea, see London
Chelsfield, Ken4 82, 271
Cheltenham, Gloucs,, 228
Cherlton, Kent, 36, 104
Chesham Bois, Bucks., 182
Cheshunt, Herts,, 11, 12, 231
Chester, See of, 114; Holy Trinity,

187 ; St. Peter, 232
Chesterford, Great, Essex, 283
Chesterford, Little, Essex, 266
Chevening, Kent, 116
Chichester Cathedral, 14s., 79».,

I37«.

Chigwell, Essex, 30,^55, 75, 108,
114

Childrey, Berks., 131, 166, 167,

259, 294
Chingford, Essex, 2I4».
Chinnor, Oxon., 64, 128, 244, 251
Chipping Campden, Gloucs., 201,

207, 208, 210, 253

Chipping Norton, Oxon,, 34, 207
Chiselhurst, Kent, 235
Chittlehampton, Devon, 273
Cholsey, Berks., 21
Chrishall, Essex, lo^n., 208, 250,

274» 315-16
Christchurch, Hants, 31, 33, iO()n.,

127/;., i63».
Church Oakley, Hants, 106
Churchill, Somerset, 183, 287
Cirencester, Gloucs., 85, io.\.n.,

173, I75» 203, 207, 2i6, 263,

264, 297» 312
Clapham, Sussex, 181, 279
Clavering, Essex, 104
Claydon, Middle, Bucks., 166 n.
Cleh ongre, Herefordshire, 1 5 1 w.,

I52»., 175, 272
Clerkenwell, see London
Cleves, 59

Cley-next-the-Sea, Norfolk, 102,

106, 129
Clifford Chambers, Gloucs., 183
Clifton, Pro - Cathedral of the

Apostles, I23«.
Clifton, Beds., 179
Clifton, Notts., 215
Clifton Campville, Staffs., 145 «.,

247

Clippesby, Norfolk, 184, 289
Clothall, Herts., 88, 116, 139, 140,
315

Clynnog, Carnarvonshire, 299
Clyst St. George, Devon, 294^.
Coates, Great, Lines., see Cotes
Cobham, Kent, 20w., 86, 87»., 93,
94, 158, 160, 180, 240, 245,
250, 251, 264, 278, 297, 299
Coburg, 5977.

Coggcshall, Great, Essex, 274, 283
Colan, Cornwall, 183
Colchester, ii^n.
Coleshill, Warwickshire, 13, 82,

102, 1 16
Collingbourne Ducis, Wilts., 299
Cologne, 9, 56

Constance Cathedral, 57, l87».

INDICES

353

Constantine, Cornwall, 45

Conway, 95 «.

Cookham, Berks., 45

Cople, Beds., 165, 167, 169, 228-

30, 263, 265
Corfe Castle, Dorset, 305
Corringham, Essex, 71, 82
Cortville, near Li(^ge, 56
Cotes, Great, Lines., 99, 106, 193,

316

Cottingham, Yorks., 91, 93
Cowfold, Sussex, 79, 97
Cowthorpe, W. Yorks., 228
Cracow, 64;;.

Cranford St. Andrew, Northants,
261

Cranley, Surrey, 193
Crawley, Bucks., 116
Cray, St. Mary, Kent, 26, 217,
293

Creak, North, Norfolk, 105
Creak, South, Norfolk, 9 1 , 96, 97 «.
Cressing, Essex, 290
Cressingham, Great, Norfolk, 139,
232

Crishall, Essex, see Chrishall

Croft, Lines., 145, 146, 150

Crondall, Hants, 70

Crowan, Cornwall, 272, 274, 275».

Crowmarsh Giffard, Oxon., 215

Croxden Abbey, 240

Croxton, Cambs., 1 3 i

Croydon, Surrey, ii5«., 216, 286

Cuckfield, Sussex, I27».

Cues, 64 «.

Cuypgat, near Ghent, 7
D

Dagenham, Essex, 98, 228, 271,
272

Darley, Staffs., 29

Darsham, Suffolk, 292

Dartford, Kent, 203, 235, 263,

266, 289
Dartmouth, Devon, 163, 248 ; St.

Petrock, 290

Dauntsay, Wilts., 279, 281, 317
Daylesford, Worcs., 216
Deane, West, Wilts., 299
Debenham, Suffolk, 263
Deddington, Oxon., 15, 200
Deerhurst, Gloucs., 226, 252
Denchworth, Berks., 21, 38
Dengie, Essex, 277
Denham, Bucks., 38, 97, 115,296
Denmark, 26»., 44, 58
Denstone, Suffolk, 279, 283
Dethick, Derbyshire, 294 «.
Devizes, Wilts., St. John's, 216,
291

Digswell, Herts., 167, 190, 261
Ditchingham, Norfolk, 274
Ditton, Long, Surrey, 290
Dodford, Northants, 262, 265
Dol, 77 ».
Doncaster, 8».

Dorchester, Oxon., 89, 91, 95, 96,

97»., 190
Douay, 26;/.
Dover, St. Mary's, 216
Dowdeswell, Gloucs., 89, 91
Downe, Kent, 214, 290
Downside Abbey, Bath, 3 1 1
Draycot Cerne, Wilts., 248, 249/7.
Drayton Beauchamp, Bucks., 150^.,

158, 161
Dry Drayton, Cambs., 281
Dublin, See of, 79, 80; Castle,

i88k. ; Christchurch Cathedral,

27, i88». ; St. Patrick's Cathe-
dral, 27, 95

Durham, See of, I26«. ; Cathedral,

28, 30, 32, 427;., 68, 69«., 81,
83 ; Greatham Hospital Chapel,
127W,

Duxford, Cambs., 139
Dyrham, Gloucs., 157, 251

E

Earls Barton, Northants, 234
Eastington, Gloucs., 279
Easton, Suffolk, 183, 288

2 A

354

INDICES

Places Easton, Little, Essex, 70«., 172,
176, 186, 187, 191, 192, 270
Easton Neston, Northants, 282
Eastry, Kent, 183
Eaton Socon, Beds., 202
Edenbridge, Kent, 213
Edenhall, Cumberland, 172
Edenham, Lines., 79
Edgmond, Salop, 281
Edinburgh, St. Giles', 27
Elford, Staffs., 204 «., 206 «.
Ellough, Suffolk, 290
Elmdon, Essex, 283
Elsing, Norfolk, 8, 43, 49-50, 51,

Elstow, Beds., 98, 265

Ely, See of, 80, io8ff. ; Cathedral,

72, 75, 80, 83, 96, 116
Emneth, Norfolk, 150
Enfield, Middlesex, 269
England, 42, 255 ».
Epping, Essex, 233
Erfurt, 126 n.

Erith, Kent, 205, 207, 263
Erpingham, Norfolk, 167
Essendon, Herts., 234
Essex, 13, 27, 93, 283
Etchingham, Sussex, 161, 169,259,
295

Eton College, 92, 115, 128, 137//.,

142, 180, 284
Etwall, Derbyshire, 294
Europe, 42
Euston, Suffolk, 212
Evesham, Worcs., 203 ».
Evreux, i^n.
Ewell, Surrey, 279
Ewelme, Oxon., 45,71, 135, 137«.,

165, 169, 192, 266
Exeter, See of, 57, 80; Cathedral,

88, 186
Eyke, Suffolk, 117, 227
Eyworth, Beds,, 215, 290

F

Fairford, Gloucs., 177, 178, 181,

278

Faulkbourne, Essex, 289, 294/7.
Faversham, Kent, 165, 174, 212,

224//., 276
Fawsley, Northants, 181, 284/7.
Felbrigg, Norfolk, 165, 184, 186,

201, 246, 251, 257, 295
Felstead, Essex, 262
Feltwell, Norfolk, 282
Finchampstead, Berks., 292
Finland, 43 «., 44«.
Firle, West, Sussex, i88«.
Fishlake, West Yorks., 100
Fladbury, Worcs., 90, 137, 140,

170, 173, 266
Flamborough, Yorks., 23 ».
Flamstead, Herts., 907/.
Flanders, 9, 27, 44, 53
Fletching, Sussex, 251
Florence, l6n.; Certosa, 15877.;

Church of the Annunziata, 67 n. ;

San Lorenzo, 57; Santa Croce,

5777.

Fordham, Cambs., 212, 283
Fordwich, Kent, 290
Fountains Abbey, Yorks., 96
Fovant, Wilts., 92, 105
Fowey, Cornwall, 289
France, 2677., 25577., 306
Fransham, Great, Norfolk, 167
Frenze, Norfolk, 98, 176, 283, 294
Fryerning, Essex, 38
Fulbourn, Cambs., 70, 89, 93
Fulham, see London
Furneaux Pelham, Herts., 205,
265, 317

G

Gateley, Norfolk, 10577,
Geddington, Northants, 2 ion.,

262 77.
Gedney, Lines,, 25 i
Germany, 2677., 306; North, 9
Ghent, I53«. ; Museum, 7,72;/.,

8377., 84
Girton, Cambs., 134
Glasgow, 27
Glastonbury Abbey, 231

INDICES

355

Gloucester, See of, 138; Cathedral,
26; St. John Baptist, 218, 280;
St. Mary de Crypt, 218, 294

Gloucestershire, 9«., 79 ».

Gnesen, 64^., 77

Gonalston, Notts., 2 39«.

Goodnestone, Kent, 286

Goring, Oxon., 252

Gorleston, Suffolk, 151

Gosfield, Essex, 103 w., 224, 230

Graveney, Kent, 200, 227, 246,
259

Gratham Hospital, Durham, 127 w.
Greens Norton, Northants, 171,

173, 266
Grendon, Northants, 267
Greystoke, Cumberland, 132, 296
Grinstead, West, Sussex, 167, 259
Guildford, Surrey, Abbot Hospital,

1 1 5 «. ; Holy Trinity, 115; St.

Nicholas, Losely Chapel, 316
Gunby, Lines., 190, 227, 256

H

Haccombe, Devon, 290
Hackney, see London
Hadleigh, Suffolk, 45
Hadley, Middx., 276
Hainault, 44
Hailing, Kent, 234
Halstead, Essex, 256, 265
Halton, Bucks., 229
Halvergate, Norfolk, 97
Ham, Essex, 290

Hampden, Great, Bucks., 179, 181
Hampsthwaite, Yorks., 40, 197?;.,
199

Hampton Poyle, Oxon., 168, 262
Hanningfield, West, Essex, 244,
247

Hardrcs, Upper, Kent, 22, 104,
128

Hardwick Hall, 209
Harefield, Middx., 231
Harewood, Yorks., 227

Harford, Devon., 114;/., Places
Harley, Salop, 175, 272, 273
Harling, West, Norfolk, lyon.,

Harlington, Middx., 286
Harlow, Essex, 215, 262, 292
Harpham, Yorks., 165, 168, 173,

191, 257
Harpsden, Oxon., 266
Harpswell, Lines., 136;;.
Harrow, Middx., 45, 72 w., 90,

92ff., 93, 104, 202, 215
Harrowden Magna, Northants, 265
Hartly Wintney, Hants, 98 ».
Haseley, Great, Oxon., 87, 94,

287

Hatley Cockayne, Beds., 179

Haughmond Abbey, 198 «.

Havant, Hants., 90, 93

Hawton, Notts., 150

Hayes, Kent, 235

Hayes, Middx., 174, 184

Hayles Abbey, 3 1 2

Headbourne Worthy, Hants, 141-2

Hedenham, Norfolk, 100

Hedgerley, Bucks., 38, 81, 193

Heigham, Norfolk, 216

Hellesdon, Norfolk, 70 w., 200,
244, 246, 316

Hellingly, Sussex, 259

Helmsley, Yorks., 191

Hemel Hempstead, Herts., 160

Hempstead, Essex, 209, 283

Henfield, Sussex, 292

Hereford, See of, 108 Cathed-
ral, 2«, 18, 32, 63«., 73, 80,
81, 83, 89, 94, 126, 129, 130,
i35> 139. i52«-, i73» 202, 259

Heme, Kent, 134, 167, 168, 258,
269, 28477.

Heston, Middx., 24

Hever, Kent, 5 i 180, 187, 209,
258

Hexham, 97»,
Heydon, Norfolk, 234
Heyford, Nether, Northants, 1 78
Hickling, Notts., loi

356 INDICES

Places Higham Ferrers, Northants, lo,
42ff, 70, 72W., 84, 93, lOI,
102, 205, 264
Hildersham, Cambs,, 171, 198,
246

Hildesheim, 17, 63, 73, iz6n.
Hillingdon, Middx., 178-80, 277
Hillmorton, Warwickshire, 256
Hinxworth, Herts., 94»., 218, 233,
274

Hitchin, Herts., 93, 129, 134
Holm-by-the-Sea, Norfolk, 23 w.,

203, 253
Holme Hale, Norfolk, 235
Holton, Oxon., 175, 300
Holwell, Beds., 100, lozn.
Honington, Suffolk, 215
Horkesley, Little, Essex, 164, 190
Horley, Surrey, I53»., 261
Hornby, N. Yorks., 99, 105, 267
Hornchurch, Essex, 2 1 n.
Horndon, East, Essex, iSon., 267
Horndon, West, Essex, 279W.
Horseheath, Cambs., 159, 161
Horsham, near Norwich, 96
Horsham, Sussex, 66, 68, 71
Horshill, Surrey, 30
Horsley, East, Surrey, 80, 202
Horsmonden, Kent, 57, 70, 315
Horton Kirby, Kent, 268
Houghton Conquest, Beds., 179,

278

Houghton -le- Spring, Durham,

294 w.
Howden, Yorks., 175
Hull, 81

Hunstanton, Norfolk, 179, 181,
275

Husbands Bosworth, Leics., 117
Hutton, Somerset, 179

I

ICKLEFORD, HcrtS., 202

Ifield, Sussex, 152W.
Ightfield, Salop, 210, 278
Ightham, Kent, 292

Ilford, Little, Essex, 142, 300
Ilminster, Somerset, 173, 185,266,
290

Impington, Cambs., 278
Ingham, Norfolk, 33, 161 «., 169,

249, 258 w., 265 K., 274
Ingleby Arncliffe, Yorks., 15
Ingrave, Essex, 272, 279
Ipswich, St. Mary Quay, 54, 212,

276 ; St. Mary Tower, 209, 21 1
Ireland, 27
Irnham, Lines., 161
Isleham, Cambs., 175, 191, 214,

233, 268, 273, 287
Isleworth (Thistleworth or Istle-

worth), Middx., 9, 45, 99, 171,

174
Italy, 306

Ivybridge, Devon., II4«.

J

Jervaulx Abbey, 311
K

Kelsey, South, Lines., i68»., 261
Kemsing, Kent, 71
Kent, 27, 293

Ketteringham, Norfolk, 181, 269,

275 ; Park, 84;/.
Kidderminster, Worcs., 165, 190,

257, 261
Kilburn, see London
Kingsclere, Hants, 235
King's Lynn, Norfolk, 10, 28, 32,

42«., 43, 48-53, 197, 198,

201 243
Kingsnorth, Kent, 287
King's Sombourne, Hants, 200,

201

Kingston -upon -Thames, Surrey,

207, 210, 232, 259, 274
Kinnersley, Herefordshire, 139
Kirkheaton, W. Yorks., 186, 293
Kirkleatham, Yorks., 216, 300
Knebworth, Herts., 79, 89, 90,

91, 93

INDICES

357

L

Lacock, Wilts., 1 06, 181, 232,

276, 315-17
Lakenheath, Suffolk, 283
Lambeth, see London
Lambourn, Berks., 202
Lambourne, Essex, 213, 282
Lancaster, St. Mary, 216
Lan teglos-j uxta- Fowey, Cornwall,

I73» 179, 278
Laon, 3

Latton, Essex, 227, 268, 289
Laughton, Lines., 40, 157, 159,
162

Laughton -en - le - Morthen, W.

Yorks., 185
Laver, High, Essex, 209 278,

298/;

Lavington, West, Wilts., 56, 177,
178

Laycock, see Lacock
Lechlade, Gloucs., 207, 316
Ledbury, Herefordshire, 104
Leeds, St. Peter, 100, 172. 266
Leicester, St. Martin, 29
Leigh, Surrey, 217, 297
Le Mans, 5
Le Puy, 77 «.
Letchworth, Herts., 202
Letheringsett, Norfolk, 235
Lewes, Sussex, 79, 96
Lewknor, Oxon., 71
Leyton, Low, Essex, 295
Lichfield Cathedral, 1 32
Liege, 3, 56

Lillingstone Lovell, Oxon., 191
Lincoln, See of, 114; Cathedral,
32, 58»., 82, 134; St. Andrew,
30 ; Monks Manor, near, 289 ».
Lincolnshire, 13

Lingfield, Surrey, 163, 249, 263,
295

Linwood, Lines., 132, 150, 204,

205, 265, 299
Littlebury, Essex, loi, 102, 209,

289

Llanbeblig, Carnarvonshire, 235
Llanrwst, Denbigh,Gwydir Chapel,

Loddon, Norfolk, 184, 214, 290
London, 12, 64«., 201, 205, 304;
All Hallows' Barking, 55,115 ».,.
180, 193, 207, 211, 212, 214,
218, 263, 276«., 277 ; Augmen-
tation Office, 29 ; Burlington
Fine Arts Club, 48»., 123;/.,
224«., 311-12; Camberwell,
Surrey, 45 ; Chelsea, St. Luke's,
185, i88«., 285, 292; Clerken-
well, St. James', 35, 80; Ful-
ham, Middlesex, 14, 55 ; Gray's
Inn, 233, 234; Hackney, Middle-
sex, 1 1 7?/., 130 ; Kilburn Priory,
99 ; Kilburn, St. Mary's, 99 ;
Lambeth, Surrey, St. Mary's,
187, 278 «., 281 ; Lincoln's Inn,
233 ; Museum, British, i, 4, 5
I3«., 2IW., 33, 43, 48, 49, 51,
56, 75, 95, 109, I26«., I27».,
i^6n., 178, 210, 239«., 258?/.;
Museum, Jermyn Street, 56;
Museum, Victoria and Albert
(South Kensington), 9«., 56, 191,
311; National Gallery, Sjn.,
3il«. ; Paddington, St. Mary
Magdalene, 26 ; St. Andrew
Undershaft, 218; St. Helens,
Great, Bishopsgate, 104, 128,
139, i66w., 178; St, Martin
Outwich, 128, 140; St. Michael
Bassishaw, 286 ; St. Olave, Hart
Street, i66«. ; St, Paul's Cathe-
dral, 74W., I09»., 13 I; Serjeants'
Inn, Fleet Street, 225 «, ; South-
wark, St. George's Cathedral,
3 1 1 ; Southwark, St. Saviour's,
204«,; Staple Inn, 235 ; Temple,
Inner, 233 ; Temple, Middle,
225 »., 234 ; Westminster Abbey,
6, 17, i8w., 22«., 26, 57, 73«.,
74, 75, 79, 80, 83, 84, 91, 95,
ii2«., 114, 115, 152;/., i56«.,
169, 178, i98«., 2i7«,, 239//.,

358

INDICES

243W., 248, 253W., 254, 264,

303 ; Westminster. Courts at,
223 w., 224W., 309, 310; West-
minster Hall, 222, 277 ». ; West-
minster, St. Margaret's, 31

Longforgan, Perthshire, 206 w.

Louvain, University of, 129

Lowick, Northants, 264, 266

Lowthorp, Yorks., 15

Lubeck, 44, 47, 52

Lucca, 77 ».

Ludlow, Salop, 258».

Lullingstone, Kent, 179

Luton, Beds., 33, 132,205, 267

Lydd, Kent, 139, 284

Lytescary, 2307/.

M

Mablethorpe, Lines., 296
Macclesfield, Cheshire, 64^., 10 1
Magdeburg, 79
Maids' Moreton, Bucks., 296
Maidstone, All Saints', 79
Mailing, East, Kent, 95, 102, 210,
273

Mailing, West, Kent, 102 w., 281
Malmesbury, Wilts., 58».
Malvern, Great, Worcs,, 192 w.
ManchesterCathedral, 80, 94, 139,
266

March, Cambs., lySn., 279
Marden, Herefordshire, 288
Margate, Kent, 45, 173, 185, 205,
207

Markham, East, Notts., 257, 261
Marston Morteyne, Beds., 174,266
Marsworth, Bucks., 231
Mattishall, Norfolk, 233
Mawgan-in-Pydar, Cornwall, 45,

88, 214, 285
Mayence, 77, 79
Meaux Cathedral, 7
Mecklinburg, 44
Meissen, 59

Melbury Sampford, Dorset, 184
Melford, Long, Suffolk, 184, 272,
273, 297

Melton, Suffolk, 104, 206, 264
Melverley, 97 w.
Mendlesham, Suffolk, i67«.
Meopham, Kent, 33
Mepshall, Beds., 263
Merevale, Warwickshire, 167, 256
Mereworth, Kent, 213
Meriden, Warwickshire, 292
Merstham, Surrey, 299
Merton, Norfolk, i8o»., 276
Messing, Essex, 281
Methley, Yorks., logn.
Methwold, Norfolk, I50»,, 16 in.
Middleburgh in Walcheren, 56
Middleton, Essex, 4
Middleton, Lanes., Jon., 82, 102,
186, 293

Middleton, Warwickshire, 228,

267
Milan, 87W.

Mildenhall, Suffolk, 189W.
Milton, Cambs., 229, 284
Milton Abbas, Dorset, 96^., 184,
231

Milton-next-Sittingbourne, Kent,

175, 278
Mimms, North, Herts., 7, 43, 49,

5o> 52, 53» 7°y 178, 286
Minchinhampton, Gloucs., 99
Minehead, Somerset, 268
Minety, Wilts., 185, 290
Minster,|Kent, 56, 1 50»., 152, 242
Minsterley, Salop, 294^.
Mirival, Warwickshire, 29
Missenden, Little, Bucks., 39
Monewden, Suffolk, n6
Monkton, Kent, 70W.
Morland, Westmorland, zjn.
Morley, Derbyshire, 174
Mugginton, Derbyshire, 191, 296
Musgrave, Great, Westmorland, 84

N

Narbonne Cathedral, 48 «.
Narburgh, Norfolk, 193, 218,229,

231, 278, 282, 286
Naudhausen, 68

INDICES

359

Necton, Norfolk, 212, 247, 249,
283, 289

Netley Abbey, Hants, 278

Newark, Notts., 43, 46, 49, 50-53,
Ii6w., 1277/., 197, 198

Newcastle-on-Tyne, AH Saints', 27,
51, 54, jzn., 91, 205, 26o»,
297,299; St. Nicholas, 151 »

Newington, Kent, 210, 215, 287

Newnton, Wilts., 68

Newton Bromshold, Northants, 82

Newton-by-Geddington, North-
ants, 203, 263

Newton, Flotman, Norfolk, 183

Nippes near Cologne, 56

Noke, Oxon, 229

Norbury, Derbyshire, 97, 228,
240, 281

Norfolk, I, 13, 23, 27, 53, 100,
176, 274, 282

Normanton, Yorks., 1 5

Northampton, St. Sepulchre, 293

Northamptonshire, I

Northfleet, Kent, 70, 262, 266

Northleach, Gloucs., 107, 201,
207, 208, 253

Northolt, Middx., 116

Northumberland, 27

Northumbria, 47

Northwood, Kent, 287

Norton Disney, Lines., 56, 150,
i84»., 2847?., 287

Norton St. Philip, Somerset, 232«.

Norwich, 12, 13, 108 176,
232«; St. Andrew, 81, 218;
St. Clement, 282 ; St. George
Colegate, 217; St. Giles, 217,
265, 266 ; St. John de Sepul-
chre, 184; St. John Madder-
market, 64^., 81, 99, 207, 2 12,

218, 283; St. Laurence, 96,

217; St. Margaret, 285; St.

Michael at Thorn, 26 ; St.

Peter Mancroft, 45, 176; St.

Stephen, 130, 218, 263
Nousis, S. Finland, 43 ».
Noyon, 86».

Nuffield, Oxon., 199
Nunkeeling, Yorks., 1 5
Nymwegen, 59

O

Oakwood, Surrey, 191

Ockenden, North, Essex, 2l«.

Ockham, Surrey, 71, 83

Oddington, Oxon., 25

OfFord Darcy, Hunts., 133, 262

Ogbourne St. George, Wilts., 211

Okeover, Staffs., 39, 260, 296-7

Olveston, Gloucs., 178

Ore, Sussex, 202, 244, 251

Orford, Suffolk, 3 1

Ormesby, Great, Norfolk, 178, 259

Ormskirk, Lanes., 181

Orpington, Kent, 138

Oscott Coll., see Birmingham

Ostia, 77 «.

Otterden, Kent, 35, 163

Oulton, Suffolk, II, 34, 647/.

Outwell, Norfolk, 231

Over, Cheshire, 181

Over Winchendon, Bucks., 97

Owston, Yorks., 203, 256

Oxford, 26, 65, 122; All ^Souls'
College, 89, 91, 104, 138-41;
Bodleian Library, 7, I4»., 28».,
126/?. ; Brazenose College, 141 ;
Broadgates Hall, 141, 234;
Christ Church, 87, 95, II4».,
1 15«., 198;/., 208, 243 245 «.;
(St. Frideswide's), 97 ; Exeter
College, II4». ; Magdalen Col-
lege, 82, 92, 94, 134-8, 141 ;
Merton College, 22, 25, 64, 71,
83^ 85, 90, 93, 102-4, 126, 128,
134, 136, 137; New College,
14, 70, 74, 78-80, 82, 89, 101,
124, iiSn., 128, 130-5, 138-41,
211 ; -Oriel College, 127^. ;
Queen's College, 14, 77, 89, 93,
113, 117, 128, 132; St. Aldate,
141, 234; St. John's College,
115; St. Mary the Virgin, 94,

36o

INDICES

I27»., 141 ; St. Mary.Magdalen,
56//. St. Michael, II4«. ; St.
Peter in the East, 45,56^., 133,
218,287; Wadham College, 185

P

Paderborn, 57, 74«., 83

Painswick, Gloucs., 187

Pakefield, Suffolk, 136

Paris, 127; Bibliotheque Nation-
ale, 7»., 52 «; Eglise des Math-
urins, i66«. ; Louvre, 5?/.;
Musee des Monuments fran9ais,
192 ».; Saint Antoine, 192
Sainte Catherine du Val des
Ecoliers, 192//.

Paston, Norfolk, 45

Pavia, 77 «.

Pays de Caux, Normandy, 272 ».
Pebmarsh Essex, 21//,, 151
Peckham, West, Kent, 273, 277
Peel, Isle of Man, Castle, II5«. ;

St. Germain's Cathedral, 27, 1 1 5
Pelham, Furneaux, Herts., 205, 265
Pembridge, Herefordshire, 230
Penn, Bucks., 292
Penshurst, Kent, 212
Pepper Harrow, Surrey, 267
Peterborough, 2 1 ff., 5 8//., 96, 126;/.
Petherton, South, Somerset, 169,

260

Pinner, Middx., 45
Pleshey, Essex, 187
Pluckley, Kent, 169, 277
Plumstead, Little, Norfolk, 182
Poissi, Notre Dame, i6«.
Poitiers, 86 n.
Poland, Prussian, 44, 52
Pool, South, Devon, 1 1 1
Posen, 83

Pottesgrove, Beds., 45, 212
Powderham, Devon, 279
Preston Bagot, Warwickshire, 23 2 n.
Preston in Amounderness, Lanes.,
13

Preston near Faversham, Kent,
165, 174

Q

QUAINTON, Bucks., 104, 244«.

Quethiock, Cornwall, 94, 108

214W., 216, 269, 298
Quinton, Gloucs., 265
Quy, Cambs., 175, 270

R

Rainham, Essex, 177/7., 271

Rainham, Kent, 2 1 1

Rainham, East, Norfolk, 107

Ramsey, Hunts., 41, 95, 126ft.

Reveningham, Norfolk, 274

Ravenna, 68, 78

Rawmarsh, Yorks., 214, 316

Reading Abbey, i26«. ; St. Law-
rence, 38

Redbourne, Lines., 4

Redgrave, Suffolk, 151 «.

Redlynch, Somerset, 275

Reepham, Norfolk, 161, 244, 251

Rhuddlan, N. Wales, 4

Ringstead, Great, Norfolk, 134

Ringstead in Zealand, 44, 58, 244 ».

Ringwood, Hants, 90, 93

Ripley, W. Yorks., 40, 100

Ripon Cathedral, 191

Rochester, Cathedral, 6 ; St, Mar-
garet, 40, 72

Roding, Essex, 35

Rodmarton, Gloucs., 226, 232

Romaldkirk, N. Yorks., 71

Rome, 68, 88

Rotherham, Yorks., 213
Rothwell, Northants, 51, 87, 91,
93

Rougham, Norfolk, 191, 229, 256,
272

Routh, E. Yorks., 165, 190, 257,
261

Roxby Chapel, Yorkshire, 180
Roydon, Essex, 191, 273
Royston, Herts., 33, 97K., 137
Rudstone, Yorks., 15

INDICES

361

Rusper Sussex, 200, 246

Ruthin, Denbighshire, II2»., 217,

298, 3i5» 317
Ryther, Yorks., 242 ».

S

Saffron Walden, Essex, 70, g$n.,

273, 283
St. Alban's, Herts., 40, 43, 46-8,

49«., 50-2, 84;/., 95, 96, 97«.,

142, 175, 191, 207, 211; St.

Michael, 201, 203
St. Asaph, 139
St. Breock, Cornwall, 211
St. Bride's, Glamorgan, 4
St. Columb Major, Cornwall, 182,

185, 216, 281, 292
St. David's, 133

St. Denis, France, 5, 149 »., 192;;.
St. Erme, Cornwall, 233
St. Giles-in-the-Wood, Devon, 262
St. Gluvias, Cornwall, 210
St. Ives, Cornwall, 268
St. Just-in- Roseland, Cornwall, 85,
88, 91

St. Lawrence, Thanet, 165, 191,
274

St. Mellion, Cornwall, 180, 282
St. Memmie, near Chalons-sur-

Marne, 7
St. Michael Penkivel, Cornwall,

136, 180, 185
St. Nicholas, Thanet, 287;/.
St. Osyth, Essex, 15, 230 «.
St. Trond, 84

St. Yved de Braine, France, 147/.
Salisbury, See of, 17, 57, 75, 83,

l87«. ; Cathedral, 3, 4, 7, 80,

113, 115, 192; St. Thomas the

Martyr, 30«., 214, 286
Sail, Norfolk, 45, 235
Saltwood, Kent, 71, 169
Sandal Parva, W. Yorks., 80
Sanderstead, Surrey, 233
Sandwich, Kent, St. Peter, 152

I58».

Sarum, Old, 4«.

Sawbridgeworth, Herts., 169, 184,

264, 288, 289
Sawley, Derbyshire, 191
Sawston, Cambs., 82
Sawtry, All Saints, Hunts., 25 J
Saxony, 59
Schwerin, 27, 44, 83
Scotland, 27, 307
Scrivelsby, Lines., 179, 261;;.
Sculthorpe, Norfolk, 175, 234
Seclin, near Lille, 3
Sedgebrook, Lines., 229
Sedgefield, Durham, 241
Seend, Wilts., 21 1
Sefton, Lanes., 182, 183, 279,

284;/.
Sens, 69?;.

Sessay, Yorks., 89, 90, 94
Sevenhampton, Gloucs., 210
Seville, 25

Shalston, Bucks., 98, 294
Sheepy Magna, Leics., 33
Sheldwich, Kent, 252
Shelford, Great, Cambs., 90
Shelford, Little, Cambs., 163, 255;/.,
265

Sherborne, Dorset., 58^.; Castle,

Dorset, 192, 193 w.
Sherborne St. John, Hants, 199,

H5, 295
Shernbourne, Norfolk, 172, 174,
268

Shillingford, Devon, 279

Shillington, Beds., 91

Shopland, Essex, 192

Shorwell, Isle of Wight, 106

Shotesham St. Mary, Norfolk, 283

Shottesbrooke, Berks., 70, 1 80, 200,
201, 214, 254, 286, 315

Shrawardine, Salop, 295?/.

Shrewsbury, Abbey, 198;;.; Bat-
tlefield Church, I57«. ; St.
Alkmund, 198, 201 »., 246

Sibson, Leics., 95

Siena, 48 «.

Skipton-in-Craven, Yorks., 188

362

INDICES

Places Slapton, Bucks., 214W.

Slaugham, Sussex, 193, 280
Snettesham, Norfolk, 215
Snoring, Great, Norfolk, 167, 257
Sodor and Man, See of, 115
Somerton, Oxon., 234
Sotterley, Suffolk, 171, 175, 176,

273, 287
Soutliacre, Norfolk, 107, 159, 161.
248

Southfleet, Kent, 204, 211, 234,
256

Southminster, Essex, 213, 216
Southwark, see London
Southwick, Hants., 181
Spain, 6;;., 26/7., 255 w.
Spilsby, Lines., 163, 245, 252, 260
Springfield, Essex, 168
Sprotborough, Yorks., 8»., 172,
266

Sprowston, Norfolk, 286
Stalbridge, 28

Stamford, Lines., All Saints', 88,

217, 218, 268
Standon, Herts., 172, 218, 271
Stanford-in-the-Vale, Berks., 71
Stanford-on-Soar, Notts., 70, 10 1
Stanford Rivers, Essex, 23, 180
Stanstead Abbotts, Herts., 234
Stanstead Montfitchet, Essex, z\n.
Stanton Harcourt. Oxon., 70
Stapleford, Leics., 278
Stebbing, Essex, 247
Steeple Langford, Wilts., 4
Stevenage, Herts., 92^., 139
Stevington, Beds., 165, 168
Stifford, Essex, 71
Stockton, Wilts., 295 «.
Stoke-by-Nayland, Suffolk, 150,

160, i87»., 280, 291, 292, 316
Stoke Charity, Hants, 64^., 176,

272/;., 298
Stoke D'Abernon, Surrey, 17, 20,

H5, 146^ 152, 266
Stoke Fleming, Devon, 201, 244/;.,
254

Stoke-in-Teignhead, Devon, 70

Stoke, North, Oxon., 92
Stoke Poges, Bucks., 168, 265
Stokerston, Leics., 171
Stokesby, Norfolk, 176, 275
Stondon Massey, Essex, 45
Stone, Kent, 22
Stopham, Sussex, 269, 291
Stourmouth, Kent, 136
Stralsund, St. Nicholas, 44, 45, 50

Strata Florida Abbey, \c)%n.
Strata Marcella Abbey, 198 w.
Stratford, 31

Stratford St. Mary, Suffolk, 2 1 3
Stratton, Cornwall, 182, 286
Streatley, Berks., 289
Strelley, Notts., 273
Strensham, Worcs., 182, 184, 27^
Strethall, Essex, 104
Stretham, Cambs., 264, 267
Sudborough, Northants, 68, 71

205, 264
Sudbury, Suffolk, 31, 94
Suffolk, 13, 27, 31, 176
Sulgrave, Northants, 34
Surlingham, Norfolk, 136
Sutton Coldfield, Warwickshire

290

Sutton, East, Kent, 14, 55, 185

216, 291, 292
Swainswick, Somerset, 207
Swallowfield, Berks., 179, 285
Swanscombe, Kent, 295 w.
Swansea, Glam., 180, 193
Syon, Bridgetine Convent of, 98,

99

T

Tamworth, Warwickshire, 14,233
Taplow. Bucks., 103?/., 197, 208,
295

Tattershall, Lines., 67»., 91, 93,
130, 134, I74r 186, 204, 267,
296

Tattisfylde, Kent, 116
Taunton, 132
Tenos, 8o».

INDICES

363

Tew, Great, Oxon., 15 163,

Tewkesbury Abbey, 58^.

Teynham, Kent, 191

Thame, Oxon., 171, 175, 181,

182, 261, 265, 268
Thannington, Kent, 179
Thaxted, Essex, 136
Theddlethorp, Lines., l64».
Thetford Priory, Norfollc, 187
Theydon Gernon, Essex, 88
Thirsk, Yorks., 43
Thorn, in Prussian Poland, 44, 49,

52, 244 w.
Thornbury, Gloucs., 287
Thorncombe, Devon, 204, 206,

259

Thornton, Bucks., 175, 232, 269,
271

Thornton-le-Street, Yorks., 15
Thruxton, Hants, 168
Thurcaston, Leics., gin.
Thurlow, Great, Suffolk, 266, 283
Thurrock, West, Essex, 215
Ticehurst, Sussex, 40
Tideswell, Derbyshire, 8 1
Tilbrook, Beds., 203, 256
Tillingham, Essex, 215
Tilty, Essex, 96
Tingewick, Bucks., 14, 116
Tintagil, Cornwall, 262
Tintinhull, Somerset, 93
Tisbury, Wilts., 214
Todwick, Yorks., 215
Tolleshunt Darcy, Essex, 45, 81,
I38«.

Tong, Salop, 94, 100, 102, 136,
17I; 172, 175,264, 266, 271

Topcliffe, Yorks., 43, 45, 48, 50-2,
201, 244, 247

Toppesfield, Essex, 283

Tormarton, Gloucs., 210

Tor Mohun, Devon, 287

Torrington, Devon, 262

Tottenham High Cross, 185/?.

Totternhoe, Beds., 97 »,

Tredington, Worcs., 89, 94

Trotterscliffe, Kent, 234
Trotton, Sussex, 13, 57, 168, 186,

i87«., 190, 206, 239, 257
Trumpington, Cambs., 17, 20,

145-7

Trunch, Norfolk, 1 3 w.
Tuxford Hall, Notts., I27».

U

Ufford, Suffolk, 274
Ufton, Warwickshire, 116
Ulverstone, Lanes., 290
Upchurch, Kent, 199, 241, 247
Upminster, Essex, 81, 84, 268,

296
Upsala, 43 w.

Upton Cressett, Salop, 15
Upton Lovel, Wilts., 71
Upwell, Norfolk, 66, 68, 7 1

V

Vauluisant Abbey, 242 ».

Verden, 16, 63

Vernon, Normandy, 175 «.

Verona, 77 «.

Vienne, 94 w.

Villers, Brabant, 7

W

Walcherf.n, 56

Waldingfield, Little, Suffolk, 211,

283
Wales, 27

Walkern, Herts., 45, 234
Wallop, Nether, Hants, 98
Walsham, North, Norfolk, 100
Walsingham, Little, Norfolk, 100
Waltham Abbey, 95»., 96«.
Waltham, Lines., 297
Waltham, Little, Essex, 174
Walthamstow, Essex, 1407/.
Walton-on-Thames, Surrey, 24,
289

Walton-on-Trent, Derbyshire, i o i

364

INDICES

Places Wanborough, Wilts,, 204, 263
Wandsworth, Surrey, 192
Wanlip, Leics., 252
Wantage, Berks., 71, 105
Wappenham, Northants, 228
Warbleton, Sussex, 90, 93
Wardour Castle, Wilts., 45, 51
Warkworth, Northants, 171
Warley, Little, Essex, 24 ».
Warminghurst, Sussex, 286
Warter Priory, Yorks., 97 ».
Warwick, St. Mary, 9»., 36, 90/?.,

162, 252, 303-6.
Warwickshire, I4«., 303
Waterpery, Oxon., 39, 249, 281
Watford, Herts., 227
Wath, N. Yorks., 227
Watlington, Norfolk, 2i».
Watton, Herts., 91, 160
Weald, South, Essex, 215, 229,
270

Wedmore, Somerset, 185
Weekley, Northants, 223 «.
Welford, Berks, 136
Welford, Northants, 233
Wellesbourne, Warwickshire, 191
Wells Cathedral, 4, 8o«., 87«.,

io8«., 114, 133, 140
Welpe, Lower Saxony, 16
Wendens Ambo, Essex, 163
Wendon Lofts, Essex, 95 w.
Wendron, Cornwall, 94, 139
Wennington, Essex, 249//.
Wensley. Yorks., 43, 46, 49, 50-3,

70, lOI
Westerham, Kent, 116, 212
Westley Waterless, Cambs., 13,

152, 241
Westminster, see London
Westmonstre, Holland, 56
Westmorland, 27
Weston, North, Oxon., 10 1
Weston-upon-Avon, Gloucs., 179,

182

Wetherden, Suffolk, 3 I
Whaddon, Bucks., 230
Whalley, Lanes., io6».

Whatley, Somerset, I52».
Wheathampstead, Herts., 207, 263
Whichford, Warwickshire, 116
Whissonsett, Norfolk, 176
Whitchurch, Oxon., 116, 139,

i64»., 168 '
Whitnash, Warwickshire, 13, 10 1,

137

Wicken, Cambs., 34

Wickham, East, Kent, 197, 199,

2I4»,, 242
Wigtoft, Lines., 30
Wilberfosse, Yorks., 263
Wilbraham, Little, Cambs., 125,

.137

Willesden, Middx., 131, 234, 316
Willingale Doe, Essex, 174, 287,
294W.

Wilmslow, Cheshire, 174, 296
Wimbish, Essex, 154, 156, 243
Wimborne Minster, Dorset, 17,

.58.

Wimington, see Wymington
Wimpole, Cambs,, 140
Winchester, 64;/., 142; College,

26, 37, 71, 72, 88-90, 93, 94,

114, 141, 264, 316; St. Cross,

10, 86, 93, 126, 130
Windsor Castle, 310; St. George's,

92, 132, i88«,
Winestead, E. Yorks., 45, 281
Wingfield, Suffolk, i68».
Winkfield, Berks., zi^n.
Winterbourne, Gloucs., 246
Winwicic, Lanes., 83, 180, 181,

279

Wisbeach, Cambs., 163
Wiston, Sussex, 57, 168
Withington, Salop, 89, 94
Wittenham, Little, Berks,, 210,
300

Witton (Blofleld), Norfolk, 98
Wivenhoe, Essex, 180, 281
Wiveton, Norfolk, loi
Wixford, Warwickshire, 167, 256
Wooburn, Bucks., 135, 300
Woodbridge, Suffolk, 299

INDICES

365

Woodchurch, Kent, 64, 181
Wood Ditton, Cambs., 252
Woodrising, Norfolk, i88«.
Woodstock, Oxon., 140
Worcester, See of, 80, 114;

Cathedral, 240 k.
Worlingworth, Suffolk, 106
Wotton- under -Edge, Gloucs.,

I04ff., 161, 191, 254
Wrentham, Suffolk, 184, 254
Writtle, Essex, 214, 229, 296
Wrotham, Kent, 177, 279, 290
Wroxall Abbey, Warwickshire, 262
Wroxeter, Salop, 223 «.
Wycliffe, Yorks., 300
Wymington, Beds., 102, 165, 168,

201, 247, 256, 315
Wyrardisbury, Bucks., 1 42
Wyvenhoe, Essex, 10 1, 102

Y Places

Yarnton, Oxon., 218
Yatton, Somerset, 227/?.
Yaxham, Norfolk, 71
Yealmpton, Devon, 45
Yeldham, Great, Essex, 235
Yeovil, Somerset, 97?/.
Yetminster, Dorset, 180
York, 12, 13; See of, 69W., 113,

ii5». ; Minster, 24Z?., 32, 64,

75, 79» 83»., 90, 134, 198?/. ;

St. Mary's Abbey, \z6n; St.

Michael Spurriergate, 100
Yorkshire, 13, 23, 100
Yoxford, Suffolk, 262 290, 295 n.

Z

Zealand, 44

OF COSTUME

A

Academical Costume, 65, 91, 102,

119-42
Allettes, 147-51

Alb, 46, 47, 5 I 66 (described),
71, 72, 85, 86, 91, 92, i37«. ;
apparels of, 46, 47, 6^n., 82;
figures of saints on, 84;;. ; for-
bidden, 108 ; girdle or cord of,
66, 67 »,, 258 ; plain {a3a />ura),
107

Alba (alb), 66

Almayne rivets, 177

Almuce, 8,40,41, 65, 86-8 (de-
scribed), 92, 94-5, 105, 109;/.,
no, 122, 124, 132, 138, 316;
absence of, 140 ; morse of, 87

Almutium (almuce), 86

Amess (almuce), 65, 86

Amice, 40, 41, 46, 47, 51H., 65
(described), 71, 72, 91, 102,
I37«., 258, 307; apparels of,
47, 65 ; arms on, 83 ; inscrip-
tions on, 83, 84W. ; saints on,
84«.

Amictus (amice), 65

Amys (almuce), 65, 86

Anabolagium (amice), 65

Anelace, 104, 173, 198-208,210;
worn by Judges, 227; scabbard
or sheath of, 200, 205, 208 ; see
bastardeau

Annulus (episcopal ring), 74

Apparels of amice and alb, 65 n.

Arming points, 1 5 i

Armour (Military Costume), 39 w.,
143-93, 229, 231-4; Periods of :
Surcoat, 145-51; Mixed Mail
and Plate (Cyclas), 152-4 ; tran-
sition, 154-6; Camail, 156-64;

Complete Plate, 164-9 I Yorkist,
169-76; Early Tudor or Mail
Skirt, 177-83 ; Tasset, 183-6;
Garter Knights, 186-8; Livery
Collars, 188-92
Aumusse (almuce), 86
Aurifrigia (orphrey), 65 «.
Aventaille, see Helm

B

Backplate, 160, 164, 170
Baculus pastoralis (episcopal cro-

zier), 75
Baguette, mail, 171 ; plate, 164
Bainbergs (jambs), 1 5 i
Baltheus (alb girdle), 66
Bandeau (hair fillet), 245
Bands (legal), 103 »., 222 «., 224,

230; (female), 291; bandbox,

291 ».
Banner, 168

Barbe (monastic female), 98, 99 ;
plaited (female), 245, 247, 264,
266 ; absence of, 253, 264

Barbes d'ecrevisses (dagging), 159

Bards (horse armour), I56«.

Bascinet, 152-5, 172, 174; orle or
wreath of, 163, 168; vervelles
of, 152, 157; vizor of, 154, 155,
157, 162, 164

Bases, 177

Basilard, 159, 200

Bastardeau (small knife), 205, 208,
210

Baton (military), 192 ; (scholastic),
97

Bawdric, 159, 160, 163, 168, 198,

202 ; initials on, 164
Bear-paw sabbatons, 178
Beard, see hair

INDICES

367

Bee de cane sabbatons, 178
Belt, see sword
Birch rod, 97

Birettum album (coif), 222

Bliaus (surcoat), 147

Bodice, 291, 293 ; vandyked skirt

of, 291
Bongrace, 288
Bonnet, 245/?., 275, 284
Book hanging from waist, 285
Boots, half, 205-8 ; jack, 185, 215-

Bourrelet, 209

Bouterolle of scabbard, 148

Brassarts, 151, 156, 1 64 ; rerebraces,

151, 158, 1 64 ; absence of, 1 5 3 ;

vambraces, \^on., 151-3, 158,

164, 170W.
Brayette, 171

Breastplate, 160, 162, 164, 170;

peascod, 183
Brech-rand, 177K.
Breeches, 185 ; see Stocks, upper
Buskins (episcopal), 73
Butterfly head-dress, 1 1 n., 270-2,

274-6; cornet of, 271 2727;.,

275 ; drawn en profile, 272 ;

wires sustaining, 271 «.
Buttons, 198-200, 202-3, 215,217,

242, 244-56

c

Calash (caleche), 288, 291
Caligae (episcopal buskins), 73
Camail (mail), 152-4, 157, 159,
160, 162-4; period, 156-64,
186, 192, 250W.
Cambuca (episcopal crozier), 76
Camisia vestis (cassock), 85
Campagae (episcopal sandals), 73
Cannons, nebule-shaped, 216
Cap, academical, 102, io5«., I2iff.,
125, 128, 133,/^-^ Pileus: square,
/^^Pileusquadratus; civilian, 2 1 6,
2I7«. ; ecclesiastical skull cap,

113, 116, 117; priest's square Costume

cap, 121 «.; female, 244, 245,

249, 264, 271, 275, 284, 291,

297 ; flat, 297 ; Mary Queen

of Scots, 284; tam-o'-shanter,

283; Garter, /^-i? Garter; John

Knox laical, 12577.; legal, high,

226, 232 ; judge's black skull

cap, 223, 22677. ; judge's square

or corner (sentence) cap, 121 77.,

223

Capa manicata, 12477.
Cape, female, 282 ; legal fur, see
tippet

Cappa (cope), 88, clausa, 10377.,
109, 123-5, 127, 130; nigra
(choral cope), 91-2, 1 10 ; pluvi-
alis (choral cope), 9777.; serica
(cope), 88, 1 13 77.

Caputium (hood of cope), 88

Carcanet (necklace), 272

Cardinal (hood), 288, 293

Cassacca (cassock), 85

Cassock, 40,41, 72, 85-6, 92, 95-7,
100, 102, 104-7, 112, 1 14-17,
123, 124, 127, 128-38, 316

Casula (chasuble), 69 ; (Roman
costume), 69

Catercap, 1 25 77.

Cauchoise head-dress, 27277.

Cauls of head-dress, 245, 253, 255,
258, 260, 262, 263, 268-70,
274-6; square, 257, 261; un-
ornamented, 259, 260, 262, 267

Cerveliere, plate, 146

Chains for neck (civilian), 213;
(military), 179-82 ; (female),
268, 277-9, 281; pendant, see
cross

Chamfron (chanfrien), horse ar-
mour, 15677.

Chape of scabbard, 148

Chapelle de fer (kettle hat), 155

Chaperon, 12477., 197-200, 202;
liripipe of, 202 ; scarf-like, 209,
210, 234; worn turban-wise,
20677., 209 ; hood, 49, 198, 200,

368

INDICES

202-6, 209, 210, 270; tippet,
198, 201, 209
Charles II. 's Court, female dress of,
293

Chasuble, 46, 47, 6477., 67, 69-70
(described), 72, 78-9, 80, 82,
88 ». ; use forbidden, 108 ; worn
over armour, 1 80 ; orphreys of,
47, 64 w., 65 K., 70, 311 ; orna-
mentation of, 83 ; cross on, 83 ;
inscriptions on, 84 ; saints on,
84, 3 1 1 ; personal devices on,
311-12 ; rarity of, 83 ; heraldic,
83«., 311-12

Chau9ons, 149, 151 ; see cmsseaux

Chausses (mail), 146, 156-8

Chesible (chasuble), 69

Chimere (episcopal habit), 108,
109, 1 13-14, 121 123W.

Chin-cloth, 264; see barbe

Chirothecas (episcopal gloves), 73

Chlamys, 217

Cidaris (mitre), 74-5

Cingulum (alb girdle), 66

Clerical habit, 65, 103-7

Cloak, short, 186, 213-16, 300

Coat, buff, 185

Cod-piece, mail, 171

Coif, I03»., 222-6, 230, 231;
absence of, 227-30 ; strings of,
222 ».

Coifde mailles, 146, 147,149,150,

152, 182, 239W.
Cointisse, 148

Collars, 185, 186, 215 ; lace, 216;
female lace, 291 ; see falls ; mail,
171 ; plate, 154; livery, 163,
169, 173, 174, 182, 191 ; devices
employed on, 189-90 (Lancas-
trian, Yorkist, Tudor) ; of SS.,
162, 164, 167, 168, 186, 188-90,
192, 204, 2o6w. ; female, 248,
256, 257, 259, 261, 262; pen-
dant of, 257; trefoil toret or
clasp, 192 ; of Suns and Roses,
I73» 17s. 176, 186, 188, 190,
191, 229; female, 270,273,274;

pendant, white lion couchant of
March, 192, 208, 270 ; suns and
roses on head-dress, 269 ; of mer-
maids, 162, 191 ; of park palings
with pendant, hart lodged, 191 w.

Colobium (alb), 66, 108 ; (Roman
costume), 66

Comb, hair, 289

Cope, 40, 67«., 71, 72, 87, 88-91
(described), 92-5, 102, 107, 1 14,
122, 124, 129, 130, I37»., 138,
264, 307, 316; use forbidden,
108; embroidered throughout,
89 ; hood of (caputium), 88 ;
morse of, 88 ; decorated, 91-2 ;
orphreys of, 6^fi., 89-90, 12377.,
3 1 1 77. ; figures of saints and per-
sonal devices on, 71, 79, 90, 93,
22477., 3ii»., 312
Cope, choral, monastic, plain, 8677.,

89, 91-2, 96, 9777., no, 138
Cornet, see Butterfly head-dress
Coronet, 253, 258, 260, 269, 270,

27877., 281
Cote hardie (male), 49, 199-201,
243 ; semee of peascods (?) parti-
coloured, 201 ; long, 1037/., 197;
pockets of, 197; short (just au
corps), 198; liripipia of, 10377.,
1 97-200 ; mitten sleeves of, 198 ;
(female), 239-51; semee of
shields, 239 ; liripipia or lappets
of, 242, 243, 246, 249, 250;
pockets of, 245, 249 ; sideless,
female, 241, 243, 244, 248-52,
254, 257-60, 266, 268-70, 273,
275, 278-81 ; ermine or fur
flounce of, 249, 250, 258, 269,
270, 275, 279-81 ; ornamenta-
tion of, 244, 248-50, 252, 257
Cote, ijiedlee, 224; regal, 58
Coudi^res, 1 5 i
Couteau de chasse, 200
Coutes, 151, 152, 154, 158, 164,
170, 176, 177, 181 ; buckle-
shaped, 165; fan-shaped, 165
Covrechef, 239-44, 246, 264

INDICES

369

Cowl, Benedictine, 96 ; Cistercian,
96

Cow-mouth sabbatons, 178
Crespine head-dress, 245, 253"5>

257, 260
Crest, see Helm

Crestine head-dress, 2^^ ; see Cres-
pine

Crinet (horse armour), l^6n.
Crinoline, 288
Croc, 192

Cross, pendant, 213, 268, 277, 278,
281 ; Tau, 179, 181, 278, 279
Cross-guard, see Sword
Cross-stafF, archiepiscopal, 6^n., 77
Croupiere (horse armour), 156s.
Crown, regal, 58, 155
Crozier, see Pastoral StafF
Cubitiere, 1 5 i

Cucullus (cowl), Benedictine, 96
CufFs, 185, 215

Cuirass, 162, 170, 171, 177; tapul
of, 171, 177, 180; heraldic
(Molyneux), 182; see' breast-
plate

Cuirasse, defaut de la, 158
Cuir-bouilli, 146

Cuisseaux gamboises, 149, 151,1 54,
156

Cuisses, 158, 165, 178; pour-
pointed or studded, 160, 161
Culettes, 178

Cyclas, 152-4; period, 152-4
D

Dagger, i53»., 183, 304; see

Misericorde ; sash of, 183
Dagging, I58»., 159, I98».
Dalmatic, 41, 46, 66, 72-3, 83
Diamond-shaped head-dress, 275
Doublet, 1 16-17, ^32, I4°> H'''
212-15, 217, 300

E

^y^Hpiov (maniple), 68
Eighteenth century female costume,
one instance on a brass, 293

Elbow-cop, 151 Costume

Epauli^res, 154, 156, 158, 164,

170, 171 ; splint-like, 171
^■mTpa-^rjXiov (stole), 66

Epomis (amice), 65

Ermine on robes of C.J., 226^?.;
see cote hardie, sideless

Escoffion cornue (horned head-
dress), 258

Estivals (horse armour), 156/?.

F

Falls, collars, 291, 292

Fan, feather, 292

Fanon (maniple), 68

Farthingale, 288, 291 ; wheel, 288

Fermailes, see mantle, female

Ferula (pastoral staff), 76

Ferule (scholastic), 97 «.

Fichus, 291

Fillet, tee Hair

Flail, military, 193

Flanchi^re (horse armour), i^6n.

Frills, 179, 183, 185, 214, 280,

285 ; see Head-dress
Frontlet, see Pedimental head-dress
Fustis cornutus (croc), 192

G

Gadlings, see Gauntlet
Gambeson, leather, 146
Garde de bras, 170, 177
Garde de cou, I77».
Garland, maiden, 245, 294-6
Garter, Order of. Mantle of Canons,

91, 92, 135; morse of, 92;

Mantle of Knights of, 174, 176,

186, 187 ; badge of, 186-7;

surcoat of, 187 ; jewelled cap of,

187; Collar of, 187, 189;

Humerale (hood) of, 187, 209;

Garter, 186-8, 304
Garters, 213

Gauntlets, 156, 158, 165, 179, 180,
181, 184; absence of, 168, 171,

2 B

370

INDICES

Costume 17^; shell-backed, 158, 172;
gadlings of, 158

Genouillieres, 146, 153-4, 158,
l6l»., 165, 171, 178, 181,
183-5 ; pot-lid shape of, 158

Girdle, male, 199-201, 203-5, 207-
13,215 ; initial T on, 201, 203 ;
absence of, 203-5 ? J^'^g^'sj 227*
229 ; female, see Gown ; female
monastic, 98, 99 ; child's, 299

Gloves (episcopal), 76 ; jewelled,
46; absence of, 8 1 ; monial on, 73

Gloves, 150; see Gauntlet

Gonfanon of lance, 148

Gorget, plate, 154, 155, 162-4,
i68«., 170, 174, 177, 182, 185 ;
female, 242-5, 247

Gown, academical, 122, 123;
doctor's scarlet, 114W. ; M.A.,
112, ii5». ; B.A., 112; with
two slits, see taberdum talare ;
bag-sleeved male, 142, 202, 203 ;
sleeves of, pokys, bagpipe, 203 n. ;
female, 232, 255-7, 262-3,268,
297; girdle of, 256-7, 262;
mantle worn with, 263 ; cassock-
like male, 142, 208, 212; clerical,
103 preaching, 112, 113,
1 1 6- 1 7 ; Genevan, 1 1 2 «. ; false-
sleeved male, 112, 113, 1 15-17,
131-3, 140, 141, 212, 213, 215,
2 17 M., 233-5 ; fen^'il^j 284; fur-
lined male, 210, 233 ; fur-lined
and cuffed female, 267-9, ^7^>
272-4, 276, 278, 281-2; em-
broidered throughout, 273 ;
heraldic, 276 ; diapered lining
of, 272 ; girdle of, ornamented,
267, 272, 276, 277 ; open, fe-
male, with puffed sleeves, 281,
282, 284, 288 ; embroidered,
290; scarlet, of Judges, 223 »,;
surplice-sleeved female, 254, 255,
258, 260, 264; girdle of, 255 ;
swan on collar of, 261 ; see
Houppelande ; female with wide
sleeves (sixteenth century), 280

Guige, see Shield
Gussets, see Mail

Gypci^re (gibier) purse, 199, 209-
13,215; worn by Judges, 227-9

H

Habergeon, 157

Habit, Benedictine, 96, I22».

Habi tus clericalis, see Clerical habit

Hair, male: beards, 159, 167 «.,
179, 182, 183, 198-201, 203-5,
213; moustache, 115, 159, 1 79,
183, 198,-203,213; tonsure,223,
226; absence of, 107, 1 1 2, 1 30 ;
female, curls worn in, 291, 293 ;
false, 245 ; flowing, 245, 294-8 ;
short, 295 ; plaited, 241-3, 248,
295, 297 ; remarkable dressing
of, 288-9 » fillets containing, 239,
243-5 (bandeau), 2j\.S,z^z,2^^?i.,
294-7 ; roll-shaped, 297

Halberd, 193, 214//.

Handkerchief, 292, 299

Hat, Cardinal's, 64 «. ; Doctor's,
1 2 1 122; broad-brimmed,
civilian, 215 ; female, 289,290,
292-4 ; kettle, 155

Haukcton, leathern, 146, 149, 153,

I54» I57» I7i»

Hausse-col (mail), 171

Hawberk (mail), 146, 147, 149,
152-4, 157, 159-61, 163 ; gloves
of, 146, 149

Head-dress, female, 258??.; frills
on, 245, 264; lace used on,
289 ». ; network ornamented or
jewelled, 245,253, 255 ; pearls,
string of, 254; border of, 275 ;
three-cornered, 287; suns and
roses shown on, 269 ; see Bonnet,
Butterfly, Cap, Caul, Coronet,
Covrechef, Cresplne, Diamond,
Hat, Heart, Hennin, Hood,
Horned, Kennel, Kerchief, Lu-
nar, Mitre, Nebule, Paris head.

INDICES

371

Pedimental, Reticulated, Steeple,

Veil, Wired, Zig-zag
Heart-shaped head-dress, 258
Helm, tilting, 148, 154, 155, 159,

162-4, 172, I74» 1 75' 1 79-84*
187, 304, 305 ; vizor of, 175 ;
aventaille (ocularia) of, I48».;
crest, 155, 156;/., 159, 172, 179,
304, 305; panache, 168, 184;
lambrequins, 159, 172; mant-
ling, I79» 1 81

Helmet, 179, 182-4; vizor of, 184;
oreillettes of, 179

Hennin head-dress, 258, 271, 272

Holy-water sprinkler, 193

Hood, academical (caputium), 85,
logn., 1 15-17, 121 »., 124-5,
127-9, ^31-8, 140, 1^1 ; gradu-
ate's, 1 25 ; undergraduate's, 125;
liripipium of, 125 ; (clerical
habit), 100, 104; liripipe of,
1 10; Judges' and Serjeants',
224-6, 228-31; see Chaperon;
female, large (sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries), 288-91, 293 ;
French, head-dress, 284

Horned head-dress, 258, 261, 262,
267, 269-71

Horse armour, I56«.

Hose, tight, 193, 198, 203, 206;
trunk, 183, 213, 215, 300;
bombasted, 214

Houppelande, male, 206 ; female,
255, 260; swan on collar of,
261 ; see gown, surplice-sleeved

Humerale (amice), 65 ; (Garter
hood), see Garter

Hunting-horn, 205

I

Infula (scarf of crozier), 76
Infulae (mitre strings), 75 ; (coif

strings), 222 «.
Inkhorn, 142, 209, 211, 235
Insignia, academical, 122; legal,

223 ; civic, I09«., 217

J

Jack, leathern, 193

Jambs or jambarts, 151, 154, 156,

158, i6i«., 165, 176, 178, 185 ;

studded, 161 «.
Jewel worn on forehead, 288
Jupon, 154-63, i68«. ; heraldic,

155, 159-62, 250».

K

Kennel head-dress, 275
Kerchief (female), 239, 244, 291
Kettle-hat, 155

Kirtle, 239, 241-4, 246-58, 263,
264, 267-70, 272-3, 275-6, 296;
diapered, 252; heraldic, 248,
252, 254, 257, 259,273 ; girdle
of, 248, 252, 258, 260; mitten
sleeves of, 244, 245, 254, 255,
258, 263-5

Knee cops, 146

Labell^ (mitre strings), 75 «.
Lace, see Collar, Head-dress
Lacerna (Roman costume), 88».
Lamboys, skirt of, 177
Lambrequins, see Helm
Lance, 148, 155, 170 ; pennon,

148, 155 ; rest, 171, 177
Lappets, 103 «.; see Paris head,

Pedimental head-dress
Legal Costume, 221-35
Lineas of archiepiscopal pall, 78 «.
Liripipe (academical), 127W., 131,

132, 137W. ; see Chaperon, Cote-

hardie. Hood, Tippet
Lunar head-dress, 258

M

Mace, 179, 192; spiked, 193
Mail, banded, 146, 150-2, 156,
157 ; interlaced, 146, 151, 157 ;

Costume

372

INDICES

fringe of, i6o, 163, 164, 167,
168; gussets of, 157, 171, 174,
178; see Camail, Chausses,
Habergeon, Hawberk

Mail, collar of, 171

Mail skirt, 171, 175, 177, 178,
181-3 ; period, 177-83, 188, 192

Mammeli^res, i^zn., 153

MavSwuc (cope), 88
Manicae (episcopal gloves), 73
Maniple, 41, 46, 47, 68-9; shape

of, 82; absence of, 82, 134;

crosses on, 83W. ; heraldic, 312
Manipulus (maniple), 68
Mantle, male, fastened on right

shoulder, 49, 141, 198, 200,

203, 205 ; fastened on left

shoulder, 182; absence of, 20 1 -2 ;

dagged, 198W. ; civic, 183,217;

Judge's, 223/?., 225, 226, 228;

absence of, 229; regal, 58; see

Garter

Mantle, female, 240, 241, 243,
244, 246-8, 250-5, 257, 258,
260;/., 263, 264, 268, 270, 272-
5, 277-9, ^9^ ' 'ibsence of, 242 ;
diapered, 252; how fastened,
241, 244, 246; ermine-lined,
266, 269 ; hood of, 247 ; cords
of, 246 ; slide, 244, 246 ;
brooches or studs of (tasseaux,
fermailes), 241; heraldic, 181,
187, 188, 252, 254, 259, 269,
273» 27Sy 276, 278-82, 285 ;
monastic, 98 ; absence of, 99

Mantling, see Helm

Mappula (maniple), 68

Martel de fer, 192

Mentoni^re, 172, 176

Mirror hanging from v/aist, 285

Misericorde, 159-61, 165, 173,
174, 178, 192 ; absence of, 168,
169, 171, 173-5

Mitra (mitre), 74-5 ; aurifrigiata,
75 ; pretiosa, 46, 75, 82 ; sim-
plex, 75

Mitre (episcopal), 41, 47, 48, 55

^7"; 74-5» 96, 108, 11^.,

I26«,, 311 ; strings of (infuls,

labellas, vittas), 75
Mitre head-dress, 258, 269, 270
Mitten sleeves, see Cote-hardie,

Kirtle, Subtunica, Undertunic
Monastic habit, male, 95-7; female,

98-9

Monial (ornament of episcopal

gloves), 73
Morning star (morgenstern), 193
Morse of almuce, 87 ; of cope, 88,

91-2
Moton, 170, 171
Mourning, 246 24777.
Moustache, see Hair
Muff-warmer, 277

N

Nebule head-dress, 244, 245, 249-
5^ 253

Necklace, 254, 258, 259, 270, 272,
273» 277, 292 ; pendant of, 254,
258, 259 ; see Chain

Network, see Head-dress

O

OcuLARiA, see Helm

Odovrj (maniple), 68

Q/.io(l>6piov (pall), 78

Qpapiov (stole), 66
Orarium (stole), 66-7 ; (Roman

costume), 78
Oreillettes, see Helmet
Orle, see Bascinet
Orphreys of vestments, 65 ».

P

PiENULA, 69

Palettes, 165, 167-70

Pall, archiepiscopal, 67, 77»., 78 ;

lineas of, 78 w. ; crosses on, 78
Pallium, archiepiscopal, 78 ; or

cloak (Roman costume), 67, 78

INDICES

373

Pallium llnostimum (maniple), 68

Panache, see Helm

Paris head (dress), 282-4, ^^7' ^9^»
296, 298 ; lappet of, jewelled or
embroidered, 284; turned up,
288 ; wires sustaining, 284

Partlet, 279, 280, 285

Parura, see Apparel, 65//.

Passguards, 177

Pastoral staff (crozier, episcopal),
47, 55«-» 75-7, 81, 107, 108,
113, 1 14, 126 K., 31 1 ; scarf of
(infula, vexillum), 76 ; inscrip-
tions on, 77 ; abbess', 98 ; abbot's,
95«., 96

Ilarf jO£<T(ra (pastoral staff), 1 1 3

Pauldrons, 170, 176, 177, 183

Pearls, see Head-dress

Peascod breastplate, 183

Pedimental head-dress, 272, 275,
276, 278, 280, 286, 298 ; dis-
appearance of, 284 ; frontlet of,
embroidered or jewelled, 272,
275, 296, 2987/.; lappets, 276;
turned up, 280; surmounted by

coronet, 188

Pedum (pastoral staff), 76
Pelease (legal tippet), 224
Pellicium (cassock), 85
Penner (pencase), 142, 209, 211,

^35

Pennon, see Lance

Perfume box, 277

Petticoat, embroidered, 284, 285,
288, 291-3; hoop, 288; of
mail, see Mail Skirt

^aivoKiov (chasuble), 69

Pici^re (horse armour), i^dn.

Pike, 185

Pike guards, 177

Pileus, pointed (academical),
109, 125, 127-33, 136,
without point, 107, 125,
quadratus, 1 1 1 «., 1 12-13, 117,
121 «., 125 «.; rotundus, 125 «.
126W.

104,
223 ;
130

Pillion (pileus), cardinal's scarlet, Costume
277 «.

Placcards, 170; demi-, 170
Placcates, 170; demi-, 170, 177
Planeta (chasuble), 69 ; (Roman

costume), 69 ; plicata (chasuble),

69

Plastron de fer, 153

Plate armour. Complete, period of,

160, 164-9, 186
Plates, demi-, 151
Pluviale (cope), 88
Pokys, see Bag-sleeved Gown
Poleyns, 146

Pomander (pomme d'ambre), 277,

281, 282
Pommel, see Sword
Pommes chaufferettes, 277
Pontificalia (pontificals), 3, 16,41,

43» 46, 57» 72-9» 95» io7«.,

I 26».

Pontificals (rings), 74
Pourpoint, 153, 160
Pourpointerie, ouvrage de, 149,

154, 158, 160, 161
Purse, 106, 199; /^•^ gypciere
Pyramidal head-dress, 275

Q

QuiLLONs, see Sword

R

Randt, ijjn.
Rapier, 214, 215
Rerebrace, see Brassart
Reticulated head-dress, 244, 245,

252, 253
Reticule, 282

Ring, episcopal, 74; (academical
insigne), 122 ; female, 247, 253 ;
monastic, 98, 99
Rivets, sliding, " almayne," 177
Roba talaris (academical), 122;
(legal), 226 ».

374

INDICES

E Robe, long, Serjeants', 224, 225,
226«., 230, 231 ; parti-coloured
(medlee cote), 224, 225 w.

Rochet, episcopal, 107-9, ^^3' ^H?
lawn sleeves of, 108, 109, 113,
114, 280; academical, 123;
monastic (Augustinian), 97

Rochetum, rochetto, see rochet

Rosary, 105, 106,208-12,267,269,
276-8, 28 1, 282 ; worn by Judges,
227, 228 ; female monastic, 99

Roundels, 15 1-3, 158, 162, 164,
165, 170, 177

Ruffs, 115, 179, 182, 183, 185,
186, 214, 215; Elizabethan
(female), 285, 288, 291, 292,
300; upheld by wires, 288

S

Sabatyns (episcopal buskins), 73
Sabbatons, 176, 178, 183, 208
Salade, 172, 174-6; vizor of, 172
Sandalia (episcopal sandals), 73 .-
Sandals, episcopal, 46, 73
Sash, military, 185, 216-17; fe-
male, 282
Scabbard, see Sword
Scale work (armour), 153, i6i
Scarf, Black (tippet), 86«., 102,
105, 109-1 13, 115-17; mayoral,
I09»., 217
Sceptre, regal, 58
Scimitar, 193
Shadoe, 288

Shield, 147-9, 151, 153-6, 159,
193 ; absence of, 150; enamelled,
8;guigeof, 147, 153, 154; roses
on, 147 ».; tilting (a bouche),
I77«.

Shoes, male, pointed, 49, 198, 203,
208 ; round-toed, 2 1 o, 2 1 3, 2 1 7 ;
square-toed, 208, 211, 212;
female, broad, 277 ; pointed,
239; round-toed, 285, 289;
rosettes on, 291 ; high heels of,
292

Skirt, of mail, see mail skirt; of

taces, see taces
Skirts, long, of children, 299
Skull cap, see cap

Sollerets, 150^., 151, 154, 158,
161, 165, 176, 178, 208 ; a la
poulaine, 158; lames of, 151

Sotulares (episcopal buskins), 73

Splint armour, 184

Spring pins, 170

Spurs, prick, 146, 153, i54;rowell,
150, 152, 154, 158, 165, 178,
185, 216; spur leathers, 185;
length of, 4

SS., see Collar

Standard (collar), mail, 171, 177;

plate, 162, 164
Starch, 288 «.
Steeple head-dress, 271
Stick held in hand, 216
Stockings, episcopal, 73 ; mail, see

Chausses

Stocks, nether (stockings), 213,217;
upper (breeches), 213-16

^TOf^apiov (alb), 66

Stole, 46, 66-8, 71,110-11; shape
of, 82 ; absence of, 8 1, 82, 1 34 ;
heraldic, 312

Stomacher, peaked or pointed, 288

Stoss-kragen, ijjn.

Subtunica, 82, 86, 1 22, 3 16 ; with
mitten sleeves, worn beneath cas-
sock, 82 ; see Tunic, under

Sudarium (maniple), 68

Suns and roses, see Collar

Superhumerale (amice), 65

Superpellicium (surplice), 86

Supportasse, 288

Surcoat, 145, 147-9, 151, i53»-»
1 56«., 197; superseded by cyclas,
152; see Garter ; female, hood
of, 242 ».

Surcote overte (surcoat, female),
241

Surplice, 40, 41, 72, 85-6, 88, 92,

95, 107-9, 112, 114, 138, 316
Sword, 147, I53»., 159, 161, 165,

INDICES

375

173-6, 178, 183-6, 192, 2I4».,
23 1» 304' 305 ; regal, 58 ; belt,
147, 160, 162-5, i69»., 185;
absence of, 167; initials on, 165;
crossguard, 159; pommel, 147,
159; arms on, I73». ; quillons,
147; 173; scabbard, 147, 159,
162, 178; initials on, 167;
bouterolle or chape of, 148

T

Tabard (academical), sleeved, 1 24,
129, 131, 135-41; sleeveless,
ad medias iibias, 12 4, 132, i35»-j
136-8, 141 ; (legal), sleeved,

224, 225 230, 231 ; heraldic
military, 166-7, 172-3,175,178,
179, 181, 184, 231, 232, 285 ;
female, 285-6

Taberdum talare (academical),
105K., 109, 123, 128, 129, 131,

132» 134

Taces, skirt of, 160, 162-9, ''7^»
174, 177, 1 8 1-3; manner of
fastening, 163 «.

Tapul, see Cuirass

Tasseaux, see Mantle, female, 241

Tassets, 178, 182-5, a I'ecrevisse,
183 ; period, 178, 183-6

Tena (coif), 222

Tenae (coif-strings), 222 «.

Tiara, papal, 64?;.

Tibialia (episcopal buskins), 73

Tilting shield (a bouche), I77».

Tippet (academical), 85, 124, 125,
127-36, 138; liripipesof, izjn.,
(civilian), see Chaperon ; (eccle-
siastical), TOO, 104-5 ; see Scarf,
Black; of sables, 1 10, 277 w.;
monastic, 97 ; (legal) cape, 224,

225, 228, 230, 231 ; Serjeants'
lined with budge (lambs' wool),
224 ; judges' with minever, 226 ;
(regal), ermine, 58

Toga (Roman costume), 69, 78 ;
talaris (academical), 122

Tonsure, see Hair

Toret, see Collar of SS.

Trapper, horse, 156, 311

Trunk hose, see Hose

Tuilles, 166, 168, 169, 171, 174,
176, 178, 180, 181, 183 ; ab-
sence of, 174

Tuillettes, 171

Tunic, long male, 202 ; long female,
c. 1380, 251-4 ; girdle of, 253-4

Tunic, under, 49, 198-200, 203 ;
mitten sleeves of, 49, 199-201,
203, 226, 230; see Subtunica

Tunica alba (alb), 66; Benedictine,
96 ; Cistercian, 96 ; dalmatica
(alb), 66 ; (dalmatic), 72 ; mani-
cata (alb), 66 ; pontificalis (tu-
nicle), 73 ; talaris (cassock), 85 ;
(Roman costume), 66, 67 ; clavi
of, lati and angusti, segmenta,
calliculae of, 66, 67

Tunicella (tunicle), 73

Tunicle, 46, 66, 73, 83, I07 ; ab-
sence of, 81, 83

U

Underpropper, 288
V

Vair, 242, 243, 248

Vambraces, see Brassarts

Vardingale (Fr. vertugale), 288

Veil, 239, 245, 246, 248, 249,
253-5» 257, 258, 260, 261, 267,
268, 270-2, 275, 276, 284, 293,
294 ; absence of, 270 ; monastic
female, 98, 99

Veiled head-dress, 244-7, 253, 263

Velvet, 275, 277 ».

Vervelles, see Bascinet

Vestimentum, a set of vestments,
69 «.

Vestis talaris (cassock), 103
Vestment (chasuble), 107, 108, 307
Vestments, ecclesiastical, 63 ; em-
broidery of, 47, 50; apparels

376

INDICES

Costume

and orphreys, 65?;.; Eucharistic,
see Mass ; Mass, 49, 65-73, 86 w.,
107; Processional or Choral, 85-
95, 126, 128-33
Vexillum (scarf of crozier), 76
Vif de I'harnois, 158
Virago sleeve, 291
Virga pastoralis (pastoral staff), 75
Vittas (mitre strings), 75
Vizor, see Bascinet, Helm, Helmet,

Salade
Volant piece, I77».

W

Waistbelt (girdle), 49
Waistcoat, 217

Widows' weeds, 247, 264
Wig, 109, 217; Serjeants' long,
223

Wimple, 99, 239, 241, 243, 244,
281

Wings or lappets at shoulders, 288
Wired (butterfly) head-dress, 272
Wreath or orle, see Bascinet

Z

Zig-zag head-dress, 244, 245, 249-
.51

Zimarra (simarre) chimere, 109
Zona (alb girdle), 66

GENERAL

See also List of Contents

A

Abbess, 65, 98

Abbot, 17, 2i«„40, 41, 43,46,
.48, 65, 73»., 74, 76, 83;;., 84,
95-7, 1 26;/., i37«., 207, 311,
312

Acolytus, 64

Agnus Dei, 47, 76

Alderman, 205, 217

Altar cover, 312

Ancients (legal), 222;;.

Angels, 47, 48, 50, 51,54, 55>9i»
258, 270, 312; contract for
making, 304-5 ; archangels, 84W.,

92, 268

Apprenticii ad Barros, 222 ; ad
legem, 221, 232, 233

Archbishops, 4, 30, 48«., 55, 64,
67-9* 75» 76«., 77-80, 83-5 ».,
90W., 106, 108, 1 10, 1 13-5, 126

Archdeacons, 51, 86, 87, 89-91,

93, 94, ii3»., 123, I27«., 130,
132, I37«., 141

Architecture (canopies, etc.), 18-20,
23, 41, 42, 44, 47, 50, 51, 54,

55» 57» 79» 148, i5o» i55» iS^w.,
164, 181, 187, 202, 240, 299

Arts, Faculty of, 122, /^-^ Masters

Attornati, 221

B

Bachelor, 122, 125 ; of Arts, 135,
141 ; of Divinity, 92, 116, 117,
132, 134; of Canon Law (De-
crees), 138-9; of Laws, 104,
107, 116; Utriusque Juris, 140,
316 ; of Physic, 140

Bar, the, 221 ; gentlemen under
the, 222 ».

Barristers, 232, 233 ; Inner, 222 ».;
Utter, 222, 233

Bencher (legal), 233

Bishops, 2-4, 6, 7, 14-18, 27, 35,
38, 42-4, 52, 55«., 57, 63, 64,
67»., 69, 70, 72-7, 80-4, 86,
88-90, 95, 107-8, no, 1 13-15,
i26«., 133, 137?;., 187?^., 192,

311

Books shown on brasses, 80, 81,
113, 116, 216, 231, 233, 293 ;
on incised slab, 126K. ; scrolls,
209, 2247/., 228, 229, 231 ; slab
semee of, 168, 228

Brasses, Monumental, see Introduc-
tion, also Flemish and Palimpsest
Analysis of Cortewille brass,
9«.

Artists of, and their signatures,
14-15, 55«., 185 ?z., devices, etc..

Bracket, 20,49, 93' ''°4' ^5°»
160, 181, 247, 250, 254, 256,
265, 294, 296

Chrysom, 23, 25

Colour on, 270, 274 ; enamel
on, 148

Cross, 22, 81, 104, 246;
floriated, lyn.y 20, 21 «., 22, 64,
103, 156, 197, 202, 203, 263

Engravers (provincial) of, 172,
174, 176, 216, 261, 282, 283 ;
error of, 178W.

Extra-mural, 79

Goldsmiths' work on, 15

Modern, 26, 58»., 218, 296;
artist, 26

378

INDICES

Objects (animals, etc.), de-
picted on : butterflies, dragons,
50; peacock feast, 52; shears,
207 ; stag-hunt, 52 ; wodehouses
feasting, 52

Pardon, 64?;.

In private possession, 215, 262
Rectangular shape of, 162,
185, 213, 214, 216, 281, 299
Shroud or skeleton, 23, 25,

I35» HO
Burlington Fine Arts Club Exhibi-
tions, 48 »., I23«., 224»., 311-
12

C

Candles, 5 i

Canons, Ecclesiastical, 1 1 i izn.

Canons, 857/., 86-91, 93, 123,
I26«., 131-4, 139 ; of Windsor,
92-3, 132 ; Augustinian, Austin
or Black, 96-7 ; pety (minor),
93, 109W.

Cardinals, 6^n., S^n., 86, 103/?.,
1 10, 277».

Casement, see Matrix

Chalice, 49, 64«., 68, 99-102, 107,
135-9, 3I2»-

Chamberlain of London, i66w.

Chancellor, Lord, 80 ; of Univer-
sity, 127

Chancery, Court of, 2 24». ; Cur-
sitor in, 235 ; Masters in, 226,
231-2

Choristers, 1257/,

Christ, figure of, 47, 81, 107;

Crucifixion, 311,312; Stigmata,

235 ; Vernicle, 91
Cirographorius (engrosser), 234
Civic dignitaries, 200, 217
Coif, Order of the, 222, 225, 226
Collections, Gough (Gaignieres), 7,

I4«., 28». ; British Museum,

Craven Ord (Douce), I, 33, 49 ;

Huybrechts, 6477.
Commoners, 12577.
Communion, Holy, 107

Consecration of Archbishop Parker,

no, 11377.
Constable of the Tower, 18877.
Constitutions of Cardinal Otho,

10377.

Contracts for Beauchamp tomb, 977.,
303-6 ; for Sandys tomb, Basing-
stoke, 547;,

Copper, alloys, manufacture of, 2 ;
engraving on, discovery of, 16^7.

Council of Constance, 57; of
Milan 5 th, 8777.; of Oxford,
12377.

Counsel, King's, 222

Crants, Virgin, 295 77.

Cross, fylfot, 6777., 83, 14777.;
Keltic, 3; Tau, 128, 139; see
also Costume Index

Crown-keeper, 214; his badge,
21477.

Cullen plate, 9

D

Deacon, 41, 64, 67, 72-3, 107 ;

sub-, 64, 73
Deans, 89, 94, 95, 112 77., 11477.,

115, 123, 12677., 129, 140
Doctor, 122, 12377., 222
Doctors, of Divinity, 8577., 89, 94,

104, 106, 10877., 10977., 111-17,

125, 126-9, 223 ; of Canon Law,

126, 129-30; of Law, 8577., 89,
92, 12577., 12677., 131-2, 184,
223-4; Utriusque Juris, 132-3 ;
of Medicine, 12577., 133; of
Music, 125 77., 142

Draper, 212

E

Easter sepulchres, 193

Effigies, kneeling, 174, 175, 178-
85, 18877., 198, 203, 208, 210,
213-16, 227-9, 234' 235, 246,
263, 267, 268, 274-6, 279, 281,
282, 285-7, 290, 292-4, 297,
299

Sitting, 290

INDICES

379

Standing, on chequered pave-
ment, 184, 214 ; on low circular
pedestals, 289

Male and female, hand in
hand, 161, 168, 174, 204, 248-
50, 2^5«., 256, 258, 265

Hands of, crossed, 46, 49 «.

Heads of, resting on cushions,

50, 51,54, 91, 150, 181, 185,
242, 246, 248,251,252,254-6,

258, 266, 268, 270, 279, 281,
293

Objects at feet of : two animals
addorsed, 52 ; bear, 162 ; bedes-
men, 263 ; dog, 9I«., 148, 151,
159, 163, 167, 168, 169 (Jakke),
171-4, 176, 179, 199, 201-3,
205-8, 228, 239-41, 243, 247-

51, 254, 274; greyhound, 162,
163, 173-6, 180, 182, 281 ; toy-
terrier with bell collar (lap dog),
242, 243W., 245, 247, 248, 250-
3, 252 (Terri), 255, 26o«., 272 ;
gnawing a bone, 205, 247 ; two,
fighting, _ 247 ; dragon, 274 ;
two fighting, 46, 52 ; eagle, 176,
270; fighting, 52; elephant,
180, 266 ; griffin, 174, 180, 304,
305 ; hedgehog, 261 ; leopard,
167, 227 ; lion, 91 134, 148,
149, 159, 163, 167, 169,
171-6, 179, 181, 226, 227, 240,

259, 266; fighting, 52; two
addorsed, 201 n. ;■ mount, ground
sown with flowers, etc., 167, 168,
172, 173, 175, 179, 201, 203,
209, 227, 228, 230 ; sheep, 208 ;
stag, 49 ; unicorn, 169 ; wine-
cask, 203 ; wodehouses (wild
men), 174; woolpack, 201, 204,
205, 207, 208

Of children on brasses, 20, 54,

94> 95 »v 99» io4-7» ^.'^^n.,
ii4»., 132, 175, 185, 186, 201,
204-7, 209»., 211, 214-16, 246,
247, 266, 268, 270, 271, 276,
281, 282, 291-300

Halfor demi, Ijn., 2I«., 24W., General
4o» 55» 63, 7^-2, 83, 92, 94,iioi,
102,104, 117, 127»., 128,132-3,
136-41, 145,150, 197,199,200,
202, 204, 205, 241, 242, 244-7,
262, 263, 287, 297

Sculptured, 2, 67»., 77, 79,
87W., io8«., lion., 112, I32«,
I36«., i49«., i5i-3»., i56«.,
I57»., I58»., 163W., i68w.,
i88w., 189W., 191?/., I92».,
I98«., 204;;., 223W., 227W.,
230«., 232W., 2397/., 2407;.,
242 »., 243 245 K., 248
253W., 258, 280, 316

Enamels, Limoges, 5, 6

Esquires, see Chapters III., IV., V.,
VI.

Exchequer, Court of, 224W., 226;
Chancellor of the, 232; Chief
Baron of, 222, 226-9 ? Barons of,
226-9, 231* 266 ; Clerks of, 234;
Auditor of, 234

F

Fellows of Colleges, 71, 72, loi,

116, 137-41
Flemish brasses, 5, 9«., 10, 14, 16-

18, 20, 25-8, 33,42-56,63,70,

72, 75»-» 77-9. 83, 84, 91, 95,
101, 129, 154, 161, 197-9,201,
202, 205, 212, 243, 244W., 247,
260W., 276, 277, 297, 299;
palimpsests, I3«., 38, 44-6, 51,
56, 199, 202

Flowers, 240, 293

Frankelein, 70, 201

French workmanship, brasses show-
ing» 56-7, 153, 242

G

Garlands, Funeral, 295 w.
Garter, brasses of Knights of the,

167, 168, 174, 176, 180, 1 86-8 ;

stall plates, i88w. ; Chancellor

of the, i88w.

38o

INDICES

ERAL Gens de robe, 221

Glass, mosaic, 17; red cassock
depicted in, 85; St. Jerome
depicted in, I09«, ; Serjeant-at-
law depicted in, 2307;.; lady-
wearing heraldic tabard depicted
in, 2867?,

Gueux, League of the, 44

H

Heart, inscribed, 211, 227, 251,

259
Heraldry

Coats blazoned: —

Albemarle (de Fortibus), I47«,

Aldeburgh, 160

Bacon, 151 ; of Redgrave, i^m.

Beauchamp, 155, 252

Beaumont, 83/;.

Brocas, 250

Bures, 149

Camoys, 1877;.

Chelvey, 259

Creke, 153

Daubeney, i6()n.

D'Aubernoun, 148

Delamere, 48

Denmark, 58

Des Essarts, i66«,

Dixton, 173W.

Edward the Confessor, i68«.

Edward III., 155

Ermyn, 90

Feld, 172-3

Ferrers, 252

Fitz Ralph, 151

Foxley, 250

Fulburne, 90

Fynderne, 167, 259

Geslingthorpe (Calthorpe),248».

GifFard, 156

Grey de Ruthin, 155, 316
Harsick, 161
Hastings, 154
Horton, 50

Kent, Holland, Earl of, 270 n.

Kyngeston, 259
Lippe, 74 ».
Mauleverere, 162
Mayo, 81-2
Molyneux, 182
Northwode, 154
Paderborn, See of, 74 «.
Parsons, 3 1 2

Plantagenet, Henry, Earl of

Lancaster, 1 55
Powys, Charlton, Lord, 270«.
Richard IL, 168 n.
Rivers (Redvers), Earl of Devon,

i47«.
Russell, 82

St. Alban's Abbey, 47

St. Amand, 155

Say, 172

Setvans, 149

Stafford, 155

Stapleton, 172

Trumpington, 148

Uvedale, 257

Valence, 155

Vipont (Veteripont), 172

Wantele, 166 n.

Coats mentioned: —
Arundel, 90??.
Bagot, 162
Baynard, 276

Beauchamp, 907;., 162, 311-12

Bodiham, 160

Bohun de, 3 1 2

Braunche, 53

Bray, 285

Bulowe, de, 83

Canterbury, See of, 78

Cheyny, 273

Clare, 3 1 2

Clifford, 2407;.

Courtenay, 279

Covert, 286

Delamere, 53

England, 1877/., 311

Fitz Walter, 3 1 2

France, 187W.

INDICES

381

Gage, 188?/.
Gorynge, 286
Grandisson, 3 1 1
Grey of Wilton, 188?/.
Hevenyngham, 275
Howard, iSyn., 280
Ipswich, town of, 5 5
Laon, Chapter of, 86
Legh, 83

Lincoln, See of, 82
Lippe, 83
Ludlowe, 276
Merchant Adventurers, 55
Michelgrove, 279
Montacute, 312
Monthermer, 312
Nevill, 312
Newburgh, 312
Northumberland, i88«.
Oxford, see Vere
Plantagenet, 312
Salisbury, See of, 84
Salters' Company, 55
Scrope, 281
Shelley, 279
Solms, 311
Stafford, 312
Thornton, 54.
Tiptoft, 281
Topclyff, 53
Vere, de, 312
Verney, 285

Warwick, see Beauchamp, Nevill

Badges, Crests, Devices — see
Costume (Collars, Garter) : —

Aileward (garb), 90

Beauchamp (bear, 304, 305, 3 1 1 ;
griffin, 31 1 ; staff ragule, 162)

Berkeley (mermaid), 162

Bohun, de (swan), 312

Bourchier (eagle), 270

Burghersh (lion), 266

Catherine of Aragon, 311

Foxley (fox), 250

Henry VIII., 311

Setvans (motto), I49».

Stafford (knot), 312 Gi
Tudor, 1 14

See also Effigies, Objects at feet of

Heralds, Kings of Arms, brasses of,

l66w. ; Visitation, 166?;.
Herse, 303, 304
Hospes of Norwich, 218
Host, sec Wafer
Hostiarius, 647/.

Household, Royal, Master of, 1 80 ;
Officers of, 179; of Cardinal
Wolsey, Comptroller, 182

Hunter, brass of a, 205

I

Indent, see Matrix
Injunctions of Queen Elizabeth,
102 K.

Inns of Court, Grey's, 233, 234;
Lincoln's, 233 ; Staple (Prynsi-
pall of), 235 ; Temple, Inner,
233 ; Middle, 225 w.

Inscriptions, 16, 17, 20, 21,^23,

25, 30, 3i» 4°> 45» 47» 49» 52»
54-8, 6\n., 81, 84, 96-8, 115-
17, izjn., 129, 131, 133-6, 139,
140, 148-50, 151W., 153, i66w.,
i8o«., 197, 201, 211, 230-5,
240, 259, 263, 265

J

Judges, 200, 221-3, 225-30
Justice of North Wales, 228

K

Kings, 58

King's Bench, Court of, 222,
2 24». ; Chief Justice of, 223 w.,
226ff., 227; Justice of, 227-9,
259, 267; Clerk of the Crown
in, 234

Knights, see Chapters III., IV., V.,
VI.

382

INDICES

L

Latten, 2, 9, 29
Lector, 64
Lecturer (legal), 233
Licentiati, 127; in decretis, iiSn.,
134

M

Manuscripts, 4, 5W., 52W., 68,
69W., 75, 83«., 84W., 95«., io3«.,
109, 124, \z6n., izjn., i^6n.,
igyti., 2o6«., 224«., 239«.,
247 258 «.

Mar bier, 205

Mary, B.V., 51; and Child, 84,
107; Annunciation, 105; As-
sumption, 311 ; Pieta, 81

Masters of Arts, 94, 95, 1 00-2, 1 04,
105, 115-17, 124, 135-8,

224

Master of Clare Hall, 1 3 1
Master of Queens' College, Cambs.,
116

Matrix, II, i7«., 18, 20, 27, 28,
42?/., 80, 81, 96, i04«., I27«.,
i3i«., 150, 156, 187,229,249?/.,
zyzn., 296

Mayors, 1097/., 217, 218

Mercer, zijn.

Merchants' Marks, 53, 55,205,207
Missal, 64»., 1 01
Monks, 65, 96-7, 99«.
Monuments, Queen Elizabeth's

Proclamation against breaking or

defacing, 308-10
Mootmen (legal), 222 «.
Mosaics, Ravenna, 78

N

Notary, 209, 211, 235
Nuns, 65, 99, 247

O

Orders, Holy, 22 1
Ostiarius, 64

P

Page of Honour, 180

Paintings, 48 w., 6^n., d-jn., 105 w.,

224«., 289«.

Palimpsest brasses, 13K., 15, 21,
27«., 29, 35, 37-42, 64«., 81,

95> 97> 99» i38«., 145
187, i88«., 193, 233, 240, 259,
261, 263, 264, 281, 296-7;
Flemish, 44-6

Paten, 49

Pilgrim, 204 w.

Pipe subthesaurarius, 231 ; Comp-
troller of the great roll of the,
234

Pleas, Common, Court of, 222,
224«., 234; Chief Justice of,

226-9 ; Justice of, 227-9 ;

"Secundarie" of, 227 ; Attorney

of, 235 ; prothonotary of, 234
Popes, 64«., 68, 73, 75, 78
President of Magdalen College,

Oxon., 82, 92, 134, 135
Priests, see Chapters I. and IL, 4,

7, 10, 1 1 «., 13, 21 22, 26,

39-43» 49» 20S> 231, 264,
3i2»., 316

Priors, 65, 79, 96, I27»,

Prioress, 65, 98, 263

Privy Council, 309

Provost of Eton, 92 ; Vice-, of
Eton, 128; of King's College,
Cambs., 129; of Oriel College,
Oxon., 1277/,; of Queen's Col-
lege, Oxon., 117, 128 ; of Tat-
tershall, 93, 130, 134

Pulpit represented on brass, 1 17

Puritans, 1 1 2 «.

R

Readers (legal), 222 «., 233
Rebus, maple leaves, 90 ; peascods,
201 ; Whychurch, 312; wood-
howses, 100
Recorder of London, 228 ; of Nor-
wich, 218

INDICES

383

Reformation, 25, 82, I93«.
Regulas generales of the Judges, 222
Renaissance, 19, 24, 25
Restoration, 291
Resurrection, 193
Roses, Wars of the, 169

S

Saints, Alban, 47
Cornelius, 56
Cuthbert, 68, 69 ».
Eligius, 52
Ethelbert, 18, 63 «.
Ethelred, 17, 58
Faith, 203, 263
George, 155
Gregory, 6\n., 75, loi
James, 84

Jerome, 647/., logw.
John Baptist, 104
Katherine, 94
Lawrence, 72«., 84».
Martin, 94 ».
Nicholas, 52
Oswyn, 47
Paul, 47, 84, 104
Peter, 47, Sjn., 84, 104
Quentin, 72 w., 84
Sextus, Pope, 68
Stephen, 84 «.

Thomas (a Becket) of Canter-
bury), 69«., 79

Trond, 84

Zenobio, 67 w.
Scholars of Divinity, 101,135,138;

foundation, 125 w.
Schoolboys, 141-2
Seal, the Great, 80
Seneschallus domus, 64 «.
Serjeants-at-arms, 179, 192
Serjeants-at-law, 221-31 ; King's,

222

Sheriff of London, 205
Shield Bearer, 161
Sisters of Charity of St. Vincent de
Paul, 272 «.

Slabs, Incised, 3-7, I4«., 86;;., 87«., General
97«., 100, 126;;., 158;;., 2o6».,
26o».

Soul, conventional treatment of, 48,

Squire of the Body to Richard IIL,
274

Stalls, carved woodwork of choir,

258«.
Standard Bearer, 168
Staple of Calais, Mayor of, 201 ;

Merchant of, 211
Star Chamber, Court of, 309, 310
Statutes, Oxford Laudian, I25».
Steward, Chief, of Glastonbury

Abbey, 230-1
Student of Civil Law, 141
Suit of Bishop Wyvill v. Earl of

Salisbury, 192-3
Supremacy, Oath of, loyn., 114
Symbols, evangelistic, 47, 50, 52,

54, 57, 84«.

T

Tailor, 207
Tapestry, Bayeux, 68
Thurible, 50, 5 i
Tiles, encaustic, 198 «.
Treasurer, Lord High, of England,
186

Trinity, emblem of the, 91
U

Undergraduate, 141
Uniformity, Act of, 108

V

VowEssES, 98, 265, 294 ; Order of,
98, 247

W

Wafer, 99-102, 107, 135, 137-9,
312

Warden of Merton College, 126,
128; of New College, 80, 89,

384

INDICES

I24» I3S» 138; of Winchester,
89, 94, 1 14 ; of Greatham Hos-
pital, I27«.

Wardes and Liveries, Court of,
Auditor of, 234

Weepers, 50 ; contract for, 304,
305

Widows, 245-7, 264-7, 293-4;

benediction of, 247 ».
Wills cited : —

Dene, Archbishop Henry, Son,

Denny, Thomas, 1 1-12

Elyngbrigge, Thomas, 64 «.

Fastolff, Katherine, 1 1

Fitzherbert, Sir Anthony, 228 w,

Fitz James, Isabella, 275 w., 276 ».

FitzWilliam, William, 8».

Foxle, Sir John de, z^on.

Harsnett, Archbishop Samuel,

30, 55»., 76W.
Martyn, Elizabeth, 98 «.
Salisbury, Thomas de Montacute,

Earl of, 1 1 n.
St. Quintin, Sir John de, 1 1
Warwick, Richard Beauchamp,
Earl of, 303
Wine merchant, 203
Wool merchant (woolman), 97?.;

201, 204, 205, 207, 208, 253
Wool trade, 9?/., 53

Y

Yeoman of the Crown, 286 ; of the
Guard (with badge of Rose and
Crown), 2i4n.

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